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GARDENING FOR PROFIT; 

A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION 
OF THE 

MARKET AND FAMILY GARDEN. 

ENTIRELY NEW AND G-RBATLY ENLARGED. 

BY 

PETER HENDERSON, 

JERSEY CITY HEIGHTS, K. J, 

ILLUSTEATED WITH NUMEEOUS HEW ENGEAVDJaS. 




r. 



NEW YORK: 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 
1891, 






Entered, according io Act of Congress, in the year 1886, by the 

O. JUDD CO., 

In the Ofice of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, 



^T tranafoc 

JUL 98 i'M 



i.1 y 









v>» 



CONTENTS. 



-♦o«- 



Introduction vii 

Preface to Second Edition x 

Preface to Thii'd Edition xi 

Chapter I. 
The Men Fitted for the Business of Gardening 13 

Chapter II. 
The Amount of Capital Required and Working Force per Acre 17 

Chapter III. 
Profits of Mai'ket Gardening 20 

Chapter IV. 
Location, Situation and Laying Out 23 

Chapter V. 
Soil, Drainage and Preparation 25 

Chapter VI. 
Manures 33 

Chapter VII. 
The Use and Management of Cold Frames 44 

Chapter VIII. 
Formation and Management of Hot-Beds..- 56 

Chapter IX. 
Forcing-Pits for Greenhouses 63 

Chapter X. 
Wide Greenhouses for Forcing Vegetable Crops 73 

Chapter XI. 
Seeds and Seed Raising 89 



(in) 



lY • CONTENTS. 

Chapter XII. 
The Use of the Feet in Sowing and Planting 96 

Chapter XIII. 
How, When and Where to Sow Seeds 103 

Chapter XIV. 
Transplanting - - -- 114 

Chapter XV. 

Vegetables — Their Y arieties and Cultivation 117 

Chapter XVI. 

When to Sow and Plant in the Southern States 311 

Chapter XVII. 

Packing Vegetables for Shipping .-. 816 

Chapter XVIII. 
Preservation of Vegetables in Winter. 817 

Chapter XIX. 
Insects - - 319 

Chapter XX. 
Culture of Small Fruits 325 

Chapter XXI. 

Implements - - - 344 

Monthly Calendar 359 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Asparagus Beetle 128 

Aspaia^^s, Manner of Planting 123 

Drains, Board 31 

Flat Stone-- 30 

Rubble -- -.- 30 

Tile, Horseshoe 29 

Forcing-pits, Heated by Flue. 71 
Forcing-pits, Heated by Water 

Pipes -- - 64 

Greenhouse Heated by Flue - . 86 

End Section 87 

Greenhouse for Forcing Vege- 
tables --- 73 

Cross Section 74 

Glazing, Improved Method of 75 

IMPLEMENTS. 

Asparagus Buncher 355 

Asparagus Knife 355 

Dibber- 356 

Drill, Wheel-hoe, Cultivator 

and Plow Combined- - - 354 

Fork, Digging 346 

Garden Line Reel - 355 

Harrow, Acme - 348 

Disc 349 

Garden 346 

Triangular Adjustable 347 

Hoe and Cultivator, Horse, 

Planet Jr -.-. 357 

Double-wheel 354 

Prong 350 

Scuffle 350 

Horseradish Grater 356 

Marker, Double 352 

Rapp's Adjustable 352 

Plow, Miner's Subsoil 345 

Roland Chilled 344 

Skeleton 347 

Slip Share for 345 

Y 



Rake, Steel 350 

Roller, Garden 351 

Spade, Ames First Quality 346 

Pump, Force, Douglas 66 

Straw-mat, Making-a. 61 

SMALL FRUITS. 

BlackbeiTy, Kittatinny - - 335 

Wilson 335 

Gooseberry, Houghton's Seed- 
ling 340 

Grape, Niagara 341 

Raspberry, Cuthbert 337 

Gregg -- 338 

Hansen -. 338 

Strawberry, Jersey Red.-- 331 

Sharpless - 332 

The Jewel- 333 

The Henderson 329 

VEGETABLES, VARIETIES OF : 

Artichoke, Green Globe 129 

Jerusalem 130 

Bean, Earliest Red Valentine - 133 

Golden Wax 135 

Lima, Jersey Extra Early- 137 

Beet, Egyptian Turnip 140 

Beet - --. 140 

Eclipse - -. 140 

Long Smooth Blood 141 

Borecole, German Greens 143 

Brussels Sprouts -- 146 

Cabbage, American Di*umhead 

Savoy - 167 

Early Jersey Wakefield--. 162 
Henderson's Early Sum- 
mer 164 

Late Flat Dutch 166 

Carrot, Danver's 172 

Long Red Stump-rooted-. 172 
Orange Improved 172 



VI 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Cauliflower,HencTerson's Early 
Snowball 168 

Celery after Handling 177 

Earthed up 178 

Stored for Winter 181 

Henderson's G olden Dwarf 18*3 
Henderson's Half Dwarf.. 188 
White Plume 186 

Celeriae -... 188 

Dwarf Apple-shaped 190 

Corn, Sweet, Marblehead 198 

Minnesota 198 

Stowell's Evergreen 198 

Cucumber, Early Russian 202 

Gherkin 202 

Improved White Spine . . . 202 

Egg Plant, Black Pekin 205 

New York Improved 205 

Endive, Green Curled 207 

Horseradish 211 

Set 209 

Kohlrabi 212 

Leek, Musselburg 214 

Lettuce, Black Seeded Simpson 220 

Early Curled Simpson 219 

New York 222 

Paris White Cos 222 

Salamander 221 

Melon, Musk, Baltimore 229 

Golden Netted Gem.-L... 228 

Hackensack 228 

Montreal Market ._. 229 

Melon, Water, Icing 232 

Scaly Bark 232 

Striped Gypsy 231 

Mushrooms 235 

Onion, Extra Eaiiy Flat Bed 251 



Onion, Giant Rocca 253 

Large Red Wethersfield . . 251 
Southport Large Yellow 

Globe 252 

White Portugal 253 

White Tripoli 254 

Yellow Globe Danvers 252 

Parsley, Emerald 256 

Pea, American Wonder 262 

First of All 260 

Stratagem 263 

Potato, Clark's No. 1 269 

Empire State... 268 

Perfect Peachblow 270 

Radish, Beckert's Chartier 276 

Early Round Dark Red... 277 

French Breakfast .- 277 

Long Scarlet Short-top . . . 275 

White-topped Turnip 277 

Yellow Summer Turnip . . 277 

Rhubarb, St. Martin's 281 

Salsify 282 

Sea Kale 284 

Spinach, Long Standing 289 

Norfolk Savoy-leaved 288 

Thick-leaved 289 

Squash, Essex Hybrid 293 

Hubbard 294 

White Bush Scalloped 293 

Tomato, Mikado 302 

Perfection 303 

Turnip, Extra Early Milan ... 305 
Purple-top White Globe.. 306 
Ruta Baga, Improved 
American Purple-top... 307 

White Egg 305 

Wagon, Market 353 



INTRODUCTION. 



I hope it is no egotism to state that in both the Floral 
and Vegetable departments of Horticulture, in which I 
have been engaged for the past eighteen years, I have 
been entirely successful. Now, we know that success 
only is the test of good generalship, and it follows that, 
having been successful, I have thus earned my title to 
merit. From this stanapoint, I claim che right to at- 
tempt the instruction of the student of horticulture in 
the tactics of that field. 

We have very few works, either agricultural or horti- 
cultural, by Americau authors, whose writers are prac- 
tical men, and fewer still of these who are men that have 
'^ risen from the ranks. " A considerable number of such 
writers are ex-editors, lawyers, mechanics, etc., men of 
means and education, who, ens^ao-ins: in the business as a 
pastime, in a year or two generously conclude to give the 
public the benefit of their experience. 

The practical farmer or gardener readily detects the 
ring of this spurious metal, and excusably looks upon 
all such instructors with contempt. To this cause, per- 
haps more than any other, may be attributed the wide- 
spread prejudice against book-farming and book-garden- 
ing, by which thousands shut themselves off from infor- 
mation, the possession of which might save years of useleis 
toil and privation. 



VIII GARDEXIXQ FOli PROFIT. 

I have some pride, under present circumstances in say- 
ing that I liave had a worlciiig experience in all depart- 
ments of gardening, from my earliest boyhood, and even 
to-day am far more at home in its manual operations than 
its literature, and have only been induced to write the 
following pages at the repeated solicitations of friends 
and correspondents, to whose inquiries, relative to com- 
mercial gardening, my time will no longer allow me to 
reply individually. I have endeavored, in this work, 
to be as concise and clear as possible, avoiding all abstruse 
or theoretical questions, which too often serve only to 
confuse and dishearten the man who seeks only for the 
instruction that shall enable him to practice. 

Although the directions given are mainly for the mar- 
ket garden, or for operations on a large scale, yet the 
amateur or private gardener will find no difficulty in 
modifying them to suit the smallest requirements. The 
commercial gardener, from the keen competition ever 
going on in the vicinity of large cities, is, in his opera- 
tions, taxed to his utmost ingenuity to get at the most 
expeditious and economical methods to produce the finest 
crops — methods that we believe to be superior to those 
in general use in private gardens, and which may, with 
profit, be followed. 

Our estimates of labor, I trust, will not be overlooked ; 
for I know it is no uncommon thing for gentlemen to 
expect 'their gardeners to do impossibilities in this way. 
The private garden cannot be properly cropped and cared 
for with less labor than can our market gardens, and 
these, we know, require nearly the labor of one man to 
an acre, and that, too, with every labor-saving arrange- 



TXTliODLCTION^. IX 

ment in practice. Wlien the care of greenhouses, or 
graperies, is in addition to this, extra labor must be given 
accordingly, or something must suffer. 

The greatest difficulty that has presented itself to me 
in giving the directions for operations, has been the dates ; 
in a country having such an area and diversity of temper- 
ature as ours, directions could not well be given for the 
extremes, so as the best thing to be done under the cir- 
cumstances, I have taken the latitude of New York as a 
basis, and my readers must modify my instructions to 
suit their locality. The number of varieties of each veg- 
etable described here is very small in comparison with 
those that are known, or the seeds of which are offered 
for sale. I have given only such as I have found most 
serviceable. Those who wish for a more extended list ai-e 
referred to the seed catalogues. 

Jersey City HeightSt JV. «/., December 1st, 1866. 



PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 

It is now seven years since I wrote ^' Gardening for 
Profit/' and, although it has met w4th a reception that 
has been exceedingly flattering, I have ever since felt that 
it was too hurriedly done, and far from complete. The 
suggestions and queries made to me by some of the many 
thousands of its readers, have been the means of develop- 
ing many new ideas and plans for better cultivation, which 
I liave the pleasure to embody in this edition, A new 
edition of a work of this kind becomes necessary every 
few years, to enable it to keep pace with the improvement 
in varieties, as well as in modes of culture. In the pres- 
ent edition, the part of the work treating of varieties has 
been carefully revised, and we believe the kinds described 
to be, as a whole, the best in their respective classes this 
day in use, either for private or commercial purposes. It 
is gratifying to know, by letters from every section of the 
country, that the publication of this work has been the 
means of helping to success thousands of inexperienced 
cultivators of the soil, of both classes — those " Gardening 
for Pleasure," as well as those " Gardenins: for Profit." 
It is true that some that have been induced to enofao-e in 
the business by reading my book have failed. Such must 
ever be the case — less or more — in every business ; but I 
have gocd reason to believe that the percentage of fail- 
ures in gardening is less than that in almost any other 

business. 

Peter Henderson. 
Jersey City Heights, N. J., 

January, 1874.. 

(X) 



PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION". 

It is twenty years since '"Gardening for Profit "was 
first written, and twelve years since the second edition 
was issued. The lapse of a dozen years is too long between 
editions of a work of this character, for new methods of 
culture, new and improved varieties of vegetables and 
fruits are yearly coming into use, but my life has been 
more than an ordinarily busy one, and I have never been 
able, until now, to find sufficient time to get out another 
edition as full and complete as the necessities of the 
widely extending nature of the business demands. The 
present edition, it will be seen, has a much wider scope 
than either of the former editions, embracing as it docs 
not only the forcing under glass of some important fruits 
and vegetables not before touched upon, but also detail- 
ing the methods of culture of the leading small fruits, 
which properly come under the head of " Gardening for 
Profit." 

At the present writing, the business of gardening in 
such large cities as New York, Philadelphia, Boston or 
Chicago, is by no means so profitable as formerly, mainly 
owing to the vast competition from the Southern States, 
but that it is yet far more profitable than farm operations 
for the capital and labor employed — in almost every sec- 
tion of the country — cannot be doubted. There are 
thousands of farmers adjacent to the smaller towns, vil- 
lageSj hotels, watering places, and summer boarding- 
houses, where the want at the table of fresh vegetables 
and fruits is most conspicuous. In many such places it 
is unquestionable that if the farmer would devote a few 

(XI) 



XII GAKDENIXG FOR PROFIT. 

acres to the cultivation of fruits or vegetables, or both, 
the chances are more than equal that he would find it to 
be more profitable than ten times the amount of land 
cultivated in the ordinary farm crops. I have had letters 
from thousands of men, who, following the instructions 
of the former editions of '^ Gardening for Profit," have 
thanked me for inducing them to start in this safe and 

profitable business. 

Peter Henderson. 
Jersey City Heights, N. J. , 

December 15th, 1886, 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE MEN FITTED FOR THE BUSINESS OF 
GARDENING. 

Although we shall here show the business of gar- 
dening to be a profitable one, let no man deceive 
himself by supposing that these profits are attainable 
without steady personal application. 

Having been long known as extensively engaged in 
the business, I am applied to by scores every season, 
asking how they can make their lands available for 
garden purposes. The majority of these are cit}^ mer- 
chants who, for investment or in anticipation of a ru- 
ral retreat in the autumn of their days, have pur- 
chased a country place, and in the meantime they 
wish to make it pay. They have read or heard that 
market gardening is profitable, and they think it an 
easy matter to hire a gardener to work the place 
while they attend their own mercantile duties as be- 
fore. They are usually gentlemen of horticultural 
tendencies, read all the magazines and books on the 
subject, and from the knowledge thus obtained, plume 
themselves with the conceit that they are able to guide 
the machine. 
(13) 



14 GARDENI2^G FOE PROFIT. 

Many hundreds from our large cities delude them- 
selves in this way every season in diiferent depart- 
ments of horticulture — perhaps more in the culture of 
fruits than of vegetables. I have no doubt that thou- 
sands of acres are annually planted, that in three years 
afterwards are abandoned, and the golden dreams of 
these sanguine gentlemen forever dissipated. Altliough 
ihe workers of the soil will not, as a class, compare 
in intelligence with the mercantile men of the cities, it 
is a mistake to suppose that this want of education 
or intelligence is much of a drawback when it comes 
to cultivating strawberries or cabbages. True, the un- 
tutored mind does not so readily comprehend theo- 
retical or scientific knowledge, but for that very rea- 
son it becomes more thoroughly practical, and I must 
say that, as far as my experience has gone (without 
being thought for a moment to derogate against the 
utility of a true scientific knowledge in all matters 
pertainmg to the soil), that any common laborer with 
ordinary sagacity and twelve months' working in a 
garden would have a far better chance of success, 
other things being equal, than another without the 
practice, even if he had all the writings, from Lie- 
big's down, at his fingers' ends. Not that a life-long 
practice is absolutely necessary to success, for I can 
see from where I write the homes of at least half a 
dozen men, all now well to do in the world, not one 
of whom had any knowledge of gardening, either prac- 
tical or theoretical, when they started the business, 
but they were all active worJdng men, *^ actual set- 
tlere/' and depended alone on their own heads and 
hands* for success, and not on the doubtful judgment 
and industry of a hired gardener, who had no further 
interest in the work than his montlily salary. 

"D. H." writes me thus: '^1 am a book-keeper 
with a salary from which I can save but little ; but 



MEN FITTED FOE THE BUSINESS. 15 

by rigid ecouomy during a series of years, I have 
scraped together $2,000. My health is only ordinary. 
With that capital can I succeed as a market gardener 
by hiring an experienced gardener ? ■' This inquiry 
is a type of hundreds I now receive annually, and 
to which may be given this general reply : From the 
nature of the question, no very definite answer can 
be given, though I would say that the chances are 
two to one against success. It is a well-known fact 
that the chances of success in mercantile business are 
even far less than this. *'D. H."' may' be a capi- 
tal book-keeper, yet it is doubtful if he has the neces- 
sary endurance to stand the w^ear on the constitution 
that market gardening involves. If he concludes to 
start at gardening, he is more likely than not to se- 
lect a soil entirely unsuited to the purpose. In most 
sectio:is of the country tliere are fewer soils suitable for 
the cultivation of vegetables than there are those tliat 
are unsuitable. Again, he is an educated man, and 
this very fact w^ould be rather against him than oth- 
erwise, as it would naturally incline him to refined 
society and associations, in Avhich, I am sorry to say, 
the beginner in market gardening cannot afford to 
indulge. The hiring of an '*' experienced gardener'' 
would take all the cream off of the profits. Experi- 
enced market gardeners are exceedingly scarce. Our 
laborers in the market gardens are generally an ig- 
norant class with very little ambition, and not one in 
a hundred of them is fit to manage. Though em- 
ploying seventy hands myself, I have often been sadly 
at a loss to select from them a suitable man as fore- 
man, though many of them had been with me for 
years. When one shows the necessary ability, his ser- 
vices are much sought after, and he readily com- 
mands 8500 or $600 a year and board. Clerks, book- 
keepers, and city-bred men generally are not the ones 



16 GFARDEKIN^G FOR PROFIT. 

likely to be successful as workers of tlie soil. Few 
of them have any conception of the labor required 
to be done to insure success. I started business in 
Jersey City, at the age of twenty- three, with a cap- 
ital of $500, which it had taken me three years to 
make as a working gardener. For the first five years 
that I was in business, I can safely say that we worked, 
on an average, sixteen hours a day, winter and sum- 
mer, with scarcely a day for recreation. Now, the 
majority of clerks, book-keepers or salesmen do not 
work much more than half that time, and few of 
them could endure this lengthened strain in a sum- 
mer's sun, and without this endurance success is out 
of the question ; for all beginners to-day must do as 
I did, until they get their heads above water, or else, 
such is the competition, they must go to the wall in 
the business. I therefore caution all such who are 
not in robust health to avoid either farming or gar- 
dening if their 7iecessities require tlieni to make a liv- 
ing thereby. That tlie work of the gardener is con- 
ducive to health, when that has not been imi^aired, 
there is no question ; but the long hours of labor and 
the exposure necessary to success, must tell against a 
feeble constitution. 

The business of market gardening, though pleasant, 
healthful, and profitable, is a laborious one, from which 
any one not accustomed to manual labor would quickly 
shrink. The labor is not what may be termed heavy, 
but the hours are long — not less than an average of 
twelve hours a day, winter and summer. No one 
should begin it after passing the meridian of life ; 
neither is it fitted for men of weak or feeble physi- 
cal organization, for it is emphatically a business in 
which one has to rough it. In summer planting, 
when it is of the utmost importance to get the plants 
in while it rams, we repeatedly work for hours in 



AMOUITT OF CAPITAL. — WORKING FOECE. 17 

drencliinsr rains, and woe be to the *'boss" or fore- 
man who would superintend the operation under the 
protection of an umbrella. He must take his chances 
with tlie rank and file, or his prestige as a com- 
mander is gone. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED AND WORKING 
FORCE PER ACRE. 

The small amount of capital required to begin farming 
operations, creates great misconception of what is neces- 
sary for commercial gardening ; for, judging from the 
small number of acres wanted for commencing a garden, 
many suppose that a few hundred dollars is all sufficient 
for a market gardener. For want of informacion on this 
subject, hundreds have failed, after years of toil and pri- 
vation. At present prices (1886), no one would be safe 
to start the business of vegetable market gardening, in 
the manner it is carried on in the neighborhood of New 
York, with a capital of less than $300 per acre, for any- 
thing less than ten acres ; if on a larger scale, it might 
not require quite so much. The first season rarely pays 
more than current expenses, and the capital of 1300 per 
acre is all absorbed in horses, wagons, glass, manures, 
etc. If the capital be insufficient to procure these prop- 
erly, the chance of success is correspondingly diminished. 

I can call to mind at least a dozen cases that have oc- 
curred in my immediate neighborhood within the last ten 
years, where steady, industrious men have utterly failed, 
and lost every dollar they possessed, merely by attempt- 
ing the business with insufficient capital. A few years 
ago a man called upon me and stated that he was about 



18 GARDENIKG FOR PROFIT. 

to become my neighbor ; that he had leased a place of 
twenty acres alongside of mine for ten years, for $600 per 
year, for the purpose of growing vegetables, and asked 
me what I thought of his bargain. I replied that the 
place was cheap enough, only I was afraid he had got too 
much land for that purpose if he attempted the working 
of it all. 1 further asked him what amount of capital he 
had, and he told me that he had about 11,000. I said 
that I was sorry to discourage him, but that it was better 
for him to know that the amount was entirely inadequate 
to begin with, and that there was not one chance in fifty 
that he would succeed, and that it would be better, even 
then, to relinquish the attempt ; but he had paid $150 for 
a quarter's rent in advance, and could not be persuaded 
from making the attempt. The result was as I expected ; 
he began operations in March, his little capital was almost 
swallowed wp in the first two months, and the few crops 
he had put in were so inferior that they were hardly 
worth sending to market. Without money to pay for 
help, his place got enveloped in weeds, and by Septem- 
ber of the same year he abandoned the undertaking. 

Had the same amount of capital and the same energy 
been expended on three or four acres, there is hardly a 
doubt that success would have followed. Those who wish 
to live by gardening, cannot be too often told the danger 
of spreading over too large an area, more particularly in 
starting. With a small capital, two or three acres may 
be profitably w^orked ; while if ten or twelve were at- 
tempted with the same amount, it would most likely re- 
sult in failure. Many would suppose that if three acres 
could be leased for $100 per year, that twenty acres would 
be cheaper at $500 ; nothing can be more erroneous, un- 
less the enterprise be backed up with the necessary capi- 
tal — $300 per acre. For be it known, that the rental or 
interest on the ground used for gardening operations is 
usually only about ten per cent, of the woiking expenses, 



AMOUNT OF CAPITAL. — WORKING FORCE. 19 

SO that an apparently cheap rent, or cheap purchase, does 
not very materially affect the result. It is very different 
from farming' operations, where often the rent or interest 
oil purchase money amounts to nearly half the expenses. 
The number of men employed throughout the year on 
a market garden of ten acres, within three miles of mar- 
ket, planted in close crop, averages seven ; this number is 
varied in proportion, somewhat, according to the quantity 
of glass in use. I have generally employed more than 
that — ^Lilly a man to an acre — but that was in consequence 
of having in use more than the ordinary proportion of 
sashes. This may seem to many an unnecessary force 
for such a small area, but all our experience proves that 
any attempt to work with less will be unprofitable. What 
with the large quantity of manure indispensable, seventy- 
five tons per acre; the close planting of the crops, so 
that every foot will tell ; the immense handling prepara- 
tory for market, to be done on a double crop eacli season, 
one marketed in mid-summer, another in fall and winter, 
a largo and continued amount of labor is required. On 
lands within a short distance of market — say two miles — 
two horses are sufficient ; but when double that distance, 
three are necessary. When three animals are required it 
is most profitable to use a team of mules to do the plow- 
ing and heavy hauling of manure, etc., and do the mar- 
keting by a strong, active horse. Every operation in 
cultivating the ground is done by horse labor whenever 
practicable to do so ; but it mugt be remembered that 
the crops of a garden are very different from those of a 
farm ; the land is m most cases (particularly for the fiist 
crops) planted so close that nothing will do to w^ork with 
but the hoe or hand cultivator (See Implements). 



20 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

CHAPTER III. 
PROFITS OF MARKET GARDENING. 

This is rather a difficult if not a delicate matter 
to touch, as the profits are so large in some instances 
as almost to exceed belief, and so trifling under other 
conditions as to be hardly worth naming. These lat- 
ter conditions, however, are generally where men have 
started on unsuitable soils, too far from market, or 
without money enough to have ever got thoroughly 
under way. But as the object of this work is to en- 
deavor to show how the business can be made a profit- 
able one, I will endeavor to approximate to our ai'- 
erage profits per acre. As a rule it may be premised 
that for every additi3nal acre over ten, the profits 
per acre will to some extent diminish, from the fact 
that a larger area cannot be so thoroughly worked 
as a smaller one ; besides, there will often be a loss 
in price by having to crowd larger quantities of pro- 
duce into market and to leave it in the liands of in- 
experienced salesmen. The majority of our products 
are quickly perishable and must be sold when ready. 

The average profits for the past ten years on all well 
cultivated market gardens in this vicinity have only been 
about $200 per acre. For the five years from 18G1 to 18CG 
they were perhaps twice that amount ; but those were 
years of ^Mvar prices," such as we will be well con- 
tent never to see again. These profits are for the 
products of the open gardens only, not of the frames 
or forcing-pits, which are alluded to elsewhere. These 
amounts are for the neighborhood of New York, and, 
I think, from the vast competition in business, are now 
a low average for the majority of -towns and cities 
throughout the country. Certain it is that from our 



PROFITS OF MARKET GARDE2^I>fG. VI 

lands, even at a value of from $1,000 to $5,000 per 
acre, we can (and do) profitably grow and supply the 
majority of towns within fifty miles around New York 
with fresh vegetables. In these cases, no doubt, the 
consumer pays full double the price that the raiser 
receives, for they generally pass through the hands 
of two classes of '^middlemen" before they reach the 
consumer, besides which, there are extra charges for 
packing, shipping and freight. Thus the consumer 
in a country town, where land often is not 'as much 
in value per acre as it is here per lot, pays twice 
the value for his partially stale vegetables or fruits, 
which he receives rarely sooner than twenty-four hours 
after they are gathered. 

In most of such towns market gardening, carried 
on after our manner, wonld nnquestionably be highly 
remunerative ; for if these articles were offered to the 
consumer fresh from the gardens, he would certainly 
be willing to pay more for his home-grown products 
than for the bruised and battered ones that are freiglited 
from the metropolis. Take, for example, the article 
of Celery, which pays us very well at two cents per 
root. There is hardly a city or town in the coun- 
try, except New Ycrk, but where it sells for twice, 
and in some cases six times, that price per root ; yet 
the great bulk of this article sold in Philadelphia is 
sent from New York, for which the consumer must 
pay at least double the price paid here, for it is a 
bulky and expensive article to pack and ship, and 
must of a necessity pay a profit both to the agent 
here and in Philadelphia, which of course comes out 
of the pocket of the consumer. This is only one of 
many such articles of which the culture is imper- 
fectly understood^ and which the great market of New 
York is looked to for a supply. 

The following will show the rate of receipts and 



22 GARDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. 

expenditures for one acre of a few of the leading arti- 
cles we cultivate, taking the average of the past ten 
years, from the grounds that have been brought up 
to the proper standard of fertility necessary to the 
market garden : 

EXPENDITURES FOR ONE ACRE. 

Labor $480 

Horse-labor 50 

Manure, 75 tons 100 

Rent 50 

Seeds 10 

Wear and Tear of Tools, etc 10 

Cost of Carriage to Market and Selling 100 



RECEIPTS FOR ONE ACRE. 

13,000 Early Cabbages, at 4 cents per head. $480 

14,000 Lettuce, at 1 cent per head 140 

80,000 Celery, at 2 cents per head 600 

$1,220 
800 

$420 

The rotation crops of Early Beets or Onions, fol- 
lowed by Horseradish or Sweet Herbs as a second crop, 
give nearly the same results. 



LOrATION, SITCATION AND LAYING OUT. 23 

CHAPTEE IV. 
LOCATION, SITUATION AND LAYING OUT. 

Location. — Before deciding on the spot for a gar- 
den, too much caution cannot be used in selecting 
the locality. Mistakes in this matter are often tlie 
sole cause of want of success, even when all other 
conditions are favorable. It is always better to pay 
a rent or interest of $50, or even $100, per acre on 
land one or two miles from market than to take the 
same quality of land six or seven miles distant for noth- 
ing ; for the extra expense of teaming, procuring ma- 
nure, and often greater difficulty of obtaining labor, 
far more than counterbalance the difference in the 
rental of the land. Another great object in being 
near the market is that one can thereby take advan- 
tage of the condition of prices, which often in per- 
ishable commodiiies like garden produce is very va- 
riable. It not infrequently happens that, from scar- 
city or an unusual demand, there will be a differ- 
ence of $15 or $20 per load, even in one day ; hence, 
if near a market, larger quantities can be thrown in 
than if at a distance, and the advantage of higher 
rates be taken. 

This disadvantage in distance only holds good for 
perishable articles that are bulky. The lighter and 
valuable crops, such as Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Let- 
tuce, Radishes, etc., from more southern and earlier 
localities are grown often hundreds of miles distant 
and freighted to market at a handsome profit. So 
with the less perishable articles, such as dry roots of 
Carrots, Beets, Parsnips, Horseradish, etc. But the 
necessity for nearness to market for the bulky and 
perishable cropi, such as Cabbage, Lettuce and Cel- 
ery, is of importance. 



24 GARDENING FOR. PROFIT. 

Situation and Laying-out. — It is not always that 
choice can be made in the situation of or asjoect of 
the ground ; but whenever it can be made, a level 
spot should be selected, but if there be any slope, 
let it be to the south. Shelter is of great impor- 
tance in producing early crops, and if a position can 
be found where the wind is broken off by woods or hills 
to the north or northwest, such a situation would 
be very desirable. In the absence of this we find it 
necessary to protect, at least, our forcing and fram- 
ing grounds, with high board fences, or, better yet, 
beHs of Norway spruce. The most convenient shape 
of the garden is a square or oblong form ; if square, 
a road twelve feet wide should be made through the 
center, intersected by another road of similar width ; 
but if oblong, one road of the same width running 
through the center in a plot of ten acres will be suf- 
ficient. 

Vegetable House, Wells, Etc. — Connected with 
every market garden is a vegetable house, usually 
about twenty-five feet square, having a frost-proof 
cellar, over which is the vegetable or washing house. 
In the second story is a loft for seeds, storage, etc. 
Immediately outside the vegetable house is the well, 
from which the water is pumped to a tub in one cor- 
ner of the building, on each side of which are erected 
benches of convenient height, on which the workmen 
tie and wash the vegetables preparatory to sending 
them to market. 



SOIL, DRAINAGE AN^D PliEPARATION. 25 

CHAPTER V. 
SOIL, DRAINAGE AND PREPARATION. 

In the course of an experience of nearly forty years as 
a market gardener, in the neighborhood of New York. I 
have had, in the prosecution of the business, the oppor- 
tunity of reclaiming large tracts of very different varities 
of soil. Some of these, almost the first season, yielded a 
handsome profit, while with others, the labor of years, 
and the expenditure of large sums in extra manuring and 
draining, have never been able to bring these uncongenial 
soils up to the proper standard of productiveness. 

On many occasions I have referred to the great impor- 
tance of selecting a proper quality of soil for all garden- 
ing and farming operations, and the fact cannot be too 
often nor too forcibly impressed that success hinges more 
directly upon this than on anything else. Thousands are 
every year ruined by a bad selection of soil. I have 
scores come to me in the course of every season for advice 
in this matter of soils, but in most instances the advice is 
asked too late ; the majority of the applicants having 
been unfortunate enough to buy or rent land that they 
had been led to believe was excellent, but only *^run 
down." In my opinion this widespread notion of '^ex- 
hausted lands " is, to a great extent, a fallacy, and that 
most of the lands said to be so exhausted never were 
good, and nothing short of spreading a good soil over 
them a foot thick would ever make them available. 

The practical test of the importance of a good soil for 
market garden operations is clearly shown in a score of 
cases in my vicinity. Wherever a man of ordinary indus- 
try and intelligence has been fortunate enough to locate 
on land that is naturally good, his success has been cer- 
tain, while others that have not been able to procure such 
land have had to struggle far harder for less returns ; in 



20 GAKDENING FOR PROFIT. 

some few instances entire failure has been the case, for 
the reason that the soil started on was unhtted for the 
purpose. 

The variety of soil that we value above all others is an 
alluvial saline deposit, rarely found over more than a mile 
inland from the tide mark. It is of dark heavy loam, 
containitis: throughout a large mixture of decomposing 
oyster and other shells ; it averages from ten to thirty 
inches deep, overlaying a subsoil of yellow sandy loam. 
The next lest variety is somewhat lighter soil, both in 
color and specific gravity, from eight to fifteen inches 
deep, having a similar subsoil to the above. Then we 
have a still lighter soil, in both senses of the term, in 
which the sand predominates over the loam, and laying 
on a subsoil of pure sand ; this variety of soil is well 
adapted for Melons, Cucumbers, Sweet Potatoes, Rad- 
ishes and Tomatoes, but is almost useless for growing 
crops of Onions, Cabbages or Celery. We have still 
another kind of soil, which I place last, as being of the 
least value for the purpose of growing vegetables ; this 
variety, singularly enough, is found on the highest points 
only, its color being somewhat lighter than that of the 
variety first mentioned ; it is what is termed a clayey 
loam, averaging ten inches in depth, under which is a 
thick stratum of stiff bluish clay. "With a subsoil of 
this nature it is almost useless to attempt to grow 
early vegetables for market purposes. 

I have just such a soil as the last mentioned, thoroughly 
drained three feet deep, the drains only eighteen feet 
apart, and yet in another garden that I work, having the 
two f rst named soils and only one mile distant, manured 
and cultivated the same in all respects, fruits and vege- 
tables are ready from five to ten days earlier. But for 
the succession, or second crops, such as Celery, etc., this 
stiff, cold soil is just what is wanted ; earliness with these 
is not the object, and its " coldness" is congenial to the 



SOIL, DRAINAGE AND PRKPARATIOX. 27 

roots of the Ir.te crop. But if selection can be made for 
general purposes, choose a rather dark-colored loamy soil, 
neither "sandy" nor "clayey," as deep as can be found, 
but not less than twelve inches. If it overlay a sandy 
loam of yellowish color, through which water will pass 
freely, you have struck the right spot, and abundant 
crops can be raised under proper management. When 
selecting land, do not be deceived by any one who tells 
you that if not naturally good, the soil may be made so 
by "cultivation and manure. These will hel]:>, certainly, 
but only as education improves the shallow mind. Lux- 
uriant crops can no more be expected from a thin and 
poor soil — no matter how much it is cultivated — than 
fertile ideas from a shallow brain, educate it as you will. 
The best guide in the selection of land for garden pur- 
poses is to closely examine and compare the crops on 
lands adjacent ; if, under ordinary culture, you see these 
lands producing good crops of Corn, Wheat, or Potatoes, 
or where the meadows give two or three tons of Hay to 
the acre, it is reasonable to expect that land on the same 
level as that in question wiU be of similar quality. But 
should the land to be selected for garden purposes be in 
a region where there is nothing but timber or the natural 
grasses to guide^ then the best thing to do is to carefully 
dig in different parts of the land to ascertain the depth 
and quality of the top soil, and above all the texture of 
the subsoil, which, if it be of stiff, adhesive clay, such as 
bricks could be made from, turn back at once and let 
that soil alone, if desired for garden work. To the en- 
tirely inexperienced person, who is about to lease or pur- 
chase land for garden work, I would advise him to get, 
if possible, an entirely disinterested practical farmer or 
gardener to examine the soil and general surroundings of 
the locality before entering on the undertaking ; for, as 
before said, the quality of the soil is all important to 
success. 



28 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Drainage. — Every operator in the soil concedes the 
importance of drainage, yet it is really astonishing to 
observe how men will work wet lands, year after year, 
wasting annually, by loss of crops, twice ihe amount re- 
quired to thoroughly drain. A most industrious German, 
in this vicinity, cultivated about eight acres for three 
years, barely making a living ; his soil was an excellent 
loam, but two-thirds of it was so ^* spongy " that he could 
never get it plowed until all his neighbors had their crops 
planted. Driving past one day I hailed him, asking him 
why he was so late in getting in his crop, when he ex- 
plained that if he had begun sooner his horses would 
have "bogged" so he might never have got them out 
again. I suggested draining, but he replied that would 
never pay on a leased place ; he had started on a ten 
years' lease, which had only seven years more to run, and 
that he would only be improving it for his landlord, who 
would allow him nothing for such improvement. After 
some further conversation I asked him to jump into my 
wagon, and in ten minutes we alighted at a market gar- 
den that had, six years before, been just such a swamp 
hole as his own, but now (the middle of May) was luxu- 
riant with vegetation. I explained to him what its former 
condition had been, and that the investing of $500 in 
drain tiles would, in twelve months, put his in the same 
condition. He, being a shrewd man, acted on the advice, 
and at the termination of his lease purchased and paid 
for his eight acres 112,000, the saving of six years on his 
drained garden. This was in war times, when prices for 
all products were double what they are now. I honestly 
believe that had he gone on without draining he would 
not have made $1,200 in twelve years, far less $12,000 in 
six years. My friend attributes his whole success in life 
to our accidental meeting and conversation that May 
morning, and consequently I have no stauncher friend 
on earth than he. 



(iOIL, DRAINAGE AND PREPARATION. 29 

The modes of draining must be guided to a great 
extent by circumstances. Wherever stones are abund- 
ant on land, the most economical way to dispose of 
them is to use them for drainage. 1 have also used 
with great success in a wet, sandy subsoil, where dig- 
ging was easily done, brush from adjacent w^oods, cut off 
and trodden firmly two feet deep in the bottom of drains 
five feet deep, overlaying the brush with straw or 
meadow hay before covering in. Drains so made have 
answered well for nearly a dozen years, and in sit- 
uations where no other material offers, they will at 
least answer a temporary purpose. But unquestion- 
ably, when at all attainable at anything like reason- 
able cost, the cheapest and most thorough draming 
is by tile. We use here the ordinary horseshoe or 




Fig'. 1. — HORSESHOE TILE. 

round tile — three-inch size for the laterals, and from five 
to six inch for the mains. On stiff, clayey soils we 
make our lateral drains three feet deep and from fifteen 
to eighteen feet apart ; on soils with less compact sub- 
soils, twenty to tweaty-five feet distant. We find it 
cheaper to use the horseshoe than the sole tile. In lieu 
of the sole we cut common hemlock boards in four 
pieces — that is, cut them through the middle — and split 
these again, making a board thus cut run about fifty feet. 
These are placed in the bottom of the drains and prevent 
the cagging of the tiles in any particular spot that 
might be soft (figure 1). We are particularly careful 
to place, after setting, a piece of sod, grass down, 
over the joinings of the tiles to prevent the soil from 
getting in and stopping up the drainao^e. 

The manner of constructing stone drains is gov- 



30 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



erned by the character of the stone on hand ; if 
round, they are best made as rubble drains (figure 2), 
but if flat, Avhich is much the best, they are made 
as represented by figure 3 ; but in either case the same 
care must be exercised in covering over the top thor- 
oughly with sod, shavings, straw or some similar ma- 
terial, in quantity sufficient to prevent the soil from 
washing in and filling up the cavity. 

Cheap drains of hemlock boards are found to be 
very useful for wet lands and can often be obtained 
when the regular tiles cannot. They are usually less 
costly and are more quickly laid. Such drains are usu- 







* =^NNN**^N -^W ~ 




riff. 2. — HUBBLE DRAIN. 



Fig. 3. — FLAT STONE DRAIN. 



ally made triangular, with three boards three or four 
inches wide, nailed edge to edge, or the better way is to 
put the cover on the top of the drain crosswise (fig. 4). 
This gives more openings through which the water may 
enter the drain, and also makes them stronger. Where 
roads, cross a drain of this kind, it is safer to make 
them in this way and also to lay a plank upon the 
drain to distribute the pressure. Every precaution 
should be taken to have the work of draining thor- 
oughly done. It is costly work, and if one little 
blunder is made, everything may be spoiled, for a drain 



SOIL, DRAINAGE AND PREPARATION. 31 

is like a cliain, and if an obstruction occurs it is 
like a link broken — the drain is rendered useless, like 
the chain. 

Preparation of the Ground. — Assuming that the 
ground on which the garden is to be formed is in 
sod, the best time to begin operations is in Septem- 
ber, October, or November. If draining is necessary, 
that should be first completed. Before the sod is 
plowed, it would greatly assist its rotting, if horse 
manure can be obtained, to spread it over the sur- 
face to the depth of two or three inches. In plow- 
ing the sod under, care should be taken to have it 
laid as flat as possible. This can be best done by 
plowing shallow ; and at this time there is no par- 
ticular necessity for deep plowing. After plowing we 




Fig. 4.— BOARD DRATN. 

find it advantageous to flatten down the furrows by 
running over with the hack of ihe common harrow, 
or, better yet, with the shortened blades of the Acme 
harrow (see implements). This mellows the soil, so 
that it fills up the crevices left between the fur- 
rows, and hastens the decomposition of the sod. If 
the plowing has been done early enough in the fall, 
so that the sod has had time to rot the same sea- 
son, it will facilitate the operations of next spring 
to cross plow and thoroughly harrow ; but if too late, 
this had better be deferred until spring. After the 
ground has been well broken up by this second plow- 
ing and harrowing, it should again be manured over 
the whole surface with rough stable manure, as much 
as can well be procured — there is rarely danger of 



32 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

getting too much — and the third plowing takes place, 
followed this time by tlie subsoil plow if time will 
permit. I have always found it best in breaking in 
new ground, to crop with Potatoes, Corn, or late Cab- 
bages the first season, unless by preparation in early 
fall it has acquired the proper mellow state necessary 
for crops of garden vegetables or small fruits ; but it 
rarely happens that any amount of labor or manur- 
ing can so prepare the ground the first season as to 
bring it to that high degree of tilth necessary for 
growing garden vegetables as they should be grown, 
and any attempt to do so will result in a meagre 
crop, which will not pay — at least m such districts 
as New York, where there is always abundance of 
products of the first quality. It must not be expected 
that the crops of Potatoes, etc., will give much profit 
for this unusual outlay in preparation and manure, 
for they certainly will not, and the beginner must be 
content to wait for his profits until the second sea- 
son. These are certain to be realized if these prep- 
arations have been properly made. Hence will be seen 
the necessity for capital in this business, for the re- 
turns, though highly remunerative, are not always 
quick. 



MAK URES. 33 

CHAPTER VI. 
MANURES. 

The quantity, quality, and proper application of ma- 
nures is of the utmost importance in all gardening opera- 
tions, and few have any conception of the immense quan- 
tity necessary to produce the heavy crops seen in our 
market gardens. Of stable or barn-yard manure, from 
fifty to one hundred tons per acre is used, and prepared, 
for at least six months previously, by thoroughly turning 
and breaking up to prevent its heating unduly. The 
usual method is to have the manure yard formed in a 
low part of the garden, but if there is no natural depres- 
sion, one may be made by digging out an area fifty by 
one hundred feet and from eighteen to twenty-four inches 
deep, and enclosing it by a fence about six feet in height. 
The wagons are driven alongside, and the green manure 
thrown into the enclosure, care being taken to have it 
spread regularly ; hogs are usually kept upon the manure 
in numbers sufficient to break it up, they being fed in 
part by the refuse vegetables and weeds of the garden. 

The manure of horses is most valued, as we consider it, 
weight for weight, worth about one-fourth more than 
that of cows or hogs ; on stiff soils it is of much more 
benefit as a pulverizer. There are many articles — the 
refuse of manufactures — that are still wasted, that have 
great value as manures. Among others, and of first im- 
portance, is the refuse hops from the breweries. It is 
twenty years ago since they first began to be used in our 
gardens about New York ; at first they were to be had 
* at almost every brewery without cost, but the demand 
has so increased that the price to-day ranges even higher 
than that of the best stable manure. Aside from its high 
fertilizing properties, it is excellent for breaking up and 
pulverizing the soil, and as a top-dressing or mulching, 



34 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

either to protect from the sun in summer, or from the 
frost in winter, it has no equal. From my experience 
with this fertilizer, I consider it to be of nearly double 
the value of that of stable manure. It requires to be 
composted in the same manner as other manures ; it heats 
rapidly, and must be either spread regularly over the hog 
yard, or else turned once in two weeks to prevent 'Mire- 
fang " from violent heating. 

Another valuable refuse from our manufactories is'the 
shavings and scrapings from horn or whalebone manu- 
factories. The best way to render these most available 
is to compost them thoroughly with hot manure, in the 
proportion of one ton of shavings to fifteen of manure ; 
the heated manure extracts the oil from the shavings, 
which is intermingled with the whole. I have on several 
occasions seen the mixture of five tons of whalebone 
shavings with our ordinary stable manure make $400 per 
acre difference in the value of the crop ; but of course 
such manufactories are not common, and it is only in 
certain localities that this fertilizer can be had. 

Another valuable fertilizer from manufactories is 
'^ sugar house scum," which is composed largely of blood, 
charcoal, and saccharine refuse ; as it heats violently, 
instead of being throv/n in heaps by itself, it should be 
composted with equal quantities of soil or muck, and 
turned frequently, so that the whole is thoroughly 
mixed ; when thus composted, it makes an excellent ma- 
nure at twenty tons per acre ; it is best applied by lightly 
plowing, or deeply harrowing-in. 

Of concentrated manures, perhaps the best for general 
purposes is pure Peruvian guano ; this for general crops, 
when used without the addition of stable manures, is put 
on at the rate of from 1,000 to 1,200 pounds per acre ; it 
is first pounded to powder, so that it can be regularly 
sown over the surface after plowing ; it is then thoroughly 
harrowed in, and the crop is sown or planted at once. In 



MANURES. do 

my experience, the next best concentrated fertilizer is 
bone dust, or flour of bone ; in careful experiments with 
our crops of cauliflower and cabbage, we applied it in the 
same manner as guano, but at the rate of nearly 2,000 
pounds per acre, and it gave most satisfactory results, 
surpassing those of guano, where that had been used at 
the rate of 1,200 pounds per acre. In applying manures 
to the soil, we have long ago discovered the great impor- 
tance of an alternation of different kinds. When I first 
began business as a market gardener I liad opportunities 
of getting large quantities of night soil from the scaven- 
gers of Jersey City ; this was mixed with stable manure, 
charcoal, sawdust, or any other absorbent most conveni- 
ent, and applied, so mixed, at the rate of about thirty 
tons per acre. The crops raised with this manure were 
enormous, for two or three years, but it gradually began 
to lose effect, and in five years from the time we began 
to use it, it required nearly double the weight of this 
compost to produce even an average croj). I then aban- 
doned the use of night soil and applied refuse hops 
instead, at the rate of about sixty tons per aero, with 
marked improvement ; but this was for the first and 
second years only, the third year showing a falling off. 
About this time our prejudices against the use of con- 
centrated manures for market gardening began to give 
way, and at first we applied guano together with manure 
at the rate of 300 pounds per acre, which we found to 
pay : and the next season guano was used at the rate of 
1,200 pounds per acre with very satisfactory results. 
Smce then our practice has been a systematic alternation 
of manures, which I am convinced is of quite as much 
importance to the production of uniform crops of first 
'{uality, as is the alternation of varieties of the different 
kinds of Axgetables. 

It is a grave blunder to attempt to grow vegetable 
crops without the use of manures of the various kinds in 



36 GARDENING FOK PROFIT. 

about the pjoportions I have named. ^ I never yet saw 
soil of any kind that bad borne a crop of vegetables that 
would produce as good a crop the next season without 
the use of manure, no matter how ''rich" the soil may 
be thought to be. An illustration of this came under 
my observation a few years ago. One of my neighbors, 
a market gardener of nearly twenty years' experience, 
and whose grounds had always been a perfect model of 
productiveness, had it in prospect to run a sixty-foot 
street through his grounds. Thinking his land suf- 
ficiently rich to carry through a crop of Cabbages with- 
out manure, he thought it useless to waste money by using 
guano on that portion on which the street was to be, 
but on each side, sowed guano at the rate of 1,200 pounds 
per acre, and planted the whole with Early Cabbages. 
The effect was the most marked I ever saw. That por- 
tion on which the guano had been used sold off readily 
at 112 per hundred, or about $1,400 per acre, both price 
and crop being more than an average — this was the era 
of high prices — but the portion from which the guano 
had been withheld, hardly averaged 13 per hundred. The 
street occupied fully an acre of ground, so that my friend 
actually lost over 11,000 in crop by withholding 160 for 
manure. Another neighbor, whose lease had only one year 
to run, and who also unwisely concluded that it would be 
foolish to waste manure on his last crop, planted and 
sowed all without it. The result was, as his experience 
should have taught him, a crop of inferior quality in 
every article grown and loss on his eight acres of prob- 
ably $2,000 for that season. The comparative value of 
manures must be regulated by the cost. If rotted stable 
manure, whether frcmi horses or cows, can be delivered 
on the ground at 13 per ton, it is about as valuable for 
fertiUzing purposes as Peruvian guano at $65 per ton, or 
pure bone dust at 140 per ton. It is "better than either 
of these or any other concentrated fertilizer, from the 



MANURES. 37 

fact of its mechanical action on tlio land — that i^, its 
eifect, from its light, porous nature, in aerating and pul- 
verizing the soil. Guano, bone dust, or other fine com- 
mercial fertilizers act only as such, without in any way 
assisting to improve what may be called the mechanical 
condition of the soil. 

All experienced cnltivators know that the first year 
that land is broken up from sod, if j^i'oper culture has 
been given by thorough plowing and harrowing (pro- 
vided" the land is drained artificially or naturally, so as to 
be free from Avater and relieve it from ^'sourness"), the 
land is in better condition for any crop than land that 
has been continuously crojoped without a rest. The 
market gardeners in the vicinity of New York are now 
so • well convinced of this that when twenty acres are 
under cultivation at least five acres are continually kept 
in grain, clover, or grass, to be broken up successively 
every second or third year, so as to bring the land into 
the condition that nothing else but rotted, j^ulverized sod 
will accomplish. This is done in cases where land is as 
valuable as 1500 ])er acre, experience having proved that 
with one-quarter of the land ''resting under grass" 
more profit can be made than if the whole were under 
culture. 

AVhen the rotation by placing a portion of the land 
under grass cannot be done, then it is absolutely neces- 
sary to use stable manure, at least to some extent, 
if the best results are desired, for continuous crop- 
ping of the soil. Where concentrated fertilizers only 
are used, they will not continue to give satisfactory re- 
sults after the grass roots or other organic matter has 
passed from the soil, all of which will usually be entirely 
gone by the third or fourth year after breaking up. I 
have long held the opinion that the idea of lands having 
been 'permanently exhausted by tobacco or other crops is 
a fallacy. What gives rise to this belief, I think, is the 



38 GAKDEiiTING FOR PROFIT. 

fact that when lands are first broken up from the forest 
or meadow lands, for three or four years the organic 
matter in the soil — the roots of grasses, leaves, etc. — not 
only serves to feed the crops, but it keej)s the soil in a 
better state of pulverization, or what might be called 
aerated condition, than when in the course of cropping 
for a few years it has passed away. Stable manure best 
supplies this want ; but on farm lands away from towns, 
it is not often that enough can be obtained to liave any 
appreciable effect on the soil, and hence artificial fertiliz- 
ers are resorted to, which often fail, not from any fault 
in themselves, but from the fact that, exerting little me- 
chanical influence on the land, it becomes compacted or 
sodden, the air cannot get to the roots, and hence failure 
or partial failure of crop. Thus we see that to have the 
best results from commercial fertilizers it is of great im- 
portance to have the land rested by a crcp of grain or 
grass every three or four years. 

The best known fertilizers of commerce are Peruvian 
guano and bone dust, though there are numbers of oth- 
ers, such as fish guano, dry blood fertilizer, blood and 
bone fertilizer, with the various brands of superphos- 
phates, all of more or less value for fertilizing purposes. 
It is useless to go over the list, and we will confine our- 
selves to the relative merits of pure Peruvian guano and 
pure bone dust. Guano at $G5 per ton we consider rela- 
tively equal in value to bone dust at $40 per ton, for in the 
lower priced article we find that we have to increase the 
quantity to produce the same result. Whatever kind of 
;Concentraced fertilizer is used, we find it well repays the 
j'abor to prepare it in the following manner before it is 
used on the land : 

To every bushel of guano or bone dust add three bush- 
els of either leaf mold from the woods, well pulverized 
dry muck, sweepings from a paved street, stable manure 
so rotted as to be like pulverized muck, or, if neither of 



MANURES. 39 

these can be obtained, any loamy soil will do ; but in 
every case the material to mix the fertiUzers with must 
hQ fairly dry and never in a condition of mud^ the mean- 
ing of the operation being that the material used is to act 
as a temporary absorbent for the fertilizer. The com- 
post must be thoroughly mixed, and if guano is used, it 
being sometimes lumpy, it must be broken up to dust 
before being mixed with the absorbent. 

The main object of this operation is for the better sep- 
aration and division of the fertilizer, so that when ap- 
plied to the soil it can be more readily distributed. Our 
experiments have repeatedly shown that this method of 
using concentrated fertilizers materially increases their 
value — probably twenty per cent. The mixing should be 
done a few months previous to spring, and it should, after 
being mixed, be packed away in barrels and kept in some 
dry shed or cellar until wanted for use. Thus mixed, it 
is particularly beneficial on lawns or other grass lands. 
The quantity of concentrated fertilizer to be used is often 
perplexing to beginners. We give the following as the 
best rules we know, all derived from our own practice in 
growing fruits, flowers and vegetables : 

Taking guano as a basis, we would recommend for all 
vegetable and fruit crops, if earliness and good quality 
are desired, the use of not less than 1,200 pounds per 
acre (an acre contains 4,840 square yards), mixed with 
tvv'o tons of either of the materials before recommended. 
Of bone dust about one ton per acre should be used, mixed 
with three tons of soil or of the other materials named. 

For market garden vegetable crops in the vicinity of 
New York, this quantity of guano or bone dust is har- 
rowed in, after twenty-five or thirty tons of stable manure 
have first been plowed in, so that the actual cost of 
manuring each acre is not less than $100, and often $150. 

AVhen fertilizers are used alone, without being mixed 
with the absorbent, they should be sown on the soil, after 



40 (GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

plowing or spading, about thick enough to just color t!ie 
surface, or about as thick as sand or sawdust is strewn on 
a floor. This quantity is utei broadcast by sowing on 
the ground after plowing and deeply and thoroughly har- 
rowing it in ; when applied in hills or drills, from 100 to 
300 pounds should be used to the acre, according to the 
distance of these apart, mixing well with the soil. 

When well-rotted stable manure is jorocurable at a cost 
not to exceed 13 per ton, delivered on the ground, 
whether from horses or cows, it is preferable to any con- 
centrated fertilizer. Rotted stable manure, to produce 
full crops, should be spread on the ground not less than 
three inches thick (our market gardeners use from fifty 
to seventy-five tons of well-rotted stable manure per acre, 
when no concentrated fertilizer is used), and should be 
thoroughly mixed with the soil by ^^lowing. 

The manure from the chicken or pigeon house is very 
valuable, and when composted as directed for bone dust 
and guano, has at least one-third their value. Castor-oil 
pomace is also valuable in about the same proportion. 

PouDRETTE is the name given to a commercial fertilizer, 
the composition of which is night soil, and dried swamp 
muck or charcoal dust as an absorbent. It is sold at 
about 112 to 115 per ton, and at that price may be equal 
in value, if too much of the absorbing material is not 
used, to bone dust at 140 j^er ton. 

Salt has little or no value as a fertilizer, except as a 
medium of absorbing moisture ; for experience shows 
that soils impregnated by saline matter are no more fer- 
tile than those inland out of the reach of such an atmos- 
phere. 

Muck is the name given to a deposit usually largely 
composed of vegetable matter, found in swamps or in 
hollows in forest lands. Of itself it has usually but little 
of fertilizing property, but, from its porous nature, when 



MANURES. 41 

dry, it is one of the best materials to use to mix with 
other manures as an absorbent. It can be used to great 
advantage if dug out in winter and piled up in narrow 
ridges, so that it can be partly dried and "sweetened" 
in summer. Thus dried, if mixed with stable manure, or, 
better yet, thrown in layers of three or four inches thick in 
the cattle or hog yard, where it can be trodden down and 
incorporated with the manure, the value of the manure 
thus treated will be nearly doubled. 

In reply to questions that I receive by the hundred 
each season, asking whether or not it is Avorth while to 
use the so-called special fertilizers claimed to be suited to 
the wants of particular plants, such as the '* Potato Fer- 
tilizer," '* Cabbage Fertilizer," '^Strawberry Fertilizer," 
" Rose Fertilizer," etc., I can only give this general an- 
swer, that while these manures may suit the plants they 
are claimed to be " special " for, I have little doubt that 
either one would suit equally well for the others, or if all 
were mixed together, the mixture would be found to an- 
swer the purpose for each kind of crop just as well as if 
kept separate and applied to the crop it was named for. 
These hair-splitting distinctions are not recognized to be 
of any value by one practical farmer or gardener in a hun- 
dred; for a little experience soon shows that pure bone dust 
or well-rotted stable manure answers for all crops nearly 
alike, no matter what they are. These special fertilizers 
for special crops are gradually increasing in number, so 
that some dealers now offer fifty kinds, different brands 
being offered for plants belonging to the same family. 
There is an ignorant assumption in this, and any culti- 
vator of ordinary intelligence cannot fail to see that the 
motive in so doing is to strike as broad a swath as possi- 
ble, so that a larger number of customers may be reached 
and a higher price obtained. 

One of my neighbors called the other day and informed 
me that his Lettuce crop, in his greenhouse, was failing, 



43 GARDENiXG FOR PROFIT. 

and asked nie what I thought of the " Lettuce Fertilizer" 
that was oifer*d in a circular that contained some lif tj 
other ^* specials." An inquiry developed the fact that he 
had been keeping his Lettuce crop at a night temperature 
of sixty-five degrees in January — ten to fifteen degrees too 
high for the welfare of the crop — so that there was just 
about as much chance of the special " Lettuce Fertilizer " 
helping the crop as there would be of giving health to a 
man in the last stages of consumption by feeding \\m\ 
beef-steak. I merely mention this incident to show how, 
and in what manner, the sellers of thes? special ferti- 
lizers obtain customers, even among practical gardeners. 

Lime or Marl. — I have always held that lime and 
marl have no direct fertilizing properties in themselves, 
except so far as they act to correct the acidity of the soil, 
or to lighten heavy soils, or to give adhesiveness to soils 
that are too light. In fact, I beheve they are valuable 
for their mechanical effects on almost every soil, unless 
such as lie along the sea coast, and in some cases a con- 
siderable distance inland ; on such soils there is no bene- 
fit to be derived from the application of lime. In apply- 
ing lime dust — whether from limestone or oyster shells — 
it should be put on after plowing, at the rate of not less 
than 100 bushels per acre, and then well harrowed in, so 
as to thoroughly mix it with the soil for four or five 
inches below the surface. 

Gas Lime is often very liberally offered by the gas 
companies ; it is a dangerous material and had better 
never be touched by the market gardener. I well re- 
membei- applying it to a piece of ground, which was so 
poisoned by the noxious gases that it did not regain its 
fertility for three years. 

Cotton-Seed Meal, mixed with one-third of any 
high grade of phosphate, is almost exclusively used by 
the market gardeners of Charleston and Savannah, where 



MANURES. 43 

the mixture costs about $30 per ton. Plowed in broad- 
cast, at the rate of from two to three tons per acre, it is 
believed to be, for that section, the best and cheapest 
fertilizer of any kind. 

Plastee is one of those fertilizers which have a re- 
markable effect upon some soils, while in other places it 
has no effect at all. Where the soils are benefited by it, 
it is of course advisable to use it. Its greatest effect is 
upon -clover, and where clover is used as a means of im- 
proving land, plaster is indispensable. It is one of the 
cheapest of all fertilizers and should by all means be used 
where it is beneficial. 

Wood Ashes are largely used by farmers as a top- 
dressing for meadows, spread on at the rate of fifty 
bushels per acre. The leached ashes that are brought to 
New York by the boat load, are sold at from fifteen to 
twenty cents per bushel, and, of late years, some of our 
gardeners have been using them instead of bone dust or 
guano as an addition to stable manure, harrowing them 
in after plowing at the rate of from 150 to 200 bushels 
per acre ; a lesser quantity (say one half) of unleached 
ashes would answer the same purpose. 

Geeen Manueing. — The practice of growing crops 
for the purpose of plowing them under to fertilize the 
soil is often turned to very great advantage. To procure 
an adequate supply of manure is often a very costly pro- 
cess. But a crop that may be easily grown in a few 
weeks, and then turned under, may furnish to the soil 
as much fertilizing matter as eight or ten tons of ma- 
nure ; and the process may often be repeated two or three 
times in one year. For instance, if land is plowed in 
October and sown to rye, the rye may be turned under 
in May or June, and corn may be planted. This will be 
in full growth early in August, Avhen it may also be 
turned under, furnishing ten or twelve tons more of 



44 OARDEXTNG FOTl PROFIT. 

valuable matter. Tu turning under so tall a crop as corn 
or rye the plow should be run across the rows, and a 
heavy chain looped fi"om the plow beam, just ahead of 
the standard, to the land side end of the inner whiffle- 
tree. This loop drags in the furrow, so as to catch the 
falling corn or rye, and pulls it down and into the fur- 
row so that the soil covers it. It should then be smoothed 
down with the back of the ordinary harrow or by the 
shortened blades of the Acme Harrow, so as to fill up the 
crevices, and thus quickly induce the rotting of the green 
crop. 



CHAPTER VII. 
THE USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 

We use cold frames for preserving Cauliflower, Cab- 
bage and Lettuce plants during the winter, and the for- 
warding of Lettuce and Cucumbers in spring and summer. 

To make the matter as clear as possible, we will sup- 
pose that the market gardener, having five or six acres of 
land, has provided himself with 100 of three by six foot 
sashes. The Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce plants, 
which they are intended to cover in winter, should be 
sown in the open garden from the 15th to the 20th of 
September in the latitude of New York ; farther north, 
earlier ; farther south, later. This matter of time of 
sowing is of vital importance ; for if too early, many of 
them will run to seed and of course are useless ; again, 
if sowing is done too late, cold weather sets in and the 
plants have not time to get strong enough to stand the 
winter. The Early Jersey Wakefield is. the variety used 
almost exclusively for raising cold frame plants. Our 
famous ''Early Summer Cabbage" if never so safe to 



USE AIn^D MAITAGEMENT OF COLD FKAMES. 45 

carry over in cold frames, unless, indeed, it is sown very 
late ; for example, when we sow the Wakefield here on 
the 15th of September, the Early Summer is not sown 
until ten or fifteen days later. 

Millions of this favorite variety for the South have 
been lost by running to seed from having been sown too 
early. On this subject I will give my views at length in 
another portion of this chapter. 

When the young Cabbage plants are of sufficient size, 
which they will be in about a month from the time of 
sowing, they must be replanted in the boxes or frames, 
to be covered by the sashes as winter advances. 

The boxes or frames we use are simply two boards, 
running parallel, and nailed to posts to secure them in 
line. The one for the back is ten or twelve inches wide, 
and that for the front seven or eight inches, to give the 
sashes, when placed u^ion them, pitch enough to carry 
off rain, and to better catch the sun's rays. The length 
of the frame or box may be regulated by the position in 
which it is placed ; a convenient length is fifty or sixty 
feet, requiring eighteen or twenty sashes. 

Shelter from the northwest is of great importance, and 
if the ground is not sheltered naturally, a board fence six 
feet in height is almost indispensable. The sashes should 
face south or southeast. Each three by six foot sash will 
hold five hundred plants of Cabbage or Cauliflower, and 
about eight hundred of Lettuce. These numbers will 
determine the proper distance apart for those who have 
not had experience. It should never be lost sight of that 
these plants are almost hardy, and consequently will 
stand severe freezing w^ithout injury, but to insure this 
condition they must be treated as their nature demands ; 
that is, after planting the Cabbage, Lettuce or Cauli- 
flower — which will be about the middle or end of Octo- 
ber — the sashes need not be put on for a niontli or six 
weeks after, unless a very cold spell comes for a 



46 GARDEXING FOR PflOFIT. 

day or two, which sometimes happens ; bnt if they 
have to be thus temporarily protected, be careful 
to strip off the sashes again, so as to harden the 
plants for cold weather. In cold weather, even on 
clear winter days, when the thermometer marks fifteen 
or twenty degrees in the shade, they must be abundantly 
aired, either by tilting up the sash at the back, or, better 
still, when the day is mild, by stripping the sash off en- 
tirely. With this hardening process there is no necessity 
for any other covering but the sash. In our locality we 
occasionally have the thermometer from five to ten de- 
grees below zero for a day or two together, yet in all our 
time we have never used mats, shutters, or any covering 
except the glass, and I do not think we lose more than 
two per cent., although in sections where the thermom- 
eter falls to twenty or thirty degrees below zero, mats or 
shutters will be necessary. They rarely pass through a 
winter, however, without having the stems split by the 
frost, even with us, but that does no injury, provided 
when planting: out in the opon field they are so set that 
the split part is in the ground. Cauliflower is more ten- 
der than Cabbage or Lettuce, and the sashes must be 
covered with mats. Some may think that the raising of 
plants in this manner must involve considerable trouble, 
but when they are informed that the Cabbage and Let- 
tuce plants so raised and planted out in March or April, 
not infrequently bring $600 per acre before the middle of 
July, giving us time to follow up with Celery for a second 
crop, it will be seen that the practice is not unprofitable. 
But we have not yet done with the use of the sashes ; 
to make them still available, spare boxes or frames are 
made, in all respects similar to those in use for the Cab- 
bage plants. These frames should be covered up during 
winter with straw or leaves in depth sufficient to keep 
the ground from freezmg, so that they may be got at and 
be m condition to bo j)lanted with Lettuce by the end of 



USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 



A 7 



February or the first of March. By this time the wc-.^her 
is always mild enough to allow the sashes to be taken off 
from the Cabbage and Lettuce plants (if they have been 
properly hardened), and they are now transferred to the 
spare frames to cover and forward the Lettuce. Under 
each sash we plant fifty Lettuce plants, having the ground 
first well enriched by digging in about three inches of 
well-rotted manure. The management of the Lettuce 
for heading is in all respects similar to that used in pre- 
serving the plants in winter ; the only thing to be at- 
tended to being to give abundance of air, and on the 
occasion of rain to remove the sashes entirely, so that 
the ground may receive a good soaking, which will tend 
to promote a more rapid and luxuriant growth. 

The crop of Lettuce is fit for market in about six weeks 
from time of planting, which is always two or three weeks 
sooner than that from the open ground. The average 
price for all planted is about 14 per hundred at whole- 
sale, so that again, with little trouble, our crop gives us 
12 per sash in six weeks. 

I believe this second use of the sash is not much prac- 
ticed outside of this district, most gardeners having the 
opinion that the winter plants of Cabbage or Lettuce 
would be injured by their complete exposure to the 
Aveather at as early a dat6 as the first of March. In 
fact, here we have still a few old fogies among us, whose 
timidity or obstinacy in this matter prevents them 
from making this double use of their sashes, which there- 
by causes them an annual loss of 12 per sash, and as some 
of them have over a thousand sashes the loss is of some 
magnitude. 

In my own practice I have made my sashes do double 
duty in this way for fifteen years ; the number when I 
first started being fifty, increasing until at one time I 
had 3,000 sashes in use. Yet m all that time I have 
only once had my plants so exposed injured, and then 



48 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

only a limited number, which I had neglected to suf- 
ficiently harden by airing. 

We have still another use of the sashes to detail. Our 
Lettuce being cut out by middle of May, we then plant 
five or six seeds of the Improved White Spine Cucum- 
ber in the center of each sash. At that season they 
come up at once, protected by the covering at night. 
The sashes are left on until the middle of June, when 
the crop begins to be sold. The management of the Cu- 
cumber crop as regards airing is hardly different from 
that of the Lettuce, except in its early stage of growth it 
requires to be kept warmer. Being a tropical plant, it is 
very impatient of being chilled, but in warm days airing 
should never b3 neglected, as the concentration of the 
sun's rays on the glass would raise the temperature to an 
extent to injure, if not entirely destroy, the crop. This 
third use of the sashes I have never yet made so profit- 
able as the second, because the crop has to compete 
against Southern grown Cucumbers, altl'ough it has al- 
ways been sufiicient to make it well worth the labor. 

There are a few men here who make a profitable busi- 
ness from the use of sashes only, having no ground except 
that occupied by the frames. In this way the winter crop 
of Cauliflower or Cabbage plants is sold at an average of $3 
per sash in March or April ; the Lettuce at $2 per sash 
in May, and the Cucumbers at II per sash in June, 
making an average of $6 per sash for the season ; and it 
must be remembered that these are wholesale prices, and 
that, too, in the market of New York, where there is 
great 'competition. There is no doubt that in hundreds 
of cities and towns of the Union the same use of sashes 
would double or treble these results. 

Cold frames are also used for sowing the seeds of Cab- 
bno"e. Cauliflower and Lettuce, instead of hot-beds. If 
the frames are closely shut up and covered at night by 
mats, the plants will be but little later than those from 



USE AN^D MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 49 

the hot-beds, and are raised with far less trouble. The 
time of sowing is about February 1st. In sections of 
the country where these plants cannot be set out 
before May it is useless to raise them in hot-beds. On 
the other hand, in the Southern States, where in the 
months of February and March there are no frosts, by 
adopting the same care in covering up at night, the 
seeds of Tomatoes, Peppers and Egg-plants, and the 
sprouts from Sweet Potatoes, can be forwarded with much 
less trouble in the cold frames than in the hot-bed. 

I am sometimes asked the question, how much freez- 
ing and thawing plants of Lettuce, Cabbages, etc., will 
stand without being destro3^ed. I have always taken the 
ground that the freezing and thawing, instead of being 
injurious, is a necessity for their safety. In doing so I 
know I run in direct opposition to a large majority of 
my brethren, but the experience of over a quarter of a 
century, yearly increasing in extent, assures me that I 
am correct, and I am further confirmed in my opinion by 
knowing that there is not a market gardener in this 
vicinity but whose practice in the management of cold 
frames is the same as my own ; though if the question 
was asked some of them if thawing and freezing did not 
injure plants, the answer might be in the affirmative, so 
universally luis the dogma been acepted. 

Again : " How long can frozen plants be kept from 
the light when covered up with snow ? " Much would 
depend on atmospheric conditions. If the plants were 
hard frozen when the snow covered up the sashes, then 
they might safely remain three or four weeks thus cov- 
ered, without light ; but if the ground was not frozen 
when the snow fell, then the snow must be removed 
from the sashes in tliree or four days, unless the fall has 
been so slight that light can get through to the plants. 



50 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

PROTECTING CLOTH IN LIEU OF SASHES. 

In many sections of the country it is difiKcnlt to get 
sashes, iind with many, too, their cost is such as to make 
them unattainable. To such the use of this new protect- 
ing cloth will be a great boon, particularly in the South- 
ern States, where only a slight protection is needed to 
ward olf frost for a few nights. In the winter of 1886 
millions of Cabbage and Cauliflower plants were lost in 
Georgia, South Carolina and Florida that might have 
been saved by the use of this cloth for protection. In 
our experiments with it the past winter, Ave found that 
while the thermometer stood at twenty-five degrees above 
zero, under this covering the temperature was thirty 
degrees above zero, while under the protection of sashes 
it was thirty-two degrees, or but two degrees more. 
All experienced cultivators know that the difference of 
five degrees in temperature in most cases would save 
nearly all the plants exposed in the open air from the 
danger of injury by frost. Could the orange trees of 
Florida the past winter have been enveloped in protect- 
ing cloth, I doubt if a bud would have been injured. 
Of course, in that case, it would have been impractic- 
able to do so ; but it is easily practicable to protect low- 
growing plants, such as Cabbage plants or fruiting Straw- 
berry crops. A gentleman from Florida told me last 
winter that he has repeatedly saved his crop of Straw- 
berries — covering an acre while in bloom — from early 
frost, by the use of ordinary cotton cloth, thereby vastly 
increasing the value of his crop. This protecting cloth, 
while being no cheaper than ordinary grades of cotton 
cloth, has the advantage in being so prepared that it is 
mildew-proof, and with ordinary care will last for five 
years. It is made in yard widths and can be shaped 
for use according to circumstances. Probably the sim- 
plest plan is to tack it to a light frame three by. six 



USE AND MAKAQEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 51 

feefc and use it just as sashes are used. Such ** sashes," 
made of protecting cloth, would cost not more than 
twenty cents each, while glass sashes cost (to say noth- 
ing of expense in freighting) $2 each. Besides, in the 
hands of inexperienced cultivators, the protecting cloth 
is safest, for if this covering is left on in the day-time 
when the sun is shining, there is comparatively little rise 
of temperature underneath it, while it is well known 
that if ventilation of fiames covered by glass sashes is 
not carefully attended to, the crop beneath may be 
quickly ruined by the sun's rays acting on the glass and 
raising the temperature. 

The past spring (beginning about middle of March), 
we covered a lot of Cdbbage plants witb the protecting 
cloth for th:ee weeks — never once taking it off night 
or day — and the plants were nearly as good as those 
covered by sashes, where daily attention had been given 
to ventilation. Not only will this cloth be found most 
useful in the winter in the Southern States, to guard 
against sudden snaps of frost, but to such as raise spring 
plants of Cabbages, Lettuce, Cauliflowers or Tomatoes, 
requiring protection in spring at the North, it will be 
found an excellent substitute for sashes. I do not rec- 
ommend the use of the protecting cloth in lieu of sashes 
in the winter months ; it would not answer in heavy 
snow. But for all spring work, from March to June, it 
will in most cases answer every purpose. 

SPRING RAISING OF CABBAGE, CAULIFLOWER AND 

LETTUCE. 

The question is put to me many hundreds of times 
every season as to what is the best method to produce 
plants of Cabbage, ('auliflower and Lettuce for early 
spring planting. Although we still grow several hun- 
dred thousands of fall sown plants annually (which are 
wintered over in cold frames), yet increased experience 



52 GARDENING FOR PR')FIT. 

appears to show that plants grown in the manner below 
described, which we have practiced for the past five 
years, can be done cheaper, and, at the same time, will 
produce nearly as good plants as by the old method of 
winterins^ over in cold frames. 

For our latitude, we make our first sowing on February 
1st in our greenhouses, where the temperature will aver- 
age about seventy degrees ; that is, about sixty degrees 
at night, and about eighty degrees during the day. Where 
there is not the convenience of a greenhouse, a hot-bed 
will answer the same purpose. A hot-bed, made with 
manure, about two feet deep, in a proper manner, pro- 
duces just about the same temperature and general con- 
ditions as will a well-appointed greenhouse. We find it 
more convenient to sow the seed in shallow boxes, which 
are made by cutting the ordinary soap boxes into three 
pieces, which gives us a depth of about tw^o inches for 
soil in each box. We use any light, rich soil for the pur- 
pose, sowing enough seed in each box to produce 1,000 
or 1,500 plants, or, if grown in the hot-bed without the 
box, each three by six foot sash should grow about 5,000 
plants ; but we find it more convenient to use the boxes 
than to sow in the soil put direct on the bench of the 
greenhouse, or on the manure of the hot-bed. The plants 
sown on February 1st, in a temperature averaging seventy 
degrees, will give plants fit to trans^jlant in about three 
or four weeks. AVe then use the same shallow boxes, 
putting in the bottom of each about one inch of well- 
rotted stable manure. Over that we place an inch of any 
ordinary light, rich soil, smoothing it so as to have it as 
level as possible. In these boxes, which are fourteen by 
twenty inches, we put an average of about 150 plants. 
The boxes are then taken direct to the ordinary cold 
frames, which, however, have been protected with ma- 
nure, as it would not do to put the boxes of tender plants 
on a frozen surface. It is very easy to keep the frost 



USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 53 

out of these cold frames by putting on three or four 
inches of dry leaves or manure before the soil freezes up, 
and placing the sash on the frames two or three weeks 
before they are to be used. In this way they will keep 
perfectly free from frost, and can be used at any time 
during the winter. The boxes should be placed as close 
to each other in the cold frames as they will stand ; 
about eight boxes fills a sash, thus holding about 1,200 
plants. If the sun is bright, it is well to shade them for 
a few days until they take root ; but the most important 
point of all is to cover the sashes with straw mats at 
night so securely that no frost will reach them in the 
cold frames. For the past three years we have each sea- 
son grown about half a million of Cabbage, Cauliflower 
and Lettuce plants in this way, and have had no tronble 
to keep them from freezing by carefully matting up, 
even when the thermometer has reached zero. 

Plants sown on the 1st of February are transplanted 
into the boxes about the 1st of March, and are at once 
placed in the cold frames, and will be fine to transplant 
to the open ground any time after the 1st of April if 
they have been carefully attended to by watering, airing 
and protection from frost. As I have before said, these 
dates refer particularly to the vicinity of New York City, 
where we can usually plant out in the open ground all 
kinds of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants about 
April Jst. If in districts where they cannot be planted 
out sooner than the middle of April, then the sowing- 
should not be made before the 15th of February, and the 
process of transplanting, etc., gone through as before 
stated, so that the plants will be in condition to set in 
the open ground by the loth of April. If in sections 
where Cabbages cannot be planted in the open ground 
before the 1st of May, then the sowing should be delayed 
until nearly the Ist of March, and the process of trans- 
planting in the frames the same. There are some sec- 



54 GAllDEXIXG FOR PliOFIT. 

tioiis in the Southern States, of course, where these di- 
rections would not apply, where the sowing would need 
to be done as early, perhaps, as the 1st of December ; 
and as it takes about two months from the time of sowing 
until they are fit to plant in the field, plants sown the 
1st of December in Southern States would be fit to set 
out by February 1st. It will be understood that there 
would be no necessity for sowing in hot-bed or green- 
house in such a climate as Florida. The protection of 
glass in an ordinary cold frame would give about the 
same average of temperature there in the winter months 
as we would have in the north by artificial heat. In 
most of the Southern States, in my opinion, the protect- 
ing cloth before alluded to would answer all the pur- 
poses of glass sashes — and even in the North, when mats 
are used, "sashes"' made of protecting cloth might be 
used instead of glass. There is another and simpler 
process of raising Cabbage plants ; that is, by sowing 
the seed in the cold frames direct. This is done here 
usually about the 15th of February or 1st of March, 
in as warm and sheltered a place as can be found for 
the frames. I saw one of my neighbors have a fine 
lot grown in that way last year. He had taken a crop 
of Head Lettuce out of his frames about the 15th of 
February, dug and raked the ground and sowed his 
Cabbage seeds in rows about five inches apart, sowing- 
enough to give about 1,500 plants under each three by six 
sash. He matted up carefully, giving ventilation to the 
sashQS whenever the weather would permit, and about 
the 1st of April he had fine plants, fit to go into the open 
ground right from where they were sown ; not quite so 
good, of course, as if they had been transplanted, but 
still much better than the ordinary hot-bed plants, which 
are generally too much drawn and too tender to stand 
cold weather until quite late in the season. If care is 
used to so cover up these cold frames when the plants 



OE COLD TRAMF'S. 55 

ha.ve been transplanted in the boxes, or sown as described 
above, there is hardly a chance but that excellent plants 
will be produced, as there is far less risk in the handling 
of them than those from the hot-bed. A very important 
point to always observe is, to cover them so that the frost 
will not get to them. In some sections it might be 
necessary to use a light shutter placed over the sash, and 
then, throw over them the heavy straw mats, at the same 
time covering up the alleys between the frames to the top 
of the board with dry leaves or ordinary stable manure, 
so as to prevent the frost striking through the boards into 
the plants. It is difficult to explain these operations as 
clearly by writing as we would like, and if any of our 
customers would take the time to come and see our opera- 
tions when we are at work, during the months of Febru- 
ary or March, they can get a better knowledge by see- 
ing them done on the spot. Our greenhouses and grounds 
are within forty minutes' time of our store, at Nos. 35 
and 37 Cortland t Street, New York, and if any one wish- 
ing to see our operations will call there, they will be given 
a card giving directions how to reach the place, which is 
located on the Jersey City Heights, two miles from the 
Jersey City Ferry, 



56 GARDENING FOR PROFIT, 

CHAPTER VIII. 
FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 

Although we do not consider hot-beds so convenient or 
even economical in the long run as the forcing-houses, 
elsewhere described, yet, as beginners in the business are 
usually not over-supplied with means, and as hot-beds are 
to be had at much less first cost than the forcing-hous'?;:, 
we give a description of their formation and management. 
The most convenient sash for the hot-bed is the three by 
six foot sash, made out of one inch and a half pine, cost- 
ing here, at present prices, when painted and glazed, 
from $2 to $3 each, according to quality. 

The frame for the hot-bed is usually made movable, in 
lenofths which three sashes will cover, makinor, when 
complete, a box-like structure, nine feet long (the width 
of three sasKes, three feet wide), and six feet wide (the 
length of the sashes) ; at the bottom or lower part the 
plank should be fifteen or eighteen inches high ; the back 
or top, twenty-four inches ; so that when the sashes are 
placed on, it will give them the necessary angle to receive 
the sun's rays and throw off the rain. The sashes should 
be made as tight fitting as they will easily work, and the 
plank forming the sides of the box should be high 
enough to cover the thickness of the sash, in order to pre- 
vent the cold air from penetrating. The hot-bed (formed 
on the surface) on which the frame and sashes are placed 
should not be less than four feet in depth of hot manure, 
and should project beyond the frame-work at least twelve 
inches on all sides ; that is, if the three sash-frame work 
measures six feet by nine, the hot-bed on which it is to 
be placed should be made eight feet by eleven. This is 
one style of hot-bed frame, and the one most commonly 
used in private gardens ; but in our market gardens, 
where a large surface is used, our necessities compel us 



FORMATIOX AND MAJ^AGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 57 

to adopt a far more economical mode, both in the cost of 
the frame- work and heating material. This is done 
somewhat after the manner adopted for cold frames. 
Parallel excavations are made, usually in lengths of sixty 
feet, two and a half feet deep, and six feet wide ; the 
sides of these pits are boarded up with any rougli board- 
ing, nailed to posts, and raised above the surface eighteen 
inches at the back and twelve inches at front. Strips are 
stretched across, on Avhich the sashes rest, wi'de enough 
to receive the edges of the two sashes where they meet, 
and allow of a piece of about an inch in width between 
them, so that the sash can be shoved backward and for- 
ward and be kept in place in giving air, etc. 

The heating material to form the hot-bed should be 
horse dung, fresh from the stables, adding to which, when 
accessible, about one-half its bulk of leaves fi-om the 
woods. The manure and leaves should be well mixed 
and trodden down in successive layers, forming a conical 
heap, large enough to generate fermentation in severe 
winter weather. Care must be taken that the material is 
not allowed to lie scattered and get frozen, else great 
delay will ensue before heat can be generated. A few 
days after the pile has been thrown together, and a lively 
fermentation has taken place, which will be indicated by 
the escape of steam from the heap, it should be again 
turned over and carefully shaken out, formed again into 
a pile, and left until the second fermentation occurs, 
which will be usually in two or three days. It may now 
be placed in the pit, or on the surface for the hot-bed 
already alluded to, being regularly beaten down by the 
back of the fork, and trodden so that it is uniformly of 
the same solidity, and to the required depth, two and a 
half feet. The sashes are now placed on the frames and 
kept close until the heat rises ; at this time a thermom- 
eter, plunged in the heating material, should indicate 
about 100 degrees, but this is too hot for almost any veg- 



58 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

ctable growth, and besides the rank steam given out by 
the fermentation should be allowed to escape before 
operations of sowing or planting begin. Beginners are 
very apt to be impatient in the matter of hot-beds, and 
often lose the first crop by planting or sowing before the 
violent heat has subsided, which it generally will do in 
about three days, if the heating material has been suffi- 
ciently prepared. As soon as the thermometer in the 
frame recedes to ninety degrees, soil should be placed on 
to the depth of five or six inches. This soil must be 
previously prepared, of one-third well-rotted manure (or, 
if procurable, rotted refuse hops from breweries), and 
two-thirds good loam, spread regularly over the surface 
of the manure in the hot-bed. 

We use hot-beds for various purposes. One of the 
most important uses is the forcing of Lettuce ; this is 
planted in the hot-beds (from plants grown in the cold 
frames), fifty under each sash, the first crop by second 
week in January ; it is covered at night by straw mats, 
and is usually marketable by the first of March. At that 
season Lettuce is always scarce, and will average, if 
properly grown, $6 per hundred, or $3 per sash. The 
crop is cut out by the first week in March, giving plenty 
of time to plant the same bed again with Lettuce ; but 
noAV it is no longer a hot-bed, for by this time the heat 
from the dung is exhausted, and it is treated exactly as 
described in the chapter on Cold Frames. 

Another use for the hot-bed is the raising of Tomato, 
and Egg, and Pepper plants. The bed should be pre- 
pared for these not sooner than the second week in 
March, with the temperature about tlie same as before 
described. In sowing, it is well to cover the seed, not 
more than a quarter of an inch, witli some very light 
mold ; nothing is better than leaf mold and sand, patting 
it gently with the back of the spade. From the time the 
seed is sown, attention to airing, during the hot part of 



rORMATIOX AND MAXAGEMJINT OF HOT-BEDS. 59 

the day, and covering up at jiiglit, is essential, and also 
that the soil be never allowed to get dry. Water, how- 
ever, must be applied with judgment, as there is just as 
much danger from soaking the soil too much. Waier 
should be applied with a fine rose watering pot, and if 
the water is heated to a temperature of eighty or ninety 
degrees, all the better. The temperature at night may 
range. from fifty-five to sixty-five degrees, and during the 
day from seventy to eighty degrees. As soon as the 
seedling plants are an iiicli or two high, which will be in 
four or five weeks, they must be taken up and re-planted 
in a more extensive hot-bed, for they now require room. 
Tomatoes should be phmted of a width to give seventy- 
five or 100 in each sash. Pepper and Egg Plants do 
better if planted in small flower pots (three-inch), as 
they are more difficult to transplant ; they may now also 
be kept a little closer in the hot-bed than the Tomatoes, 
as they require more heat. After transplanting, great 
care is necessary that they always be immediately watered, 
and shaded from the sun until they have struck root, 
which will be in two or three days after transplanting. 

The hot-bed is also the medium for procuring us Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants for early outside 
planting, Avhen not convenient to winter them over as 
described in the uses of cold frames. The seeds of these 
are sown about the last week in February, are treated in 
all respects as regards covering up at night as the Toma- 
toes, etc., but, being plants of greater hardiness, require 
more air during the day. They will be fit to plant in 
the open garden by the middle of April. The beds they 
are taken from are usually employed for re-planting 
Tomatoes, which it is not safe to plant in the open ground 
here before the middle of May. A more detailed ac- 
count of how to raise Cauliflower and Lettuce plants 
will be found in the Chapter under that head. 



60 GARDENING FOl^ PKOFIT. 

Sweet Potato plants are almost universally raised in 
hot-beds ; but, as this is a plant that luxuriates in a high 
temperature, the hot-bed should not be formed to start 
tliem until the middle of April. The soil should be a 
mixture of sand and leaf mold, laid on of the usual 
thickness on the hot-bed, six inches. The roots are 
placed close together, and tlie same sandj compost sifted 
over them to the depth of two inches. Seme split the 
large ones lengthwise and place them flat side down. 
They should not be watered until they start to grow. 
They are fit to plant out about six weeks after starting. 

Two most essential points in working hot-beds are in 
covering up at night and in giving air during the day. 
It often happens that a few mild nights in March or 
April delude us into the belief that all the cold weather 
is over, and the covering up is in consequence either care- 
lessly performed or abandoned. Every season shows us 
scores of victims to this mistake, who by one cold night 
lose the whole labors of the season. It is always safest 
to cover up tender plants, such as Tomatoes, Sweet Po- 
tatoes, etc., until the 10th of May in this latitude, and 
the more hardy plants, such as Cabbage, to the l&t of 
April, when raised in hot-beds. Even if there is no dan- 
ger from freezing, it will give a more uniform tempera- 
ture, and consequently conduce to a more healthy growth. 
The want of close attention in airing is equally danger- 
ous. Often an hour's delay in raising the sashes will 
result in the scorching up of the whole contents of the 
hot-bed, and irregularity of airing will always produce 
''drawn" and spindling j)lants, even when they are not 
entirely killed. The thermometer is the only safe guide, 
and should be regularly consulted, and whenever it indi- 
cates seventy-five degrees, it is safe to admit more or less 
of the outer air, proportioned of course to the condition 
of the atmosphere. If there be bright sunshine and cold 
wind, very little v.ill suffice ; if calm, mild, and sunny. 



FOEMATIO^^ AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 61 

admit larger quantities. If the days are warm, say sixty 
in the shade, in March or April, the sashes covering 
Cabbage, Cauliflower or Lettuce plants may be stripped 
entirely off, and also from Tomatoes in April and May 
wlien the thermometer is at seventy degrees in the shade, 
covering up at night, of course. 

Coverings for Protection Against Frost. — To 
cover up hot-bed sashes we use either light j^ine shutters or 
straw mats. The shutters are made the exact size of the 
sash. There is no necessity of tlieir being more than 




Fifj;. 5. — MAKING A STRAW-MAT. 

half an inch in thickness, as that is quite as effective in 
keeping out the cold as two inches would be, and they 
are much cheaper and more convenient to handle. Straw 
mats are, however, by far the warmest covering, and in 
hot-bed culture are almost indispensable. They are al- 
ways made at home, during wet days or in stormy weather 
in winter. The manner of making them is very simple, 
and will readily be learned at the first attempt. The 



62 GARDENING FOR PBOFIT. 

^^ uprights" or warps are formed of five strands of a 
tarred string known as "marline." These are tightly 
strained ten inches apart by being attached to five strong 
nails at bottom of a wall, corresponaing with the same 
number seven feet from the bottom. Ao-ainst these 
strings (beginning at the bottoDi) are laid small hand- 
f uls of rye straw, the bntt ends out, as long and straight 
as can be procured. This is secured to the uprights by 
a lighter kind of tarred string by taking a single turn 
around the upright and the straw, and so continued un- 
til the mat is finished. Some use a frame to which the 
strings forming tlie warp are attached, as shown in figure 
5. This allows the operator to have his work upright 
or horizontal, as may be most convenient. Two work- 
men will make about five mats in a day. AYhen fin- 
ished, the mats should be seven feet in length and 
four and a half feet in width, two being sufficient to 
cover three sashes. Tlie reason for having them made 
one foot longer than the sash is that there may be six 
inches to overlap at top and bottom, which are the most 
necessary points to secure from frost. In making these 
mats they may be constructed of sedge from the marshes 
or salt meadow hay when rye straw cannot be procured. 
It is important, however, that they may be made as 
light as possible, one inch in thickness being quite suf- 
ficient. By care in handling them, these mats will last 
for six or eight years. 



FORCING-PITS OR GREENHOUSES. 63 

CHAPTER IX. 
FORCING-PITS OR GREENHOUSES. 

In another chapter it will be found that we now rec- 
ommend using wider greenhouses with fixed roofs for 
growing vegetables, but as many have loose sashes that 
they may wish to utilize in constructing greenhouses, we 
will still retain the description given in the earlier edi- 
tions of this w^ork. 

Forcing-pits and greenhouses of the style about to be 
described, whenever the greater expense in their erection 
is not a consideration, are, in our experience, far sujdc- 
rior, and in the course of five or six years more economi- 
cal for all purposes of forcing or forwarding vegetables 
than the hot-bed or cold frame. Figure 6 represents 
the end section and ground plan of the style we have in 
use, and which may be adapted to any plant that requires 
artificial heat and protection of glass. The pits repre- 
sented by this plan are 100 feet in length, and each 
eleven feet wide inside. The heating is accomplished by 
one of Hitching's patent boilers, C, heating about 1,200 
feet of four-inch pipe. The glass roof, E, is formed of 
portable sashes, six by three feet. Each alternate sash is 
screwed down, the others being movable, so as to give 
adundance of air. The movable sash is elevated, to ad- 
mit air, by a flat iron bar fifteen inches long, attached to 
the sash by a staple. Into this bar is punched three 
holes, so as to regulate the admission of the air as re- 
quired. When the sash is shut down the bar is hooked 
on to a pin which secures it in place, so that the sash can- 
not be moved by wind. I am thus particular in describ- 
ing what may seem a simple matter, bnt this system of 
airing is not common, and we made some stupid blunders 
before we hit on our present plan, which is cheap, simple 



64 



GARDEN^IKG FOR PROFIT. 




Fig-. 6. — END SECTION AND GROUND PLAN OF FORCING-PITS HEATED BY 

WATER PIPES. 



FOKCIKG-PITS OR GREENHOUSES. 65 

and very effective. The movable sash is not hinged at 
the bottom, but is held in place by two small plates of 
iron screwed on the gutter plate. The ridge-poles are 
cut out of the shape shown at J, and the sashes lie on 
the shoulder. The interior arrangement of the pits will 
be easily understood by the end section. G shows the 
bench or table as it is completed, which is filled with five 
or six. inches of soil, in which the Lettuce, etc., are to 
be grown. This shows the boxing-in of the pipes, D, 
to give "bottom heat" to the cuttings, seeds or plants 
that are placed on the bench ; but on the sides of the 
bench, along the walk, one plank is hinged throughout 
the house, so that it may be let down when required and 
permit the escape of heat into the greenhouse. The 
walks through the house, K, are two feet wide. A 
brick shed, A, covers the boiler-pit, F, and is at- 
taehed to the north end of the pits. Besides breaking 
the wind at this vulnerable point, we find this shed a 
most excellent place for many purposes, as it is kept 
from freezing by the heat that escapes from the boiler- 
pit, which would otherwise be lost. This heat may be 
turned to a very profitable account in forcing Mush- 
rooms or Rhubarb, if desired for that purpose. 

The system of attaching three pits together is now 
almost universally adopted by commercial gardeners in 
all houses erected during the past twenty-five years in 
the neighborhood of New York ; it has great advantages 
over the detached system, being less expensive in heating, 
more saving of space, and, above all, far more economical 
in cost of construction. I prefer having only three to- 
gether, for the reason that when we have the snow to 
clear away it is quickly done by being shoveled from the 
two valleys or furrows over the ridges ; although we have 
one grower in this neighborhood who has twelve con- 
nected houses, and finds but little trouble with snow. 
Our snows being mostly from the north, the shed breaks 



66 



GARDENING rOR PROFIT. 



them off in a great measure, and what blows over blows 
mostly off through the 
valley betAveen the sashes. 
The water from the gut- 
ter is led into a cistern, 
at the south end of the 
greenhouses, of a capacity 
of not less than 3,000 
cubic feet — if 
5,000, all the 
better ; to this 
is connected a 
Douglas Force 
Pump, figure 7, 
with 150 feet of 
one and a half 
inch hose, and to the end 
of the hose is attached a 
heavy sprinkler. One man 
pumps, and anotlier reg- 
ulates the water and 
sprinkles it over the 
plants. My establishment 
in 1866 contained over an 
acre of glass, and yet, by 
this labor-saving arrange- 
ment, all the plants were 
thoroughly drenched with 
water by two men in four 
hours. Before adopting 

this method of watering, at least four of the 
hands were employed the whole day during the 
spring months in watering, and then the work 
was not done half so well. There is nothing 
that I have ever done, connected with horticultural 
operations, that has been so entirely satisfactory as this 




Fig. 7. 

DOUGLAS FORCE PUMP. 



FORCING-PITS OR GREENHOUSES. 67 

method of watering. Now, 1886, we are fortunate enough 
to have the city water, and can drench four acres of 
plants grown under ghiss in ten hours. 

In these pits may be propagated and groAvn Roses and 
all kinds of greenhouse and bedding plants of every de- 
scription, in the best possible manner. But as our pres- 
ent purpose is only with vegetables, I will endeavor to 
describe our mode of operations with some of these. 
Lettuce, from the great quantities consumed in all large 
cities, is now, and will be likely to be, one of the most 
profitable vegetables to force, for the reason that from its 
soft and bulky character it cannot be so safely or cheaply 
shipped from the South as many other kinds of vege- 
tables. We begin, for our first crop, by sowing the seed 
about the 20th of August, in the open ground, of the 
Boston Market, Black-Seeded Batter and Curled Simpson 
sorts, using by far the greatest propoi'tion of the first 
named, as it forms a solid head quicker and can be 
planted closer. These are planted on the benches of the 
forcing-house in five or six weeks after, at about six or 
eight inches apart each way, on well enriched soil, placed 
on the benches to the depth of five or six inches. At 
this season no ''forcing" is required, and the sashes 
should be kept raised to admit air, night and day, until 
frosts begin to be severe ; then they should be shut up 
at night, but no fire heat should be applied until the 
weather has been severe enough to indicate thirty-eight 
or forty degrees inside the pits, and even then very 
slightly, for if they can be brought to maturity at this 
season without the temperature exceeding fifty degrees 
at night (by fire heat), the crop will be all the better. 
The great thing in forcing all plants of this hardy nature 
being to avoid a high temperature, the temperature 
when steady firing is begun in the winter months, should 
average fifty degrees as near as possible. 

Of late years, Lettuce plants, when grown under glass^ 



68 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

have occasionally become affected by a species of mildew 
or rust, which, beginning in the center of the plant, 
quickly spreads over the whole and destroys it. I am 
not certain of the cause and can offer no cure — except to 
advise that great care should be taken to have the plants 
grown freely and without any sudden check by chilling 
or by the extremes of drouth and moisture. We find in 
the culture of plants under glass that some species are 
particularly sensitive to such checks — some varieties of 
the Rose, for instance, if, when in a particular condition 
of growth, the temperature for a few hours is reduced 
from sixty-five to forty degrees at night, or if a frosty 
southeast wind is allowed to play on the leaves for even 
ten minutes, or if allowed to dry so that the plant wilts, 
mildew will to a certainty be developed in twenty-four 
hours. The Verbena, Heliotrope and Petunia, when 
subjected to ill usage, become badly rusted. Therefore, 
I am inclined to think that the Lettuce disease is also 
caused by some ill usage at some period of its growth, 
for we find that it is rarely seen when the crop is grown 
in the open ground in spring or summer. The prevent- 
ive suggested is that plants to be forced should be pre- 
pared so carefully that no sudden check is given, and 
also that the soil used on the benches be fresh, and the 
manure used be thoroughly rotted and well mixed through 
the soil. 

To Check the Aphis or Greenfly. — Fumigating 
with tobacco should be done twice each week, beginning 
the very day the plants are planted in the bench. In 
fumigating we use refuse tobacco stems, about two pounds 
(dry) for every 1,000 square feet of glass, damping, how- 
ever, before using, so as to get the greatest amount of 
smoke. For fuller particulars on this head see chapter 
on '^ Wide Greenhouses for Forcing Vegetables." 

The first crop is ready about November 1st, and is 
cut off and sold in two weeks ; the soil on the benches is 



FORCING-PITS OK GREENHOUSES. 69 

slightly manured, dug up, and again planted (from plants 
sown in cold frames, or in boxes in the same pit) about 
September 20th. This second, or winter crop, requires 
more attention in growing, both in firing, watering, and 
airing, as it matures about January 1st, and consequently 
has had to be cai'ed for during a cold part of the 
year. The third crop, treated exactly as the second, is 
planted as soon as the other is cut off, and matures about 
April 1st. We now vary the use of the pit,' by planting 
at distances of about three feet apart algng the center of 
the bench, plants of the White Spine Cucumber, from 
seed sown about April 1st, in a corner of the pit that has 
been kept closer and warmer than that for the Lettuce ; 
these are plant^^ed in pots about three inches in diameter, 
and by tlie time the benches are cleared in May are fine 
strong plants, that give a full crop during the month of 
June — fully a month sooner than from the open ground. 
The combined value of these four crops will average about 
$400, for a structure 100 feet in length by eleven feet in 
width. The estimated expense of cultivation is : 

Interest on $700, cost of construction, at 10 per cent. $ 70.00 

Coal, five tons 30.00 

Labor, Manure, etc 100.00 

1200.00 
Receipts 400.00 

Net Profit $200.00 

These forcing-pits are likewise used for starting seeds 
of Tomato, Egg, Pepper, Cabbage, and Cauliflower, and 
sprouting Sweet Potatoes, which is done with far less risk 
and in a much better manner than can be accomplished 
by the hot-bed. One great adv^antage is, that by being 
able to walk inside of them, these pits are accessible in 
all weathers, while with the hot-bed or frames we are in 
winter often debarred from examination for whole days 
together. __ 



70 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

At present prices, in this locality, these pits cost about 
17 per lineal foot, everything complete, put up in the way 
indicated by the plan in a plain substantial manner. But 
those whose circumstances do not admit of the expense 
of heating by hot water (which is nearly half the cost of 
the whole), may put up structures of exactly the same 
character, and Iieat them by the common smoke flue at 
an expense of from 14 to 15 per lineal foot, in the man- 
ner shown by the plan, figure 8. It will be seen by this 
sketch that two, flues only are nsed for the three pits, 
each passing first up under the bench on the outside 
houses, is carried along the end and returned thi'ough 
the middle houses ; this equalizes the temperature in all 
three, for the outside houses get only one run of the flue, 
but it being directly from the fire gives about the same 
heat to the outside houses as two runs in the middle 
house, which, being a greater distance from the fire, are 
much colder. Three attached houses, heated thus, 
should not be over fifty feet long in this latitude. South- 
ward they may be sixty feet and northward forty feet. 
Peculiarities of locality have much to do with the heat- 
ing ; in positions particularly sheltered from the north- 
Avest, the same amount of flue will heat sixty feet quite 
as easily as in exposed places it will heat forty. The 
proper way of constructing the furnace and, flue is of im- 
portance enough to require a description, which is given 
at length on page 87. As far as possible, let the instruc- 
tions there given be followed to the letter, as they are such 
as long and very extensive experience ni the use of flues 
for greenhouse heating has shown to be such as rarely fail 
to give the v^ry best results. Twenty-five years ago 
nearly all the greenhouses used for commercial purposes 
were heated by flues. In my own practice I used no 
other mode of heating until 1860, and grew plants quite 
as well there as we do to-day. One of the largest rose- 
growing firms in this country still uses flues only, with 



FOECING-PITS OR GREENHOUSES. 



71 



-^ D 



O 



"^ 



M y 



r -^ 




Fig. 8. — END-SECTION AND GROUND PLAN OF FORCIKQ-PITS 
HEATED BY FLUE. ( 



72 GARDE2>}^ING FOR PROFIT. 

results that have been such as to make their business a 
complete success. Still, whenever it can be afforded, 
there is no question that hot water or steam is the best 
method of heating greenhouses. In the plan and section 
on the preceding page, A is the shed enclosing the fur- 
naces, C C, from which pass the flues, D, in the direc- 
tion shown by the arrows to the chimneys, L. The 
benches are not shown here, but they are arranged as in 
figure 6. 



GREENHOUSES FOR FORCII^G VEGETABLES. 



:3 



CHAPTER 

WIDE GREENHOUSES FOR 
FORCING VEGETABLE CROPS. 

Since *'* Gardening for Profit " 
was first written, larger experi- 
ence has shown that greenhouse 
structures for forcing vegetables 
cannot only be erected cheaper 
when made twenty or twenty- 
two feet wide, instead of ten or 
eleven feet as then in use, but 
from the larger volume of air a; 
they contain, which when once "" 
heated better resists the cold « 
outer air, less artificial lieat is t 

.5 

necessary. So well convinced § 
were we of the advantao'es of o 
the wider structure, that six ^ 
years ago we removed all our ^ 
old eleven foot houses (covering j 
nearly an acre in glass) and re- 2 
placed them with greenhouses ^ 
averaging twenty feet wide by c 
100 feet in lenoih. John Hud- > 
son, of Jersey City, New Jersey, t 
one of the most successful of all 
our marl<:et gardeners in tlie 
vicinity of New York, con- 
,s'riicted, the past season, six 
groe 11 houses, each 150 feet long 
by twenty-two feet wide, plans 
of Avhich are given in figures 9 
and 10. The cost of these 
greenhouses complete, with ven- 
tiliting apparatus, heating, 
benches, etc., was about $10,000, 



m 



WM 



n 



GAIIDEXIXG FOK PROFIT. 



or about 110 per running foot. The structure is very 
simple. Tlie walls front and rear are constructed of 
cedar posts, about five to six inches in diameter, placed 
four feet apart and sunk three feet in the grouiid. On 
the outside of these are nailed rough hemlock boards, 
against which a layer of asphalt or tarred pajier is tacked, 
over which is nailed the ordinary weather boarding. Such 
a wall will resist cold better than an eight-inch brick 
wall, and will last twenty-five years if kept painted. A 
very common error is to build the wooden wall of a green- 
house hollow and fill the space Avith sawdust. This 
should never be done, as it is more expensive, and is by 
no means so good as the plan here given. It will be 




Fig. 10. — CROSS-SECTION OF FORCING-HOUSE. 

seen by the engraving, figure 10, that these greenhouses 
of Mr. Hudson's are heated with hot water, the six O's 
in the engraving representing six runs of four-inch pipe, 
which is sutficient to give a night temperature of forty- 
five or fifty degrees when the thermometer is ten below 
zero, which is a sufi&cient night temperature in the win- 
tar months for growing such crops as Lettuce and Rad- 
ishes. Of course in the day-time, when the sun shines, 
the temperature of such a house will run fifteen or twenty 
degrees higher ; and ventilation should not be given until 
the temperature reaches seventy degrees. The great point 
to be considered in forcing crops of Lettuce or Eadishes 
in greenhouses is, if possible, not to let the night tempera- 
ture exceed fifty degrees. Of course this cannot be helped 



GREEN^HOrSES FOR 1-URCIXG VEGETABLES. 



it) 



in the fall months, when the temperature outside is often 
much higher than fift}^ at night ; hut in such cases, dur- 
ing the months of October and November, the ventilating 
sashes should be left up so as to keep the temperature at 
night as low as practicable. Often the entire first crops 
of Lettuce are lost for want of this precaution. Further 
experience has also taught us the necessity of using glass 
of a larger size. The size most used is twelve by sixteen, 
put in the twelve inch way. The object of the larger 
glass is to obtain the greatest amount of light. In glaz- 




Fig. 11.— IMPROVED METHOD OF GLAZING. 

ing, the method now almost universally adopted is to bed 
the glass in putty and tack it on the upper side with 
large glazing points, using no putty on top. The glazing 
points are triangular, one corner of which is turned down, 
so that when it is driven in it fits against the lower edge 
of each pane and prevents it from slipping down. A 
great mistake is often made in giving the glass too much 
lap. It should Just be given enough to cover the edge 
of the pane below from one-eighth to one-quarter of an 
inch. If given much more the water gets between the 
panes and when it freezes cracks the glass. 

It has been found that when the glass lies on the sash- 
bars thus imbedded, the putty soon rots or wears out, 



76 GAUDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. 

and water gets in, and not only loosens the glass, but 
rots the bar as well. A most simple plan to obviate this 
is to ponr along the junction of the bar with the glass 
a thin line of white lead in oil, over which is shaken dry 
white sand. This hardens and makes a cement that 
effectually checks all leakage. It is quickly done. The 
engraving, figure 11, shows how the portable sash is held 
and the application made from the oil-can containing the 
thin white lead. I have seen glass so cemented that has 
stood for ten years still in perfect order, and it looked as 
if it would stand for ten years more without further re- 
pair. This plan, which is but little known as yet, is of 
the greatest importance. Had I known of it thirty years 
ago, I would have saved many thousands of dollars in re- 
pairing, besides having the plants under this water-tight 
glazing in better condition. 

It will be seen that two of the hot water pipes are 
placed under the front bench. The other four are placed 
two on each walk. The front bench, four feet wide, is 
constructed so that it will hold five or six inches in depth 
of soil; but the middle or main bench, which is thirteen 
feet wide, requires to be walled up to a height of two feet 
(see plan) and filled up to the top with soil. The soil 
best fitted for the growing of Lettuce is five parts good, 
strong, fresh loam to one part well-rotted cow dung. I 
Avill give, as nearly as I can, our manner of operating. 
The first sowing of Lettuce (which is mainly the Boston 
Market variety), made in the open ground about the 20th 
of August, will be large enough to be set in the green- 
house benches (at six or seven inches apart each way), by 
the 20th of September, and will without fire heat give 
fine heads by the first of November. For the second 
succession, sowings are still made outside about the 20th 
of September, to replant the space where the first crop 
has been cut out by the first week in November. As the 
season is now getting colder the crop planted by the first 



gree:n"houses for forcing vegetables. 77 

of November will not be fit for market until about the 
Christmas Holidays, at which time it usually sells well. 
For the third crop, to be planted in January, the plants 
made by the sowing on the 20tli of September should be 
used. This crop, which has to be grown in midwinter, 
will not be ready, if planted the first or second week in 
January, until about the first of April. 

One of the greatest pests in growing Lettut^e is the 
Green Fly or Aphis, and the remedy must be preventive, 
for if it once gets a foothold on the growing plant, it can- 
not be destroyed. From its operations being mainly on 
the under side of the leaves, nothing can reach it ; con- 
sequently every insect must be destroyed before planting. 
Tobacco in any form is destructive to it. So before 
planting let the surface of the soil be sown over with 
tobacco dust, and also let the young plants be rinsed in 
water wherein tobacco stems have been steeped long 
enough to give it the color of strong tea. By nsing these 
precautions there is little danger that the Lettuce will 
be attacked by the insect, although, as a further measure 
of precaution, it will be well to strew the paths with 
refuse tobacco stems, which will make a complete anti- 
dote against the Aphis. There is another disease often 
affecting Lettuce, with which, however, it is not so easy 
to cope. It is first seen by the leaves hardening and 
spotting brownish red, then gradually decaying towards 
the center of the plant until it partly destroys it. The 
cause seems to be anything that gives the plant a check 
— any too sudden change of temperature, too much dry- 
ness or too much moisture. There is, I think, no remedy 
after the disease has once started, so our efforts must be 
for prevention. (See page 68). 

Mr. Hudson has used some of his greenhouses for 
growing the Early Round Dark Red and the Small- 
Topped Forcing Radish, which he finds better suit- 
able for forcing than any other. These are first sown 
about the first week in October, succession soAvings being 



78 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

made on the same ground as each crop is marketed, 
which, according to the season, is from four to six weeks 
from the time of sowing, five crops usually being obtained 
by the middle of May. The seed is sown thinly in rows 
three or four inches apart, and the radishes thinned out 
when an inch high to two inches between the plants. 
After a crop of early Lettuce and Radishes has been mar- 
keted (about the middle of March), the benches are often 
planted with Snowball Cauliflower at twelve or fourteen 
inches apart each way, which is marketed about the end 
of May, or two weeks before the outdoor crop is ready. 
Another, and very often profitable, use is made of these 
forcing greenhouses by packing large clumps of roots of 
Rhubarb or Asparagus, lifted so as to leave the soil still 
adhering to the roots. These clumps can be set as close 
as they can be packed, about the middle of December, 
under the front bench, as they require no light, and will 
be found to be very profitable, the only cost being the 
roots, which can easily be raised, where ground is plenti- 
ful, in the open field, by sowing the seed in rows eighteen 
inches apart, and thinning oat to a foot between the 
plants. It requires three years, however, to grow roots 
of Rhubarb large enough to force, and four years for 
Asparagus. There are often cases where old beds must 
be removed, Avhere the roots, instead of being thrown 
away, would give, by being closely jammed together under 
a greenhouse bench, a product of about fifty cents per 
square foot, if sold any time before April. 

It is not easy to estimate the profits on such an invest- 
ment in forcing greenhouses for vegetable crops, as so 
much depends on what the market demands. Of course, 
all the products in such a market as New York are sold 
at wholesale, and not infrequently pass through several 
different hands before reaching the consumer ; but even 
thus sold, it is safe to say that, with fair average culture, 
such crops at wholesale rates will pay a clear net profit of 



GREENHOUSES FOR FORCING VEGETABLES. TO 

thirty per cent, annually ; wh'ile there is but little doubt 
tliat if the consumer could be reached direct, at least 
twice that amount could be realized. 

The bi.isiness is a particularly pleasant one, and is a great 
advantage, in all respects, over the liot-bed system, as 
one has complete control over the greenhouse tempera- 
ture, both by night and by day, if the heating and ven- 
tilating apparatus have been properl}^ constructed. These 
greenhouses are also well jJdapted for raising all kinds oi 
vegetable plants. For the past six years nearly all our 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce and Tomato plants have 
been raised in such greenhouses at far less expense than 
in tlie old-fashioned hot-beds. When the expense of hot 
water apparatus cannot be entertained, the same style of 
greenhouse can be heated by the horizontal smoke flue, 
costing little more than half as much as the hot water 
apparatus, as the latter is about one-half of the entire 
cost of the construction of such houses. 

FORCING CUCUMBERS. 

The wide greenhouses or forcing-houses, which we 
have described as being used by Mr. Hudson for forcing 
Lettuce, Kadishes and Cauliflower, can also be made 
equally available for forcing Cucumbers, either during 
the entire winter and spring season, or to be used to suc- 
ceed the last crops of Radishes or Lettuce in spring. If 
wanted for the forcing of Cucumbers during the fall sea- 
son, the seed should be sown in the greenhouse about 
October 1st in small pots, three or four seeds in each, 
thinning out to one strong plant. These, in thirty days, 
will have become sufficiently strong to plant out at twenty 
to twenty-four inches apart on the south side of the 
bench, one row only. A trellis of galvanized iron wire 
is marie with about a nine-inch mesh, diamond shaped. 
This, on the middle bench, should be kept two feet from 
the glass, but on the front bench it can only be kept one 



80 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

foot from the glass, owing *to its nearness to the sashes. 
The depth of soil should be, if on raised wooden benches, 
about five or six inches; if on the solid center bed, eighteen 
inches to two feet. The soil should be a sandy loam, with 
one-fifth well-rotted cow manure. The night tempera- 
ture in the forcing-house for the fall, winter and spring 
months for cucumbers, should range as near as possible 
from sixty to sixty-five degrees, with a temperature on 
bright days of from ten to fifteen degrees higher, giving 
ventilation at all reasonable times. Cucumbers delis'ht 
in a moist atmosphere, and whenever the weather is 
bright and clear, water should be sprinkled on the pipes, 
walks and under the benches. A dry atmosphere is cer- 
tain to develop the Red Spider, which is fatal to success. 
It may also be here stated, — if Cucumbers are to be; 
forced during the winter months, that to keep up the 
necessary high temperature eight runs of four-inch pipes 
will be required in a greenhouse twenty feet wide, instead 
of six, as recommended for Lettuce and Radishes, though, 
when grown only to succeed the Lettuce or Radish crop 
in spring, which is usually the case, the six runs of 
pipes at that season will be sufficient. " 

Although there is no necessity for artificial impregna- 
tion of the Cucumber flowers when grown in the open 
air, where the insects and winds do the work, yet, when 
grown in the forcing-house, it is absolutely necessary, 
particularly in midwinter. This is best done with a 
camel's hair pencil, by detaching the pollen, or fertilizing 
dust, fl'om the stamens and applying it to the stigma. It 
will also facilitate impregnation on bright days to slightly 
jar the wire trellis, so as to let the pollen loose, which, 
in floating through the air, fastens on the stigma. Cu- 
cumbers from seed sown in October will give a continu- 
ous crop until June — of course, if well handled. When 
wanted only to succeed crops of Lettuce or Radishes in 
spring, the seed should not be sown until February or 



GREENHOUSES FOR FORCIXQ VEGETABLES. 81 

March. The variety for forcing which seems to be most 
favorably received in our markets is '* Selected Early White 
Spine," though, of late years, the beautiful long- kinds, 
such as '^ Telegraph " and '' Rambler," Avhich are almost 
exclusively used in Europe, are beginning to be favorably 
received. Forced Cucumbers from December to May 
average, for best quality in the market of New York, 
$6 per dozen, and, if the forcing is well done, this price 
will be found to pay very well. Southern competition, 
of course, seriously interferes with the forcing of cucum- 
bers, as it does with nearly everything else in early vege- 
tables and fruits ; but, like hot-house grapes, the bloom 
and fine appearance, together with the m.ore delicate 
flavor, of the forced Cucumber, finds customers in all 
large cities who are willing to pay for the finer quality. 

FORCING STRAWBERRIES. 

The wide greenhouses, already described as being suit- 
able for forcing Lettuce and Radishes or Cucumbers, are 
equally adapted, with slight modification, for the forcing 
of Strawberries. This modification is in havino- the 
benches or tables raised, so as to be as near the glass as it 
is practicable to have them, as shown by the sketch, fig- 
ure 13, of end section annexed. It is also necessary that 
eight runs of four-inch pipe are used instead of six, as 
are in use for Lettuce and Radishes, as Strawberries re- 
quire a somewhat higher temperature. The proper 
preparation of the plants for Strawberry forcing is indis- 
pensable to success. This is best done by layering the 
runners in small pots, as described under the head of 
Strawberry Culture. The layers may be placed in the 
pots at any time from the middle of July to September 
1st. When the pot is filled with roots (wh.ich will be in 
about two or three weeks from the time the Strawberry 
runner is placed in it), it is then taken uj) and shifted 
into a four-inch pot in soil four-fifths turfy loam to one- 



82 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

fifth rotted cow dung, to which may be added a slight 
sprinkling of pure bone dust — say a handful to every 
bushel of soil. 

When the strawberry plants have been shifted from the 
pots in which they were layered into the four-inch size, 
they should be set in the open sunshine, standing the 
pots close together, and carefully watered as occasion re- 
quires, so as to induce the best possible growth. All 
runners should be carefully pinched off as they appear, 
so that the whole force of the roots may go to develop 
the main plant, or fruiting crown, as it is sometimes 
called. In four or five weeks the four-inch pots will be 
filled with roots, and the plants must again be shifted 
into six-inch pots and treated as before, which will give, 
by the middle of October, the necessary strong plants 
for forcing. As the season of growth stops about this 
date, water should be withheld to some extent, so that 
the plants may get a season of rest. 

When they are placed in the forcing-house they may 
either be planted out on the benches at six or eight inches 
apart, in soil five or six inches deep, or they may be 
forced in the pots, as may be desired, but, in any case, 
twice as many plants should be prepared as will fill the 
house, for, if desired, two crops can easily be raised in 
succession. The first plants should be placed in the 
forcing-house about November 1st ; these will produce 
marketable fruit by January or February. Plants put in 
in February will be ready by March or April. Of course, 
it will be necessary to keep the reserve plants of straw- 
berries in a dormant state, which is best done in cold 
frames or pits, the pots being plunged up to the rims in 
dry leaves. 

The best rule to follow in forcing any plant, is to keep 
as near as possible to its natural condition. We know 
that as the Strawberry plant develops its leaves and flow- 
ers throughout May in this latitude in the open ground. 



GREENHOUSES FOR FORCING VEGETABLES. 83 

that the night temperature will average, perhaps, forty- 
degrees for the first two weeks in May and fifty degrees 
for the last weeks, while for the first two weeks in June 
it will be about sixty degrees at night, and in all cases 
from ten to fifteen degrees higher in the day. This, 
then, is our rule for the forcing-liouses : Start slowly, 
increasing the temperature as the plant develops and 
ripens its fruit, just as nature does in the field: 

Like Cucumbers, artificial impregnation is necessary 
for the Strawberry in the dull winter months. This is 
best done by using a camel's hair pencil, twirling it from 
one flower to another — particularly from the staminate to 
the pistillate flowers — on clear days if possible, and allow- 
ing all possible ventilation. Sometimes hives of bees are 
kept in Strawberry and Cucumber forcing-houses, to 
assist in the impregnation. 

Some judgment is necessary in watering until there 
are indications of vigorous growth. Water at the roots 
sparingly ; at the same time, do not allow the soil to get 
too dry, and be careful not to water the plants overhead 
when in bloom, as that will destroy the impregnation. 
When the fruit has *^set," give water freely whenever 
necessary, and throughout the whole season of growth 
keep the atmosphere of the house well charged with 
moisture, in order to keep down the Red Spider, the in- 
sect which is quickly destructive to both Strawberries 
and Cucumbers. 

The kinds of Strawberries which seem to have been the 
favorites for forcing are the Champion, a rather dark 
crimson berry of great beauty and of the largest size, 
with occasional trials of Jersey Queen, on account of the 
great size and beauty of the fruit. But the new variety, 
raised by Mr. Seymour, of Norwalk, Conn. , and named 
in our honor, ^^ The Henderson," from trials made with 
it, is likely to prove the most valuable variety for forcing 
purposes. It has what are known as ^ ^ perfect flowers," and 



84: GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

hence is certain to " set " fruit. It is of the largest size, 
of beautiful form ; color, a rich shade of scarlet crimson, 
the surface looking as if varnished. In flavor it is un- 
surpassed by any known variety, besides having a rich 
and powerful aroma ; these peculiarities make it specially 
attractive — a necessity for forced strawberries when re- 
tailed at about fifty cents a berry, for in the winter 
months, it must be remembered, they sell at wholesale 
at $6 per quart, and it takes only eighteen to twenty large 
berries to make a quart. 

To our rural readers this extraordinary price paid for 
fruit may seem incredible, but all large cities contain 
people who are rich enough to afford these prices, not 
only for fruits but for flowers, for it is no unusual thing 
for $1 and even $2 to be paid for single rosebuds of the 
rarer or finer sorts. At the same date that forced Straw- 
berries are selling in New York at $6 per quart, or forced 
Cucumbers at $6 per dozen, both Strawberries and Cu- 
cumbers grown in the Southern States, are selling at one- 
sixth these prices, but the quality, of course, bears no 
comparison with the forced commodities. We have never 
ourselves forced either Strawberries or Cucumbers for 
market, but quite a number in the vicinity of large cities 
make it a profitable business. In fact, there is compara- 
tively little difference in ihe profits of forcing-houses, no 
matter whether they are devoted to growing vegetables, 
fruits or flowers ; they pay well for the investment in all 
cases if the work is well done. 

HEATING BY FLUES. 

For beginners with small means, when personal atten- 
tion can be given to the fires, by heating greenhouses 
with flues a great saving in cost can be made— in fact, 
nearly half the cost of construction ; for we find that the 
hot water heating apparatus is usually half the cost of 
ordinary commercial greenhouses, while if heated by flues 



I 



FOllCIXO-PIT.S OU GRKKXTIOrSE.'^. 85 

the cost of these would not be more than ten per cent, of 
the whole. A new method of constructing flues (or rather 
a revived method, for it originated in 1822,) has been in 
use for the past few years, which has such manifest ad- 
vantages that many now use it who would no doubt other- 
wise have used hot water heating. Its peculiarity consists 
in running the flue back to the furnace from which it 
starts and into the chimney, which is built on the top of 
the furnace. As soon as the fire is lighted in the furnace, 
the brick-Avork forming the arch gets heated, and at once 
starts an upward draft, driving out the cold air from the 
chimney, which puts the smoke flue into immediate action 
and maintains it ; hence chere is never any trouble about 
the draft, as in ordinary flues wdiich have the chimney at 
the most distant point from the furnace. 

By this plan, we not only get rid of the violent heat 
given out by the furnace, but at the same time it insures 
a complete draft, so that the heated air from the furnace 
is so rapidly carried through the entire length of the flue 
that it is nearly as hot when it enters the chimney as 
when it left the furnace. This perfect draft also does 
away with all danger of the escape of gas from the flues 
into the greenhouse, which often happens when the draft 
is not active. Although no system of heating by smoke 
flues is so satisfactory as by hot water, yet there are hun- 
dreds who have neither the means nor the inclination to 
go to the greater expense of hot Avater heating, and to 
such this revived method is one that will, to a great ex- 
tent, simplify and cheapen the erection of greenhouses. 
Many old-established florists, who have had the old plan 
of flues in use, have changed them to the one here de- 
scribed, and with great satisfaction. The wonder is that 
such an important fact has been so long OA^erlooked, for 
at the time it was discovered, heating greenhouses by flues 
was almost the only method in use. 

Figure 12 (scale, one-eighth of an inch to the foot), 



86 



GARDEXIXG FOlt PROFIT. 




Fig. 12.— HOUSE HEA.TED BY FLUE. 



FOP.CIXG-PITS OR GREENHOUSES. 



shows a greenhouse twenty feet wide by fifty feet long, 
with furnace-room, or shed, ten by twenty feet. Here 
the flues are so disposed as to avoid crossing the walks, 
being placed under the center bench, but as near as pos- 
sible to the walk on each side, so that the heat may be 
evenly diffused throughout. If a difference in tempera- 
ture is required in a house of this kind, it may be obtained 
by running a glass i^artition across the hou-se, say at 
twenty-five feet from the furnace end, which will, of 
course, make the latter end the hottest. It will be 




Fig. 13. — END-SECTION. 

observed that the plan (figure 12) shows by dotted lines 
this new or revived plan of fine heating. Figure 13 (the 
same scale) is a section, showing the arrangement of the 
benches, etc. 

In constructing the furnace for fine heating, the size 
of the furnace doors should be, for a greenhouse twenty 
by fifty, about fourteen inches square, and the length of 
the furnace bars thirty inches ; the furnace should be 
arched over, and the top of the inside of the arch should 
be about twenty inches from the bars. The flue will 
always '^draw" better if slightly on the ascent through- 
out its entire length. It should be elevated, in all cases, 
from the ground on flags or bricks, so that its heat may 
be given out on all sides. The inside measure of the 
brick flue should not be less than eidit bv fourteen 



88 (JAIIDEXIXG FOR I'KOFIT. 

inches. If tiles can be conveniently procured, they are 
best to cover with ; but, if not, the top of the flue may 
be contracted to six inches, and covered with bricks. 

After the flue has been built of brick to twenty-flve or 
thirty feet from the furnace, cement or vitrified drain 
pipe, eight or nine inches in diameter, should be used, as 
they are not only cheaper, but radiate the heat quicker 
than the bricks ; they are also much easier constructed 
and cleaned. Care should be taken that no wood-work is 
in contact with the flue at any place. It may be taken 
as a safe rule that wood-work should in no case be nearer 
the flue or furnace than eight inches. In constructing 
do not be influenced by what the mechanics will tell you, 
as few of them have had any experience in such matters, 
and are not able to judge of the dangers resulting from 
wood-work being in close contact with the heated bricks. 

The cost of such a greenhouse, twenty by fifty feet, 
heated by flue, when built alone, would be, at present 
prices in this vicinity, about $12 per running foot, or 
$600 ; but if three were built together, connected at the 
gutters, and thus save the outer walls, as shown in the 
chapter on Forcing Pits and Greenhouses in another part 
of this book, the cost of construction for three houses 
heated by smoke flues would not exceed $10 per running 
foot, or $1,500 for three houses each twenty by fifty feet. 



SEEDS AND SEED RAISIXG. 89 

CHAPTER XI. 
SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 

If there is one tiling of paramount importance in veg- 
etable gardening it is purity of seed ; and for this reason 
the seed oifered by seedsmen should be tested jiot only 
for its germinating qualities, but for its genuineness of 
kind. The test of germination is easy enough, and there 
is rarely any trouble with that ; but to be certain that 
the variety is true to its kind, is a matter requiring time 
and a knowledge of varieties. 

In our own practice no important seeds, such as Melons, 
Cucumbers, Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Lettuce, Celery, Rad- 
ishes or Beets, are ever sold until tested in our Trial 
Grounds, consequently they are never sold until they are 
a year old, or after we have had an opportunity to prove, 
beyond any question, that they are genuine or true to their 
kinds. But as all these seeds are just as good four or 
five years old — some of them really better — this want of 
*^ freshness," as some might term it, is no disadvantage 
whatever. It is quite a common practice for market 
gardeners to purchase from us, when they are pleased 
with some special strain of seed, as much of it as they 
will use for three years, so as to be certain beyond doubt 
that they have the kind they want. 

Thirty years ago the market gardeners grew nearly all 
their own seeds, as in those days we had hardly any 
seedsmen that knew anything about varieties, and conse- 
quently the market gardeners dared not risk their crops 
in buying from them. I remember on one occasion the 
seed crop of our indispensable Wakefield Cabbage failed 
with nearly all of us. There was only one man among 
us who had had foresight enough to have a two years' 
supply ; I offered him $50 jier pound, but could not pro- 



90 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

cure an ounce from him, and as no one cared to risk the 
seed stores in those days for Wakefield Cabbage seed, he 
had the whole field to himself. He planted nearly ten 
acres with this variety, which coming in some eight or 
ten days earlier than anything else, he made a little for- 
tune by his being able to have a monopoly of the seed. 
That is now over thirty years ago, but I have never 
known a Jersey gardener to be out of Wakefield Cabbage 
seed since, and not know where to get it. Before we 
adopted the system of proving seeds in our Trial Grounds, 
we often suffered severe losses. I remember once getting 
from one of my neighbors — a market gardener — a pound 
of what he honestly thought was Silesia Lettuce, but 
winch proved to be Curled India. I used it for planting 
in my forcing-frames, which resulted in nearly an entire 
loss of the crop. The India Lettuce is a summer variety, 
maturing in the hottest weather, and consequently almost 
useless for forcing. This blunder entailed on me a loss 
of over a thousand dollars. A year or two ago, we im- 
ported from England 500 pounds of one of the leading 
kinds of Celery, from a source that in twenty years had 
always proved to be correct. Our Trial Ground test 
showed it to be worthless, as it was lank growing and 
hollow stemmed ; had we not put it through the crucial 
test of our Trial Grounds, we would have spread serious 
disaster among hundreds of our market garden cus- 
tomers. 

There is but little new to say of the manner of raising 
seeds ; the importance of selecting the purest specimens 
of each variety, and of keeping plants that are of the 
same families apart as far distant as the limits of the 
ground will admit, is now well understood. It is not 
practicable, however, to raise all the seeds wanted in our 
vegetable gardens in our climate, and consequently we 
have to rely on importation for seeds of Broccoli, Cauli- 
flower, some varieties of Cabbage, Radishes, Peas, etc. 



SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 91 

But the great majority of seeds used are raised here, our 
climate beiug particularly well adapted for maturing 
them. In the raising of market vegetables, near large 
cities, the usual practice is for each grower to grow only 
a few varieties, and these of the sorts most profitable to 
his location or soil. For example, we of New Jersey, in 
the immediate vicinity of JS^evv York, grow Beets, Cab- 
bages, Cauliflowers, Cucumbers, Lettuce, RadJshes and 
Turnips as a first crop, followed by Celery, Thyme, 
Sage, Broccoli and late Cabbage as a second crop ; but in 
the more southern counties of the State, where crops ma- 
ture ten or twelve days earlier, but the distance greater 
from market, the bulkier and cheaper articles are not 
grown, and only the more portable and (when early) 
valuable kinds are raised, of which Tomatoes, Melons, 
Peas, Kidney Beans, Early Turnips and Beets are the 
staple articles. 

Seed gro-wing, as practiced by market gardeners, is on 
much too small a scale to make it profitable ; in fact, 
there is hardly a seed raised, but costs much more than 
what it can be purchased for from the seedsmen. Seeds- 
men are supplied by regular seed growers, who make a 
special business of it ; they are located in nearly every 
State in the Union, as the proper geogra23hical distribu- 
tion of where seeds are grown, is found to be of the first 
importance ; tropical seeds, such as Melons, Cucum- 
bers, Egg plants, and Tomatoes, doiDg better in higher 
temperatures, while Cabbages, Peas, etc., do better in 
colder latitudes. California is becoming an important 
seed growing State, its climatic conditions being favor- 
able for nearly all kinds of seeds. Seed growers, as a 
whole, are a highly responsible class of men, who thor- 
oughly understand the business, and are now successfully 
competing with the English and French growers, from 
whom, only a few years ago, nearly all our seeds were 
imported. By being able to get the seeds grown in our 



92 GAUDEXIXG FOn PROFIT. 

own country, we are able to supervise the growing of 
them, and, consequently, the risk of error in getting 
spurious or inferior varieties is now very small indeed. 
Hence there is now no necessity for the market gardeners 
to grow their own seeds, when they can be confident of 
getting what they want from the seedsman at half the 
price at which they can be grown by the market gardener; 
for while the seedsman contracts for tons, raised with 
all the appliances for saving seed in the best man- 
ner, the market gardener can only grow a few pounds 
on his usually limited area. As a result of the mar- 
ket gardeners growing their own seeds, may be mentioned 
the fact that the Chinese gardeners in California, by 
reason of saving their own seeds, have let varieties so run 
down as to be hardly recognizable as the best types as 
now grown by our best Eastern market gardeners. How- 
ever, no gardener should risk ]iis crop without testing 
the seed, unless he has implicit confidence in the source 
from whence it has been purchased. 

It will be understood that of all annual plants, such 
as Beans, Corn, Cucumbers, Egg Plants, Lettuce, 
Melons, Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, etc., the seed is 
saved the season of planting, and should be always taken 
from those first maturing, if earliness is an object. The 
seeds of biennial vegetables, such as Beets, Carrots, 
Celery, Cabbages, Onions, Leeks, Parsley, Parsnips, etc., 
are raised by selecting the best specimens from those 
preserved over winter, planting them out in good soil on 
the opening of spring, at distances such as are recom- 
mended for their growing. 

Duration of Germination in Seeds. — There are 
very few seeds that will not germinate as freely the 
second year as the first, if properly kept in a cool place, 
and not exposed to either a too drying or too damp an 
atmosphere. With the exception of Parsnips, Onions 
and Leeks, I would just as confidently sow seed two 



SEEDS AND SEED-RAISING. 03 

years old as when fresh gathered ; but there is a limit 
to the vitality of seeds, varying much in the diSercnt 
families. 

Among those only safe for two years are : Beana and 
Peas of all kinds, Peppers, Carrot, Corn, Egg Plant, 
Okra, Salsify, Thyme, Sage, and Rhubarb. 

Those safe for three years : Asparagus, Endive, Let- 
tuce, Parsley, Spinach, and Radish. 

Those safe for five years : Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab- 
bage, Celery, and Turnip. 

Those possessing the greatest vitality are : Beet, Cu- 
cumber, Melon, Pumpkin, Squash, and Tomato ; the 
time ranging from six to ten years. 

Market gardeners find this knowledge very valuable ; 
for example, in procuring the stock of a seed known to 
be good, of a variety that does not seed the season it is 
marketable, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, or 
Celery, we procure enough to last at least two seasons. 
The first season only a little is sown, to test the merit of 
the variety, for we are never incautious enough to risk 
a full crop with one experiment. If it proves valuable, 
we have enough in reserve to sow for a full crop, know- 
ing that it is sure to germinate. This was particularly 
the case with our New Dwarf Celery. On the recommen- 
dation of a friend I imported ten pounds of the seed, 
but, doubtful of kow it would suit our market, only as 
much was sow^n as would furnish a few hundred plants. 
These showed so much superiority, in all respects, to 
the tall varieties that we had been growing, that the 
following season T put in half my crop with the dwarf 
seed. The thing was entirely new in our market, and so 
much superior that it sold for prices that would seem 
incredible. My ten pound bag was not half exhausted, 
and the next season I jilanted my whole crop, fourteen 
acres, containing nearly half a million roots, and made 



94 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

one of the best hits I ever made in gardening. But by 
this time my neighbors began to take an unusual interest 
in my Celery crop, and I could monopolize the variety 
no longer. The originator of our New White Plume 
Celery, which will be described elsewhere, made an 
equally good hit before his neighbors waked up to the 
importance of its merits. 

A frequent source of complaint is the fact of seeds 
failing to germinate during long continued dry weather, 
and it is very important that the gardener should always 
apply common-sense to his work, and not simply follow 
routine, for what will suit for one condition of soil or 
atmosphere would be unnecessary, or even wrong, for 
another. I will give a case to illustrate. About the 
fifth of May of 1871, I sowed a large patch of open 
ground with Celery seed, and another with Cabbage 
seed. The soil was in tine order, and the beds, after 
sowing, were raked — the Celery with a fine steel rake, 
the Cabbage with a large wooden rake, which covered 
the seed of each to the regular depth. The weather was 
dry, with indications of its continuing so, and after sow- 
ing I had both the Cabbage and Celery beds rolled 
heavily, leaving, however, a strip of each unrolled, so 
that I could clearly show to some of my young men what 
the result of this omission would be if dry weather con- 
tinued. Had a heavy rain fallen within a day or two 
after sowing, it would have compacted the soil and pro- 
duced the effect of rolling it. But we had no rain for 
three or four weeks, and a burning-hot atmosphere, pass- 
ing through the shallow, loose covering of the seeds, 
shriveled and dried them up so that it was impossible 
they could ever germinate. This little experiment re- 
sulted exactly as any one having experience in seed-sow- 
ing knew it must ; our crop of Celery and Cabbage 
plants were as fine as need be on the rolled bed, while 
not one seed in a thousand of the CeieiYy and not one in 



SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 95 

a hundred of the Cabbage started in the strips where the 
soil was left loose. 

In the sowing of Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce in 
September, the same precaution had better be used. 
But in small beds, such as are usually taken for these, if 
a roller is not at hand, after raking the beds the soil 
should be firmly patted with the back of the spade ; this 
not only produces quicker and more certain germination, 
but it leaves the surface of the bed smooth, so that the 
plants come up straighter than if the beds were left 
rough. We consider the practice of soaking seeds worse 
than useless. For fuller instructions on this, one of 
the most important of all garden o^ierations, see Chapter 
on the ^^Uee of the Feet in Sowing and Planting." 
The greater part of this chapter has been already pub- 
lished in my book, entitled ^^How the Farm Pays," as 
well as portions of it in some of our seed catalogues. 
Believing it is of vital importance, I think it cannot 
be too often repeated. I have been writing on Horti- 
culture for nearly forty years, but I consider that T have 
benefited the farmers and g-ardeners of the United States 
more by the instructions given in the ^' Use of the Feet 
in Sowing and Planting," than by any other article I 
have ever written. 



96 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



CHAPTER XII. 



THE USE OF THE FEET IN SOWING AND PLANTING. 



[Read before the National Association of Nurserymen, held at Cleveland, O., 
by Peter Henderson.] 

It may be useless to throw out any suggestions in rela- 
tion to horticultural operations to such a body of prac- 
tical men as is now before me. Yet I candidly admit 
that, although I have been extensively engaged in gar- 
dening operations for over a quarter of a century, I did 
not fully realize, until a few years ago, the full impor- 
tance of how indispensable it was to use the feet in the 
operations of sowing and planting. 

For some years past I have, in writing on gardening 
matters, insisted upon the great importance of '* firming " 
the soil over the seeds after sowing, especially when the 
soil is dry, or likely to become so. I know of no oper- 
ation of more importance in either the farm or garden, 
and I trust that what I am about to say will be read and 
remembered by every one not yet aware of the vast im- 
portance of the practice. I say *^vast importance,"" for 
the loss to the agricultural and horticultural community 
from the habit of loosely sowing seeds or setting out 
plants in hot and dry soils, is of a magnitude which few 
will believe until they have witnessed it ; and it is a 
loss all the more to be regretted, when we know that by 
^' firming" the soil around the seed or plant, there is, in 
most cases, a certain preventive. 

Particularly in the sowing of seeds, I consider the 
matter of such great importance that it cannot be too 
often or too strongly told ; for the loss to the agricultural 
and horticultural community by the neglect of the 
simple operation of firming the soil around the seed 



USE OF THE FEET IN SOWING AND PLANTING. 97 

must amount to many millions annually. For the mis- 
chief done is not confined only to the less important 
garden operations, but even Corn, Cotton, AVheat, Tur- 
nips and other important crops of the farm often fail, 
in hot and dry soils, by being sown without being firmed 
sufficiently to prevent the dry air shriveling or drying 
the seeds. Of course, the use of the feet is impractic- 
able in firming seeds on the farm, but a heavy roller, 
applied after sowing, is an absolute necessity under cer- 
tain conditions of the soil, to insure perfect germination. 
From the middle of April to nearly the end of May of 
this year, in many sections of the country, there was 
little or no rain. Such was particularly the case in the 
vicinity of New York City, where we have hundreds of 
market gardeners, who cultivate thousands of acres of 
Cabbage, Cauliflower and Celery, but the ^' dry spring '' 
has played sad havoc with their seed-beds. Celery is 
not one-fourth of a crop, and Cabbage and Cauliflower 
hardly half, and this failure is due to no other cause than 
that they persist in sowing their seeds without even tak- 
ing the precaution to firm the soil by rolling. 

We sow annually about four acres of Celery, Cabbage 
and Cauliflower plants, which produce probably five 
millions in number, and which we never fail to sell 
mostly in our immediate neighborhood to the market 
gardeners, who have, many of them, even better facil- 
ities than we have for raising these plants, if they would 
only do as we do, firm the seed after sowing, which is 
done thus : 

After plowing, harrowing and leveling the land 
smoothly, lines are drawn by the '' marker," which 
makes furrows about two inches deep and a foot apart ; 
after the man who sows the seed follows another, who, 
with the ball of the right foot, presses down his full 
weight on every inch of soil in the drill where the seed 
has been sown ; the rows are then lightly leveled longi- 



98 GAKDENIJ^G FOK PROFIT. 

tndinally with the rake, a light roller is passed ovoi 
them, and the operation is done. 

By this method our crop has neyer once fai!e:l, and 
what is true of Celery and Cahbage seed is neai-ly as true 
of all other seeds requiring to be sown during the late 
spring or summer months. 

On July 2d of 1874, as an experiment, I sowed twelve 
rows of Sweet Corn and twelve rows of Beets, treadins: 
in, after sowing, every alternate row of each. In both 
cases, those trodden in came up in four days, while those 
nnfirmed remained twelve days before starting, and 
would not then have germinated had not rain fallen, for 
the soil was as dry as dust when the seed was sown. 

The result was that the seeds that had been trodden 
in grew freely from the start, and matured their crops 
to a marketable condition by fall ; while the rows un- 
firmed did not mature, as they were not only eight days 
later in germinating, but the plants were also, to some 
extent, enfeebled by being partially dried in the loose, 
dry soil. 

This experiment was a most useful one, for it proved 
that a corn crop, sown in the vicinity of New York as 
late as July 2d, could be made to produce '^roasting 
ears" in October, when they never fail to sell freely at 
high rates, but the crop would not mature unless the 
seed germinated at once, and which would never bo cer- 
tain at that dry and hot season, unless by this metho 1. 

The same season, in August, I treated seeds of Tur- 
nips and Spinach in the same way. Those trodden in ger- 
minated at once and made an excellent crop, while those 
unfirmed germinated feebly, and were eventually nearly 
all burned out by a continuance of dry, hot air penetrat- 
ing through the loose soil to the tender rootlets. 

I beg to caution the inexperienced, however, by no 
means to tread or roll in seed if the ground is not dry. 
The soil may often be in a suitable condition to sow. 



USE OF THE FEET IK SOWIN"G AND PLANTIN^G. 99 

and yet may be too damp to be trodden upon or rolled. 
In such cases these operations may not be necessarj' at 
all. for if rainy weather ensue, the seeds will germinate 
of course ; but if there is any lilvelihood of a continued 
drouth, the treading or rolling may be done a week or 
more after the seed has been sown, if tliere is any reason 
to believe that it may suffer from the dry, hot air. An- 
other -very important advantage gained by treading in 
the seed is, that when we have crops of Beets, Celery, 
Turnips, Spinach, or anything else that is sown in rows, 
the seeds to form the crop come up at once ; while the 
seeds of the weeds, that are just as liable to perish by the 
lieat as are those of the crop, are retarded. Such of the 
weed seeds as lie in the space between the rows where the 
soil is loose will not germinate as quickly as those of the 
crop sown ; and hence we can cultivate between the rows 
before the weeds germinate at all. 

Of course, this rule of treading in or firming seeds 
after sowing, must not be blindly followed. Very early 
in spring or late in fall, when the soil is damp and there 
is no danger from heated, dry air, there is no necessity 
for doing so. 

Now, if firming the soil around seed, to protect it 
from the influence of a dry and hot atmosphere, is a 
necessity, it is obvious that it is more so in the case of 
plants whose rootlets are even more sensitive to such in- 
fluence than the dormant seel. 

Experienced professional horticulturists, however, are 
less likely to neglect this than to neglect in the case of 
seeds, for the damage from such neglect is easier to be 
seen, and hence better understood, by the practical 
nurseryman ; but with the inexperienced amateur the 
case is different. When he receives his package of trees 
or plants from the nurseryman, he handles thorn as if 
they were glass, every broken twig or root c.ills fortn a 
complaint, and he proceeds to plant them, gingerly 



100 GARDENI-fiTG FOR PllOriT. 

straightening out each root and sifting the soil aronnd 
them, but be would no more stamp down that soil than 
he would stamp on the soil of bis mother's grave. So 
the plant, in nine cases out of ten, is left loose and 
wabbliug ; the dry air penetrates through the soil to its 
roots ; the winds shake it ; it shrivels up and fails to 
grow ; and then come the anathemas on the head of the 
unfortunate nurseryman, who is charged with selling 
him dead trees or plants. 

About a month ago I sent a package of a dozen roses 
by mail to a lady in Savannah. She wrote me a woful 
story last week, saying that, though the roses had 
arrived seemingly all right, they had all died but one, 
and what Avas very singular, she said, the one that lived 
was the one tha,t Mr. Jones had stepped on, and which 
she had thought sure was crushed to death, for Mr. 
Jones weighs 200 pounds. Now, though I do not advise 
any gentleman of 200 pounds putting his brogan on the 
top of a tender rose plant, as a practice conducive to its 
health, yet, if Mrs. Jones could have allowed her weighty 
lord to press the soil against the root of each of her 
dozen roses, I much doubt if she would now have to 
mourn their loss. 

It has often been a wonder to many of us, who have 
been workers in the soil for a generation, how some of 
the simplest methods of culture have not been practiced 
until we were nearly done with life's work. 

There are few of us but have had such experience ; 
personally, I must say that I never pass through a year 
but I am confounded to find that some operation cannot 
only be done quicker, but done better, than we have 
been in the habit of doing it. 

These improvements loom up from various causes, but 
mainly from suggestions thrown out by our employees in 
charge of special departments, a system which we do all 
in our power to encourage. 



USE OF THE FEET IX SOWING AND PLANTING. 101 

As a proof of the value of such improvemeuts which 
have led to simplifying our operations, I will state the 
fact that though my area of greenhouse surface is now 
more than double that which it was in 1870, and the 
land used in our florist's business is one-third more, the 
number of hands employed is less now than in 1870, and 
yet, at the same time, the quality of our stock is vastly 
better- now than then. 

Whether it is the higher price of labor in this country 
that forces us into labor-saving expedients, or the inter- 
change of opinions from the greater number of nation- 
alities centering here, that gives us broader views of cul- 
ture, I am not prepared to state ; but that America is 
now selling nearly all the products of the greenhouse, 
garden, nursery and farm lower than is done in Europe, 
admits of no question ; and if my homely suggestions in 
this matter of firming the soil around newly planted 
seeds or plants will in any degree assist us in still holding 
to the front, I shall be gratified. 

In the summer of 1886 I had a visit from one of the 
market gardeners of Norfolk, Va., who told me that he 
annually grows fifty acres of Spinach, but that often by 
dry weather in autumn, only a partial crop was obtained, 
owing to the failure of the seed to germinate. I asked 
him if he trod in the seed with the feet ; he said no, that 
it would be quite a big job to tread in rows at one foot 
apart on an area of fifty acres. A little calculation 
showed that it could be done for less than 150, and when 
it is known that a good croj) of Spinach grown in Nor- 
folk will sell in the markets of New York for at least 
$300 an acre, it will readily be seen that it would hardly 
be worth while to withhold $1 per acre extra labor, if it 
would, as it undoubtedly would in many cases, secure a 
crop. Seedsmen have more complaint of Spinach seed 
failing to germinate than perhaps anything else, as it has 
usually to be sown in hot, dry weather, but failure would 



102 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

rarely occur if after sowing the seed the soil was carefully 
pressed down with the feet. 

It was rather an amusing incident that first brought 
to the attention of a truck farmer of Charleston, S. C, 
the importance of firming the soil. It seems that a gen- 
tleman of color, having the constitutional weakness for 
chickens peculiar to some of his race, got into a hen 
roost and helped himself bountifully. In evading the 
highroad, he struck a bee-line through a newly-sown 
Turnip field, where he left tracks that led to his detec- 
tion. But these tracks did more. They showed to 
Squire Buncombe, whose chickens had suffered, that 
wherever the foot of the colored citizen had fallen, there 
he had a " stand" of Turnips and nowhere else (for tliey 
had been loosely sown and the weather was dry). The 
lesson shot home and has been worth tens of thousands 
of dollars to the farmers of South Carolina, who, it 
seems, were never before sufficiently alive to the impor- 
tance of firming the soil until the unfortunate negro 
showed them the way. The Avorld has often raised mon- 
uments to men who have done far less to benefit their 
fellows than this poor negro unconsciously did for the 
farmers of ]S[orth Carolina. 



HOW, WHE2N AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 103 

CHAPTER XIII. 
HOW, WHEN AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 

As seed sowing is the starting point of cropping, a 
thorough knowledge of the conditions necessary for tiie 
germination of the different varieties will go far towards 
putting the tyro in gardening well on the way to success. 
The very general want of knowledge in this matter is too 
often the cause of much undeserved censure upon the 
seedsman, for in nine cases out of ten the failure is not 
with the seeds, but results from the time or manner of 
sowing. When the owner of a garden sends his order 
for seeds to the seedsman, it is generally a complete list 
of all he wants for the season. They are received, and 
the interesting operation of sowing is begun : first in a 
hot bed, if he has one, often as early as the first week in 
February (whicli in the latitude of New York is a month 
too soon), and in go indiscriminately, at the same date 
and under the same sash, his seeds of Cabbage, Cauli- 
flower, Lettuce, and Egg Plant, Peppers and Tomatoes. 
Yet even in the waning heat of this early hot-bed, where 
a thermometer would possibly not indicate more than 
fifty degrees, he finds in a week or so his Cabbage, Let- 
tuce, and Cauliflower '^coming through" nicely, but as 
yet no Egg Plants, Peppers, or Tomatoes. He impatiently 
waits another week, makes an examination, and discovers 
that instead of his Tomatoes and Egg Plants beginning 
to vegetate, they are commencing to rot. It is now plain 
to him that he has been cheated ; he has been sold old 
seed, and if he does nothing worse, he forever after looks 
upon the seedsman he has patronized as a venal wretch, 
destitute of principle and honesty. But he must have 



10-i GAKDEN^IXG FOK PROFIT. 

Tomatoes, Peppers, and Egg Plants, and he buys again, 
but this time from another seedsman, warranted honest. 
He renews his hot-bed — it is now a month later, and a 
bright March sun, with milder nights, give him the 
proper temperature in his hot-bed (seventy or eighty de- 
grees) — and his eyes are at last gladdened by the sprout- 
ing of the troubleeome seed. April comes with warm 
sunshine, inviting him to begin to ^'make garden" out- 
side. He has yet the balance of the original lot of seeds 
that he bought in February. But as he is still entirely 
befogged about the cause of his failure in the first hot- 
bed, he begins his open ground operations with little 
confidence in his seeds, but as he has got them, they may 
as well be tried. And again he sows, on the same day, his 
Peas and Lima Beans, Eadishes and Pumpkins, Onions 
and Sweet Corn. Hardy and tender get the same treat- 
ment. The result must of necessity be the same as it 
was in the hot-bed ; the hardy seeds duly vegetate, while 
the tender are of course rotted. This time he is not sur- 
prised, for he is already convinced that seedsman No. 1 
is a rascal, and only wonders how any of his seeds grew 
at all, so he again orders from seedsman No. 2 for the 
articles that have failed. Here circumstances continue 
to favor the latter, for by this time the season has ad- 
vanced in its temperature, and the seeds duly vegetate. 
Every experienced farmer knows that in this latitude he 
can sow Oats or Wheat in March or April, but if he 
sows his Corn or Pumpkins at the same time they will 
perish ; this he know^s, but he may not know that what 
is true of the crops of the farm, is equally true of the 
garden. Hence the importance of a knowledge of the 
season when to sow vegetable seeds or set out plants. 
A most important case in point occurs just as I Avrite 
(May 15th, 1886). A would-be farmer to whom we sold 
fifty bushels of Sweet Corn complains that not a seed of 
the corn which he had planted has grown. He had 



ifOW, WHEN AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 105 

sowed it about Mtiy 1st, in Northern Indiana, and three 
weeks too early for that section ; what made matters 
even worse, we have had a cold, wet May ; the average 
temperature at night for the fortnight would probably 
not exceed forty-live degrees. Under such circumstances 
the seed corn could no more have germinated than if it 
had been thrown into the tire. That the seed was good 
was certain beyond question, as our trials showed that 
ninety per cent. grew. 

A decision was not long ago rendered in one of the 
Philadelphia courts against the claim for damages made 
by a market gardener, who brought suit against a well- 
known seedsman of that city for having sold him seed of 
Early York Cabbage that had "run to seed." 

The ventilation of such a matter is exceedingly in- 
structive to those engaged in gardening operations, as 
was shown by the facts elicited on the trial, the gist of 
which was, that the prosecutor had sown the Cabbage 
seed on the 5th of September instead of the 15th, and 
that error, combined with an unusually mild and grow- 
ing fall, practically lengthened the season, so that the 
Cabbage plants became "annuals" — running to seed 
within the year of sowing — rather than forming heads 
and acting as " biennials," as was expected of them. 
Now, just here an excellent lesson comes in with another 
vegetable. Many of our so-called scientific gardeners are 
English, Scotch, Irish, or Germans ; they come here, 
most of them, with a thorough contempt for our rougher 
style of doing things (a practical style born of our neces- 
sities in the higher cost of labor) ; and it is next to im- 
possible to convince one in a dozen of them that there 
is anything in horticultural matters here that they need 
to be informed of. Accordingly, if he wishes to raise 
Celery, he starts his seed in a hot-bed in February, just 
as he would have done m England, and is astonished to 
find in July that instead of forming a thick and solid 



106 GARDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. 

stalk, as it would have done there, it spindles and runs 
to seed. If his knovf ledge of the art had been based on 
common-sense, instead of the blind routine practice ac- 
quired 111 a colder climate, he would have known that 
our season — from April 1st to July Ist— v/ould sum up 
nearly the same mean of temperature here as it would 
there, from February 1st to July 1st ; and hence it was 
not only unnecessary here, but dangerous to the welfare 
of the crop, to sow such biennial plants as Celery in any 
other place than in the open ground, and that not before 
April. It was just such an error that the market gar- 
dener made who sued the seedsman above alluded to. 
He had been foUowmg, likely, the English or German 
method, and paid the penalty not only of losing his crop, 
but losing his law-suit, by not adapting his practice to 
our conditions of temperature. As the matter of sowing 
the seeds of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce to make 
plants to winter over in cold-frames, is one in which 
there is a wide-spread interest, I may state that the time 
of sovving in fall, in a country having such an area and 
difference of latitude as ours, is somewhat diSicult to fix 
upon ; but taking the latitude of New York as a basis, 
the safest time we have found to sow is about the 15th 
of September. Of late years we have even sown some 
kinds as late as September 30th, with excellent success, 
in warm, well-sheltered positions, in a rich, well-pre- 
pared soil. 

Each kind of seed has certain limits of temperature, 
bel6w or above which it cannot well germinate. Below 
the minimum heat it remains dormant ; above its maxi- 
mum limit, its vitality is destroyed ; between these two 
points is found the temperature most favorable to rapid 
germination. Practically it suffices to divide our garden 
seeds into two classes : natives of temperate and natives 
of subtropical countries. 

The temperature best fitted for the germination of 



HOW, WHEN AND WHEKE TO SOW SEEDS. 



107 



seeds of the leading kinds, will be best understood by 
the tabular form given below : 



Vegetable seeds that may he sown, 
in this latitude, from tlie middle of 
idarch to the end of April. Ther- 
i.iometer in the shade averaging 45 
degrees. 



Beet. 


Lettuce. 


Carrot. 


Onions, 


Cress. 


Parsnip, 


Celery. 


Parsley. 


Cabbage. 


Peas, 


Cauliflower. 


Radish. 


Endive. 


Turnip. 


Kale. 


Spinach. 



Vegetable seeds that may be sown 
in the open ground, in t?ds latitude, 
from the middle of May to the mid- 
dle of Jane. Thermometer in tlie 
shade averaging 60 degrees. 

Beans, Bush. _ Melon, Musk. 

Beans, Cranberry. Melon, Water. 

Beans, Lima, Nasturtium, 

Beans, Pole. Okra. 

Beans, Scarlet Pumpkin. 
Runner. Squash. 

Corn, Sweet, Tomato. 

Cucumber. 



It will be understood that these dates refer only to the 
latitude of New York ; farther South operations should 
be begun earlier ; farther North, later. So much for 
the time of sowing. I will now refer to suitable soil and 
the manner of sowing. 

The Choice of Soil wherein seeds are sown, when 
choice can be made, is of importance, the best being a 
light soil, composed of leaf mold, sand, and loam ; the 
best substitute for leaf mold being well-decayed stable 
manure, or, better yet, decayed refuse hops from the 
breweries — in short, anything of this nature that will 
tend to lighten the soil, the point to be avoided being a 
weight of soil, either from the nature or quantity of it. 
The nature of the soil is not of so much importance for 
the germinating of large vigorous seeds, as Peas, Beets, 
Beans, Corn, etc. ; but with the delicate, slow sprouting 
sorts, as Celery, Parsnip, Egg Plant, or Peppers, it is of 
much importance. Seeds of nearly every garden vege- 
table should be sown in rows ; the distance apart ac- 
cording to the variety, and the depth proportioned to 
the size of the seed. No better information can be given 
in this matter than the old rule of covering the seed with 



lOS GARDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. 

about twice or thrice its thickness of soil, but this should 
always be followed up by having the soil pressed closely 
down. In our market gardens here Ave invariably tread or 
have t*he ground rolled ; or in frames or hot-beds, where 
the roller cannot be used, we pat the soil down evenly with 
a spade after sowing. This may not be of so much con- 
sequence in early spring, w^hen the atmosphere is moist, 
but as the season advances, it is of great importance. 
Another advantage in rolling after seed sowing is, that it 
leaves the surface smooth and level, thereby greatly 
lessening the labor of hoeing. Instead of adopting the 
questionable practice of soaking seeds, preparatory to 
sowing in dry, hot weather, we prefer first, if very dry, 
to thoroughly saturate the bed with water, and after it 
has dried enough, so that it can be raked without clog- 
ging, sow the seed. It is much better to do this than 
to water the soil after the seed has been sown, as it has 
a tendency in most soils to cause the surface to bake. 

Although directions for sowing in hot-beds have been 
already fully given in the Chapter on " Formation and 
Management of Hot-beds," and also under the head of 
*^ Spring-raising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce," 
yet at the risk of some repetition I again refer to it here. 
Sowing in Hot-beds. — After the hot-bed has been 
formed — say the first week in March — let soil of the kind 
recommended be placed on it six inches deep, into which 
plunge a thermometer three or four inches, and when the 
temperature recedes to seventy-five or eighty degrees, you 
, may tlien sow, giving air in mild weather as soon as the 
seeds begin to vegetate, covering up warmly at night with 
straw mats. But many that may read this never saw a 
hot-bed, and are perhaps never likely to have one ; to 
such I would say that there is an excellent substitute on 
hand in most dwellings, in the kitchen or basement win- 
dows, facing South or East, inside of which is a temper- 
ature usually not far from that required for the vegeta- 



HOW, WHEX AXD AVHEFtE TO SOW SEEDS. 109 

tion of seeds^ and where plants from seeds of the early 
vegetables, or tender j)lants for the flower border, may 
be raised nearly as well, and with far less attention, than 
in a hot-bed. Instead of hot-beds, we use our green- 
houses for the purpose, using shallow boxes in which we 
sow the seed ; these are made from the common soap 
box, cut into three pieces, the top and bottom forming 
twOj and Ihe middle piece, bottomed, making the third ; 
these form cheap, convenient boxes. Fill these nearly 
full with the soil recommended, and, after sowing, press 
nicely down level and make the surface soil moderately 
firm ; keep moist in a temperature in the window of 
from sixty to seventy degrees, and your little trouble will 
soon be rewarded. 

In this way seeds should be sown thickly, and after 
they have made the first rough leaf, should be again 
planted out into the same kind of box, from one to three 
inches apart, according to the kind, and placed in the 
window to receive similar treatment as the seeds ; but as 
the season advances, in mild days the boxes should be set 
out of doors, care being taken that they are brought in 
before night, and that the soil in the boxes is never 
allowed to get dry. 

I know wdiat is usually the first thing the novice in 
gardening does if he gets any choice seed or favorite cut- 
ting ; he has somehow got the belief that there is some 
hidden virtue in a flower pot, and he accordingly sows 
his seed or plants his cutting in a pot, but in nine cases 
out of ten they are destroyed, or partially so, by the con- 
tinued drying of the soil in the porous flower pot. If 
early in the season, let delicate seeds be sown in the 
kitchen or sitting-room window, in the boxes as recom- 
mended, or if late, in the open border ; but seeds should 
never be sown in pots, as even in experienced hands they 
are much more troublesome and uncertain than boxes. 

RoTATTOis" or Crops. — Cultivators of the most limited 



110 GArvDENi:N^G FOR PROFIT. 

experience soon discover that the same kind of crop can- 
not be grown on the same gronnd for many years in suc- 
cession without deterioration. A great many theories 
have been advanced assigning causes for this, but they 
are as yet far from satisfactory, and as this is not a book 
of theory but of practice, I will not further alhide to 
them. The following general rules will be found useful 
as a guide : 

1st. Plants of the same family should not be planted 
to succeed each other. 

2d. Plants which occupy the ground for a number of 
years, such as Rhubarb and Asparagus, should be suc- 
ceeded by annual plants. 

3d. Crops grown for heads, such as Cauliflower, Cab- 
bage, etc., should be succeeded by crops grown for their 
bulbs or roots. 

It is hardly practicable to vary crops according to any 
set rule, the demand in different localities for certain 
articles being greater than in others. Generally variety 
enough is demanded to allow of sufficient rotation. Our 
system of heavy manuring, deep culture, gnd taking two 
crops from the ground each season, seems to do away in 
a great measure with the necessity for systematic rota- 
tion, which would often be found to be very inconvenient. 
The crops of all others that we find most benefited by 
change are the Cabbage tribe, together with the allied 
Turnip, Radish, etc., while, on the other hand, we have 
grown Onions successively on the same ground for ten 
years — ;the last crop just as good as the first ; but, as a 
rule of safety, vai-y whenever you can. 

The best of all rotation for crops is to ^' rest " the land 
whenever practicable from its continued manuring and 
cultivating, by sowing down to grass for one, two or three 
years ; this gives a renewed vigor and vitality that 
nothing else will impart. The farmers and market gar- 
deners of Long Island, who grow truck to supply the 



HOW, WHEi^ a:n^d avhere to sow seeds. Ill 

great market of New York, are now excelling onr Hud- 
son County, ]N"ew Jersey, market gardeners, whose 
limited areas and high-priced lands do not permit them 
to use this system of '^resting" their lands by a rotation 
of grass or clover. I have been so much impressed with 
the value of tliis plan, that, as soon as our cold frames have 
been emptied of Cabbage and Lettuce plants in May, the 
ground is sown at once with Clover, Millet or Oats — it 
makes little dilference which ; this crop is cut" off twice 
or thrice and by September it forms a good sod, which is 
turned down. It is rotted in thirty days and the land is 
in the very best possible friable condition for the reception 
of the cold frame Cabbage, Cauliflower or Lettuce plants, 
which we- begin to plant about the middle of October. 
Even when only a few weeks can be spared, we find it 
pays to sow the land with some green cro]) to be plowed 
in, rather than it should remain bare. 

QuAN'TiTY or Seeds per Acre. — The quantities given 
below are somewhat higher in some kinds than the usual 
estimates, our experience showing us that in weak vege- 
tating seeds, such as Parsnips, Carrots, etc., it requires 
numbers, particularly on stiff soils, to force through 
plants enough to form a crop. More seed is required 
when sown during the dry, hot months of summer than 
if sown in the cooler and moist seasons of spring and 
fall, hence quantities are regulated accordingly: 

QUANTITY OF SEED REQUIEED TO SOW AX ACRE. 

AsparaQ:us - 4 to 5 pounds. 

Beans, Dwarf. .in drills. 2 bushels. 

Beans, Pole in hills 10 to 12 quarts. 

Beet . in drills 5 to 6 pounds. 

Cabbage . in beds to transplant V2 pound. 

Carrot in drills 3 to 4 pounds. 

Covn in hills 8 to 10 quarts. 

Com (for soiling) 3 bushels. 

Cucumber in hills 2 to 3 pounds. 

Cress, Water in drills 3 to 3 pounds. 



113 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Cress, Upland -in drills. 2to 3 pounds. 

Kale, or Sprouts - 3 to 4 pounds. 

Mustard broadcast '/a bushel. 

Melcn(Musk) in hills 2 to 3 pounds. 

Melon (Water) in hills.. 4 to 5 pounds. 

Onion -in drills. 5 to 6 pounds. 

Onion, (for sets) in drills 30 pounds. 

Onion, (sets). in drills - 6to 12 bushels. 

Parsnip .-in di'ills - 4 to 6 pounds. 

Peas - ---in diills 2 bushels. 

Peas broadcast 3 bushels. 

Potato, (cut tubers) --- -10 to 12 bushels. 

Pumpkin - - -in hills 4 to 6 pounds. 

Radish in diills 8 to 10 pounds. 

Sage in di-ills 8 to 10 pounds. 

Salsify -in drills - 8 to 10 pounds. 

Spinach in drills 10 to 12 pounds. 

Squash, (bush varieties) in hills 4 to 6 pounds. 

Squash, (running varieties) in hills 3 to 4 pounds. 

Tomato -to transplant 'A pound. 

Turnip --in drills-- 1 to 2 pounds. 

Turnip broadcast 3 to 4 pounds. 

Barley broadcast .-- 2 to 3 bushels. 

Broom Corn in hills. 8 to 10 quarts. 

Clover (Red) alone - 15 to 20 pounds. 

Clover (White) alone - - .12 to 15 pounds. 

Clover (Alsike) alone 8 to 10 pounds. 

Clover (Lucern) alone 20 pounds. 

Grass (Mixed Lawn) - 4 to 5 bushels. 

Oats broadcast 2 to 3 bushels. 

Rye broadcast IV2 to 2 bushels. 

Vetches - - . .broadcast. 2 to 3 bushels. 

Wheat-. broadcast. IV2 to 2 bushels. 

Timothy, alone - Vs bushel. 

Orchard Grass, mixtm-e 4 to 5 bushels. 

Millet Vatol bushel. 

MIXTURE FOR SEEDING MOWING LANDS. 

Clover, I together ( 10 pounds_Clover. 



Timothy, V for ■< -V2 bushel Timothy. 

Red-Top. ) one acre ( 1 bushel Red-Top. 

When di'ills are referred to, the seed should be sown with a seed diiU. 



HOW, WHEN AIs'D WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 



113 



QUANTITY OF SEEDS REQUIRED FO::t A GIVEN NUMBER OF PLANTS, NUM- 
BER OF HILLS, OR LENGTH OF DRILL. 



Asparagus, 1 oz 60 ft. of drill. 

Beet, 1 oz 50 ft. of drill. 

Beans, Dwarf, 1 qt. 100 ft. of diill. 

Beans, Pole, 1 qt 150 hills. 

Carrot, 1 oz.. 150 ft. of diill. 

Cucumber, 1 oz 50 hills. 

Corn, 1 qt 200 hills. 

Dandelion, 1 oz.... 200 ft. of di'ilL 

Endive, 1 oz 150 ft. of drill. 

Leek, 1 oz 100 ft. of drill. 

Melon, Water, 1 oz 30 hills. 

Melon, Musk, 1 oz 60 hills. 

Okra, loz.... .40 ft. of diill. 

Onion, 1 oz 100 ft. of drill. 

Onion, Sets, 1 qt.... 40 ft. of diill. 

Parsley, 1 oz. 150 ft. of drill. 

Parsnip, 1 oz 200 ft. of diiU. 

Peas, 1 qt- 100 ft. of diiU. 



Pumpkin, 1 oz ..40 hills. 

Radish, 1 oz 100 ft. of diill. 

Salsify, 1 oz 70 ft. of drill. 

Spinach, 1 oz 100 ft. of drill. 

Squash, Early, 1 oz 50 hills. 

Squash, Marrow, 1 oz 16 hills. 

Turnip, 1 oz 150 ft. of drill. 

Asparagus, 1 oz SOO plants. 

Cabbage, 1 oz 2,000 plants. 

Cauliflower, 1 oz 2,000 plants. 

Celery, 1 oz.. 3,000 plants. 

Egg Plant, 1 oz 1,000 plants. 

Lettuce, 1 oz .3,000 plants. 

Pepper, 1 oz 1,000 plants. 

Rhubarb, 1 oz 500 plants. 

Tomato, 1 oz .1,500 plants. 

Thyme, 1 oz 3,000 plants. 

Sage, 1 oz 1,000 plants. 



THE NUMBER OF PLANTS, TREES, ETC., REQUIRED TO SET AN ACRE. 



Distance. Number. 

1ft. by 1ft 43,560 

IVjft. bylVaft 19,360 

2 ft. by 2 ft - .10,890 

2'/2 ft. by 2'/2 ft- 6,970 

3ft. by 1ft ..14,520 

3 ft. by 2 ft ...7,260 

3ft. by 3ft ...4,840 

4 ft. by 4 ft 2,722 

5 ft. by 5 ft 1,742 



Distance. Numher. 

6ft.by6ft 1,200 

9ft. by9ft 537 

12 ft. by 12 ft.- 302 

15ft. by 15ft 194 

18 ft. by 18 ft-. 134 

20 ft. by 20 ft-. 103 

25 ft. by 25 ft... 70 

30 ft. by 30 ft- 40 

40 ft. by 40 ft 27 



114 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

Transplanting is an operation of great importance ; the 
condition of the plant, the state of the soil, and of the 
atmosphere, have much to do with its success, independ- 
ently of the simple mechanical operation. It is not very 
easy to instruct the uninitiated as to what the proper 
condition of the plant should be ; experience in this 
being, as in everything else, the best teacher. Attention 
to keeping the seed-bed clear of weeds, the "topping" 
of plants when they get too tall, and careful digging up 
of them so as to preserve the root fibres, will all greatly 
assist. We cannot always get the soil in the proper con- 
dition of moisture to receive plants at the time trans- 
planting should be performed, but to make up for the 
want of moisture, planting should be delayed always 
until late in the afternoon, unless in cloudy weather. It 
is also of great importance that the ground be freshly 
plowed ; the moist soil thus brought to the surface will 
induce the formation of root fibres in one night in warm 
weather, after which the plants are comparatively safe ; 
but if they be allowed to wilt before the new roots begin 
to be emitted, and continued dry weather ensues, then 
nothing will save them but having recourse to Avatering,. 
which, however, should only be done in case of dire 
necessity. In planting, such plants as Cabbage, Lettuce 
and Celery, each man is provided with a boy, who car- 
ries the plants in a basket, and whose duty is to drop 
the plant on the line at the proper distance before 
the planter. In planting, a hole is made by the dibber 
about the depth of the root ; the plant being inserted, 
the soil is then pressed close to the root ; the hole thus 
made by the displacement of the soil is again filled up by 
one stroke of the dibber. In dry weather we still further 



TRANSPLANTIKG. 115 

firm the plant by each planter returning on his row and 
treading the soil around plants firmly with the feet, I 
am thus particular in describing a simple matter, know- 
ing well that millions of plants are annually lost by 
inattention to this firming of the soil. The same rule is 
applicable to transplanting of all kinds, trees, shrubs, or 
vegetables. Instead of "puddling" the roots in mud, 
we prefer to keep the plants dripping wet during the 
whole time of planting, so that each plant, as it is put in 
the soil, puddles itself by the particles of soil adhering 
to the wet root. Besides, the leaves of the plant, being 
wet, will for some time resist the action of the dry air. 

Planting of Vegetable Plants. — A year or two 
ago, about the middle of April, the snow, after its long 
acquaintance with us during the past winter, intruded 
itself again in the spring and covered our newly-planted 
gardens to the depth of several inches. Veteran tillers 
of the soil could smile at this assault, knowing it to be 
liarmless. But correspondents, still young in the busi- 
ness, wrote to me fearing their planted crops were ruined. 

A snow, after planting in spring, I have never known 
to injure plants of any kind, unless, indeed, it was heavy 
enough to break them. The fear of snow, and of the 
slight late frosts, often prevents the setting of such plants 
as Cabbage, Lettuce, and even Asparagus, among vegeta- 
bles, and of Strawberries and other small fruits, until the 
season is so far advanced that hot weather comes on, 
starting the tops before the roots have had time to get a 
foothold. There is rarely danger (when the ground is 
sufficiently dry to work, and it never should be worked 
until it is so), that such hardy or half-hardy plants as we 
plant in spring w411 be injured by any frost that may 
come after they are put out. This opening up for spring 
work usually begins here by the end of March, and I 
have never yet seen plants injured by frost after that 
time. 



116 GARDEXING FOR PROFIT. 

To give an idea what amount of colj Cabbage and 
Lettuce plants will stand without injury, I will relate an 
experience I had in my early days ot* market gardening. 
A particularly mild spell in the latter part of February 
had led us to believe that spring had come. Out went 
the teams, and the ground was manured, plowed, and 
planted with Cabbage and Lettuce to the extent of two 
acres, which was all finished up by the 26th of February. 
It was my second year in the busuiess. I was yet an in- 
experienced hand, and my neighbors predicted that my 
venture was a foolhardy one, and would result in total 
loss, no one having ever before planted such crops .in this 
section at such an early season. But fortune favored me ; 
the weather continued mild long enough to allow the 
plants to '^strike root," and though the thermometer 
afterward marked as low as fifteen degrees above zero, 
and the ground was frozen for full ten days, so that it could 
not be again dug or plowed, yet the wild venture proved 
a success, and I had the satisfaction of having the first 
Cabbages from that February planting that were sold in 
market. I never after had an opportunity of planting so 
early, and would not do so if I had, for it was simply 
favorable conditions that saved the crop. If the cold 
snap had set in immediately after planting, there is out 
little doubt the plants would have suffered injury. But 
the experience was valuable in showing what severity of 
frost such plants would star.d without injury. xMuch 
depends on the condition of the plants ; if taken from 
the hot-bed or frame without being previously exposed, 
they might be in condition to be as easily injured as a 
Tomato plant. 

The past season I had the sashes taken off my entire 
crop of Cabbage and Lettuce plants on March 1st (they 
being hardened beforehand by ventilating), and never 
covered them again. They were twice covered up with 
snow, and the mercury several times marked only twenty 



VEGETABLES — VARIETIES AXD CULTIVATTOX. 11? 

degrees above zero. Yet we hardly ever before had finer 
plants. 

The sashes so taken off — nearly 1,000 in number — were 
used for our flower business, but, had we desired it, they 
might have been used on temporary frames, and grown a 
crop of Lettuce which in five weeks from date of plant- 
ing, March 1st, would have easily given $2 per sash. I 
mention these facts to give confidence to the hundreds 
now engaged in market gardening, who, from dread of 
exposing their plants in spring, not only do them an in- 
jury, but lose the profit of a second use of their sashes. 
A third use of sashes may be had in growing Tomato, 
Sweet Potato, or Egg plants, after the crop of Lettuce is 
sold, or forwarding an early crop of Cucumbers or Melons. 
(See ^'Forcing Cucumbers.'*) 



CHAPTER XV. 
VEGETABLES, THETR VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION. 

In describing the modes of cultivating the different 
varieties of vegetables, I shall notice at length only those 
of the most importance, and the most profitable for mar- 
ket purposes, while for those of less value as market 
crops, the directions for culture will be such as are 
adapted to private gardens only. 

A limited number of kinds will be described, and such 
only as our experience has shown to possess the greatest 
earliness and productiveness. Nothing is more perplex- 
ing to the beginner than to be bewildered by descriptions 
of perhaps twenty so-called varieties of a vegetable that 
in reality does not embrace four distinct kinds. For 
example, in early Cabbages, there are some hundred 
or more varieties described ; yet we find, after having 



118 GAKDEXIXG FOU PROFIT. 

experimented with some scores of kinds in our time, 
there are two varieties more profitable to grow than any 
others — viz., the Jersey AVakefield and Early Summer, 
which are grown in this locality to the exclusion of all 
others. However, some kinds are found to do better in 
some localities than in others — hence, as in fruits, no 
particular variety should be claimed to be universally the 
best. 

ASVARAGJJ^.— {Asparagus officinalis.) 

Asparagus being a hardy perennial plant, that may be 
grown on the same ground for twenty years without re- 
newal, special care is required in forming the beds in 
which it is to grow. This is done sometimes by trench- 
ing to the depth of two or three feet, mixing each layer 
of soil, as turned over, with two or three inches of well- 
rotted manure ; but for market purposes, on a large scale, 
trenching is seldom resorted to ; deep and thorough pul- 
verizing by the plow and subsoiler serving instead. The 
soil best suited for Asparagus is a deep and rather sandy 
loam, such as is often to be found on the borders of mead- 
ows or on the margins of lakes or rivers — land formed by 
the washings of the higher grounds, and known as allu- 
vial. This land, when clear from under water or from 
overflow is by far the best suited for the growth of all 
kinds of vegetables and is, from the nature of the plants, 
particularly adapted for Asparagus or Celery. 

PKOPAGATiojq'. — Asparagus is propagated by seed, which 
is sown in spring, as soon as the soil will admit of work- 
ing, which should be prepared by being thoroughly pul- 
verized and enriched with well-rotted manure. The seed 
is sow]i in row^s one foot apart, and if kept carefully hoed 
and clear from weeds, the plants will be in fine condition 
to plant out the succeeding spring. Strict attention to 
this will save a year in time ; for if the seed-bed has been 
neglected, it will take two years to get the plants as large 



VEGETABLES — ASPARAGUS. 119 

as they would be in one year, if they had been properly 
cared for. In consequence of this very common neglect 
of proper cultivation of the seed-bed, it is an almost uni- 
versal impression that the plants must be two or three 
years old before planting. This is undoubtedly an error, 
for almost all large growers for market purposes, in the 
neighborhood of New York, invariably plant one-year- 
old plants, and count on marketing a crop, the third 
spring from the time of sowing. One pound of seed will 
produce about 3,000 plants ; and to plant an acre of As- 
paragus requires from 15,000 to 20,000 plants when 
planted close. 

Planting. — The bed bemg prepared as previously 
described, planting may be done any time for six or eight 
weeks from the opening of spring. The plant, from its 
peculiar succulent roots, is less susceptible of injury 
from late planting than most other vegetables, although 
at the same time delay should not occur, unless unavoid- 
able, as the sooner it is planted after the ground is in 
working order, the better will be the result. When there 
is plenty of ground and the ci-op is to be extensively 
grown, perhaps the best mode of planting is in rows 
three feet apart, the plants nine inches apart in the rows. 
For private use, or for marketing on a small scale, beds 
should be formed live feet wide, with three rows planted 
in each ; one in the middle and one on each side, a* foot 
from the edge ; the distance of the plants in the rows, 
nine inches ; the alleys between the beds should be two 
feet wide. In planting, a line is set and a cut made a 
little slanting to the depth of six or eight inches, accord- 
ing to the size of the plants. The plants are then laid 
against the side of the trench, at the distance already 
named (nine inches), care being taken to properly spread 
the roots. The crown or top of the plant should be cov- 
ered about three inches. In a week or so after planting, 
the beds should be touched over lightly with a sharp steel 



120 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

rake, wliicli will destroy the germinating weeds. The 
raking had better be continued at intervals of a week or 
i,o, until the plants start to grow, when the hoe or hand- 
cultivator may be applied between the rows and alleys ; 
the weeds that come up close to the plant must of neces- 
sity be pulled out by the hand. 

In the first edition of this work I gave it as my belief 
that we had only one variety of Asparagus, and that all 
the so-called " Giant ^' and ^* Mammoth" varieties were 
merely the results of superior soil or cultivation, which 
on being propagated by seeds or otherwise, and placed in 
ordinary conditions of culture, would fall back to their 
original or normal condition ; in short, that the species 
had never ^' broke," as we technically term it. 

This belief necessarily made me skeptical to the claims 
of the " Colossal " when that variety was first introduced, 
and I invariably replied to all inquirers that past ex- 
perience in this matter led me to believe that it was no 
different from the ordinary sort. 

I was finally invited to pay a visit to the farm of Abra- 
ham Van Siclen, of Jamaica, Long Island, and there to 
inspect an acre of the Oyster Bay Asparagus (the ordinary 
kind), and an acre of his " Colossal," which Mr. Van Siclen 
liad planted in the spring of 1868, each then one year old 
from seed. A thorough inspection of the roots of each lot 
proved that they were of the same age when planted. 
The soil was next examined, and found to be as near the 
same as it could well be, yet these two beds of Asparagus 
showed a difference that left me no longer a shadow of a 
doubt of their being entirely distinct varieties. In the 
old variety we found no shoot thicker than one inch in 
diameter and averaging twenty shoots to a hill, while in 
the '"Colossal" many shoots were found an inch and a 
half in diameter, and averaging thirty-five shoots to a 
hill — an enormous growth, when it is remembered the 
plant was only three years from the seed. 



V EG ET A B LES — AS PA R A G US. 121 

Mr. Van Siclen is well known as one of out best Lonsr 
Island market gardeners, who has made the growing of 
Asparagus a specialty for twenty years, and who has prob- 
ably in that time sold more Asparagus in the markets 
of New York than any other man. He was exceedingly 
enthusiastic in praise of this variety, believing that at a 
low estimate it would yield a profit of at least one-third 
greater than the ordinary sort, under the same condi- 
tions, besides coming to maturity two years sooner. 

Mr. Van Siclen's method of growing Asparagus is sim- 
ple, and in some respects new to me. To begin, he sows 
his seeds in his rich sandy loam in April, in rows one 
foot apart and two inches in dei^th, dropping the seeds 
so that they may be distributed evenly about half an 
inch apart ; the plants are cultivated by hoeing between 
the rows and keeping them clear of weeds by hand pick- 
ing. In the spring following he sets his plants, now one 
year old, which are in his experience preferable to those 
two years old. His mode of planting is somewhat differ- 
ent from the usual practice, but for having a lasting 
Asparagus bed — one that will be as good at the end of 
twenty years as it is at eight — it is probably the best. 

It differs in setting the roots much wider apart than 
usual ; his stand, six feet between the rows and four feet 
between the plants, making less than two thousand 
plants to an acre. In preparing the land to receive the 
plants, he merely plows to the depth of a foot or so with 
the ordinary plow ; his soft, sandy subsoil rendering the 
use of the subsoil plow unnecessary, but in soils less 
favored the use of the subsoil plow would be of decided 
advantage. In preparing to plant he turns out a furrow^ 
with a double mold-board plow, so that at its deepest 
part it is nearly twelve inches deep ; a good shovelful of 
thoroughly rotted manure is then placed in the furrow, 
at distances of four feet, so spread that it will make a 
layer of three inches or so ; an inch or two of soil is then 



].;Ji;i GARDENIXG FOR PROFIT. 

thrown on the top of the manure, and the Asparagus 
planted as shown in the engraving, figure 14, and with 
its crown six or seven inches below the surface level. 
The plant is now only lightly covered up with the 
soil, say two or three inches, until it starts to grow, when 
the furrows are thrown in by the plow so that the whole 
surface is leveled, which places the crown of the Aspa- 
ragus some six or seven inches under the surface. This 
would be, perhaps, four inches too deep in heavy soils, 
but in light, soft soils it answers well. The first and 
second seasons after planting no Asparagus is cut for 




Fiff. 14,— MANNER OF PLANTING ASPARAGUS. 

market, as it weakens the roots, but in the third year a 
partial crop is taken, although the beds are not considered 
to be at their best until the sixth or seventh year. Their 
productiveness may be continued for twenty years by this 
wide system of planting, recourse being had to manuring 
freely annually, by digging or plowing it in around the 
roots before the crop has started to grow, or after it is 
cut. 

Growing Asparagus from Seed, without trans- 
planting, is a method now finding man^ advocates. It 
is not only a much cheaper method, but in my opin- 
ion it is the best method if the operator can have patience 
to wait a year longer for a crop. The plan is very sim- 
ple,, and can be done by any one liaving even a slight 
knowledge of farming or gardening work. Prepare the 
land by manuring, deep plowing and harrowing, mak- 
ing it as level and smooth as possible for the reception of 
the seed. Strike out lines three feet apart and about 



VEGETABLES — ASPARAOUS. 12'S 

two to three inches deep, in which sow the seed by hand 
or seed drill, as is most convenient, using from five to 
seven pounds of seed (which costs fifty cents per pound), 
to each acre. After sowing the seed and before covering 
tread down the seed in the rows evenly with the feet 
(see ''Use of the Feet in Sowing and Planting") ; then 
draw the back of a rake lengthwise over the rows, after 
which roll the whole surface. As soon as the land is dry 
and fit to work in Spring, the young j^lants of Aspara- 
gus will start through the ground sufiiciently to define the 
rows in two or three weeks. At once begin to cultivate 
w4th hand or horse cultivator, and stir the ground so as 
to destroy the embryo weeds, breaking the soil in the 
rows between the plants with the fingers or hand weeder 
for the same purpose. This must be repeated at inter- 
vals of two or three weeks during the summer, as the 
success of this method is entirely dependent on keepino- 
down the weeds, which, if allowed to grow, would soon 
smother the Asparagus plants, which for the first season 
of their growth are Aveaker than most weeds. In two or 
three months after sowing, the Asparagus will have at- 
tained ten or twelve inches in height. It must now be 
thinned out so that the plants stand nine inches apart 
in the rows. By fall they will be from two to three feet 
high, strong and vigorous, if the directions for culture 
have been faithfully followed. When the foliage dies 
(but not before), cut the stems down to the ground and 
cover the lines for five or six inches on each side with 
two or three inches in depth of rough manure. As the 
spring again returns, renew the same process of cultiva- 
tion to keep down weeds the second year exactly as was 
done for the first, and so on to the spring of the fourth 
year, when a crop may be cut that will well reward all 
the labor that has been expended. Sometimes, if the 
land is particularly suitable, a crop may be had well 
worth marketing the third year, but as a rule, it will be 



IM GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

better to wait until the fourth year without cutting 
much, as it would tend to weaken the plants. To com- 
pensate for the loss of a year in time in thus growing 
Asparagus from seed, such crops as Cabbage, Lettuce, 
Onions, Beets, or Spinach — all of which will be market- 
able before the Asparagus will have grown high enough 
to interfere with them — can be sown or planted between 
the rows of Asparagus the first year of its growth with 
but little injury to it ; and as the ground for the Aspar- 
agus has been heavily manured and well prepared, such 
crops will, in a measure, make up for the year's loss in 
time, provided there is a market near enough for their 
sale. I had an old friend near Macon, Ga., who grew 
an acre of Asparagus after this plan. His crop was sold 
in the New York market and brought him an average of 
$1,000 a year for six years after it came into bearing, to 
my certain knowledge, my salesman having sold it for 
him. He died some ten years ago, and I presume the 
bed was neglected, or it might still be in full bearing. 
There is no crop so certain of sale and so easily shipped 
as Asparagus, from the fact that it has perhaps greater 
value for its weight than any other vegetable, besides, it 
is ready at a season when the temperature is low, so that 
whether shipped from the extreme Southern States to 
our large cities in the Middle States, or reshipped to 
still further North, there is never danger from injury in 
transit. The reason of its being profitable is obvious. 
The cultivator has to wait three or four years for a crop. 
The majority of gardeners either cannot or will not wait, 
and hence it becomes profitable to the few who cultivate 
it. The variety usually grown is the Colossal, but Mr. 
John Nix, a well-known commission dealer of New York 
City, and who is also one of the largest truckers in South 
Carolina, claims that the new variety of Asparagus, 
^•' The Palmetto," is one Avhich excels all other varieties 
grown at the South, m earliness, yield, quality and even- 



VEGETABLES — ASPARAGUS. 125 

ness of growth. It has not yet been extensively tried 
at the Korth, but we have every reason to think that it 
will do equally well here. 

The Appligatto:s" of Salt to Asparagus as a top- 
dressing is claimed to be of benefit in inland districts 
out of the range of a saline atmosphere, but is of little 
or no benefit in the vicinity of salt water. When used 
it should be applied in spring only, at the rate of half a 
pound per square yard, strewed on the surface"; the rains 
will dissolve it and wash it down to the roots. Besides 
its beneficial effects upon the plant, it is to some extent 
destructive to the wire worm and other insects that are 
often troublesome to the Asparagus. 

We have found Asparagus beds very profitably bene- 
fited by the application of superphosphate of lime or pure 
bone dust as a spring top-dressing, applied at the rate of 
500 pounds per acre, sown on the beds and hoed in. 
Experiments with this on alternate rows showed a dif- 
ference of nearly one foot in height of the stalk in favor 
of the rows to which the superphosphate had been ap- 
plied over those which had none ; and a difference of 
nearly double the product when the crop was cut in the 
succeeding spring. 

The fall treatment of the Asparagus beds varies with 
the locality ; in cold regions, where, if left unprotected, 
the frost would penetrate below the roots, a covering of 
three or four inches of rough manure or leaves is neces- 
sary. Although an entirely hardy plant, it will start 
earlier and with greater vigor in spring if the root has 
not been subjected to severe freezing. In milder sections 
no such precaution is necessary ; all that need be done is 
to clear off the stems as soon as they are withered in the 
fall, and clean the beds preparatory to giving a dressing 
of two or three inches of manure, which had better not 
be applied until spring. We believe the common practice 
oi top-dressing Asparagus beds lu fall to be a very waste- 



126 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

fill one, in districts where it is not necessary to provide 
against severe freezing, for, as the plant is then dormant, 
the juices of the manure are either evaporated or else 
washed down by rains below the roots of the plant. I 
remember having three small Asparagus beds under my 
charge many years ago, on one of which I applied in De- 
cember twenty-five pounds of Peruvian guano, dissolved 
in fifty gallons of water ; in April the same application 
was made to another bed, and the other was left without 
anything. There was no perceptible difference between 
that to which the liquid had been applied in December 
and that to which none had been given, but on that 
which received it in April nearly double the weight of 
crop was produced. Since then, all our practice, cor- 
roborated by direct experiment, Iujs convinced me beyond 
all doubt, that manures, either liquid or solid, are un- 
profitably employed when applied to plants in the dor- 
mant state. 

In gathering the crop caution must be used not to in- 
jure the plants by continued or excessive cutting ; for it 
must be borne in mind that to reproduce annually its 
crop of shoots in spring, something must be left to grow 
to encourage the formation of fresh roots. In our market 
gardens the practice is to cut off all the shoots as they 
are ready, until the middle of May or 1st of June, when 
the shoots begin to show signs of weakness ; then all is 
left to grow and no more cut. In its preparation for 
market the shoots are tied up in round bunches. The 
size of the bunch is governed somewhat by the abundance 
of tlie crop, and is about four to five inches in diameter 
and from seven to nine inches in length, in weight from 
two to three pounds, firmly tied at the butts and tops. 
The tying material is the matting known as Eaffia, as 
that is soft, pliable, and has the necessary strength. The 
proper bunching of Asparagus used to be quite an art, 
but the ** Asparagus Buncher" (see implements) has ren- 



VEGETABLES — ASPARAGUS. " 127 

dered the operation so simple that any one can do it 
rapidly with a few minutes practice. 

This crop is subject to so many conditions that an 
average value can hardly be given ; some of our growers 
here yet claim that it pays an annual clear profit of $500 
per acre, while others say that it does not pay them over 
$200 per acre. During a period of ten years, counting 
from the time the bed was planted, it is safe to say that, 
in this vicinity, the average profits per acre -will be 1250. 
It is a crop that never fails to sell, is always productive 
if properly treated, and having a great value for its weight 
— a ton often being worth from 1200 to $400 — it is, in 
all respects, a valuable crop for the market gardener. In 
packing Asparagus for shipping it is best packed in boxes 
of a depth equal to the length of the bunch or perhaps 
an inch deeper, because in packing. Asparagus is placed 
on end, and some soft material, as moss, cotton, or soft 
paper should be placed on the top, so that should the 
box be turned upside down, the soft tops will not be 
bruised. The interstices between the bunches should 
also be filled in, so that the whole may be firm enough to 
not be injured by jarring. This is true of packing all 
vegetables for shipment; unless the box is packed full and 
firm, jarring in the handling is sure to injure them. 

In some localities, especially on Long Island, New 
York, the Asparagus Beetle {Crioceris asparagi) has in- 
jured the crop to such an extent as to cause whole plan- 
tations to be plowed under. When the beetle first ap- 
pears it may be controlled by picking it off and destroying 
it ; but if allowed to become established the task is hope- 
less. The engraving (figure 15) shows the insect in its 
different stages. The lower figure is a part of a branch, 
with the small black eggs attached by their ends ; these 
are given of the natural size, and magnified. The larva, 
or caterpillar, as well as the perfect beetle, is shown at 
the top of the engraving ; the natural size of these is in- 



128 



aARDE:N'IN'G FOR PROFIT. 



dicat.d by the lines drawn at the side. Whenever the 
eggs or the larvae appear, cut and burn the plants as long 

as any traces of the insect are to be 




seen ; this must be done if it de- 



stroys every vestige of vegetation. A 
remedy much in use in some sec- 
tions is to coop up hens in the vicin- 
ity of Asparagus beds, and let the 
chickens out to pick up the larvae and 
insects. A certain remedy against 
the Asparagus beetle, it is claimed, 
can be made by mixing one pound of 
Paris green in 100 gallons of water, 
sprinkling over the plants twice each 
week on the first appearance of the 
insect. The varieties of Asparagus 
now are confined to the " Colossal " 
and the " New Palmetto," already 

described. The ''Giant," formerly so much grown, is 

now nearly out of cultivation. 



Fig. 15.— ASPARAGUS 
BEETLE. 



ARTKjJLOK'E.—iCynara Scolymus.) 

Although a vegetable as yet rarely seen in our markets, 
it is extensively used in Europe, particularly in France. 
The portion of the plant most used is the undeveloped 
flower-head, or rather those portions of the flower-head 
called the scales of the involucre. They are sometimes 
boiled and used as a salad, with vinegar, oil, and salt ; 
but more generally in the raw state. 

Another use of the Artichoke is to blanch it, by tying 
the young side shoots moderately close together, as we 
tie Endive, filling in between with soil to exclude the air 
until the shoots are blanched ; this is what is known as 
''Artichoke Salad," or " Artichoke Chard ; " it is used 



VEGETABLES — ARTICHOKE. 



129 



in this state in various forms of cookery, besides being 
used as a salad. 

It is a vegetable of easy culture, originally propagated 
from seeds until a stock is secured, after which it is 
readily increased by suckers from the root. These are 
phmted out in April or May^ in rows from three to four 
feet apart) and two feet 
between the plants, care 
beins: taken that the 
plants are well firmed 
in planting, and if the 
Aveather is dry, they 
must be freely watered 
until they start to grow. 
The plantation, the first 
season, will only give r 
partial crop ; but, as it 
is a perennial plant, 
after being once planted 
the same bed will re- 
main in bearing for 
years. The plant may 
be said to be entirely 
hardy south of Mason 
and Dixon's Line, but 
north of that it requires 
to be protected by cov- 
ering between the plants 
with six or eight inches of leaves or coarse manure. 

The Varieties are the Green Globe and Common 
Green, differing but little, except in the form of the 
flower-head, the former being globular, the latter conical. 
It is claimed by some that the Common Green is more 
hardy and productive, but we have grown them side by 
side for years and never have observed any difference, 
except the very trifling one in the shape of the flower-head. 




Fig-. 16. — GREEN GLOBE ARTICHOKE. 



130 GARDEJ^ING FOR PROFIT. 

AETICHOKE.— Jerusalem. — {Heliantlius tuherosus.) 

This is an entirely different plant from the true Arti- 
choke, though it resembles it someweAvhat in flavor — 
hence its name. It is a species of Heliantlius, or Sun- 
flower, and the plant has the general appearance of a 
small Sunflower. The edible part of the plant is its 
tubers. These are like the potato in appearance, but 
when cooked, to the taste of most people, are very inferior 
in flavor. Their nutritive value is said, however, to be 
fully equal to that of the potato. Used in the raw state 
it is pickled like the cucumber, or sliced and eaten with 
vinegar as a salad, but as a culinary vegetable it is but 
little grown, except for variety or novelty. 

Its culture is, in all respects, similar to the potato, 
but it is more productive, always free from disease, will 
grow almost in any soil or situation, and will stand the 
winter on light soils wherever a Parsnip crop will stand ; 




JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 

for these reasons it is regarded as a valuable food for 
cattle or pigs, who eat it freely. It is planted largely at 
the West as food for swine, which do their own har- 
vesting. 

There are several varieties, known as Red, Purple^ 
Yellow and White Bkinmd. 



VEGETABLES — BASIL — BALM — BEANS. 131 

BASIL. — {Ocimum BasiUcum.) 

An herb of a highly aromatic odor, and a strong flavor 
of doves. It is used for flavoring soups, stews and 
sauces, and is by some used in salads. Its culture is the 
same as that of other sweet herbs. The seed should be 
sown in the ojje^i yrou?ul and not in frames, which is the 
English practice, and necessary there from their colder 
climate. Sow in rows one foot apart ; when three or 
four inches high it may be transplanted in rows one foot 
apart and six inches between plants. If a small quantity 
only is required, it may be thinned out in the seed rows 
and left to grow where sown. 

There are two species cultivated, namely, the Common 
Sweet Basil {Ocimum BasiUcum), and the Bush Basil 
(0. minimum). 



BALM. — (Melissa officinalis.) 

Another well-known aromatic herb which has a very 
agreeable lemon-like odor. It is used as a tea for its 
soothing effect in irritations of the throat and lungs, and 
a century ago was used as a specific for coughs and colds. 
Its young shoots are sometimes used as an ingredient in 
salads. It is rapidly propagated by divisions of the root, 
which, planted in Spring at one foot apart each way, 
will form a solid mass by fall. 

Besides the common kind we have now in cultivation 
a beautiful variegated variety, possessing all the prop- 
erties of the other. 



BEANS. — {Phaseolus vulgaris.)— Busu, Kidney and Pole. 

A leading vegetable of our market gardens, and ex- 
tensively cultivated in every section of the country North 



Vd'i GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

and South. Although it can be grown on soils that are 
not enriched by manure, yet, like almost every other 
vegetable, it is more profitable when grown on highly 
cultivated land. It is what we term a " tender" plant ; 
that is, one that will be killed by the action of slight 
frosts, hence it is not planted until late enough in the 
spring to secure it from the risk. As in a country pre- 
senting such differences of temperature as ours, no stated 
date can be given at which to sow, perhaps no safer rule 
can be adopted for sowing all '' tender " vegetables for 
all parts of the country than the time at Avhich our great 
staple, Indian Corn, is planted. This rule will be 
equally intelligible to the inhabitants of Maine and to 
those of South Carolina, for all plant Corn, and know 
that our great enemy to early vegetation, " Jack Frost," 
will, without scruple, smite this '' tender" vegetable if 
it be forced to grow before his icy reign is past. In this 
section we plant Beans for first crop when we plant 
Corn, from 10th to 20th May. But as the crop of 
Beans comes rapidly to maturity under favorable cir- 
cumstances, in five or six weeks, it may be sown any time 
from these dates until July, August, or September, ac- 
cording to the temperature of the district. 

The culture in market gardens is simply to draw drills 
about three inches deep, and from eighteen inches to two 
feet apart, according to the richness of the soil ; the 
poorer the soil the closer they can be planted. The 
seed is dropped in the drills two or three inches apart, 
and the soil covered in on them with the feet ; this we 
find to be a quicker and better method of covering in 
seeds of this size than by the hoe or rake. Af tef the 
plants have grown an inch or two a cultivator is run 
between the rows, which generally is all that is necessary 
to be done, until they are large enough to have a little 
earth thrown to each side of the row by the plow, w^hich 
completes their cultivation. Beans, like Tomatoes and 



VEGETABLES — BEAN". 



133 



Peas, are easy of cultiYation and not particular as to 
soil, and are, in consequence, rarely a 
profitable crop i)i the locality in loliich 
they are grown; hence the only way in 
which they are made profitable is by 
growing South and shipping North, they 
being easily transported. Large quanti- 
ties are grown in early soils in Southern 
sections of the country and shipped to our 
large Northern cities, and meet a rapid 
sale at prices that must pay a large profit, 
if their manner of growing the crop is as 
simple as ours. It will be understood 
that this crop is almost exclusively sold 
in pod as snap shorts (in the green un- 
ripened state) by the hucksters, and rarely 
as a shell bean. 

The varieties are now very numerous, 
but the following, placed in what we con- 
sider the order of their value to the mar- 
ket gardener, will embrace variety enough 
for all practical purposes. 



BEAN.— Dwarf. 



Earliest Red Valentine.— This variety 
is at least ten days earlier than the Early 
Red Valentine, which is one of the very 
best market varieties. On account of its 
great earliness it is largely grown by mar- 
ket gardeners ; but except in the charac- 
teristic of extreme earliness, it differs in 
no other way from the Early Red Valen- 
tine next described. (See figure H.) 



Fig. 17.— EARLI- 
EST RED VALEN- 
TINE BEAN. 



134 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Early Red Valentine. — Equally desirable for either 
market or family use, being early, productive, tender and 
of excellent flavor. The pods are round, somewliat 
curved, and the seeds, when ripe, salmon speckled vrith 
purplish rose. This variety is usually ready to pick in 
six weeks from the time of sowing. 

Early Mohawk. — A very productive early variety and 
one that will stand more cold than most of the bush 
varieties. Both this and the preceding sort are largely 
grown in the Southern States for iN'orthern markets. 
The pods are from five to six inches long ; seeds, when 
ripe, drab with purple spots. 

Lon£^ Yellow Six Weeks. — Early, very prolific, and of 
excellent quality. Pods, six to eight inclies long ; seeds, 
when ripe, yellow or dun color. 

Refugee or Thousand to One. — A very productive 
medium or late variety. The young pods are tender and 
of fine flavor. This variety is extensively grown for 
pickling. Seeds, speckled purple. 

Gallega or Lari?e Refugee, —This is of recent intro- 
duction and is a larger form of the . Eef agee above de- 
scribed. Both pods and seeds are not only much larger 
in size than their parent variety, but it is also a much 
better yielder. Seeds, when ripe, purple, speckled with 
white. 

White Marrowfat. — The variety so often grown for 
sale in the dry state. It is also valued as a string bean, 
but is used to a greater extent as a shelled bean, either 
green or dry. Seeds large, ivory white. 



BEAN.-Wax. 

Black Wax. — When ripe the pods are yellow, averag- 
ing from six to nine inches in length. They are tender, 



VEGETA BLES — BEAN. 



135 



and the quality is of the very best, 
ripe, are glossy black. 

Golden Wax. — A strong growing, dis- 
tinct variety, at least a week earlier than 
the Black Wax. The pods will average 
six inches long, are brittle and entirely 
stringless. As a snap bean, it pej'haps 
excels all others in tenderness and rich- 
ness of flavor. Seeds, when ripe, are 
purjjle and w^hite. (See figure 18.) 

Flageolet Wax. — The pods of this 
are very large size, often a foot in leugtii, 
exceedingly tender and succulent, and 
enormously productive. It is ecjually 
good as a shell bean. I consider this one 
of the best of the Bush Beans. 



The seeds, when 



'EEA'N.—iPhaseohis hinatns, eic.)— Running 
OR Pole. 

These are more tender and require 
rather more care in culture than the 
Bush Beans. The soil best suited is 
sandy loam, which should be liberally 
enriched with short manure in the hills, 
which are formed, according to variety, 
from three to four feet apart, and pro- 
vided with a stake from eight to nine 
feet in height, set in the center of each. 
This class of beans is particularly tender, 
and it is perfectly useless to plant the 
seeds before the weather has become set- 
tled and warm in spring, as they are 
almost certain to rot, and even should they not, the plant 
makes no growth, unless in uninterrupted warm weather. 



Fig. 18.— GOLDEN 
WA.X BEAN. 



136 GARDEIs'IXG FOR PROFIT. 

Ill this district they should never be planted out until a 
week or more after the planting of Bush Beans ; if planted 
at the same time, lOtii of May, they are almost certain to 
fail. 

From five to six seeds are planted in each hill about 
two inches deep. Being a vegetable requiring considera- 
ble expense in growing, staking, picking, etc., it brings 
a correspondingly high price per acre in market ; but 
maturing during the heat of summer, t]ie advantage c-f 
earliness in this crop is not so manifest as in many others. 
The profits per acre average about $150, when sold for 
consumption in the locality in which it is grown. Shipped 
from earlier sections it, no doubt, would double the above 
amount. There are many varieties, but only a few of 
leading merit. 

Larj?e White Lima. — With nearly every one the seeds 
of this variety, either green or ripe, are considered the 
most tender and delicate of all the varieties of the bean, 
and it is therefore universally grown, both for market and 
family use. The ripe seeds are kidney shaped, and of a 
dull white color. 

Jersey Extra Early Lima.— (See figure 19.) A. new- 
variety, said to be ten days earlier than any other sort 
grown in this vicinity. The pods have been in the New 
York market as early as July 30th, and sold at the rate 
of $3 per bushel (of jiods). In size, appearance and qual- 
ity it is much the same as the Large White Lima. 

Dreer's imin-oycd Lima. — The distinctive features of 
this bean are, early maturity, large yield and extra qualityc 
The bean itself is thick, and in shape more round than 
oval. 

Scarlet Runner. — A great favorite in European gar- 
dens, both as an ornamental plant and a useful vegetaWe. 
It grows to a height of nine or ten feet, producmg 
dazzling scarlet flowers from July to October. Used both 



VEGETABLES — BEAIS". 137 

as string beans and slielled. Seeds, when ripe, are lilac, 
mottled with black. A distinct species, Pliaseolus mul- 
tiflorus. 
Giant WaXi — Very productive, bearing pods from six 




' Fig. 19. — JERSEY EXTRA EARLY LIMA BEAN. 

to nine inches long, of waxy color, thick and fleshy, ten- 
der and of good flavor. The seeds are red when ripe. 

German Wax. — One of the best pole varieties, produc- 
ing large, flat pods. 

Horticultural or Speckled Cranberry.— One of the 

best of the pole sorts for use in pods. It is very produc- 



138 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

tive, and of excellent quality, whether served in the 
green state or shelled. The ripe beans are yellowish 
white, spotted with pink. 



"BEET.— {Beta vulgaris.) 

This is one of the leading and most valuable crops of 
our market gardens, and, next to Cabbages, is perhaps 
the most extensively grown as an early crop. The soil 
best suited is that which is rather light than otherwise, 
always provided that it is thoroughly enriched by ma- 
nure. We make little difference in the manner of work- 
ing or manuring the ground for any of our leading early 
crops. The ground must, in all cases, be thorouglily 
pulverized by plowing, subsoiling and harrowing, and 
when stable manure can be procured, plowed in at the 
rate of seventy-five to one hundred tons per acre. It 
must be borne in mind that this large quantity of manure 
is used where two crops are taken off the land in one sea- 
son, for Celery always follows crops of Early Beets, Cab- 
bages, Onions, etc. If stable manure cannot be had, the 
next best substitutes .must be used in the quantities 
specified in Chapter on Manures. As early in spring ns 
the ground becomes fit to work, the Beets are usually 
sown in row^s one foot apart, made by the "^marker," 
about three inches deep. We prefer to sow rather thickly 
by hand (not less than eight pounds per acre), for the 
reason that late frosts often kill off a portion of the young 
plants ; but when sown thickly, enough is generally left 
to make a crop which amply repays the difference of a 
few pounds of seed. After sowing, the seed is pressed 
in by the feet (see "Use of the Feet in Sowing and 
Planting," page 96), and if the weather is dry, the whole 
surface is also rolled, which firms the soil better around 
the seed and also leaves the ground level, making it easier 



I 



VEGETABLES — BEET. 139 

to be hoed. This firming of Beet seed is very impor- 
tant, as hundreds of acres, particularly of the Sugar Beet, 
grown on the farm for stock, are annually lost for want of 
this precaution. Beets are occasionally planted two feet 
apart, and the intervening row sown with Radishes. The 
Radishes mature early, and are used or sold off soon 
enough to allow more room for the Beet crop. It 
makes but little difference with us in the profits of the 
crop which way it is done, the results being nearly the same 
in each case. But in places where but limited quantities 
of vegetables can be disposed of, perhaps the latter 
plan is the best. The young Beets are thinned out to 
six inches apart when the rows are one foot apart, but 
when at two feet to only four inches, as they have more 
space between the rows for air. The thinnings of the 
Beets are used like Spinach, and, when carefully handled, 
they will always sell for more than tlie cost of the labor 
of thinning the crop. 

In this neighborhood. Beets sown first week in April 
are begun to be marketed the first week in June and en- 
tirely cleared off by July 1st, when the ground is pre- 
pared for the second crop. It will be understood that 
they are, at this early date, sold in an immature state, 
before the root has reached complete development ; but 
the great point is earliness, tlie public being well satis- 
fied to pay more for it half-grown, if early, than when 
full-grown, if late. 

This crop I have always considered a very profitable 
one, even at the seemingly low price of seventy-five cents 
per 100 roots, the average wholesale price in New York 
markets. But 80,000 roots are grown per acre when 
sown at one foot apart, and although the labor of pull- 
ing and bunching up is greater than in some crops, yet 
at seventy-five cents per 100 it will give an easy profit of 
$250 per acre. 

Beets are an excellent article to ship, and the price 



140 



GARDEi?"Iiq"G FOR PROFIT. 



paid in New York for the first lots from Savannali and 
Norfolk, etc., is often as high as $2 per 100 roots. 

The foregoing all relates to the crop in the green state 
for an early market, but they are also extensively grown 
for use in fall, winter and spring. For this they are 
usually sown later, often in some sections as a second 
crop, as late as July 1st, although in the Northern States 
the roots hardly develop 
enough when sown after 
June. The manner of sav- 
ing them in winter will be 
found under the head of Pre- 
serving Vegetables inAVinter. 





Fig. 20.— EGYPTIAN TURNIP BEET. 



Fig. 31.— ECLIPSE BEET. 



The really useful varieties of Beets are very limited in 
number, and are embraced in the following, arranged as 
usual, according to their merit as market sorts: 

Egyptian Turnip.— (See figure 20.) Now a standard 
sort, being from ten to twelve days earlier than the old 
Blood Turnip. The roots are large in size and of a rich, 
deep crimson color. From the smallness of the tops at 
least one-fourth more can be grown on the same space 
than of any other sort we have been in the habit of raising. 

Eclipse. — (See figure 21. ) A new variety that bids fair 
to rival the Egyptian as an early market sort. It is just 
about as early as the Egyptian, but is larger and of very 



VEGETABLES — BEET. 



141 



much finer quality. It makes a comparatively small top 
and tiie roots are of the globe form shown in the illus- 
tration. Our market gardeners in the vicinity of JSTew 
York claim that it is bound to be the leading market sort. 

Bastian's Blood Tsirnip, — After the ^ a 
Egyptian and Eclipse varieties, this is prob- \^^M^ 
ably the earliest Beet in cultivation. In ^*liltiP^ 
sha}?e it is very similar to the Early Blood 
Turnip described below. 

Early Blood Turnip, — k. well-known 
variety, following the Egyptian and Eclipse 
in earliness. It is a deep red color, and 
of excellent quality. 

Dewin^'s Improyed Blood Turnip.— This 

is simply an improved variety of the Early 
Blood Turnip, with the roots of a deep 
blood-red color, and fine form and flavor. 
An excellent market sort. 

Loiii?, Smootb Blood,— (See figure 22.) 
A great improvement on the common Blood 
Beet, being less strong and freer from root- 
lets, besides being a week earlier. It is now 
grown here to the entire exclusion of the 
other. The market demand, however, for 
early crops requires twice the quantity of 
round to that of long beets ; for late sales 
of barreled roots exactly the reverse quan- 
tities are needed. 

Swiss Cliard, — A distinct species from 
the common Beet, which is grown for its 
roots, while the former is cultivated solely for its leaves. 
The midrib of the leaf is stewed as Asparagus, the other 
portions of the leaf being used as Spinach. The outer 
leaves are pulled off as in gathering Ehubarb. It is 
largely grown in France and Switzerland. In this coun- 



Fiff. 23.— LONG, 

SMOOTH BLOOD 
BEET. 



142 GARDENIis'G FOR PROFIT. 

try it is now cultivated to some extent in private gar- 
dens only. Its handsome leaves are as attractive as many 
of our prized flower garden '^foliage plants," and uo 
doubt it would be much valued if we could only regard 
it without the idea of its being only a Beet. 



BOEECOLE OR KALE.—iBrassica oleracea. Var.) 

A variety of this, receiving the rather indefinite term 
of '^Sprouts," is extensively grown for the Northern 
markets, many acres of it being cultivated in the vicinity 
of New York. It is sown in the month of September in 
rows one foot apart, treated in everyway as Spinach, and 
is ready for use in early spring. It is difficult to keep in 
some soils in winter ; those of rather a light nature being 
the best. When successfully wintered over, it is a very 
profitable crop, not unfrequently selling for 1500 per acre. 
The variety thus grown is known in the seed stores as 
Dwarf German Greens. Another class of it is cultivated 
as we grow late Cabbage ; it is sown in the open ground 
in May, and planted out at distances, according to the 
variety, from two to three feet apart. Of all the Cabbage 
tribe this is the most tender and delicate, and it is sur- 
prising that it has never yet been wanted in quantity 
enough to make it a marketable vegetable, not one head 
being sold to one thousand of the coarse winter Cabbage. 
The varieties are very numerous ; those below described 
are all standard sorts. 

"Siberian Dwarf Curled Kale,'' »»I)wrrf German 
Greens,'* or "Sprouts." — (See figure 23.) The leaves 
are of a bluish orreen, resembling somewhat the foliage of 
the Euta Baga Turnip. It is of delicate flavor and in 
every way desirable. It is the popular market variety. 
This IS the kind grown exactly as Spinach ; it is culti- 
vated in immense (luantities South for K^orthern markets. 



VEGETABLES — BORECOLE. 



143 



Very Early Dwarf, — A new variety that is said to be 
of special excellence. The leaves are of a yellowish green 
color, very dwarf and finely curled. It grows very close 



to the ground. 



Dwarf Green Curled Scotch.— A dwarf variety, rarely 
exceeding eighteen inches in height, but spreading out 




Fig. 23.— GERMAN GREENS. 



under good cultivation to three feet in diameter. The 
leaves are beautifully curled and of a bright green. This 
variety is very hardy and will remain over winter in 
any place where the temperature does not fall below zero. 
It is most tender after being touched by sharp frost. This 
is the variety used in the famous Scotch dish of '^beef 
and greens." 

Purple Borecole. — Similar to the above in all respects 
except the color, which is a dull purple. This is the va- 



144 GARDENimi FOR PROFIT. 

riety most esteemed by the Germans. It is very hardy 
and is often seen in the markets of New York as late as 
January. 



BROCCOLI. — {Brassica oleracea. Var.) 

This vegetable is so closely allied to Cauliflower that it 
seems absurd to have ever divided them under different 
heads. Still, we persist in growing them under the names 
of Broccoli and Cauliflower, the Broccoli being planted 
for fall use, Cauliflower, on the other hand, being mostly 
planted for summer use, although it is well known that 
their seasons might be reversed without any marked dif- 
ference in the results. Like all of the Cabbage tribe. 
Broccoli, to grow it in perfection, requires the soil to be 
in the highest possible degree of fertility. The seed 
should be sown, in this district, in the early part of May, 
which will give plants large enough to be transplanted in 
July. Farther south the sowing should be delayed until 
June or July, and the transplanting delayed accordingly 
until August, September, or October. There is no doubt 
that in parts of the country where the thermometer does 
not fall below twenty or twenty-five degrees above zero. 
Broccoli may be had in perfection from November un- 
til March. A necessary condition of perfect development 
is a moist and rather cool atmosphere ; for this reason we 
only get the crop in fine condition, in this district, daring 
the cool and moist months of October and November. 
Owing often, however, to heat or dryness in the months of 
August and September, the crop becomes an entire failure, 
and for this reason, for market purposes, it is rather 
hazardous. When a good crop is made, however, it is 
very profitable, rarely bringing less than $8 per 100, 
or about 1800 per acre ; but as the crop in this sec- 
tion fails two seasons out of three, it is not considered a 



VEGETABLES — BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 145 

desirable one to plant. The plants of most of the varie- 
ties are set out two and a half by one and a half feet, or 
about 10,000 plants per acre. 

In this district, for market purposes, we confine our- 
selves to the first two varieties named below ; some 
others, however, are occasionally grown for family use. 

White i'ape. — Heads of medium size, close, compact, 
and of a creamy white color ; one of the most certain to 
head. 

Purple Cape. — Nearly similar in all respects to the 
White Cape, except in color, which is greenish-purple. 
This variety is rather hardier than the preceding, but its 
color renders it of less value in market. White Heads of 
the same quality bringing $1 to 12 more per 100. This 
is a mere matter of fancy in the buyers, however, as, when 
cooked, there is but little difference in its appearance 
from the White, and none whatever in the flavor. 

Early Walcheren. — This variety seems to produce its 
heads earlier than the preceding, but they are not usually 
so heavy or compact. This variety so closely resembles 
a Cauliflower that it is not easy to L=ay in what respect it 
differs from one. In England, where the Broccoli is 
much more grown than with us, this variety is sown 
every few weeks, in order to keep up a constant supply. 
The English catalogues enumerate some thirty or more 
varieties, and each year adds to the list. 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS.— (^rassica oleracea, Var.) 

This vegetable has never come into general use in this 
country, probably owing to its being too tender to stand 
the winters of the Northern States. Still, by sowing in 
April or May, and planting out in July, it may be had 



146 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



in fine condition until December; and, in the Southern 
States, may be had in use from November to March. 

Even in England, where it is 
very extensively grown, it is 
not much raised for market, 
being mainly cultivated for 
private use. Its cultivation is 
very simple, and it can be grown 
on almost any soil. Plant about 
two feet apart, and cultivate as 
for Cabbages . 

Brussels Sprouts are readily 
distinguished from all other 
varieties of the Cabbage tribe 
by tlie sprouts or buds, about 
the size of walnuts, which grow 
thickly around the stem. These 
Fig. 24.— BRUSSELS sPKouTs. sprouts arc the parts used, and 
are equal in tenderness and flavor to Cauliflower or Broc- 
coli. 




CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 

Cabbage is much easier managed than Cauliflower, and 
is consequently more certain of giving a crop, even under 
unfavorable conditions. The first condition of success 
with the Cabbage crop, like that of nearly every other 
vegetable, is the right kind of soil. 

The best soil for Cabbage is a rather sandy loam, not 
less than ten inches deep, the subsoil under which should 
be sand or gravel — a clayey or stiff subsoil is uncongenial 
to almost every crop. It may be superfluous to say that 
unless the soil for Cabbage is drained artificially or natur- 
ally (by a sand or gravel subsoil), that success is impos- 
sible. This, of course, is true of nearly every crop 
grown. The proper pulverizing of the soil is a matter of 



VEGETABLVJS — CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 147 

the utmost importance. Although many of the hirge 
market gardens in Enghmd are yet dug with the spade 
or digging fork, it is rare that anything else is used with 
us than the plow and harrow. We ourselves are so 
satisfied of the superiority of the plow as a pulverizer 
of the soil over the spade or digging fork, that we would 
not allow our grounds, for any purpose, to be dug, even 
if do.ne for nothing, and no digging is ever done on our 
grounds in any spot where horses can be worked. 
Experience has showm us that it is always beneficial for 
the Cabbage crop to plow land in the fall, not only be- 
cause when thus thrown up in ridges it gets pulverized by 
the action of the frost, but also that the turning up of 
the soil exposes the larvae and eggs of insects also to the 
frost, Avhich tends greatly to lessen their numbers the suc- 
ceeding year. 

Manure for the early Cabbage crop should alw^ays be 
spread on broadcast, and in quantity not less than 100 
cart loads, or seventy-five tons to the acre, which will 
leave it^ when spread, about two or three inches in thick- 
ness. It is not unusual that much choice can be made 
in stable manure, but when such is the case, equal por- 
tions of cow and horse manure are preferable, not that 
there is much difference in value, weight for weight, but 
that it is advantageous to have the manure of the cow 
stable mixed with that of the horse, so as to prevent the 
violent heating of the horse manure, which, if not 
repeatedly turned, will generate heat so as to cause it to 
"fire fang" or burn, which renders it comparatively use- 
less. Always bear in mind that the more thoroughly 
rotted and disintegrated manure can be had, the better 
will be the results. AVhen manure is thoroughly rotted 
and short, it may be turned in by the plow just as it 
is spread on the land, but if long, it is necessary to 
draw it into the furrow ahead of the plow, so that it is 
completely covered in. After plowing in the manure, 



148 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

and before the ground is harrowed, our bosfc cTowers in 
the vicinity of New York sow from 400 to 500 pounds oi 
guano or bone dust, and then harrow it in deeply, and 
smooth over with the back of the harrow, when the bed 
is ready to receive the plants. 

In the vicinity of New York, and, in fact, now wher- 
ever the business of market gardening is intelligently 
followed, the two best kinds of Cabbage for the earli/ 
crop are recognized to be the '^ Early Jersey Wakefield" 
and ''Henderson's Early Summer" for general culture, 
and to describe others of the scores' named would be only 
confusiuor. *' Jersey Wakefield" is the earliest and a 
little the smallest, and is planted usually twenty-eight 
inches between the rows and sixteen inches between 
the plants, thus requiring from 10,000 to 12,000 plants 
per acre. " Early Summer " grows a little larger, 
and should be planted thirty inches apart and eighteen 
inches between plants, requiring from 8,000 to 10,000 
per acre. The reason for placing the rows so wide apart 
and the plants so close in the rows, is to admit of a row 
of Lettuce, Spinach or Radishes between the rows of 
Cabbage. All of these vegetables mature quickly, and 
can be cut out before the Cabbage grows enough to inter- 
fere with them, and it is necessary that this double crop 
should be taken off the land so as to help pay for the 
manure that is so lavishly used, but which is absolutely 
necessary to produce a good crop of Cabbages. Where 
early Cabbages are grown alone, then it would be better 
to plant about two or two and a half feet each way, so 
that cross cultivation can be done ; and also in cases 
where manure in sufficient quantities is not attainable, 
they are better thus planted when manure has to be 
applied in the hill. If applied in the hill, a good shov- 
elful of stable manure should be used to each, mixing it 
well with the soil, but raising the 'Miill," so-called, no 
higher than the general surface. 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 149 

There has been a want long felt by many of the market 
gardeners and truckers for a variety of Cabbage which 
would come in after the Early Summer and before any oi 
the late sorts, but such a sort, with all the characteristics 
of the Henderson's Early Summer, of standing without 
bursting, of being later, and consequently larger, is hard 
to obtain. Through the medium, however, of the same 
good friend who first brought to our notice*the Hender- 
son's Early Summer, Mr. Abraham Vau Sicklen, of Long 
Island, we think we will be able, within another year, to 
present to the public a variety of Cabbage which will 
exactly supply this long-felt want. That is, of a Cabbage 
to succeed the Early Summer, being about two weeks 
later than the average crop of that variety, larger, and 
with all its good characteristics of standing in the field 
without bursting and of regularity in habit, close grow- 
ing and sure heading. I have not yet named this variety, 
as I wish another season's test of it before deciding to 
give it to the public ; but if it should prove itself during 
another season as valuable as in the last two it will be a 
decided acquisition. 

The raising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants 
will, for **^wmtered over" plants, be found under the 
head of **Uses and Management of Cold Frames," and 
for spring plants under the head of *' Spring Raising of 
Cabba2:e, Cauliflower and Lettuce Plants." 

WHAT DEGREE OF FROST WILL CABBAGE AIlTD CAULI- 
FLOWER STAND IN THE FRAMES BEFORE BEING COV- 
ERED WITH THE SASH ? 

This is often a source of anxiety to beginners. Much 
depends on the condition of the plants ; it sometimes 
happens that after the transplanting is finished to Octo- 
ber (we usually tegin the transplanting in the frames 
about the 15th), that we have a continuation of com- 



150 GARDEIs^IKG FOR PROFIT. 

paratively warm weather, which induces a quick and 
soft growth in the plants, whicli, of course, renders them 
very susceptible to injury from frost. When in that 
condition we have seen them injured when the thermo- 
meter only marked twenty-seven above zero, or but five 
degrees of frost ; while if gradually hardened by being 
exposed to chilly nights, they would receive no injury, 
even when the thermometer marks ten or twelve above 
zero. This will be well understood when Ave remember 
that in midwinter, when covered with sash alone, they 
sustain a cold often for days together of ten degrees 
heloio zero, but then of course they have been gradually 
inured to it. In sections of the country where the ther- 
mometer falls to fifteen or twenty degrees below zero, it 
will be necessary to use straw mats or shutters over the 
glass. At all times from the time of putting sashes on 
in fall until taking them off in spring (which is usually 
from March 15th to April 1st), abundant ventilation 
should be given, so as to render them as hardy as pos- 
sible. The sure indication that they are in the " frost 
proof" condition is, when the leaves show a bluish color, 
which they get when they have been gradually hardened 
off. Although the most of the Jersey market gardeners 
still use the cold frames for growing the bulk of their 
early Cabbage crop, of late years the system of spring 
sowing and transplanting, and sometimes even without 
transplanting, is also used to a considerable extent. For 
full instructions on this point, see page 51, ** Spring 
Eaising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce." 

In the latitude of New York, Cabbage planting is 
usually begun about the 25th of March and finished by 
middle of April. It must always be borne in mind that 
Cabbage, being a very hardy plant, when wanted for an 
early crop, its setting out in spring should be done in 
any section as soon as the land is dry enough to work. 
As a guide, we may say that whenever spring crops o£ 



YE-GETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWEK. 151 

Rye, Wheat or Oats can be sown, Cabbage may safely 
be planted in the open field, for if plants have been 
properly hardened they will not be injured after being 
planted out even by eight or ten degrees of frost. 

The conditions in the different Southern States are 
so varied that it is not easy to give directions. It may 
be taken, however, as a general rule that in any section 
of the country where the thermometer does not fall 
loiver that fifteen aiove zero, the seed for Cabbage plants 
should be sown about October 1st, left (without cover- 
ing) in the seed-beds all winter, and transplanted to the 
open ground as soon as it is fit to work in spring, 
say January or February. In sections where the fall 
weather continues fine into November, transplanting is 
done in that month to where the crop is to mature. Great 
loss IS often occasioned in mild seasons in the Southern 
States, by Cabbages, particularly the favorite variety — 
** Early Summer " — running to seed. As a remedy against 
this clanger I would advise sowing from two to four weeks 
later than the usual time, in such a way as they could be 
covered in cold niglits only with muslin, or, what is better, 
the new protecting cloth ; these will answer all the pur- 
poses of sashes at one-tenth of their cost. I refer to 
this cloth more fully in another portion of this work. 

After planting in the field, no crop takes so kindly to 
hoeing or cultivating as the Cabbage. In ten days after 
the planting is finished, cultivation should begin. If the 
Cabbages have been set two or two and a half feet apart 
each way, then the horse cultivator is the best pulver= 
izer, but if a crop has been sown or planted betw^een the 
rows of Cabbage, then a hand or wheel hoe can only be 
used — we ourselves now use the Planet Jr. Wheel Hoe 
exclusively, and find it a saving of three-fourths in labor, 
with the work better done. 

The price at which early Cabbage is now sold varies so 
much at different dates, and in different parts of the 



162 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

country, that it is impossible to give anytbing like accu- 
rate figures, tbe range being all tlie way from $2 to $13 
per 100. Perhaps 14 would be a fair average for 
** Wakefield" and 15 for *' Early Summer," so that 
counting 11,000 as the average per acre of the former 
and 9,000 of the latter, we have respectively $440 per 
acre for '* Wakefield" and 1450 for '^ Early Summer." 
These are the wholesale prices for large markets like 
New York. In smaller cities, where the product is sold 
direct to the consumer, one-third more would likely be 
obtained. 

LATE CABBAGES 

are such as mature during the months of September, 
October and November, the seed for which is sown m 
open ground in May or June. Perhaps the best date for 
sowing for main crop is about the 1st of June. We al- 
ways prefer to sow Cabbage seed for this purpose in 
rows ten or twelve inches apart, treading in the seed 
with the feet, after sowing and before covering ; we then 
level with a rake lengthwise with the rows and roll or 
beat down with the back of a spade, so as to exclude 
the air from the soil and from the seed. Sown in this 
way, Cabbage seed will come up strongly in the driest 
weather, and is less likely to be afflicted with the black 
flea than if it made a feeble growth. When the plants 
get too tall, mow two or three inches off the tops, which 
Avill make them stouter and stronger rooted. As the 
ground used for late Cabbage only yields one crop, unless 
manure is cheap and abundant, it will not often pay to 
use it in the profusion required for early Cabbages, 
so that it is usual to manure m the hill, as is done for 
early crops, if with stable manure, but when that is not 
attainable, some concentrated fertilizer, such as bone dust 
or guano should be used, giving a good handful for each 
hill, but being careful, of course, to mix it well with the 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AXD CAULIFLOWER. 153 

soil for about nine or ten inclies deep and wide. In this 
way about 300 pounds per acre Vvill be needed, when 
6,000 or 7,000 phmts are set on an acre. In our prac- 
tice we find nothing better than pure bone dust aiid 
guano mixed together. 

In transplanting Cabbages from the seed-bed to tlie 
open field in summer, the work is usually done in a dry 
and hot season — end of June or July — and here again 
we give our oft-repeated warning of the absolute neces- 
sity of having every plant properly firmed. If the plant- 
ing is well done with the dibber, it may be enough, but 
it is often not well done, and as a measure of safet}", it is 
always best to turn back on the rows after planting and 
press alongside of each plant with the foot. This is 
quickly done, and it besides rests the planter, so that he 
can start on the next row with greater vigor. In some 
sections of the country, particularly in the New England 
States, six or eight Cabbage seeds are planted in the 
hills, and when of the height of two or three inches, are 
thinned out to one plant in each hill. This we think 
not only a slower method, but is otherwise objectionable, 
inasmuch as it compels the manure to be placed for three 
or four weeks in the ground before the plant can take 
it up, to say nothing of the three or four weeks' culture 
necessary to be done before the seedlings in the hill get 
to the size of the plants when set out. The cultivation 
of late Cabbage is, in all respects, similar to that of early, 
except as it is usually planted alone ; the work of cultiva- 
tion is done entirely by the horse cultivator, the rows and 
plants in the rows being, according to the kind, from 
twenty-four to thirty inches apart. There are a great 
number of kinds offered in the different seed lists, but 
experienced cultivators confine themselves to but very few 
kinds. These we give in the order m which they are 
most approved : *^ Henderson's Selected Flat Dutch," 
"American Drumhead," and ^'Marblehead Mammoth." 



154 GARDENING FOli PROFIT. 

Ill addition to these, the ^^American Drumhead Savoy" 
is grown to a considerable extent, and it is really surprising 
that it is not grown to the exclusion of nearly all other 
sorts, as it attains to nearly as much weight of crop, is 
much more tender, and finer in flavor. The "Green 
Scotch " and ^' Brown German Kale" belong to the Cab- 
bage family, but do not form heads. The curled leaves 
of the whole plant can be used, and are, like the 
** Savoy," much finer in flavor than the plain headed cab- 
bages, particularly after having been subjected to frost. 

KEEPING CABBAGES I2T WINTER. 

It is best to leave late Cabbages out as late as possible, 
provided they can be lifted before being frozen in. In this 
latitude they can be safely left out until the third week 
in November. They arc then dug or pulled up, accord- 
ing to the nature of the soil, and turned upside down — 
the roots up, the heads down — just where they have been 
growing, and the heads placed closely together in beds, 
six or eio'ht feet v/ide, with allevs of about same width 
between, care being taken to have the ground leveled, so 
that the Cabbages will set evenly together. They can be 
left in this way for three or four weeks, or as long as the 
ground remains so that it can be dug in the alleys 
between the beds, the soil from which is thrown in on 
the beds of Cabbage, so that when finished they have a 
covering of six or seven inches of soil, or sufficient to 
cover up the roots completely. Sometimes they are cov- 
ereci up immediately on being lifted, b}^ plowing a fur- 
row, shoveling it out wide enough to receive the heads, 
then plowing so as to cover up, and so on till beds six 
or eight feet wide are thus formed. This plan is the 
quickest, but it has the disadvantage, if the season proves 
mild, of having the Cabbages covered up by the soil too 
soon, and hence more danger of decay. After the ground 
is frozen, stable litter, straw or leaves, to the depth of 



VEGETABLES— CABBAGE AXD CAULIFLOWER. 155 

three or four inches, should be thrown over the Cabbaofe 
beds, so as to prevent excessive freezing, and to facilitate 
the getting at the Cabbages in hard weather. 

IKSECTS ATTACKIIS^G THE CABBAGE. 

The insects that attack the Cabbage tribe are various, 
and for some of them we regret to say that we are almost 
helpless in arresting their ravages. Youn^ Cabbage 
plants in fall or in hot-beds in spring, are often troubled 
with the Aphis, or, as it is popularly known, the '^ G-reen 
fly," or ^* Green louse." This is easily destroyed by hav- 
ing the plants dusted over once or twice with tobacco 
dust. This same insect, of a blue color, is often disas- 
trous to the growing crop in the field, and, on its first 
appearance, tobacco dust should be applied, as, of course, 
if the Cabbage is headed up, it could not be used ; hence, 
it is always best to apply it as a preventive remedy. 

Another insect which attacks them in these stages is a 
species of slug, or small caterpillar — a green, glutinous 
insect, about one-fourth or one-half an inch in length. 
This is not quite so easily destroyed as the other, but will 
succumb to a mixture of one part white hellebore to 
four parts lime dust, sprinkled on thick enough as to 
slightly whiten the plants. 

This same remedy we have found to be the most effica- 
cious in preventing the ravages of the ^^ Black Flea," or 
*^ Jumping Jack," that is often so destructive to Cabbage 
plants sown or planted in open ground during May and 
June, but in this case ics aj^plication may have to be 
repeated daily often for two weeks. 

Another most troublesome insect is the Cahiage cater- 
pillar, which often attacks the crop when just beginning 
to head. This is the larva of a species of small white 
butterfly, which deposits its eggs on the crop in May or 
June. When fields of Cabbage are isolated, or where 
neighbors can be found to act in unison, the best plan is 



15G GARDENT:N"a FOR PROFIT. 

to catch the butterflies with an insect-catching net as 
soon as they show themselves. This is the most effective 
and quickest way to get rid of them. However, if that 
has been neglected, the caterpillar can be destroyed by 
dusting white hellebore on the Cabbages, but, of course, 
this cannot be done when the heads are matured enough 
to be ready to use, as the hellebore is to some extent poi- 
sonous, though if used when the plants are about half 
grown, it will do no harm, as the rains will have washed 
it off sufficiently by the time they head up. The insects 
here described are not, probably, all that afflict the Cab- 
bage crop. A letter just received from a gentleman in 
Montgomery, Alabama, says that the young Cabbage 
plants in that region are often swept off in twenty- four 
hours by a small green worm — a species of slug or cater- 
pillar, no doubt. The remedy for all such is white helle- 
bore powder, which had better be dusted on the plants 
once a week, as a preveritive, before the insect makes its 
appearance. In fact, all remedies against insects are best 
used as preventives, or, at least, on their first appearance. 

But the insect enemies that attack the roots of the 
Cabbage are not so easy to destroy. In fact, with the 
Wire Worm and Cabbage Maggot we are almost helpless, as 
far as my experience has gone. For the latter, which is 
the worst enemy, a remedy has recently been recom- 
mended to me which as yet I have not tested. It is to 
make a hole with the dibber five or six inches deep, close 
to each root, and drop into it nine or ten drops of bi- 
sulphide of carbon, closing up the hole again. 

Last year the Cabbage and Cauliflower in our '^ trial 
grounds" were attacked by the Cabbage maggot at the 
roots early in May. A small handful of Peruvian guano 
was at once strewn around each plant -and hoed in around 
the roots ; this at once started an unusual vigor of 
growth, which sustained the plants until they matured 
excellent heads. Understand, the guano did not injure 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 157 

the insect ; it only enabled the Cabbage to outgrow its 
attack. 

This season (1886), after plowing our Cabbage 
ground, w^e gave it a heavy dressing of lime, thick 
enough to almost completely whiten the ground. This 
was thoroughly harrowed in, and to further help against 
the attack of the maggot, after the plants had been set 
out three or four weeks, we removed the earth around 
the stem, and again sprinkled a little lime around it. 
This has completely stopped the attack of the maggots, 
for, in a portion of a neighbor's field adjoining, the mag- 
gots have nearly destroyed the crop. 

But one of the best preventives against the maggot is 
to plant early, so that, the plants get strong enough to 
overcome their attack. Our market gardeners here 
rarely have trouble with their main early crops, which 
are planted last of March or first week in April. In our 
own trial grounds, having to wait until our samples come 
in, we do not get our seeds of early Cabbage and Cauli- 
flower sown until first week in March, which is a month 
too late, hence the liability of ihe too tender plants to the 
attack of the maggot. One of the most common mis- 
takes of the inexperienced market gardener is, to delay 
the planting of early Cabbage too late. Many of them in 
this latitude delay planting until May, which, if the 
ground is dry enough to work, had far better be done in 
April. 

For the destruction of the insect which causes the 
excrescence known as **club root" in Cabbage, a heavy 
dressing of lime in fall and spring will check it to a great 
extent. In fact, on lands adjacent to the shores of New 
York Bay, where the soil is mixed with oyster shells, 
*'club root" is rarely seen. Cabbage having been grown 
on some fields, successively, for fifty years, without a trace 
of it being seen, showing that the insect which causes the 
**^club root" cannot exist in contact with lime ; for it is 



158 GARDEI^ING FOR PROFIT. 

found on lands where there is no oyster shell deposit, a 
quarter of a mile distant, where Cabbages cannot be grown 
two years in succession on the same land, unless heavily 
dressed with lime, and even then, it is always deemed 
safest never to plant Cabbages two years in succession on 
the same ground ; for, while such crops as onions show 
but little benefit by rotation with other crops. Cabbages 
perhaps more than anything else, are benefited by such 
alternation, and when it can be done, nothing is better 
than to let the Cabbage crop be alternated with a green 
crop, such as German Millet, Timothy or Clover, or 
else a crop of Oats or Rye. 

This is the method pursued by many of the Long 
Island market gardeners, who grow for the New York 
market, where their lands are clieap enough to allow 
them to do so. But the gardeners of Hudson County, 
New Jersey, which is in sight of New York City, whose 
lands now are limited in area, and for which an average 
of 150 per acre rent is paid per annum, cannot well 
afford to let their lands lay thus comparatively idle, and, 
in consequence, do not now raise as fine crops as the lands 
thus *'resjjad" by the grass or grain crops. 

If the land for the Cabbage crop is of a kind suitable 
to grow a good crop of Corn or Potatoes, and is tilled or 
fertilized in the manner advised, it is rare indeed tliat a 
crop will fail to head, if the plants are in good condition 
and have been properly planted, unless they are attacked 
by the maggot or "club root." In our ti-ial ground, 
where over a hundred different sorts of Cabbage are 
tested each year, we have found that every kind of Cab- 
bage tested, early or late, has produced solid heads, 
showing that tvJien the conditions are right, all hinds of 
Cahhages will head up and prod ace a crop, though, of 
course, some are earlier, larger and heavier than others 
— hence, the value of known selected kinds. 

A circumstance came under our notice in the summer 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 159 

of 1882, which well illustrates the necessity for care in 
planting. We had sold, some time in February, a large lot 
of our '* Early Bummer" Cabbage seed to two market 
gardeners in Rochester, N. Y. The orders were filled from 
the same bag of seed. Some time about the end of June one 
of the market gardeners wrote, saying that he had evi- 
dently got some spurious kind of Cabbage from us, as his 
neighbor was marketing his crop, while in his own field 
of ten acres, he had not a head fit to cut, nor was there 
any appearance of their ever being so, he thought. Inves- 
tigatiim showed that no Maggot, '^ club root," or other 
insect w^as affecting the roots ; the land was nearly iden- 
tical with that which had made a successful crop, and 
had been equally well manured and cultivated. So the 
only probable solution of the matter was, that the plants 
in the case of failure had been loosely planted and had 
failed to make a prompt start, as in the other case 
where the planting had been properly done, so that while 
the one lot advanced without a check, the growth of the 
other lot was arrested. This was undoubtedly the case, 
for there could be no cause for the difference unless on 
some such hypothesis. But there was a foijtunate sequel 
to the case. It luckily happened that a heavy rainstorm 
occurred while the Cabbages were yet in this unheaded 
condition. This started, as it were, a second growth, 
which resulted in their forming splendid heads by August 
1st, at a time when Cabbages were scarce, which, 
luckily for the owner, brought a much higher price than 
if they had matured at the proper season in June or July. 
The result was fortunate for us who had sold the seed, 
for had it not rained so opportunely, the crop might 
never have headed up, and it would then have been hard 
to convince the man that he had not been furnished 
with a spurious kind of seed. What has been advised for 
Cabbage" crops, either early or late, is exactly the culture 
necessary for a crop of Cauliflower, except that Cauli- 



160 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

flower, being a plant of more delicate constitution, it re- 
quires to be more carefully handled ; for, where the 
Cabbage plants in the cold frames will safely keep over 
winter in this latitude with no covering but the glass 
sash, Cauliflower plants require the use of straw mats 
over the sashes, as the plant is much more easily hurt by 
frost. In fact, in our increased experience, we find that 
it is better not to keep the plants through the winter ; 
those sown in February and transplanted into cold frames 
in March, and planted in the open ground in April, as 
recommended in the Chapter headed "Spring Raising 
of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce," doing rather 
better and costing much less in labor. The plants, 
however, must be started early enough, so that 
they can be set out not later than middle of April, 
for if not rooted well before w^arm Aveather sets in, they 
will either "button" — that is, form small stunted 
flowers — or else fail entirely to head up. Cauliflower 
delights in a cool atmosphere, and never does well 
when the season is hot and dry, unless complete irriga- 
tion can be given when the plant is about half grown. 
If this can be done the crop is certain. We ourselves 
grew in this manner nearly an acre for many years, the 
crop selling for an average of $1,^00 per acre annually, 
and that was before we had introduced the now famous 
variety known as " Henderson's Early Snowball," which 
is ahead of all other kinds in its certainty to make a 
crop. The next in succession to this, is the " Early 
Erfurt," which is again succeeded by the "Early Paris," 
but neither of these in any respect is equal to the 
"Snowball." For late crop, the varieties known as 
"Algiers" and "Erfurt" are the kinds usually grown. 
The plants are obtained by sowing at the same dates as 
for late Cabbages. It is planted three feet each way and 
cultivated exactly as late Cabbages and often sells as high 
as $25 per 100 in November and December. We are ot 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWEK. 161 

the opinion, however, that the " Snowball," of which 
twice the number can be grown per acre, will prove a 
more profitable crop even for late, than the " Algiers," as 
it is assuredly more certain to form heads. It is not 
once in twenty yeai's that a variety of vegetables or 
fruit makes such an advance in earliness and quality as 
this "Snowball" Cauliflower, and we have much satis- 
faction in the knowledge that we were the first to bring 
it into cultivation about five years ago. It is now 
grown to almost the entire exclusion of all other early 
kinds of Cauliflower in this country, and hundreds have 
succeeded, both North and South, in raising a crop from 
this variety, who had previously completely failed with 
all other kinds. In Cauliflowers, as in Cabbages, it is 
folly to attempt the experiment of many kinds. Long 
experience has taught us that two or three of each for 
early and second early is all sufficient. Although our 
seed catalogues enumerate scores of kinds, gardeners who 
know what they are about, fight shy of all except those 
whose merit has been proved beyond any question of a 
doubt. For this reason we only give the names of such 
as we h^ioiu to be the best. 

As yet nearly all Caulifloiuer seed is imported, as we 
have not yet been successful in raising it here so as to 
give satisfactory results, our climate seeming to be un- 
suited for the growth of the seed. But Oaihage seed is 
almost exclusively grown here. Though the imported 
seed costs less than half the price, we rarely have found 
it safe enough to risk it for market garden crops ; the 
American grown Cabbage seeds should be exclusively 
used. 



162 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

VARIETIES OF CABBAGE -Early. 

Early Jersey Wakefield. — The first notoriety that thir, 
variety attained was when we first wrote '^ Gardening for 
Profit." That was nearly twenty years ago, and since 
then it has deservedly taken the first place as an early 
market variety. To most growers the merits and char- 
acteristics of the variety are so well known as to hardly 
need repeating here, but for the benefit of those who may 
not be familiar with it^ we would say that it is univers- 




Fio:. 25.— EAELY JERSEY WAKEFIEXD CABBAGE. 

ally considered the test early Cabbage in cultivation. 
Among its merits may be mentioned its large size of head, 
small outside foliage, and its uniformity m producing a 
crop. The heads are pyramidal in shape, having a 
blunted or rounded peak. 

A few 3^ears after the introduction of the Wakefield 
Cabbage, we found that it bioke into over a dozen sub- 
varieties, of varying size of leaf and shape of head, and, 
wo«:se than all, of varying earlmess. No matter how 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE. 163 

carefully we selected the heads that we used for seed, the 
same difficulty occurred. A few miles inland, some- 
where near the Orange Mountain, Kew Jersey, we found 
that an old German was always ahead of us in having the 
first Wakefields in New York market, and these, too, of 
a uniformity in shape that none of us nearer the city 
could produce. All inducements to get him to sell seed 
were- disregarded, and year after year he kep.t the lead. 
Several plans were laid to circumvent him, such as order- 
ing a hundred of his Cabbages with roots on. But old 
Carl was not to be caught so. He filled the order to the 
letter, making the buyer pay roundly for the roots, but 
took the liberty of first dipping them in boiling water ! 
But one day he invited a friend and countryman to see 
his wonderful Cabbages as they grew. This was a fatal 
day for Carl's monopoly, for his friend had his eyes about 
him. and observed that several of the stumps from which 
the earliest heads had been cut, were marked with a 
stake, as were a few of the choicest shape, as yet uncut. 
The secret was out. Carl's success had been gained by 
persistently, year after year, selecting the earliest and 
finest heads ; taking up the stumps from which they 
were cut, he planted them carefully, and, removing the 
young shoots produced from the stumps, he treated them 
exactly as we treat cuttings of a flower; that is, by plant- 
ing the slip in the soil, watering it freely, and shading it 
until it rooted. After these cuttings or shoots of the 
Cabbage w^ere rooted, they were planted in the usual Cab- 
bage-frame, covered with glass in winter, set out in 
spring, like a plant from the seed, and next July ripened 
seed. This process is too expensive and slow to follow 
for raising Cabbage seed in quantity, but it is now used 
by careful growers to produce pure and improved stock 
from which to raise seed. 



164 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



Henderson's Early Summer, — This peerless variety 
orio'inated with Mr. Abraham Van Sickleii, of Jamaica, 
Long Island, N. Y., (to whom I paid IGOO for twenty 
pounds of the seed), but was named and first introduced 
by me in 1874. The Early Summer heads about ten 
days later than the Jersey Wakefield, but being of over 
double the size, it may be classed as the best large early 
Cabbage. In weight it is equal to most of the late vari- 




Fig. 26.— Henderson's early summer cabbage. 

eties, and its short outer leaves enable it to be planted as 
close as the Wakefield, or at the rate of about 10,000 to 
12;000 to the acre, while the Early Flat Dutch, Win- 
ningstadt, etc., producing no larger heads, can only be 
grown at the rate of 8,000 to the acre. It is equally 
valuable to use as a late sort, as, when sown and planted 
at the proper time for late Cabbage to be used in winter, 
we consider it has no superior. 

Premier. — A variety of quite recent introduction, 
exceedingly early, and much valued as a market sort. 



VEGETABLES — CABBAGE. 165 

The heads are somewliat smaller thau the Wakefield, but, 
as it forms very small outer leaves, it can be planted one- 
third closer — fifteen or eighteen inches apart each way, 
or from 14,000 to 16,000 to the acre. 

Early WtiinsiififStadt,— This is really a second early 
variety, coming in about three weeks later than any of 
the above. It is an excellent sort, however, where first 
earliness is not the object, as it heads uniformly and is of 
large size, often weighing twenty pounds. It is a dis- 
tinct variety; head pyramidal, the outer leaves spiral and 
spreading. It requires to be planted wider than the 
early sorts. For this reason, together with its compara- 
tive lateness, it is not a favorite in gardens where two 
crops are grown in one season. 

Early Flat Dutch. — A very dwarf variety, having 
large round heads, almost flat on top. It is a very excel- 
lent variety for a succession crop, being two or three 
weeks behind the earliest sorts, but is now almost sup- 
planted by the Early Summer. 



CABBAGE.— Late. 

Selected Late Flat Dutch.— (See figure 27.) An 
excellent standard variety, making large flat heads, very 
solid, and an excellent keeper for late winter use. Al- 
though it grows larger than the "' Early Summer," yet as 
it has to be planted one-third wider apart, it gives no more 
weight per acre. It is very largely grown as an early fall 
sort. It is very tender and of excellent flavor, and is 
largely used for Sauer Kraut. 

Fottler's Improved Rrunswick. — A second early and 
late variety, used originally by the Boston gardeners, but 
which is now cultivated quite generally all over the 
country. It produces large heads of excellent quality. 



lOG GARDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. 

Itlarblehead itlammoth Drumhead. — Probably the 
largest variety of Cabbage in cultivation, specimens 
often growing to weigh sixty pounds. In good soil and 
"with proper culture it will average thirty pounds. The 
heads are round and somewhat irregular in shape. It 
should be cultivated with the plants four feet apart each 
way. 

Filder Kraut. — This resembles the Winningstadt, but 




Fig. 27.— SELECTED LATE FLAT DUTCH CABBAGE. 

is larger and more pointed. Also largely grown for Sauer 
Kraut. 

American Drumhead Savoy. — This is the largest of 
the Savoy class, and is the sort most generally cultivated 
for market. The head is large, spherical, very solid, 
compact and of a yellowish-green color, and, like all of 
the Savoy varieties, is of excellent flavor, far surpassing 
that of any other late Cabbage. Still, such is the force 
of habit, that the public do not purchase one Savoy for 
every thousand of the coarse Drumhead Cabbages, al- 



VEGETABLES — CAULIFLOWER. 



167 



though the di^erence in quality between the two is as 
great as between the fox grape of the woods and the 
cultivated Dehiware. 
Grown m fall and al- 
lowed to be touched 
by frost, it is one of 
the most delicious of 
all vegetables. (See 
figiire 28.) 

Red Dutch.— This 
is used almost exclu- 
sively for pickling. It 
is one of the hardiest 
of all Cabbages, and 
when preserved as di- 
rected for the others, 
will keep later in the 

season than any of them. It is slow to mature, however, 
and requires a richer soil for its perfect development. 

Mammoth Rock Red, — A new large-growing selected 
strain of the old Red Cabbage, the heads of which will 
average twelve pounds each. 




Fig. 28. —AMERICAN DRUMHEAD SAVOY 
CABBAGE. 



-♦o«- 



CAULIFLOWER. 



As the cultivation of Cauliflower is almost identical 
with that of Cabbage, and as these are two of the m.ost 
important of all crops to the market gardener, very full 
instructions are given under '^ How to grow Cabbage and 
Cauliflower," on page 51. 

Henderson's Early Snowball.— (See figure 29). This 
vanety, introduced six years ago by me, is now the lead- 
ing early variety. We have found it to be not only the 



168 GARDEXIXCr FOR PROFIT. 

earliest of all Cauliflowers, but it is more certain to make 
a liead than any other variety we have ever grown. 
Soivn March 1st in our trial grounds in Jersey City 
(which, however, is a month too late), at the same time 
and under the same conditions with other kinds, heads 
of the Early Snowball measuring nine inches in diameter 
have been ready to market by June lOtli, one week before 
any other sort. From its dwarf growth and short outer 
leaves, this variety has been found to be peculiarly well 
adapted for forcing under glass, and for this purpose no 
other variety is now so largely grown. It is also begin- 
ning to be used for the fall crop of Cauliflower, for which 




Fig. 29. — Henderson's early snowball CAULrFLOWER. 

it is equally well adapted as for the early crop. From 
12,000 to 13,000 are planted on an acre. This variety 
is a very shy seed-bearer, and the consequent high price 
of the seed has induced unprincipled dealers in many 
sections ol the conntry to substitute spurious sorts. In 
our trial grounds we found that in a test of ten of these 
samples purporting to be the true " Snowball/' not one 
was correct, and nearly all were worthless. 



VEGETABLES — CARDOOX. 1G9 

Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt.— This line sort is a dwarf, 
compact, growing kind, producing uniformly large 
heads. The leaves grow larger and not so close as the 
Snowball, besides it is not so early. 

Extra Early Paris. — This well-known variety is 
equally meritorious in all respects with the Erfurt, ex- 
cept that it requires more s]3ace to grow in, as it forms 
larger heads. 

Half Early Paris or Nonpareil, — A useful variety for 
succession crop. The dithculty with Cauliflowers for 
market is, that the whole crop comes in and must be sold 
in a space of two or three weeks, unless we have a suc- 
cession of varieties. 

Le Xormaiiil's Short Stemmed. — A large late va:iety, 
producing well-formed heads of excellent quality. 

Large Late Algiers. — An excellent late variety, now 
coming into very general favor on Long Island, New 
York, and other Cauliflower-growing districts. Enor- 
mous quantities of this variety are annually grown for 
market and pickling, with varying results, sometimes 
selling as high as $25 per 100, and again as low as $3. It 
is usually planted quite wide — three by three feet each 
way^and worked by horse cultivation. It is a good 
plan to break and turn doAvn the leaves of Cauliflower 
over the head as it is developed. This not only keeps it 
whiter,- but prevents its spreading. 



CABBOON. — [Cynara Cardunculus.) 

A vegetable that is but little grown, and grown 
oftener as a novelty than for use. It belongs to the same 
family as the Artichoke, which it much resembles. The 
leaf stems, after blanching, are used in soups or in sal- 
ads. It is cultivated by sowing the seeds in early spring. 



170 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

thinly, in rows three feet apart, and thinning out to 
eighteen inches between the plants. The plant attains 
its growth in early fall, when it is blanched by tying the 
leaves together so as to cause an erect growth, after 
which it is earthed up, and preserved exactly as we do 
Celery. 



CAKROT.—iDduciis Carota). 

This may be classed more as a crop of the farm than 
of the garden, as a far larger area is grown for the food 
of horses and cattle than for culinary purposes. Yet it 
is a salable vegetable in our markets, and by no means 
an unprofitable one to grow on lands not too valuable. 
It is not necessary that the land for this crop should be 
highly enriched. I have grown on sod land (which had 
been turned over in fall), 300 barrels per acre, without a 
particle of manure, and three years after, and on the same 
land, which had been brought up to our market garden 
standard of fertility, a very inferior crop; the land being 
too Vich, induced a growth of tops rather than roots. In 
our ma*rket gardens, we sow in rows fourteen inches 
apart, thinning out to three or four inches between the 
plants ; but on farm lands, where space is not so valuable, 
they should be planted eighteen or twenty-four inches 
between the rows, and worked with the cultivator. For 
early crops, we sow at the beginning of our first operations 
in spring, in the same manner as we sow Beets, as soon 
as the ground is thoroughly dry ; but for later crops, 
they may be sown any time in this latitude until the 
middle of June. This is one of the vegetables that 
requires a close watching to see that it does not get 
enveloped with weeds, as, in its early stage, it is of com- 
paratively feeble growth, and unless it is kept clean from 
the start, it is apt to be irrevocably injured. 



VEGETABLES— CASROT. 171 

The usually prescribed quantity of seed per acre is five 
pounds^ but I have always (3onsidercd it safer to sow 
nearly double that quantity. In dry weatlier it germi- 
nates feebly, and not infrequently, when seed comes up 
thinly, it is scorched off by the hot sun, and the savin"^ 
of a few pounds of seed may entail the loss of half the 
crop. We prefer to sow all such crops by hand, though 
foi' field culture on a large scale, the seed drill should be 
used. In all cases tread in the seed — see ''Use of the 
Feet in Sowing and Planting," Chapter 12 — to which, 
even at the risk of repetition, I again beg to call atten- 
tion. 

The Carrot, like all other root crops, delights in a 
sandy loam, deeply tilled. Considerable quantities of 
the early varieties are sold in our markets in bunches, in 
a half-grown state, at prices equal to early Beets sold in 
the same manner. Sold in this state, they are highly 
profitable at the prices received, but only limited quan- 
tities can be disposed of. In the dry state, during fall 
and winter, they range from $1.50 to 12 per barrel, 
according to quality, and at fchese prices will yield double 
the profit of Potatoes as a farm crop. 

The varietes in general cultivation are limited. The 
favorite variety for all purposes is the 

Early French Forcing. — The earliest variety, and one 
largely grown for forcing purposes. It makes a small, 
almost globe-shaped root, of an orange-red color. 

Early Scarlet Horn. — An old and favorite sort for an 
early crop, but not large enough to be suitable for general 
culture. It IS one of the varieties that is bunched and 
sold in our markets in a green state. It matures eight 
to ten days earlier than the Long Orange, and is some- 
times used for forcing. 

Half Long Red (Stump Rooted).— (See figure 30.) At 
this time this variety is more largely grown for the New 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



York market than any other, and is the finest of the 
early sorts. It is intermediate in size and time of 
maturity between the Early Scarlet Horn and the Long 
Orange. 

Early Half Lon? Scarlet 
(Pointed Rooted).— The only 
difference between this and the 
preceding variety is that it has 
a pointed instead of a stump 
or blunt root. 

Early Half Lon^ Scarlei 
('areata n. — A distinct variety, 
almost cylindrical, with few 
and very small roots. The 
skin is smooth, flesh red, and 
without any core or 
heart. It is excel- 
lent for forcing, 
and for fine quality! 
and perfect shape ^ 
can hardly be sur- 
passed. 

Lon^ Orange Im- 
proved. — (See fig- 
ure 31.) This is 
equally adapted for 
market and family 
use. It IS of large ^'S- 30. 

. . . ° LONG KED STUMP- 

size, lair specimens footed carrot. 

averaging twelve 

inclies in length, with a diameter of three inches at the 

top; color, orange red, varying in depth of shade in dif- 

erent soils. 

Panrers. — (See figure 32.) The color of this valu- 
able sort, which is of comparatively recent introduction, 





-HALF 



Fif^. 31.— LONG 

ORANGE IM- 
PROVED OARKOT. 



Fig. 32. 

DANVEkS 
CARROT. 



VEGETABLES — CHERVIL. 173 

is a rich shade of orange. In shape it is midway be- 
tween the Early Scarlet Horn and the Long Orange. 
Under the best cultivation, it is said to have yielded 
from twenty-five to thirty tons of roots per acre. 

Lar^c White Beli^iail, — The most productive of all 
varieties. The root is white ; that part growing above 
ground, and exposed to the air, green. It is exclusively 
grown for stock, bearing nearly twice as much in weight- 
per acie as the Long Orange. Horses do not eat it quite 
so readily, however, and it is said to be less nutritious 
than the red or orange sorts. 

Yellow Belgian. — Similar to above ; color, yellow. 



CHERVIL.— Turnip-rooted.— (C7icerop/ii/ZZi«m hulbosiim.) 

A vegetable of recent introduction, closely allied to 
the Parsnip, which it resembles in shape. It is of a 
grayish color ; the flesh is white and mealy, tasting 
something like the Sweet Potato. It is equally as hardy 
as the Parsnip, and in France, where it has been culti- 
vated to a considerable extent, is said to hnve yielded six 
tons per acre. It is one of the many plants that were 
experinientod with in Europe as a substitute for the 
Potato, when it- was feared that that tuber wonld be lost 
to us by disease. Its culture is in all respects similar to 
the Parsnip or Carrot ; it is entirely hardy in any lati- 
tude, and is rather improved by the action of the frost. 
It must be sown as early in spring as the soil is fit to 
work, it being slow to germinate if the weather becomes 
hot and dry. 



174 GARDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. 

CELERY. — {Apium graveolens.) 

I know of no vegetable wpon which so much unneces- 
sary labor is expended with such unsatisfactory results as 
Celery. Many private cultivators still think ic necessary 
to dig out trenches, from six to twelve inches deep, 
involving great labor and expense, and giving a crop very 
inferior to that planted on the level surface, in the man- 
ner practiced on hundreds of acres by the market garden- 
ers in the vicinity of JSTew York. 

Our manner of treating the Celery crop is now very 
simple. Instead of sowing the seed in a hot-bed or cold 
frame, which is the European plan, but not practicable 
here (unless when on such soils as the muck deposits at 
Kalamazoo, Michigan), owing to the tendency of plants 
thus sown to run to seed, the seed is sown in the open 
ground as soon as that is fit to work in spring — here 
about first week in April — on a level piece of rich mellow 
soil, that has been sj^ecially prepared by thorough pul- 
verizing and mixino^ with, short stable manure. 

I have had large experience in growing Celery plants, 
as our demaud for the plants often reaches 2,000,000 
of plants in a season, and we never fail in getting a crop 
by rigidly adhering to the following simple method. 

The bed being fined down by raking, so that it is clear 
of stones and all inequalities, lines are drawn out by the 
** marker" eight or nine inches apart, in beds of eight 
rows in each, rubbing out every ninth mark for an alley, 
on which to walk when weeding, etc. The seed should 
be sown rather thinly, one ounce being sufficient for 
twenty feet m length of such a bed, or about 150 feet of 
rovv. 

The seed is sown by hand in the rows : after the sower 
follows a man who evenly presses down the seed in the 
drill with the feet. That done, the back of a rake is 
drawn lightly lengtlncisc of the bed, which slightly cov- 



VEGETABLES— CELERY. 175 

ers the seed to the average depth of something less than 
half an inch. After this, the hed is still further firmed 
and levelled by being rolled, or in small areas evenly 
patted down with the back of a sjDade. 

As soon as the seeds of Cel3ry begin to germinate, so 
that the rows can be traced, hoe lightly between the rows, 
and begin to pnll out the weeds as soon as they can be 
seen. One day's work, at the proper time, will be better 
than a dozen after the seed-bed gets envelojoed with 
weeds, besides insuring much finer plants. 

As the plants advance in growth, the tops are shorn 
off, generally twice before the time of setting out, so as 
to induce a stooky growth ; plants thus treated suffer less 
on being transplanted. This plan of shearing off the 
tops we practice with Cabbage, Cauliflower and many 
other kinds of plants to induce stocky growth. 

The time of planting out in the Northern States may 
run from June 15th to the end of July, and in the South- 
ern States from August 15th to the end of September. 
In this section, we prefer to plant in July, as there is but 
little gained by attempting it early. In fact, I have 
often seen plants raised in hot-beds and planted out in 
June, far surpassed both in size and quality by those 
raised in the open ground and planted a month later. 
The great difficulty experienced in the Southern States 
is, in raising the plants ; for, if sown in March or April, 
as we do here, the high temperature and dry atmosphere 
either kill the plants outright, or so shrivel them up that 
they never start to make a free growth. 

By sowing about the middle of August in extreme 
Southern States, shading with the protecting cloth 
sashes, already referred to, in hot days from 9 a. m. to 
4 p. M., and planting out the end of September, a 
fair crop of Celery may be obtained in the late fall and 
early winter months. The plants are sometimes spe- 
cially grown at the North for planting at the South, but 



176 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

in all such cases they must be plants grown from sowings 
made in June or July, for if grown at the North at the 
usual season, they w^ould not answer, as they would 
become so large that they would require to be planted out 
before the end of July, and in most of the Southern 
States, if planted then, they could not stand the long- 
continued high temperature and dry atmosphere of 
August and September. 

It is doubtful if this special growing of plants is likely 
to be done, and our friends at the South must submit to 
paying us for our Celery already grown, just as we must 
submit to have the cream of our profits taken off by their 
early supply of spring vegetables. It is a geographical 
condition of culture that both sections must accept. In 
almost all the early vegetables, the first supplies come 
from Southern gardens, thus anticipating our crops by 
some weeks ; while Celery is one of the very few things 
with which we can compete with our Southern friends in 
their own markets. 

Celery is a plant requiring a cool, moist atmosphere, 
and it is nonsense to attempt to grow it early in our hot 
and dry climate, unless under climate and soil specially 
adapted, which is found in the vicinity of Kalamazoo, 
Michigan, Horse Heads, New York, and some other 
similar localities, where there is a rich vegetable deposit 
on level bottom lands. 

But even when grown, it is not a vegetable that is ever 
very palatable until cool weather. This our market 
experience well proves, for, although we always have a 
few bunches exposed for sale in July and August, there 
is not one root sold at that time for a thousand that are 
sold in October and November, 

( 'Clery is always grown by us as a " second crop ; " 
that is, it follows after the spring crop of Beets, Onions, 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Peas or early Potatoes, which are 
cleared off and marketed, at latest, by the middle of July. 



VEGETABLES — CELERY. 



177 



The ground is then thoroughly plowed and harrowed. 
No additional manure is used, as enough remains iu 
the ground from the heavy coat it has received in the 
spring, to carry through the crop of Celery. 

After the ground has been nicely prepared, lines are 
struck out on the level surface three feet apart, and the 
plants set six inches apart in the row^s. If the weather 
is dry at the time of planting, great care should, be taken 
that the roots are properly *' firmed." Our custom is to 
turn back on the row, and press by the side of each plant 




Fig. 33.— CELERY AFTER "HANDLING." 



gently w^th the foot. This comjDacts the soil and par- 
tially excludes the air from the root until new rootlets 
are formed, which will usually be in forty-eight hours, 
after which all danger is over. This practice of ^Dressing 
the soil closely around the roots is essential in planting 
of all kinds, and millions of plants are annually destroyed 
by its omission. After the planting of the Celery is com- 
pleted, nothing further is to be done for six or seven 
weeks, except running through between the rows with 
the cultivator or hoe, and freeing the plants of weeds 
until they get strong enough to crowd them down. This 
will bring us to about the middle of August, by which 



178 



GARDENING FOE PROFIT. 



time we usually have, especially at night, that moist and 
cool atmosphere essential to the growth of Celery. 

Then we begin the ^'earthing up" necessary for 
blanching or whitening that Avhicli is wanted for use dur- 
ing the months of September, October and Noyember. The 
first operation is that of '^handling," as we term it ; that 
is, after the soil has been drawn up against the plant with 
the hoe, it is further drawn close around each plant by 
the hand, firm enough to keep the leaves in an upright 



wi'" I 




^V: 



Fitr. 34. — CELEBY EARTHED TIP. 



position, and prevent them from spreading, which will 
leave them as shown in figure 33. 

This being done, more soil is drawn against the row, 
either by the plow or hoe, as circamstances require, so as 
to keep the plant in this upright position. The blanch- 
ing process must, hov/ever, be finished by the spade, 
which is done by digging the soil from between the rows 
and banking it up clear to the top on each side of the 
row of Celery, as in fignre 34. 

Three feet is ample distance between the dwarf vari- 
eties, but when '^Seymour's Superb," *^ Giant White 
Solid," or other large sorts are used, though they are 
now rarely grown, the width between the rows must be 



VEGETABLES — CELERY. 179 

at least four and a half or five feet, which entails much 
more labor and loss of ground. For the j^ast fifteen 
years no Celery but the dwarf varieties is grown in our 
vicinity, which saves in consequence at least one-half 
iu labor and one-third in ground, while the average 
price per root in market has been always equal to, and 
occasionally higher, than for the tall growing sorts. 

Nearly all market gardeners have at last got their 
eyes opened to the value of the dwarf sorts, and T think 
that a few years more will suffice to throw^ the large 
and coarse-flavored sorts, such as *^ Seymours Superb" 
and " (riant White Solid," out of our markets. 

The preparation of the soil and planting of Celery for 
tv inter use is the same in all respects, except that what is 
intended for winter need never be '' banked up " with the 
spade. It merely requires to be put through the handling 
process to bring it into a compact and upright position 
preparatory to being stowed away in winter quarters. 
This should not be done before the middle of Septem- 
ber, or just long enough before the Celery is dug up to 
keep it in the upright position. 

We have, however, another method wdiich we have 
found to answer very well for the late crop, and it is one 
by which more roots can be grown on the same space and 
with less labor than by any other. It is simply to plant 
the Celery one foot apart, each ivay, nothina: farther be- 
ing required after planting, except twice or thrice hoeing 
to clear the crop of weeds until it grows enough to cover 
the ground. No handling or earthing up is required by 
this method, for, as the plants struggle for light, they 
naturally assume an upright position, the leaves all 
assuming the perpendicular instead of the horizontal, 
which is the condition essential before it is put into win- 
ter quarters. Thi^ method is not quite so general with 
us as planting in row^s, and it is, perhaps, better adapted 
for private gardens than for market. As the plant is 



180 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



more excluded from the air, the root liardly attains as 
much thickness as by the other plan. 

We are often asked for the cause of and remedy for 
Celery rusting or burniug. The cause, we think, is the 
condition of the weather, which destroys the tender fibers 
or what are called the " working roots " of tlie plant, for 
we find it usually worse in seasons of extreme drouth or 
moisture, particularly in warm weather. 

We know of no remedy, nor do we believe there is any. 
We may say, however, that it is less liable to appear on 
new fresh soils, that are free from acids or sourness, than 
on old soils that have been surfeited with manure and 
have had no rest. 

Although, under ordinary conditions, if proper vari- 
eties of Celery are used, the crop should never be pithy 
or hollow, yet we have found that now and then even the 
most solid kinds of Celery have become more or less hol- 
low when planted in soft loose soils, suck as reclaimed 
peat bogs, where the soil is mostly composed of leaf 
mould. In fact, on heavy or clayey soils, the Celery will 
be specifically heavier than on lighter soils. 

Our manner of preserving Celery during the wdnter is 
now very simple, but as the knowledge of the process is 
not yet universally known to market gardeners in all 
sections of the country, I will endeavor to put it plain 
enough, so that my readers '^may go and do likewise." 
In this locality we begin to dig up that wiiich we intend 
for winter use about the end of October, and continue 
the work (always on dry days) until the 20th or 25th of 
November, which is as late as we dc,re risk it out for fear 
of frost. Let it be understood that Celery will stand 
quite a sharp frost, say ten or even fifteen degrees, while 
twenty or twenty-five degrees will destroy it. Hence, ex- 
perience has taught us that the sharp frosts that we usu- 
ally have doring the early part of JNovember rarely hurt 
it (unless in rare cases w^here we have had an unusual 



VEGETABLES — CELERY. 



181 



warm spell succeeded by sharp frost), though often caus- 
ing it to droop flat on the ground, until thawed out by 
the sun. It must, however, never be touched when in 
the frozen state, or it is almost certain to decay. The 
ground in which it is placed for winter use should be as 
dry as possible, or if not dry, so arranged that no water 
will rem_ain in the trench. The trench should be dug as 
narrow as possible, not more than ten or twelve inches 
wide, and of the depth exactly of the height of the Cel- 
ery ; that is, if the plant of the Celery be two feet in 
length, the depth of the drain or trench should be two 




Fig. 35.— CELERY STORED FOR WINTER, 

feet also. The Celery is now placed in the trench as 
nearly perpendicular as possible, so as to fill it up entirely, 
its green tops being on a level with the top of the trench. 
Figure 35 represents a section across trenches filled with 
Celery in the manner just described. No earth whatever 
is put to the roots other than what may adhere to them 
after being dug up. It being closely packed together, 
there is moisture enough always at the bottom of the 
trench to keep this plant, at the cool season of the year, 
from wilting, and also to induce it to form new white 
roots, which must be formed before the Celery will 
blanch. That which is put in trenches about the 25th 



182 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

of October is usually ready to be taken up for use 
about the 1st of December ; that a couple of weeks later, 
by 1st of January ; and the last (which we try always to 
defer to the loth or 20th of November), may be used dur- 
ing the winter and until the 1st of April. For the first 
lot no covering is required, but that for use during the 
winter months must be gradually covered up until the 
middle of December, or until the 1st of January, when 
it will require at least a foot of covering of some light, 
dry material — hay, straw, or leaves — the latter perhaps 
the best. I have said the covering up should be gradual. 
This is very important ; for if the full weight of cover- 
ing is put on at once it prevents the passing olf of the 
heat generated by the closely packed mass of Celery, and 
in consequence it to some extent *' heats," and decay 
takes place. Covered up in this manner, it can be got 
out with ease during the coldest weather in winter, and 
with perfect safety. These dates of operations, like all 
others named throughout this work, are for this latitude ; 
the cultivator must use his judgment carefully in this 
matter, to suit the section in which he is located. 

For market gardeners, and others who have large quan- 
tities, this is the best method of storing ; but for smaller 
growers, either for sale or for private use, quite a quan- 
tity may be preserved in any cellar where there is no 
furnace or other fire heat. When a few hundred roots 
only are to be stored it can be placed in narrow boxes, 
say nine inches wide, four or six feet in length, and of a 
deptli a little less than the height of the Celery. A few 
inches of sand or soil is placed on the bottom of the 
box, but none must be put between the stalks of the 
Celery, and the Celery is packed in the box upright, 
the roots being placed on the sand at the bottom ; 
the Celery must be packed in as tight as possible, 
but without bruising. Boxes thus packed and stood 
on the cool floor of the cellar, if put away in Novem- 



TE'^ETABLES — CELERY. 183 

ber, will be ^^ blanched " fit for use during January, 
February, and March. If put in sooner than No- 
vember it will blanch earlier, and if stored later it 
will keep later. If larger quantities are to be kept 
in the cellar, the cheapest practicable way to do so is 
to begin at one side next the wall, furthest from the 
entrance, and erect boards across the cellar, nine inches 
from the wall, and of a height a little less than the length 
of the Celery — that is, if the Celery is twenty-four inches 
in length, the boarding may be eighteen or twenty inches 
high. In this narrow division the Celery is packed in 
upright, as above described for packing in boxes. As 
soon as the first tier is filled, erect another board trench 
or division at nine inches distant from the first, and so 
on until the whole space to be used is filled up. It will be 
understood that no soil or sand is packed between the 
stalks of Celery, only two or three inches being strewn 
on the floor, on whicli the roots are placed. Simultane- 
ously witli the formation of the white rootlets the blanch- 
ing process begins, which is simply the plant making an 
effort to grow in the dark, and thus beconiing blanched 
or whitened. We have sometimes complaints that Celery 
fails to blanch or whiten. In all such cases the roots 
must have been in some way injured by being frozen or 
dried too much while being lifted from the field, but this 
should never happen with ordinary care. A cellar or 
root-house twenty by twenty feet, so packed, will hold 
from 3,000 to 5,000 roots of Celery, according to their 
size. Care must be taken not to get the board jDartitions 
forming the trenches, or divisions between the tiers of 
Celery, more tlian nine or ten inches apart, for if at much 
greater distance the stems and leaves would be in too 
large masses and would generate heat and rot. 

As the cellar or root-house is usually a damp and dark 
apartment, there will generally be no necessity to water 
the Celery after it is packed. Every means of ventilation 



184 GARDENING FOR PftOFIT. 

should be used, even in cold weather, for it must always 
be borne in mind that Celery is a vegetable that will stand 
quite a sharp frost without injury, so if the temperature 
of the cellar falls five or six degrees below the freezing 
point, no injury will be done. When Celery or other 
vegetables are packed away for preservation in cellars or 
in the open field, it is indispensable that no water be 
allowed to lodge in the pit or trench ; so that in the 
event of rsing a cellar or root-house for this purpose, a 
matter of first importance is thorough drainage, in soils 
where drainage is necessary. 

Regarding the profits of this ci'op I can speak from a 
very extensive experience in its culture, having cultivated 
at one time, an average of ten acres for eighteen years. 
For many years, in the early part of that time, it vvas by 
no means what we would now call a profitable crop. By 
persisting in raising the large growing sorts, and the 
awkward and expensive mode we had then of working it, 
we were satisfied if it gave us a profit of 150 or 175 per 
acre. But for the last twenty years, by adopting the fiat 
culture, and the drain or trench system for winter stor- 
age, it has done much better, and is now a very profitable 
" second crop," averaging a clear profit of 1250 per acre, 
though it rarely brings here over 12.50 per 100 roots. 
No doubt, in many parts of the country, it is much more 
profitable than in the crowded markets of New York. It 
is shipped from here in all directions — to Philadelphia 
(largely), Baltimore ard Washington (South), and to 
Newport, Providence, Hartford and New Haven (East). 
It is a' bulky and expensive article to ship, and the dealer 
must realize more than double on the purchase, or it will 
not pay his risk. It must thus cost the consumer, in 
those towns to which we send it, seven or eight cents per 
head, a price at whicli it would pay a clear profit of 
$1,000 or $1,500 per acre. 

If the awkward and laborious systems of cultivation 



VEG ETABLES — CELERY. 



185 



still persisted in for the growing of Celery nre a mistake, 
the coutiiiLied use of the tall growing and coarse varieties 
■we believe to be even a far greater one. The kinds that 
are offered in European catalogues are many, but in the 
whole list there are but few that are desirable for the 
market gardener or 
for private gardens. 
The climate of Eng- 
land is much more fa- 
vorable to the growth 
of Celery than that 
of our country, and 
every year new varie- 
ties are offered there, 
of which only now 
and then one proves 
of permanent value, 
but with the majority 
the differences are 
mainly in the name 
The following kinds, 
some of them of very 
recent introduction, 
are great improve- 
ments on the sorts 
grown a dozen years 
ago: 

Henderson's Clolden 
Dwarf. — (See figure 
30.) This is now th^ 

leading variety, not only around New York, but in nearly 
all parts of the country. In the great Celery-growing 
district of Kalamazoo, Michigan, it is the variety that is 
planted almost exclusively. In size and habit of growth 
it is much the same as the Half Dwarf and Dwarf White 
kinds, except that when blanched, the heart is of a waxy 




Fig. 36. 



-HENDERSON'S GOLDEN DWARF 

CELER-y. 



18G 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



golden yellow, rendering it a most attractive and sliowy 
yariety for either market or private use. It is entirely 
solid, of excellent flavor, and one of the best keepers dur- 
ing winter. It originated with us from a chance seed- 
ling, about fifteen years ago. 




Fi^. 37.— WHITE PLUME CELERY, AS PUT UP FOR THE NEW YORK 

MARKET. 

White Plume— (See figure 37. ) This variety presents 
characteristics so different from what we have been accus- 
tomed to find in Celery that it merits the rather extended 
description which follows. The peculiarity of the vari- 
ety is, that its stalk aud portions of its inner leaves apd 



VEGKTABLES — CELERY. 187 

heart are naturally white, so that by closing the stalks, 
either by tying them up with matting or by simply 
drawing the soil up against the plant and pressing it 
together with the hands, and again drawing up the soil 
with the hoe or plow, so as to keep the soil that has been 
squeezed against the Celery in its place, the work of 
blanching is completed ; while it is well known that in 
all other varieties of Celery, in addition to this, the slow 
and troublesome process of '^banking" or ""earthing 
up" with a spade is necessary. Another merit of this 
variety is that it far excels any known vegetable as an 
ornament for the table, the inner leaves being disposed 
somewhat like an ostrich feather, which suggested its 
name. It is also, we think, the earliest Celery in culti- 
vation, and when to all these valuable characteristics is 
added that its eating qualities are equal to the very best 
of the older sorts, being crisp, solid and possessing a rich, 
nutty flavor, it is but little wonder that the White Plume 
should have secured in so short a time a permanent place 
in cultivation. It should be stated, ho\\ever, that this 
variety never whitens in a young state, and usually only 
begins to show its self blanching character when the 
growth begins in the cool weather. When I first sent 
out the White Plume Celery in 1884, I imagined from its 
having the stems and leaves white, that it Avould not 
keep in winter, and so stated, but further trial has 
shown that it keeps nearly as well as any of the other 
kinds. 

Henderson's Half Dwarf.— (See figure 38). Except 
the Golden Dwarf, this variety is now grown more ex- 
tensively than any other by the maj-ket gardeners who 
supply the New York markets, and is now found on 
the tables of all first-class hotels. When blanched it is 
a yellowish white, making it very ornamental for the 
table. It is entirely solid and possesses a rich, nutty 
flavor, while it has much vigor of growth, surpassing 



188 



GARDENIXG FOR PROFIT. 



most of the largo growing sorts in weight of bunch 
when grown under the same conditions. 

Sandriugham. — Under good 
cultivation this variety attains 
a height of two feet and a cir- 
cumference of twelve inches. 
It is perfectly solid, the stalks 
)M&. half round, the leaves and stems 
'j(\. A/ being rather light green. When 
blanched it is a yellowish white, 
crisp, tender and of very fine 
P flavor. The great advantage of 
this, as well as the other dwarf 
sorts, over the large kinds, is 
that nearly every part of the 
plant is fit to eat when blanched. 
For instance, if in the dwarf 
varieties the length is only two 
feet and in the large sorts three 
feet, the extra length of the 
large sort is unfit for use, being 
usually only an elongation of 
the outer leaves, the heart or 
edible part rarely rising more 
than eighteen inches in the large 
sorts, while the dwarf sorts may 
be said to be all heart. This 
variety in this section seems to 
have more tendency to blight 
or rust than any other kinds; 
but where it can be grown with- 

Fig. 38.— HENDERSON'S HALF out this difficulty, as it can be 
DWARF CELERY. \^ g^ch solls ^s at Kalamazoo, 

Michigan, I think it has no equal. 

Boston Market • — A great favorite around Boston and 




VEGETABLES — CELERY. 



189 



similar to the Dwarf White, but rather more robust. 
The leaves are a darker green, the stalks when blanched 
are nearly white. It is an excellent variety, solid, crisp 
and tender. 

Giant White Solid. — The best of the large growing 
wrts, attaining a height, under good cultivation, of three 




Fig. 39. — CELEEIAC. 

feet. It should never be planted closer than four feet 
between the rows, or it cannot be properly worked. For 
southern sections of the country this variety is more 
suitable than the dwarf sorts, as it grows freer in a hot 
and dry atmosphere. 

Henderson's Rose. — The superiority in flavor, as a 
rule, of the red or rose Celeries over the white sorts, 
is much better understood in England ("where the 
majority of Celery grown is red), than with us. For 
some unexplained reason, the red Celeries have not sold 



190 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



well in our markets. This cannot long be, however, as 
when once grown they will never be given up, not only 
for their superior flavor and crispness^, but for their far 
better keeping qualities. This variety is one of the 
best I have ever seen. 

Major Clark's Pink. — Another excellent variety 
among the red sorts. It is of medium growth, stiff, close 
habit, large heart, solid, crisp and of fine walnut flavor. 



CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY. 

(Apium graveolens. Var.) 

This, figure 39, is grown from seeds sown in the same 
manner, and planted out at the same times as directed 
for Celery ; but as it requires but a slight earthing up, 

it is planted closer than 
ordinary Celer} ; eight- 
een inches between the 
rows and six inches be- 
tween the plants. It is 
preserved for winter use. 
in shallow trenches, and 
covered up as the season 
advances, as directed for 
Celery. It is as yet 
grown to but a limited 
extent here, being used 
only by the French and 
Germans. The turnip- 
like root is cooked, or 
it is sliced and used 
with vinegar, making a most excellent salad. 

Dwarf Apple Shaped. — (See figure 40). This com- 
paratively new variety is now the main kind grown. 




Fig. 40. — DWARF APPLE-SHAPED 
CELERIC. 



VEGETABLES — CHIVES — CORN SALAD — CRESS. 191 
CHIVES. — {Allium Sch cenoprasum.) 

A small biilbons-rooted plant of the Onion tribe, en- 
tirely hardy and of the easiest culture, as it will grow on 
almost any soil for many years without renewal. It is 
propagated by division of the root, and may be planted 
at nine or ten inches apart ; the leaves are the parts 
used, which may be repeatedly shorn off during the early 
summer months. They are sometimes used in soups, 
but more generally in the raw state. 



CORN SALAD, OR FETTICTJS.-(i^edia olitoHa,) 

A vegetable used as a salad and sold to a considerable 
extent in our markets. It is sown on the first opening 
of spring in rows one foot apart, and is fit for use in six 
or eight weeks from time of sowing. If wanted to come 
in early in spring it is sown in September, covered up 
with straw or hay as soon as cold weather sets in, and is 
wintered over exactly as Spinach. The covering is re- 
moved in Miirch or April when it starts to grow, and is 
one of our first green vegetables in spring. It is also 
grown to a lai'ge extent by the German gardeners on 
New York Island in cold frames. 



CRESS, OR PEPPER GlELASS.—iLepidium sativum.) 

Another early spring vegetable, used as a salad, and of 
easy culture. It is sown in early spring in rows one 
foot apart ; as it runs quickly to seed, succession sowings 
should be made every eight or ten days. There are sev- 
eral varieties, but the kind in general use is the Curled, 
which i3 used for garnishing as well as for salads. 



192 GAKDElSriNG FOR PROFIT. 

CRESS— WATER.— (iVasfztrimm officinale.) 

This is a well-known hardy perennial aquatic plant, 
growing abundantly along the margins of running 
streams, ditches and ponds, and sold in immense quanti- 
ties in our markets in spring. Where it does not grow 
naturally, it is easily introduced by planting along the 
margins of ponds or streams, where it quickly increases, 
both by spreading of the root and by seeding. Many a 
farmer in the vicinity of New York realizes more profit 
from tlie Water Cresses, cut from the margin of a brook 
running through his farm in two or three weeks in spring, 
than from his whole year's hard labor in growing Corn, 
Hay or Potatoes. 

Water Cress can be best cultivated in places where the 
streams run through a level tract. Supposing the stream 
to be a foot deep on an average, and six or eight feet 
wide, running through a meadow, a good plan for culti- 
vation is to make excavations laterally, say in beds five 
feet wide (with five foot allej^s between), to a depth of 
about eight inches, or deep enough to be flooded by the 
stream when it is of average height, or when shallow, by 
damming it up so as to flood the beds. 

The advantage of having the beds excavated at right 
angles to the stream rather than parallel with it is, that 
in the event of freshets the crop is less liable to be washed 
away. The length and number of the beds excavated 
must, of course, be determined by circumstances. 

Water Cress seeds germinate freely in earth when kept 
saturated ; hence the beds, when properly levelled and 
pulverized by digging and raking, should be slightly 
flooded — enough to only saturate the soil until the seeds 
germinate, for, of course, if the beds were filled up with 
water, the seeds would be washed off. -After the seed- 
lings have started so as to show green, the water may be 
gradually let on as they develop. 

The best time of sowing the seed for the latitude of 



VEGETABLES — CRESS. 193 

New York, for spring, is about the middle of April ; for 
fall, about the middle of August. I advocate that seeds 
of all pUxnts of this description should be sown in rows a 
foo^.. or so apart, as the seed is small and germinates 
freely, so that three or four pounds will be enough for ati 
acre. It should be cultivated exactly as Spinach is. 

When Water Cress is found growing naturally, the 
beds can be made by setting the plants six or twelve inches 
apart each way. When the cultivation is once fairly be- 
gun, there is no difficulty about forming new beds, as 
le^Y plants grow more rapidly when proper conditions are 
present. 

After the crop is planted or sown, in tw^o months it 
will have spread all over the beds. The streams being 
full in autumn, the beds will be fully flooded so as to 
protect the plants during winter. It is always found 
growing best wild, in clear, shallow, slowly-running 
water, with a sandy or gravelly bottom ; and as nature is 
always the surest guide to successful cultivation, the 
nearer it can be imitated tlie better the success. 

I find it is one of the plants the culture of which is not 
very easy to give by writing, as so much must be de- 
termined by the circumstances of locality. Wherever 
a suitable stream is at command, the experiment of 
growing Water Cress is worthy of trial, especially when we 
know that it in many cases pays, for a given area, six or 
eight times more than any other vegetable cultivated, 
provided it can be sold in the markets of New York or 
Philadelphia. 

It is usually sold in baskets containing about three 
quarts, which sell, when first in market, at fifty cents 
each ; 200 or 300 such are carried in an ordinary wagon, 
so that from a single load of this simple vegetable, $100 
to $200 are realized. The Water Cress has a particularly 
pleasant pungent taste, agreeable to most people in early 
spring. 



194 garde:n"Ii^g for profit. 

It is said that wlien Sir Joseph Banks first arrived in 
England after his voyage around the world, among the 
first tilings he asked for were Water Cresses, well know- 
ing their value as a purifier of the blood ; and that he 
afterwi:rds presented one of the largest AVater Cress 
growers for the London market, a Banksian Medal, for 
energy shown in the business, believing that while he 
had benefited himself he had benefited the community. 

I have no doubt whatever that in situations where irri- 
gation could bo used at pleasure, and regular planta- 
tions made, as for Cranberries, that, grown in this way, 
judging from the enormous price it sells at, picked up as 
it is in the present hap-hazard way, at present prices, an 
acre would sell for ^1,000 to 12,000. 

To give some idea of the immense quantities of Water 
Cress sold about some of the cities in Europe, we may 
state that a recent number of *^ Covent Garden Gazette" 
states that Water Cresses to the value of £60,000 are 
annually consumed in Paris, and in London to the extent 
of £30,000 annually. 



UPLAND CHESS.— {Barbarea vulgaris.) 

This has recently been introduced as a new vegetable 
by a Mr. Beyer, of Iowa, and Mr. Beyer may be well par- 
doned for believing it to be new, for he says that he is 
informed by the largest seed firm in Paris in a letter 
written in 1885, that in their belief it is '*new in 
France." 

Now, it is not '' new," but a very old plant, as I well 
remember it in my 'prentice days, when it was grown 
as Spinacli, and used exactly as AVater Cress. In fact, 
it so much resembles Water Cress in taste that the 
difference is scarcely discernible, and the wonder is that 
its use has not become more general, as it is of as easy 



VEGETABLES — COLLARDS — CORN. 195 

culture as Spinach ; indeed, easier, for it is a perennial 
plant, and can be grown easily for two years without re- 
sowing, and it yields enormous crops. The seed should 
be sown in April, in rows twelve to fifteen inches apart, 
and Mr. Beyer, who has been experimenting with it in 
the climate of Iowa, says it has stood a temperature 
of five degrees below zero, and still keeping green. He 
believes that its great value as a salad wilr soon be ap- 
preciated here, and, besides, as cattle eat it greedily, 
it may, in some sections, prove a valuable forage plant. 



COLLARDS iSOJJ T'E'E'RT^).~{Bmssica oleracea. Var.) 

Most of the Oollards, as grown in this section, are 
nothing more than sowings of any early variety of Cab- 
bage in row^s about one foot apart, which are cut off for 
use when six or eight inches high. The Southern Col- 
lard is a distinct variety of vigorous growth, attaining a 
height of five or six feet, and grown in portions of the 
South where the ordinary kinds of Cabbage fail to head. 
Spring sowings may be made every two weeks at two feet 
apart from February to May ; and in fall from Septem- 
ber as late as the season will admit. 



CO'RN.—iZea Mays.) 

The varieties known as ^^ Sweet" are the sorts most 
cultivated for culinary use in the green state. It may 
be either sown in rows fonr and a half feet apart, and the 
seeds planted at eight or nine inches in the rows, or 
planted in hills at distances of three or four feet each 
way, according to the variety grown or the richness of 
the soil in which it is planted. The taller the variety or 
richer the soil, the greater should be the distance apart. 



196 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

The soil best suited for Corn for an early crop is a W3ll 
enriched sandy loam. The planting should never be 
done until the weather is settled and Avarm, as heat is 
indispeusable to the healthy growth of Corn. We niiike 
our first plantings in this vicinity about the middle of 
May, and continue succession plantings every two or 
three weeks until the fii'st week in July, which date, in 
this latitude, is the latest at which we can plant and be 
sure of a crop of ^^ roasting ears." In more southerly 
latitudes planting is begun a month earlier and con- 
tinued a month later. The crop is hardly profitable 
enough for the market gardener where land is high in 
price, but the farmers realize double the price for Sweet 
Corn when sold m the green state in our markets, that 
they do for Eipe Corn, besides, as the ground can be 
cleared Avhen the ears are thus sold in August, it can be 
used afterwards for Turnips. 

About twenty years ago I came into possession, about 
the 1st of May, of a four-acre plot that had lain for 
many years in sod. It was then too late to be able to 
break it up for planting any of the finer kinds of vege- 
tables, so I decided to plant it with Sweet Corn. Ac- 
cordingly, I had the sod plowed over flat in such a 
manner as would best rot it. I was careful to have the 
furrows straight, and at every five feet where they lapped 
together I dropped Sweet Corn at four or five inches 
apart, so that when it started to grow it stood in regular 
lines five feet distant. The Corn was planted about May 
20th, and hoed around the line as it grew, the space 
between being run over by the harrow cultivator. By 
the middle of June, from the action of the cultivator, 
the space between the rows of Corn was in fine friable 
condition, and Celery was planted in double rows, ten 
inches apart. The shade given by the Corn was of no 
injury to the Celery at this early stage of its growth, and 
as the Corn crop was sold and the stalks were cleared off 



VEGETABLES — COK^". 197 

by the middle of August, the growth of the Celery was 
not in the slightest impaired. The whole transaction 
was quite satisfactory ; the Corn crop sold (green), for 
about $600, or $150 per acre ; the Celery at about $400 
per acre, which was exceedingly low, not much more 
than one cent per root for every root planted ; in some 
subsequent years the price would have doubled that for 
the same quantity. No fertilizer was used, except a 
slight sprinkling of bone dust for the Celery. A profit 
now of from $50 to $75 is usually realized per acre from 
Sweet Corn. The best varieties now are : 

Early IHarblehead. — (See figure 41.) Certainly as 
early, if not a little earlier, than any of the other sorts 
of Sweet Corn. In . appearance it resembles the better 
known Early Narragausett. The stalk is dwarf and it 
sets its ears very low down, which are of fair market- 
able size. 

Cory, — Equally early as the preceding, and said to be 
larger in size. 

Early Minnesota. — (See figure 42.) Very early and 
desirable alike in the market and family garden. Height 
of stalk, four and a half feet ; ears of fair size and good 
quality. 

Crosby's Early Su^ar. — Early, and a great favorite in 
the markets of all large cities. Ears rather small but 
productive, and of excellent quality. 

Henderson. — This variety is of medium earliness 
and is valued alike in the market and family garden, or 
for canning purposes, for which latter use enormous 
areas of it are now grown. The ears are twelve rowed, 
straight and handsome ; quality of the very best. 

Sqiiantum Sufi^ar. — One of the sweetest and most 
valued varieties I know of. It is rather early and won- 
derfully productive. Rows irregular, but setting four 
and five ears on a stalk. 



198 



GAKDENIXG FOR IMIOFIT. 



Egyptian. — The ears of this variety are of large size, 
the flavor peculiarly rich and sweet. It is grown in 
equally large quantities for both canning and for selling 
in the green state. Like all the other large varieties, it 
matures late — perhaps the best late sort. 

Stowell's EvcrgrcCDi — (See figure 43. ) Now recognized 





Fiff. 41.— MARBLE- 
HEAD CORN. 




Fig. 



42. — MINNESOTA 
CORN. 




Fi,!?, 43.— stowell's 

EVERGREEN CORN. 



everywhere as the standard late variety,, and having the 
peculiarity of remaining longer m the green state than 
most other sorts. 

Mammoth Sugar, — A late variety and a sort that pro- 



VEGETABLES — CUCUMBER. 199 

duces ears of very large size and fine flavor. It is un- 
nsnally productive, and is the variety almost exclusively 
grown by New York market gardeners for their late 
crop. 



CJJCJJMB'El^.—iCucumis sativufi.) 

The growing of the Cucumber out-of-doofs is, in most 
places, attended with a great deal of annoyance and 
loss, occasioned by the attacks of the 'SStriped Bug." 
When the seed is sown m the open ground, repeated sow^- 
ings are often utterly destroyed by this pest, despite 
all remedies. To avoid this, and at the same time to 
forward the crop at least a week, we have long adopted 
the following method with the greatest success : About 
the middle of May (for this section), we cut from a pas- 
ture lot, sods two to three inches thick ; these are placed 
with the grassy side down, either on the benclies of our 
forcing-house, m an exhausted hot-bed, or inside of a 
cold frame ; at that season of the year any one of these 
will do as well as another. The sods beino- fitted too^ether 
neatly so that all crevices are filled up, they are then 
cut into squares about three or four inches in length 
and breadth ; on each of these are planted two or three 
seeds of Cucumber, and over the whole is sifted about 
half an inch of covering of some fine rich mold. They 
are then sprinkled thoroughly from a rose w^atermg- 
pot, and the sashes put on and kept closed until the 
seeds begin to germinate, which will be m three or four 
days. As soon as they are up, the sashes must be raised 
to admit air, else the sun's rays, acting on the glass, 
would raise the temperature too high ; at that season of 
the year the sashes, as a rule, may be tilted up at eight 
or nine o'clock m the morning, and shut down by three 
or four o'clock in the afternoon. By the time the Cu- 



200 GARDEXIl^G FOR PROFIT. 

cumber plants liave attained two or three of their rough 
leaves, which will be in about three weeks from the time 
of sowino-, they are planted out in the open ground in 
hills three feet apart each way. The hills should have 
been previously prepared, by mixing thoroughly with the 
soil in each, a shovelful of well-rotted manure. 

It is always better to plant in the afternoon rather than 
during the early part of the day, as the coolness and 
moisture at night enable the plants to recuperate from 
the effects of removal. If the wreath er is hot and dry, it 
is safer to give each hill a thorough watering once, imme- 
diately after planting. I have recommended sods in 
preference to flower-pots for starting the Cucumbers, 
inasmuch as they are not only procurable in all places, 
but our experience shows that the sod is even better than 
the flower-pot ; it better retains moisture, and there is a 
freshness about sod in which the roots of all plants love 
to revel, and which no composts we can prepare can ever 
equal. 

It will be seen that the expense of growing Cucumbers 
in this manner is considerable ; to grow enough for an 
acre — about 5,000 hills — it will require the use of twenty 
three by six foot sashes, and the preparation of the 
sods and attention in airing, etc., until they are fit to 
plant, will involve ten times more expense than simply 
sowing the seed in the hills ; but all such expenditures 
are well returned, for it is safe to say that the profits 
would always be at least three times more by this plan 
than by the other. The average receipts are $500 per 
acre, working expenses probably $250, and the crop is off 
in time for Turnips or Spinach as a second crop. 

The Cucumber is a vegetable perhaps better fitted than 
any other for Southern market gardeners. There is no 
doubt that by the forwarding process above described, it 
could be had in marketable condition in the neighborhood 
of Charleston or Savannah, at least a month before it 



VEGETABLES — CUCL'MBEK. 301 

could in New York, and as it is one of the easiest things 
we have to ship, a profitable business could be made of 
growing it to send North. The profits on an acre of Cu- 
cumbers grown by this method in Charleston, and sold 
in New York in June, would, I think, exceed the aver- 
age profits of twenty-five acres of Cotton. For forward- 
ing under glass see ^^ Forcing Cucumbers," on page 79. 

Cucumbers are also extensively raised for pickling, 
hundreds of acres being groAvn for this purpose in the 
vicinity of New York, especially in Westchester County. 
Sod or stubble land, plowed in early fall, and again 
turned over twice or thrice in spring, is the condition of 
soil usually chosen. 

The ground is marked out as for Corn, four feet each 
way, and a good shovelful of well-rotted manure, dug in 
at the angle which forms the hill ; the seed is sown — 
about a dozen in each hill — usually about the 20th of 
June, but equally good crops can be obtained by sowings 
made as late as the middle of July. 

The average price of late years has been $1.50 per 
1,000, and the number grown per acre on properly culti- 
vated lands is 150,000, which is $285 gross receipts per 
acre. The expense of raising is said to be about one- half. 
These profits \vould not satisfy the market gardener on 
his few valuable acres near the city, but, no doubt, are 
remunerative enough to the farmers with large quanti- 
ties of cheap land. 

The varieties are numerous and embrace many very 
well marked kinds. The large growing kinds that attain 
two feet or more in length have never become favorites 
in our American markets. 

Improved White Spine. — (See figure 44.) This, a favor- 
ite market variety, belongs to the section of short Cucum- 
bers, producing fruit of medium size, from six to eight 
inches in length, and two to three inches m diameter. 
It IS a handsome fruit, deep green in flesh, crisp, and of 



202 



GARDENTN'G FOR PROFIT. 



fine flavor. This is one of the varieties grown for 
forcing. 

i\ichol's illedium f^reen. — This new variety is excellent 
as a pickle sort, and for forcing there is none batter. It 
is very productive, of medium size, and always straight 
and smooth. Color, dark green ; flesh, crisp and tender. 




Fio^. 44.— IMPROVED WHITE SPINE CUCUMBER. 

Early (luster. — A much esteemed early variety, grow- 
ing in clusters and extremely productive. Its color is 
bluish green, shading lighter at the extremities. 

Early Russian. — (See figure 45.) This is the earliest 
variety, coming into use about ten days before the Early 





Fig. 45.— E ABLY RUSSIAN 
CUCUMBER. 



Fig. 46.— WEST INDIAN GHERKIN 
OR BURR CUCUMBER. 



Cluster, which it resembles in some respects, but is 
smaller and shorter. The fruit is generally produced in 
pairs, and is from three to four inches long, hardy, pro- 
ductive und fine flavored. One of the best varieties for 
private gardens. 



VEGETABLES — EGG PLAKT. 203 

Green Prolific. — As a pickle variety it is unsurpassed. 
Its characteristics are its very uniform growth, hardly 
ever yielding Cucumbers too large for pickling, and its 
immense productiveness. 

Tailby's Hybrid, — Dark green and glossy in color, good 
yielder and fine flavor; resembles the English forcing 
varieties, with one of which it is a cross. 

West India Gherkin or Burr.— (See figure 46.) This 
variety, which is exclusively grown for pickling, is a spe- 
cies distinct from the common Cucumber [Cucumis Au- 
gur ia). It is very small, length from two to three inches, 
a strong growing sort, and should be planted five feet 
apart. 

>o« 

EGG PLANT.— ('S^oZanttm Melongena.) 

The cultivation of the Egg Plant, fiom its extreme 
tenderness, is, in its early stage, attended perhaps with 
more trouble than any vegetable of our gardens. A na- 
tive of Tropical America, it at all times requires a high 
temperature. For this reason, in this latitude, the seeds 
should not be sown in the hot-bed until the first week 
in April ; even then a steady bottom heat is necessary to 
a healthy development, and there should be a warm cov- 
ering at night over the sashes. I have always found that 
with tender plants of this kind, nothing was gained by 
starting early, even though by great care the plants are 
carried through the cold season. By the time they can 
be planted in the open ground, about June 1st, those 
started the 1st of March would be no larger than those 
started 1st of April, besides being harder both in roots 
and leaves, in which condition they are far inferior to the 
younger plants that have been raised with less than half 
the labor. 

A correspondent from an inland town writes that, for 
the first time, the Egg Plant has been grown in his sec- 



204 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

tion this season, and that it has been a wonder to the 
good people of that place, and they wish for more light 
on its culture and uses. Tliis gentleman says that the 
earliest and best fruit is produced on the plants last set 
out (June iOth), and seems to wonder that such should 
be the case. 

His experience here teaches a forcible lesson on the 
subject that we so often dwell upon, cautioning against 
the sowing or planting of tender kinds, such as Tomato, 
Egg Plant, Cucumber or Melon, too early. In the lati- 
tude of New York, Egg Plants should never be sown in 
hot-beds sooner than April 20th, the temperature of the 
hot-bed to be not less than seventy degrees at night. 
The plant at no season of its growth should be kept for 
any length of time at a lower average temperature than 
seventy degrees. 

The experiment of my correspondent demonstrated 
that his plants, planted in open air on May 19th, were 
inferior to those set out on June 10th. Egg Plants, 
when they first germinate, are very sensitive to damp and 
to being chilled, and the amateur often fails to raise 
them, even with his hot-bed. But as they are now grown 
in all large towns, those wishing to try them, and not 
having the proper means of raising the plants, can pro- 
cure them at trifling expense from the market gardeners 
or florists of their nearest town. The soil in which they 
fruit best is a light, sandy loam, well enriched by decayed 
stable manure. 

The. Egg Fruit is fit for use from the time it is the 
size of a turkey's egg until it is full grown, say five 
inches in diameter ; but it is not so good when the seeds 
become hard, and indicate an appearance of ripening. 

The soil in which Egg Plants are to be grown can 
hardly be too rich, for it is a plant that will generally 
repay good treatment. They are planted from two to 
three feet apart, according to the degree of richness of 



VEGETABLES — EGG PLANT. 



205 



soil ; in the fertile market gardens never less than three 
feet. Although their sale is comparatively limited, yet, 
from the difficulties often experienced in raising the 
plants, all that are offered are sold at good prices ; the 
average is about $1 per dozen, each plant producing six 
to nine full-sized fruit. It is more important with this 
vegetable to select the proper variety for growing than 
with- any other that I know; for that reason we are 




Fig. 47. — NEW YORK IMPROVED EGG 
PLANT. 



Fig. 48.— BLACK PEKIl? EGG 
PLANT. 



chary of touching any other sorts for market purposes 
than the "New York Improved" and "Black Pekin." 

New York Improved, — (See figure 47.) This is onr 
leading market variety, and is readily distinguishable 
from either the Large Round or Long Purple varieties in 
the plant being more robust in all its parts, the leaves 
and stems also being thickly studded with spines, which 
are not found to any great extent on the other varieties. 
A productive and excellent variety. 



206 GARDENING FOR PRUFiT. 

Long Ptirplc. — Different in shape from the foregoing; 
sometimes deep purple, and again j)ale, with white or 
yellowisli stripes. Early, productive, and of easy cul- 
ture. 

IJIack Pckin. — (See figure 48.) A comparatively 
new variety of superior excellence ; fruit glossy, deep 
purple, almost black, of globular form and very solid. It 
is earlier and more productive than the New York Im- 
proved, and much superior in flavor, and is now selling 
rather better in our New York markets. 

White-fruited E^g Plant.— Similar in growth to the 
Long Purple, but the fruit is larger, and of an ivory white- 
ness. It is good when cooked, but much less productive, 
and, like the Scarlet, which is almost identical except in 
color, is grown more for curiosity and ornament. 



ENDIVE. — {CicJwrium Endivia. ) 

The cultivation of this vegetable for market purposes 
is not yet extensive, it being used by few except our Ger- 
man and French population. It is, however, offered now 
by the wagon load, where a few years ago afewbasketfuls 
would have supplied all the demand. Like all other 
vegetables that are grown in limited quantities, it com- 
mands a high price, and the few who do raise it find it 
very profitable. 

Like Lettuce, it may be sown at any time, from early 
spring until August, and perfect its crop the season of 
sow-ug. As it is used almost exclusively in tlie fall 
months, the main sowings are made in June and July, 
from which plantations are formed, at one foot apart each 
way, in August and September. It requires no special 
soil or manure, and, after planting, it is kept clear of 
weeds by hoeing and weeding, until the plant has attained 
its full size, when the process of blanching begins ; for it 



VEGETABLES — EIN'DIVE. 



207 



is never used except when blanched, as it is harsh and 
bitter in the green state. 

Blanching is effected by gathering np the leaves, and 
tying them up by their tips in a conical form, with bacs 
matting. This excludes the light and air from the inner 
leaves, wbich, in the course of three to six weeks, 
according to the temperature at the time, become 
blanched. 

Another method of blanching is much simpler and 
quicker, and is the one mostly practiced by those who 
grow Endive for market ; it consists simply in covering 




Fig. 4/>. — GItEEN CL'RLED ENDIVE. 

up the plants as they grow, with slates or boards, which 
serves the same purpose, by excluding the light, as the 
tying up. The average price during the months of 
October, November and December is fifty cents per 
dozen. 

The best sorts are the following : 

Cirecn Turled. — (See figure 49.) This is not only one 
of the most useful as a salad, but is highly ornamental 
from its delicately cut and curled leaves ; it is much used 
for garnishing. 

Moss I'll lied. — This variety is now common, and is 
being extensively cultivated. From the density of the 
foliage, the plant is heavier than the Green Curled, is 



208 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

equally agreeable as a salad, and its appearance, either 
green or blanched, is particularly Imndsome, and is now 
being much used for garnishing m our best hotels. 

IJroad-leaved Batavian.— A loose growing variety, 
forming but little heart. As with this blanching can 
only be accomplished by tying up, it is not so desirable as 
either of the preceding. 



(j ABJjIC. —{^ttium sativum.) 

Another vegetable used mostly by foreigners. It is of 
the easiest culture, growing freely on any soil suitable for 
onions. It is propagated by divisions of the bulb, called 
'^cloves" or '' sets." These are planted in early spring, 
in rows one foot apart, and from four to six inches 
between the plants in the rows. The crop matures in 
August, when it is harvested Hke the Onion. It is 
always sold in the dry state. 



HORSERADISH.— (^cisfifrh'itm Armoracia.) 

This root is an important crop, upwards of five 
hundred acres of it being grown in the vicinity of New 
York alone, and for the last twenty years there has 
been nothing grown from which we have realized more 
profit as a second crop. It is always grown as a second 
crop m the following manner : 

In preparing the roots for market during winter, all 
the small rootlets are broken off and reserved for plant- 
ino", leaving nothing but the main root, which is usually 
from twelve to fifteen inches long, and weighing about 
three-quarters of a pound. The rootlets, or sets, are cut 
into pieces of from four to six inches in length, from 



TEGETABLES — HORSERADISH. 209 

one-qnarter to one-half an inch in diameter ; tliese are 
tied in bundles of from fifty to sixty, the top end being 
cut square and the bottom end slanting (see figure 50), 
so that in planting there will be no danger of setting the 
root upside down ; for although it would grow if planted 
thus, it would not make a handsome root. 

The sets, when prepared, are stowed away in boxes of 
sand, care being taken 
that a sufficiency of ^^^^^^ 
sand is put between ^. ,^ 

- , ^ . . ^^ Fig. 50.— HORSERADISH SET. 

each layer oi bundles 

to prevent their heating. They may either be kept in 
the boxes in a cool cellar, or pitted in the open ground, 
as may be most convenient. We prefer the open ground, 
when the weather will permit. 

I have said that Horseradish is always cultivated as a 
second crop. AVith us, it usually succeeds our Early 
Cabbage, Cauliflower or Beets. Thus we plant Early 
Cabbage, lining out the ground with the one-foot marker ; 
on every alternate line are first planted Early Cabbages, 
which stand, when planted, at two feet between the rows 
and sixteen or eighteen inches between the plants. We 
always fini.sh our entire planting before we put in the 
Horseradish, which delays it generally to about 1st of 
May. It is then planted between the rows of Cabbage, 
and at about the same distance as the Cabbage is in the 
rows, giving about l*-i,000 or 13,000 plants per acre. 

The planting is performed by making a hole about 
eight or ten inches deep vvnth a long planting stick or 
light crowbar, into which is dropped the Horseradish set, 
so that its top will be two or three inches under the sur- 
face ; if the sets should be longer the hole should be 
made proportionally deep, so that the top of the set is 
not nearer the surface than two or three inches ; the 
earth is pressed in alongside the set, so as to fill up the 
hole, as m ordinary planting. 



210 GARDElN^ING FOR PROFIT. 

The main reason for planting the set so far under tho 
surface is to delay its coming up until the crop of Cab- 
bage be cleared off. The Horseradish makes its main 
growth in the fall, so that it is no injury to it to keep it 
from growing until July; in fact, it often happens that 
by being planted too near the surface, or too early, it 
starts to grow so as to interfere with the Cabbage crop; in 
such cases, we have often to cut the tops off twice with the 
hoe before the Cabbage is ready, but this does not injure 
it in the least. 

It is a crop with which there is very little labor during 
summer ; after the Cabbage has been cut off, the Horse- 
radish is allowed to grow at will, and as it quickly covers 
the ground, one good deep staTing by hoe or cultivator 
is all that is required aftet digging out the Cabbage 
stumps. 

When grown between Early Beets the culture is, in all 
respects, the same, only it is more profitable to have the 
rows of Beets only eighteen inches apart ; this, of course, 
throws the Horseradish nearer, so that when grown be- 
tween Beets it should be planted at the distance of two 
feet between the plants in the rows, making about the 
same number of plants per acre as when planted between 
early Cabbages. 

As it is an entirely hardy plant, it /S one of the last 
roots we dig up in fall, it being usually delayed until 
December. After digging, the small roots are usually 
broken off in the field and ttowed away in boxes, so that 
they can be trimmed under cover at leisure. The main 
root is then put away in the pits, as recommended in 
Winter Preservation of Vegetables, so that it can be got 
at as required during winter. The preparation for 
market is very simple, being merely to cut off the green 
tops and small rootlets, leaving the main root only, as 
represented, in reduced size, by figure 51. It is sold by 
weight, and is generally washed, which is done suffi- 



VEGETABLES — HORSERADISH. 



211 



ciently by rinsing a quantity of it together in a large 
tub. 

Our manner of growing Horseradish in this district, 
we claim to be a great advance on the methods generally 
practised. All American writers on the subject that I 
have seen, follow in the same track, and recommend 
planting the croimis. This would not 
only destroy the most salable part of t-lie 
root, but when planted thus, the crowns 
will produce only a sprawling lot of root- 
lets that are utterly unsalable in the 
market. They also tell us that ^^ after 
two seasons growth the roots will be fit 
for use." Now, my experience in grow- 
ing this root has most emphatically told 
me that, after two seasons growth, it is 
entirely unfit for use, or at least unfit 
for sale, which I suppose is about the 
same thing. Twenty years ago, one of 
my neighbors had a .patch of about two 
acres, whit^h from some cause or other 
he had neglected to have dug until late 
in spring, and concluded, as it was then 
rather late to sell it, he would leave it to 
grow over until next season. On commencing to dig it 
the next fall, he found that the main root, instead of 
being solid, as it is at one one year old, had become par- 
tially hollow and of a woody, stringy nature, and when 
offered to manufacturers it was refused at any price. 
So there was no help for it but to dig up and throw away 
^his entirely worthless crop at a most unusual expense, as 
its two year's growth had massed the whole soil with 
roots. This experiment of my neighbor was a loss to 
him of certainly not less than $1,500, as the price then 
was higher than now. 

Grown in the deep rich soil of our market gardens. 




Fig. 51.— HOKSE- 
EADISH. 



^i^ 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



Horseradish has been for the past thirty years, one of 
our most profitable second crops, and as an encourage- 
ment to beginners, I will state that the price has still 
kejit sufficiently high to make it a fairly profitable crop. 
Our average weight per acre is five tons, or a little over 
three-quarters of a pound per root for 12,000 planted. 
Its average price is now about 1100 per ton. But there 
is one thing to be remembered : these heavy crops are 
only obtained in our gardens that are in the highest 
state of culture ; no ordinary farm land, the first season, 
manure it as you might, will produce such results. 



KOHLEABI, OE TURNIP-ROOTED CABSAGE. 

(Brassica oleracea. Var.) 

In general appearance, this vegetable more resembles a 
Riita Baga Turnip than a Cabbage, though it is more 

generally classed with the lat- 
ter. It is best cultivated by 
sowing the seeds in rows in 
May, June, or July, according 
to latitude. In this district we 
sow throughout June, for suc- 
cession in rows eighteen inches 
apart, thinning out to about 
eio'ht or ten inches between the 
plants. It is rather difficult to 
transplant, and we generally 
prefer to sow the whole crop 
from seed, and thin out where 
it stands ; although when the 
weather is suitable, the thin- 
nings may be planted at the distances above named. 
It is sold in our markets in fall in the green state in 
bunches containing three roots, at an average price of 




Fi^. 52. — KOHLRABI. 



VEGETABLES— KOHLRABI— LEEK. 213 

seventy-five cents per dozen bunches. As it is not in 
general use, its sale is limited. The varieties mostJv 
cultivated are : 

Early White Vienna.— This is greenish-white outside • 
flesh white and tender while young. The best condition' 
for use is when the root is from three to four inches in 
diameter; if younger it partakes too much of the taste 
■of the Cabbage, and when older it- is dry and stringy 
The best market sort. * 

Early Purple Vienna.— Almost identical with the 
preceding, except in color, which is a bluish-purple. 



LEEK. — {Allium Porrum,) 

The Leek is another vegetable that is exclusively 
grown as a second crop. The seed is sown in April in 
rows one foot apart in ground well prepared, as recom- 
mended for the Celery seed-bed ; and, like all seed-beds, 
it IS kept scrupulously clear of weeds. The best time of 
planting is the same as that for all our second crops— 
during July, or as soon as the first or spring crop can 
be cleared off. The ground can hardly be too rich for 
Leeks, and, when time will allow, we always contrive to 
get in a slight additional coat of manure for this crop • 
the spring dressing, large as it alwavs is, hardly being 
sufficient. The ground being well prepared by plowino- 
and harrowing, lines are marked out bv the marker at 
one foot apart, and the Leeks planted on each line at 
five or SIX inches apart ; we do not earth up, but instead 
plant rather deeply. As it is a plant the foliage of 
which IS but little spreading, great care must be tliken 
that weeds are never allowed to get ahead, for if they 
do, they may soon entirely envelop the crop to its total 
destruction. 



214 



GARDEXIXG FOK PROFIT. 



It is a vegetable used mostly in winter and spring", and 
requires to be dug up, in this vicinity, m November, as 
otherwise it would be injured by our severe winters, but 
in milder sections, it is better left standing where it grew. 

It is quite a hardy vegetable, so that 
twenty or twenty-five degrees below 
freezing will not injure it. It is 
preserved by the market gardeners 
here in trenches, exactly as Celery is 
preserved (see Chapter on Celery.) 
Large quantities are sold in our 
Northern markets at fairly remunera- 
tive rates, although, from the nature 
of the plant, it requires perhaps more 
labor than any other vegetable to 
prepare it for market. Figure 53 
represents the Musselburgh Leek, 
trimmed previous to being bunched 
up for market. From six to eight 
Fig. 53.— MussELBUEGH j-Q^^g ^rc tied in each bunch, which 
bring in the market upon an average, 
througiiout the season, about fifty cents per dozen 
bunches. We plant about 85,000 plants on an acre. 

The two varieties used are known as Musselburgh and 
London Flag. The former is rather preferred in market, 
being usually larger, but there is but little choice be- 
tween them. 




LETTUCE. — (Lactuca sativa.) 

Perhaps there is no plant of the garden that we could 
so ill afford to dispense with as Lettuce. Its cultivation 
is universal by all classes, and from its tractable nature 
and freedom from nearly all insects and diseases, it is 
manageable in the hands of every one. In a well-ap- 



VEGETA.BLES — LETTUCE. 215 

pointed market garden it is the most important vegetable 
cultivated, engaging our attention throughout the entire 
year, either in the open ground in summer, in forcing- 
houses or hot-beds in winter, or in cold frames in spring. 
As our mode of growing it under glass is sufficiently 
described in treating of pits, frames, etc., I will in this 
place confine myself to our system of cultivating it out of 
doors. 

For our main early crop, that is sold from the open 
ground in the latter part of May or first of June, the 
seed is sown the previous season in the open ground, 
from the 15th to 25th of September. These plants are 
usually large enough to be planted in frames four or 
five weeks later, as recommended for Cabbage plants ; 
about 600 or 700 are planted under a three by six sash. 
Occasionally we sow seed thinly in the frame in fall and do 
not transplant them, as it saves a great amount of labor, 
but they are not quite so good plants as those trans- 
planted, as it is difficult to sow them so that they come 
up at the regular degree of thickness. The winter treat- 
ment of Lettuce plants in every way similar to that 
described for Cabbage plants. In dry, well-sheltered 
spots, by covering up with leaves or litter, late in the 
season, say middle of December, Lettuce plants, par- 
ticularly of the more h-ardy kinds, such as Boston Mar- 
ket and Butter, may be saved over winter without glass 
covering, in southern parts of the country without dif- 
ficulty. Like most plants that we term hardy, twenty 
degrees of frost will not injure them. The plants for 
setting out in spring are also sown in cold frames in 
February, and in hot-beds in March. (See Chapter 
on'' Spring Raising of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Let- 
tuce.") To economize not only in space, but in manure, 
we make every foot of our gardens available, so that 
when we come to plant out our Lettuce in March or 
April, instead of setting it in a bed exclusively for 



l21G GARDEXING FOR PROFIT. 

itself, it is planted at the same time and between the 
rows of Early Cabbage or Cauliflower, which are set at 
two feet apart. The Lettuce matures its crop in half 
the time that it takes for the Cabbage, and is conse- 
quently all cut off and marketed before the Cabbage is 
half grown. If it were not so, they could not be both 
grown at once on the same ground, for, when the Cab- 
bage crop attains its growth, it requires the full space 
allowed — two feet — for its development. 

This early crop of Lettuce from the open ground is 
considered rather an auxiliary than a main one ; it meets 
with a rapid sale at an average of $1.50 jjer 100 heads. 
Kather a low price, it may be thought ; but growers hav- 
ing only ten acres of ground not unfrequentiy plant over 
100,000 heads. It is planted somewhat closer than Cab- 
bage, usually about 15,000 per acre. 

For succession crops of Lettuce, sowings may be made 
in the open ground as early as spring opens until July. 
When not planted between Cabbage, they arc set at one 
foot apart each way. They are sold to some extent 
throughout the whole summer, but the great weight of 
the crop is sold about the first week of June in New 
York markets. The summer price of Lettuce is very 
variable, as tlie supply is often irregular ; it may average 
12 per 100. 

The passenger in Elevated Railroad cars going from 
Sixtieth Street to Harlem, on New York Island, may yet 
see, any day from June to October, little patches of vege- 
tation .of different shades of green, ranged in uniform 
and regular lines. These are the ''salad patches," culti- 
vated mainly by Gerjnan market gardeners ; they range 
from two acres down to a quarter of an acre in area. It 
seems a wonder that the cultivation of such a small plot of 
earth should give an able-bodied man a living ; but a liv- 
ing it does give in nearly all cases, and some have quite a 
respectable surplus for a ''rainy day." 



VEGKTA BLES — LETTLCE. 21 7 

The manner of growing the Lettuce for t\n) first or 
early crop, is the same as that practiced by th(^ market 
gardeners of New Jersey or Long Island, namely, using 
plants from seed sowu in fall that have been wintered 
over under sashes, and planted out as early as the ground 
is fit to work, which, in these warm nooks (in most cases 
at the base of rocky elevations), is often as early as the 
firgt week in March. In some particularly favored spots 
the Lettuce is planted out in the first week of October, 
and, if it remains unscathed during winter, comes in in 
such fine condition for market in May as to well repay 
the risk. The variety used for this purpose is the " Brown 
Dutch." 

In any section of the country where the thermometer 
never falls lower than ten degrees above zero, Lettuce 
sown the first week in September and planted out the 
first week of October in sheltered spats in dry soils, will 
be almost certain to ^' winter over," and give a crop in 
spring earlier than if treated by any other method. 

A plan of recent introduction for the summer growing 
of Lettuce, is to mark out lines one foot each way across 
the bed, and at the intersection of the lines six or eight 
seeds are planted, pressed down and slightly covered. 
These in the summer months germinate in a few days. 
When the plants are an inch or so high, they are all taken 
out but one plant. This is a quicker and better plan 
than planting in hot summer Aveather, as the Lettuce 
plant at that season is somewhat difficult to transplant. 
Succession sowings should be made every two or three 
weeks. 

To return to the New York City growers. The varieties 
grown under glass and first planted out in spring are 
usually the ''Butter" and "Curled Simpson," both 
white and black seeded. As soon as the crop is planted 
out, sowings are made for a succession ; this time of the 
*' Salamander" and the ''New York," the "Simpson" 



218 GARDENING FOlt PROFIT. 

being unfitted for the warm weather at which this sowing 
would mature. 

The crop planted out in March, matures by the end of 
May or 1st of June, and as soon as it is cut off, the 
ground is plowed or dug over, and the plants from the 
March sowings are set. Another sowing is made for 
plants to succeed these again, and so on during the entire 
season, the rule being to sow seed at each time of plant- 
ing. Four crops of Lettuce are usually taken from June 
to October, or nearly a crop each month. 

The plants are set about a foot apart each way, and 
will average one cent per head, so that the four crops 
give a return of nearly 12,000 per acre. This seems like an 
immense return for an acre, but though the net profits 
are respectable, there are some serious disadvantages 
attending the cultivation. Few, or none, of these men are 
owners of the land in New York City, nor in hardly any 
instance have they a lease. They are tenants at will, and 
pay a yearly rental, in some instances, of $250 per acre. 
Many of our country readers may think that an extra 
cipher has been added to the amount, but they must 
recollect that the value of some of these *' salad patches," 
as they are called, is $8,000 per city lot, or over $100,000 
per acre, so that the paltry rental of $250 per acre hardly 
pays the interest on the amount of taxes. The following 
figures were given me by one of the best and largest grow- 
ers, whose patch was two acres : 

Rent - S400 

Manure . . - 250 

Labor of three men for six months 750 

Horse k^ep and incidentals 450 

$1,850 

Four crops Lettuce, estimated at $4,000 

Expenditures . - 1,850 

Annual proEJis for two acres .$2,150 

This was in 1874 ; it is probable that now the profits 
would be quite one-third less. 



VEGETABLES — LETTLCE. 219 

A pretty good profit, but deservedly earned, for to 
attain this result the grower works early and late. It 
must not be supposed that five acres could be cultivated 
by one man with the above profit. The loss from inade- 
quate hired labor, and the difficulties of selling large 
quantities of a quickly j)erishable crop, would be likely 
to make the attempt to largely increase the area culti- 
vated a failure. Besides, Lettuce is only used to a lim- 
ited extent in the summer and fall months, and if grown 
in the quantities that it is in spring, could not be sold, 
yet in all large cities it is used more or less at all seasons, 
and commands, for limited quantities, usually a higher 
price than in spring, the season of its greatest consump- 
tion. Xo doubt the system of our New York City Let- 
tuce growers might be successfully and profitably followed 
in the neighborhood of many other cities and large towns. 

The varieties of Lettuce used for the different purposes 
of forwarding and forcing, 
and for out-door culture 
in spring and summer, are 
of more importance than 
with most vegetables. I 
once lost almost my entire 
crop of Frame Lettuce, 
from planting the Curled 
India, a summer variet}^ 
instead of the Curled Simp- ^ia;. 54.-early c rled simpson 

1-1 T 1 1 J. £ LETTUCE. 

son, which 1 had got irom 

a well-meaning but not very learned friend, whose 

hieroglyphics had got transposed. 

Early burled Simpson. — (See figure 54). This is still 
the most generally useful variety for all purposes, and so 
I place it at the head of the list. Properly speaking, it 
does not head, but forms a close, compact mass of leaves, 
which are of a yellowish shade of green and much curled. 







QARDEXTXG FOR PROFIT. 



This peculiarity allows it to mature quicker tlian varie- 
ties that form firm heads, and gives it its great desidera- 
tum — earliness. It is the kind that is largely planted 
ill cold frames, although not so largely as the Boston 
Market ; it is also largely gro^vn as an early open air 
variety between the rows of the Cabbage crop. 

Black Seeded 8im()Son. — (See figure 55.) Like the 
Curled Simpson, this variety does not form a head proper, 
but it differs from the preceding in being much lighter 
colored, the leaves being creamy yellow ; it attains a size 




Fig. 55. — BLACK SEEDED SIMPSON LETTTICE. 

nearly double that of the Curled Simpson. It stands the 
summer heat well, while it is equally suited for forcing. 
On account of its large size, how^ever, it might not, under 
some circumstances, prove so profitable as a strictly 
forcing sort, such as the Boston Market. 

Black Seeded Tennis Ball. — A favorite forcing van- 
ety, and, as the name indicates, forming a hard head. 
It makes few outer leaves, and for this reason can be 
planted quite closely under glass — from six to seven 
inches apart. It is the variety so largely used in our hot- 
beds and forcing-pits m greenhouses. 




VEGETABLES — LETTUCE. 221 

Boston Market, or White Seeded Tennis Ball.— This 

is an improved variety of the Tennis Ball which attains 
a larger size. It grows very compact, is beautifully white 
and crisp, and is one of the very best varieties for forcing ; 
in our opinion it is preferable to Black Seeded Tennis 
Ball. 

Salamander. — (See figure oG.) A grand Lettuce for 
summer use, forming 
good - sized, compact 
heads ; in color it is 
light green outside and 
white on the inside. Its 
great merit is that it 
will withstand drouth 
and heat, and remain 
longer in head without 

, .. ,, ,, Fig. 56. — SALAMANDER LETTUCE, 

bursting, than any other 

variety except the '* New York." Is largely grown for 

Philadelphia and JSTew York markets. 

Yellow Seeded Butter.— Like the Salamander, this 
stands the summer's heat well. It is a very distinct sort, 
making a large, dense, yellow head, very crisp and tender, 
and of excel lenj] flavor. Its beautiful yellow heart gives 
it a very handsome ai^pearance. 

LariJfc White Summer (abba^e.— One of the very best 
late varieties for summer ; heads of good size, close, and 
well formed. It is a splendid market variety. 

]Vew York.— (See figure 57.) This is a remarkable 
summer Lettuce introduced in the spring of 1886 ; the 
size and solidity of its head are unusual. We have seen 
it eighteen inches in diameter and weighing nearly four 
pounds, with heads almost as solid as an Early Summer 
Cabbage, which m form it somewhat resembles. It 
blanches itself naturally, is crisp, tender, and ol excel- 



2'Z: 



GARDEXI^'G roR PROFIT. 



lent flavor. It will not do for forcing, but is almost 
certain to prove one of the best summer varieties, as the 




Fig. 57. — KEW YORK LETTUCE. 

trials in my Experimental Grounds for the past two years 
show it to be the last ox fifty kinds to run to seed. 

All the Year Round.— 

As its name implies, it is 
one of the best for general 
crop. Heads of medium 
size, solid, of dark green 
color. 

Paris White Cos.— (See 
figure 58.) Although the 
Cos varieties of Lettuce are 
not so suitable for our cli- 
mate (as they tend too 
quickly to run to seed), as 
y^^i>^.'^7^r -- ^1^^ varieties previously 
rig.58. -PARIS WHITE cos LETTUCE, mentioned, yet they are 
sometimes grown in the early spring and fall for private 
use, thoudi I have never seen them in our markets. In 




VEGETABLES — MARJORAM — MELON. 223 

shape they differ materially from the other varieties, the 
head being elougated and of conical form, eight or niiie 
inches in height, and five or six inches in diameter. The 
color of this variety is yellowish-green. To be had in 
perfection, it requires to be tied up to ensure blanching. 
Millions of this variety are annually grown to supply the 
markets of London alone, where it is preferred to all 
others. 



MARJOEAM. — Sweet.— {Origanum Marjoram.) 

A well-known aromatic herb, grown to a considerable 
extent for market purposes ; but as it is of less import- 
ance than Thyme, which is grown very largely for sale, 
the reader is referred to that head for all information 
regarding its culture, price, etc., as in these particulars 
they are entirely identical. 



MELON.— Musk— (Cucwmis Melo.) 

The Melon is not cultivated in the vicinity of New 
York in the market gardens proper, but to a large extent 
in what may be called the farm gardens of Long Island 
and New Jersey. There it is grown almost in the same 
manner as they grow Corn, planting about the same 
time and cultivating in the same manner, and often with 
but very little more profit per acre than a crop of Corn. 
But the Melon is a fruit easily shipped, and when 
grown by the forwarding process we detail for Cucum- 
bers — by planting the seeds on sods under glass — there 
is no question but that it can be made equally profitable 
in all respects with the Cucumber, when grown in south- 
ern latitudes for our northern markets ; although, like 
many other fruits and vegetables so easily raised, it can 



2;J4 GARDEIs'ING FOR PROFIT. 

never be expected to be very profitable if sold in the 
district in which it is grown. It is a plant not at all 
particular as to soil, provided it be not wet or heavy. 
Moderately enriched, liglit soils, are those most congenial 
to it. 

For open field culture. Melons should be planted in hills 
six feet each way, incorporating well with the soil in 
each hill a couple of shovelfuls of thoroughly rotted 
manure. Sow four or five seeds in each hill,* and culti- 
vate afterward as for Corn. 

A clover sod is especially favorable for Melons. The 
main point is to push the crop forward as rapidly as pos- 
sible, so as to catch the high prices which usually rule 
for an early crop. One of the Melon growers of Hacken- 
sack, New Jersey, admitted to me that he had lost the 
whole of his late crop by withholding the expenditure of 
$25 or 130 for guano on his field of twelve acres, which, 
if used at the planting, would have pushed the crop for- 
ward six or eight days, and would thus have saved it 
from an early fall frost. For this reason, a dressing of 
guano or bone-meal, well mixed with the soil, should 
always be used if we would attain the most profitable 
results. It is a crop that can be as easily raised, as a 
crop of Corn, and when sold at wholesale, it is safe to 
say, will always pay a profit of at least $100 per acre. 
The variety most preferred for this section is that known 
as Hackensack, which is grown by the hundreds of acres 
for the Xew York market. The most successful growers 
greatly increase the yield of this crop by a system of 

* The term " hill," when used here and elsewhere, means but a slight 
elevation of the surface, and is used only as a convenient term to denote 
where the seed or plant is to be planted. But from the signification of 
the word, it naturally leads the novice in gardening into very serious 
error, by causing him to think he must literally raise a hill on which to 
sow or plant, and in consequence we too frequently see plants elevated 
on little knolls a foot or more above the general surface from which the 
rain slides, and on which the san beats to their utter destruction. 



I 



VEGETABLES— MELOX. 225 

pinclnng the main vino, so lu to encourage the lateral 
shoots upon which the fruit is borne. A large grower in 
the vicinity of Hackensack, New Jereey, a noted locality 
in this respect, gives the following details of the culture : 

Melons are a special crop which needs particular 
care and culture. In some localities they are grown for 
market in great quantities. It is said that, on one 
evening in 1885, IGO two-horse wagon loads, each of 
about 1,000 Melons, crossed by one ferry from a suburb 
of New York City. And this was by no means an extra 
occasion. The Melon season lasts from July into Octo- 
ber, so that some idea may be gained from this of the 
magnitude of this business. The crop is a very profit- 
able one when skilfully cultivated, and often realizes 
$500 to $1,000 an acre, and more rarely even as high as 
$1,500, when the Melons are the first in the market and 
bring the highest price of the season. But as with other 
products, these large profits are only realized by those 
growers whose long experience and skill give them more 
than usual advantages. The methods, however, are no 
secret, and any one who will follow them may just as 
easily meet with the same success. 

The most suitable soil for Melons is a rich, warm, 
deep, sandy loam, having a southern or southwestern 
exposure. The latter is preferable, as it gets the last 
rays of the sun and the soil is thus warmed up for the 
night, and, being sheltered from eastern and northern 
winds, retains this warmth until the morning. This 
may make several days' difference in the rijoening of the 
crop, which may be equivalent to $300 or $400 an acre 
in the value of the fruit. The manner of culture is 
as follows : The soil is plowed in the fall or early in the 
spring and is cross-plowed the first days of May, about 
twenty loads per acre of manure being plowed under, in 
addition to the special manuring for each hill. The 
ground is then well harrowed and furrowed out six feet 



226 GARDENIXG FOR PROFIT. 

apart each way. A good shovelful of mixed fine manure 
and night soil, together with a small handful of guano, 
is used in each hill, being mixed with the soil, for nine 
inches deep and twenty-four inches wide ; six or eight 
seeds are planted in each hill. The first planting is 
early in May ; other plantings may be continued through 
June. The hill is raised two or three inches above the 
surface, and is made about two feet broad and quite flat. 
When the plants appear above the surface they require 
protection from cut worms, which would otherwise cut 
the stems and destroy them ; and as the rough leaves 
appear, the weaker plants are thinned out and only three 
left. A good method of protecting the plants aganist 
the cut worms is to make a ring of thick paper, about a 
foot in diameter and three inches broad, and place this 
around them, so as to form an obstacle over which they 
cannot climb. The after cultivation consists of deep 
plowing at intervals, at least twice, and frequent cultiva- 
tion, until the vines begin to run, when the terminal 
buds are pinched off to cause the growth of the lateral 
branches. The main vine produces chi&fly male or bar- 
ren flowers, and if this is left to run, the laterals would 
not push out and there would be little or no fruit. The 
lateral shoots bear the female or perfect flowers, and to 
encourage the growth of these, is one of the secrets of 
Melon culture upon which the profits depend. The same 
peculiarity of growth is found in all the gourd tribe, and 
applies to Squashes, Cucumbers and Water Melons, as well 
as to Musk Melons, careful attention to which, other 
things being right, makes success certain. 

The pests of the Melon are lice, the striped beetle, and 
the squash bug. The lice appear on the under side of 
the leaves and are difficult to get at, so that the simplest 
and most effective remedy is to pinch off the affected 
leaves or the part of the vine and carry it away and burn 
it. If left undisturbed, the lice from one hill will quickly 



VEGETABLES — MELON. 227 

spread over several square rods and completely destroy 
the crop. A sure pveoentive against the lice or Aphis 
is tobacco, which, if either in the form of refuse stems 
or dust, is strewn on the hill, the lice will ne\er appear ; 
it will also act as a preventive against the striped bug. 
The striped beetle is the worst enemy to deal with. It 
lays its eggs on the stem, at the ground, and the small 
grubs work their way to the root and feed upon it. The 
first indication of their presence is 'the wilting of the 
leaves — '"going down" of the vines, the growers call it 
— and vine after vine thus goes down, until at times the 
larger part of the crop may be destroyed when the Melons 
are half grown. The remedy for this pest is to apply 
strong tobacco water around the stem on the first appear- 
ance of the small striped beetle and repeat it in a few 
days, and to repeat it again as soon as the wilting of the 
first leaf is noticed. The fruit begins to ''net" about 
two weeks before it ripens, and the indications of ripe- 
ness are the fragrant scent, the softness of the blossom 
end of the melon, and the cracking and easy parting of 
the stem. 

Too much care cannot be used in sowino- the seeds of 
all plants of chis class, as they cross very readily ; for 
this reason, when seeds are to be saved from any par- 
ticular variety, care must be taken that it is widely re- 
moved from any other — not less than 300 yards. If 
seed is not wanted, improper crossing will make no 
difference to the fruit that season, but the seed — the pro- 
duct of that crop — will be affected thereby, and its im- 
purity developed in the fruit raised from it. 

From the facility with which the Melon intermixes, it 
follows that the varieties are very numerous, and for the 
same reason it is difficult to retain varieties pure. The 
following seem to be the most fixed in character, and are 
the varieties in general use: 

Early Hackensack* — This is an improvement of recent 



238 



GARDENIiq'G FOR PROFIT. 



introduction on the well-known ^'Hackensack," de- 
scribed below, in being from five to six days earlier. 
This earliness gave a grower in Albany, New York, last 
summer (1886), over SlOO more per acre in using this 
variety, above all other kinds tried. In size it is some- 




Fig. 59. — HACKEN3ACK MUSK MELON. 

what smaller, but it is similar in other respects to the 
large Hackensack. 

Hackciisack. — (See figure 59.) This is now one of the 
most popular varieties grown for market by the gardeners 
of this vicinity. It attains a large size, is round in shape 
and flattened at the ends ; skin green and thickly netted. 
The flesh also is green, and rich and sugary in flavor. 
It is wonderfully productive. 

Golden IVettcd ftera.— (See figure 
60.) This is one of the earliest, 
and no doubt the best small Melon 
grown. The fruit is globe-shaped, 
uniform in size, weighing from one 
and a quarter to one pound and 
Fig ()0— GOLDEN NETTED a half cach. The flesh is light- 
GEM MUSK MELON. grccu, aud of fine flavor. 

'• Daltimore* — (See figure 61.) This is a productive and 




VEGETABLES — MELOJf. 



/i\iJ 



excellent shipping Melon, that can always be found in its 
season in the best hotels and restaurants of ^N'ew York, 




Fig. 61. — BALTIMORE MUSK MELON. 

Philadelphia and Baltimore. It is a thick, green-fleshe^ 
variety of oblong form, and of excellent flavor. In Bal- 
timore and farther south this class of Melon is known 
a? Cantaloupe. 

Montreal Market.— (See figure 62.) The Melons of 




Fig. 62.— MONTREAL MAUKET MUSK MELON. 

this excellent variety are of the largest size. We have 



230 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

had them weighing over twenty pounds. In form it is 
ahnost round and deeply ribbed. The skin is green and 
netted ; flesh green, very thick and of the finest flavor. 
It is largely raised for the markets of Montreal, where it 
is justly highly esteemed. 

Green iltron. — This excellent Melon was formerly 
the leading variety in our New York markets, but of late 
years it has been superseded by the Hackensack. The 
fruit is of medium size, deeply netted, of globular shape 
and six to eight inches in diameter. Flesh green and of 
fine flavor. 



MELON.— Water. — {Citrullus vulgaris.) 

Like the Musk Melon, when cultivated for sale, this is 
essentially a plant more suited for the farm than the 
garden, as it requires even more space in which to grow. 
The soil best suited to it is a rather sandy loam, heavier 
soils being apt to induce a too strong growth of leaves. 
It should be planted about the same time and cultivated 
in all respects the same as the Musk Melon, only that the 
hills should not be less than eight feet apart. It is grown 
in immense quantities on the light sandy soils of New 
Jersey for the New York and Philadelphia markets, in 
which it is said to give a profit of from $50 to $100 per 
acre. But it is in the vicinity of our Soutliern cities — 
Charleston, Savannah, and also many points in Florida, 
etc., where we have regular steamboat communication, 
that these tropical fruits can be grown at a high rate of 
profit to the cultivator. 

Water Melons grown in the vicinity of Charleston in 
July are sold by the tens of thousands in New York to 
the consumer at $1 each, wdiile those grown in Southern 
Jersey in August and September, are a drug at fifteen 
and twenty-five cents. The leading varieties are: 



VEGETABLES— MELOX. 231 

» 

Phinney's Early. — Very early, productive, of medium 
size and quality. 

Ice Cream. — The White Seeded Ice Cream or Peerless 
is of medium size, skin pale green, flesh scarlet, of the 
best quality. 

Mountain Sweet. — An old favorite. It is of large size, 
oblong shape, skin very dark green, flesh red, solid and 
very sweet. 

Rattlesnake or Gypsy. — (See figure 63.) Now per- 
haps the leading market variety. The Melons are oblong 




Fig. 63.— STEIPED GYPSY WATEKMELON, 

in shape, the rind is light green in color, with wavy 
stripes of dark green ; flesh bright red and of fine flavor. 
One of the very best Melons for shipping. 

Kolb's Gem. — A new and early variety that is already 
largely grown, particularly in the South, for shipment to 
the Northern markets. Commission dealers say that as 
a shipping variety it is hardly equaled. The fruit is 
nearly round, rind dark green, somewhat marbled with 
lighter shades. The Melons will vary from twenty-five 
to fifty pounds each in weight. 

Mammoth Ironclad. — This variety is of mammoth 
size, specimens often weighing eighty pounds and up- 
wards. The rind is marked with regular stripes of light 
and dark green. It is a very showy variety of fair qual- 
ity. Shape oblong. 



332 



GARDENING FOK PROFIT. 



Iciii^ or Ice Rind,— (See figure G4.) There are two 
types of this Melon — dark and light, both of excellent 




Fig. 64.— ICING OK ICE RIND WATERMELON. 

flavor. This is the favorite variety of the market gar- 
deners of South New Jersey. 

Black Spanish I — Fruit medium size, almost round ; 
skin dark green ; flesh red, sweet and delicious. 

Scaly Bark. — (See figure 65.) The rind of this is very 
thin, and yet so tough and strong that it will bear any 




Fig. 65. — SCALT BARK WATERMELON. 

amount of handling before bursting or cracking open. 
This characteristic gives to the variety special value for 
shipping purposes. The flesh is light scarlet in color, and 



VEGETA BLES — MELON — IITXT. '^33 

of excellent flavor. To give some idea of Avhat pressure 
this variety will bear, we state the fact that^ in 1884, a 
specimen of this variety left at our office stood a pressure 
of 1,250 pounds before breaking. There are numerous 
other varieties constantly being offered by seedsmen, a 
few of which are meritorious, although the majority of 
them are worthless. Besides the sorts already given, the 
variety known as Pride of Georgia is worthy of mention. 

Citron* — Outwardly a very handsome Melon. The 
fruit is of small size, but not worth growing as a ripened 
fruit. It is used to some extent for making sweetmeats, 
for which purpose it is alone cultivated. 



MINT. — {Mentha viridis.) 

A hardy perennial plant, found growing in abundance 
along the roadsides in many places. It is often grown in 
gardens, however, and is used in soups, sauces, salads, 
etc., very generally. It is of the easiest culture. It is 
increased by divisions of the root, and planted at dis- 
tances of a foot apart. It quickly forms a mass, which 
may be cut from for many years without renewal. It is 
grown to a considerable extent in hot-beds and forcing- 
pits, in the same way as Letaice, and sold in the markets 
in early spring. 

Its treatment there is very simple, being merely to lift 
up the roots in solid mass, placing them on the three or 
four inches of earth in the hot-bed or bench of the forcing- 
house, and water freely as soon as it begins to grow. 
The sale is not large, but growers realize about $10 per 
sash (three by six), for what is thus grown throughout 
winter and spring. 



234 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

MART YNIA. — {Marty nia proboscidea. ) 

A vegetable used to a considerable extent for pickling, 
the pods or fruit of which are produced in the greatest 
abundance. It is cultivated by sowing in open ground in 
April or May, and transplanting to two feet each way in 
June ; it is fit for use in July aud August. 



lllLJJSTARD—iSinapis alba, and S. nigra.) 

Is used for culinary purposes as a salad, usually in con- 
junction with Cress. For this purpose it may be had 
throughout the entire season, by sowing during winter in 
hot-beds or forcing-pits, and, on the opening of sjn-ing, 
in the open ground, where, by sowing at intervals of 
two or three weeks, it may be had in proper condition 
for use throughout the year. Sow thickly in rows, one 
foot apart, on any soil. 

White Mustard. — This is the variety mostly used as a 
salad ; the seeds are bright yellow, and are used in the 
manufacture of the Mustard of commerce. 

Black Mustard. — This variety is hardly distinguishable 
from the preceding, except in the color of its seeds, which 
are dark-brown ; they are used for medicinal purposes, 
and also in manufacture of Mustard. 



MUSHROOM. — {Agaricus campestris.) 

I know of no vegetable which has such a novelty and 
interest to the beginner as the cultivation of the Mush- 
room. In all other vegetables he sees something tangible 
to start with — seeds, plants or roots ; but here we may 
almost say he sees neither, for the seeds cannot be seen 



VEG KTABLES— M rSHROOM. 



235 



with the naked eye, and it requires an nniisual effort of 
the imagination to believe the wiiite moldy substance we 
call spawn to be either plants or roots. There are so 
many different systems of growing the Mushroom, de- 
tailed in most of the works on gardening, that the reader 
is too often bewildered in choosing a guide. In this I 
will only detail one method, which I have practiced for 
many years with unfailing success. 

To make the cultivation of the Mushroom profitable, 
it must be done in a building, either specially erected for 
the purpose, or in some 
shed, stable or cellar al- 
ready on the premises, 
and which can be con- 
verted to that use. The 
most suitable place, in 
establishments having 
greenhouses, vineries or 
forcing pits, are the back 
sheds, usually erected over 
the boiler pits, such as are 
shown in the plans of 
forcing-pits in this work. 
But such a structure is 
not indispensable. Any 
place where a temperature of from fifty to sixty degrees 
can be sustained during winter will suit. We have also 
grown them under the stages of our greenhouses, but 
our *^ modern improvements" of late years allow us no 
longer room for the operation there. The time of begin- 
ning may be any time during winter. We have usually 
begun our preparations about December 1st, which 
brought our beds into bearing about February 1st, at the 
season that Mushrooms begin to be most wanted. 

Our method of growing Mushrooms is very simple, and 
can be accomplished to a certainty by any one conforming 




Fig. 66. — MUSHROOMS. 



230 QARDENII!^G FOK PROFIT. 

strictly to the following directions. Let fresh horse 
droppings be procured from the stables each day, in quan- 
tity not less, perhaps, than a good barrow load ; to every 
barrow load of droppings add about the same weight of 
fresh loam from a pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind, 
in fact, that has not been manured — the danger of old 
manured soil being that it may contain spurious fungi. 
Let the droppings aud soil be mixed together, day by 
day, as the droppings can be procured ; if they can be 
had all at once, in quantity enough, so much the better. 
Let the heap be turned every day, so that it is not 
allowed to heat violently, until you have got quantity 
enough to form the bed of the dimensions required. Be 
careful that your heap is under cover, so that it cannot 
possibly get wet. 

The most convenient size for a bed is from four to five 
feet in width, and if the Mushrooms are wanted in quan- 
tity, it is the plan most economical of space to start on 
the floor of the house with the first bed, the additional ones 
to be formed of shelving, four feet wide by ten inches deep, 
raised one above another, something like the berths in a 
steamboat. Now, from the prepared heap of droppings and 
soil, spread over the bed a thin layer ; pound this firmly 
down with a brick ; then another layer, pounded down as 
before, and so on until it reaches a depth of eight inches. 
Be careful that it be no more nor less than eight inches ; 
more would cause the mass to heat too violently, while 
less is hardly enough. Into this bed plunge a thermometer; 
in a day or two the bed will heat so that it will run up to 
100 degrees or over, and as soon as it declines to ninety- 
five or ninety, take a dibber or sharp stick and make holes 
all over the bed, at the distance of about twelve inches each 
way, to about half the depth of the bed. Into each hole 
put a piece of spawn of the size of a hen's Qgg or so, cov- 
ering up the hole again with the compost, so that it will 
present the same level, firm surface as before the spawn was 



VEGETABLES — MUSHROOM. 237 

put in. Let it remain in this condition for about ten or 
twelve days, by which time the spawn will have ^'run" 
through the whole bed. This is the method when ^' brick 
spawn " is used. When '^ French Flake " or loose spawn 
is used, make holes with the hand all over the bed four or 
five inches deep and wide, in which place a handful of the 
loose spawn, and again beat it down to its original firm- 
ness. Now spread evenly over the surface of the bed nearly 
two inches of fresh loam, firm it down moderately with 
the back of a spade, and cover up the bed with three or 
four inches of hay or straw ; this completes the whole 
operation of *' planting the crop." Nothing now remains 
to be done but to give attention to the proper degrees of 
heat and moisture. 

If you can control the means of heating so that the 
place can be kept uniformly at a temperature of sixty 
degrees, all the better, but if not, it may range from 
fifty to sixty degrees. It should never get much be- 
low fifty degrees, else the bed will become cold too 
quickly, and delay the crop until too late in the season 
to be profitable. Unless the air of the house has been 
unusually dry, the Mushrooms will appear before any 
water is required. But examination should be made, and 
if the surface of the bed appears dry, a gentle sprinkling 
of water, heated to about 100 degrees, must be given. 
With this treatment, beginning in December, our first 
crop is ready for use in February, and as the Mushrooms 
do not come up all at once, it takes about three weeks to 
gather the crop, which is fit to gather when the Mush- 
rooms have got to be an average of about three inches in 
diameter, the under side having a delicate pink color. In 
gathering the crop, it is best to give the Mushrooms a 
slight twist, so as to disturb as little as possible the young 
ones which usually come up in dense clusters, as shown 
in the engraving. After the first. crop has been gathered, 
a slight dressing of fresh soil, of about half an inch in 



238 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

depth, is spread over the hed, and again beaten down with 
the spade. This is gently watered with tepid water when 
dry, and a second ciop of Mushrooms (often better than 
the first), is gathered in March. 

To show how a simple oversiglit in our operations may 
defeat the whole work, I will state that, in my first at- 
tempt at Mushroom growing, I labored for two years 
without being able to produce a single Mushroom. In 
my apprentice days we had known no such word as fail 
in so simple a matter, but here, on my first attempt on 
my own responsibility, I was met by total failure. Every 
authority was consulted, all the various methods tried, 
but witli no better success. In all such cases something 
must be blamed, and'I pronounced the spawn as worth- 
less ; but my good-natured employer quietly suggested 
that this could not well be, as a friend of his had abun- 
dant crops growing from spawn received from the same 
source. Driven into a corner by this information, I made 
another exploration of my ** authorities," and was fortu- 
nate to find in one of them a single sentence that at once 
showed where my error had been. It was to ^^ be careful 
to delay the covering with mold until ten or twelve days 
after the bed had been spawned." 

Now, in all the different methods I had tried, I had in 
each invariably put in the spawn, and at once put on the 
two-inch covering of soil, which had the effect to shut 
down the steam, thereby raising the temperature in the 
bed to a degree to destroy the spawn, and consequently 
to defeat my whole operations. My excuse for this di- 
gression is to show the importance of Avhat might other- 
wise be thought unnecessary details. 

The plan of one of our most successful Mushroom 
growers in the neighborhood of New York is practically 
that of my own just given, except that he makes a differ- 
ence in covering. Instead of using the two inches of 
loose soil, as was my method, he uses old compact sod. 



y VEGETABLES — MUSHROOM. 239 

cut two inclies thick, placing the grassy side downward. 
This he has found in his experience to be the best method, 
whicli his extraordinary success seems to well attest. 

Although spawn is procurable at cheap rates in all hor- 
ticultural stores, yet to such as desire to make it them- 
selves 1 give the following brief directions. Take equal 
portions of horse droppings, cow dung and fresh loam ; 
mix the whole thoroughly together, as you would make 
mortar ; then form it into cakes aboul the size of large 
bricks ; place these on edge, under cover, until they be- 
come half dry ; then insert into each a piece of spawn 
half an inch or so square; let the bricks remain until they 
are quite dry. Then spread about eight inches of horse 
dung over the floor of the shed, on which build the bricks 
in a pile three feet wide by three feet high, keeping the 
side in which the spawn has been put uppermost ; then 
cover them over with sufficient stable mauure, so as to 
give a gentle heat through the whole. In two or three 
weeks the spawn will have spread itself through the 
whole mass of each brick. They are then removed to a 
dry place, and will retain their vital properties for many 
years. There is not the least question that the cultivation 
of Mushrooms for market, forced in the manner detailed, 
will give a larger profit for the labor and capital invested 
than that from any other vegetable. The supply has 
never yet been half enough, and sellers have had prices 
almost pretty much as they pleased. 

I know of no house in this vicinity — there are some, I 
believe, in Canada — that have been especially erected for 
the purpose, and the markets have been supplied from 
beds formed in out-of-the-way corners, giving only an 
uncertain and irregular supply, very discouraging to buy- 
ers. I have no doubt whatever that Mushroom houses, 
roughly built, but exclusively devoted to that purpose, 
would, in the vicinity of any of our large cities, pay a 
profit of thirty per cent, per annum on cost of construe- 



240 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

tion. I am often asked if it will pay to raise Mushrooms 
outside during summer. I do not think it would, unless 
under special contract, as, besides being less appreciated 
in hot weather, they come in competition with those 
grown in the fields. If, however, it is desired to raise 
the crop in summer, adopt exactly the plan above ad- 
vised ; all that is necessary to see to is, that the beds are 
made in the shade and protected against rain. 



NASTTIRTITJM.~lNDiAN Cress.— ( Tropceolum.) 

A plant at once highly ornamental and useful. The 
shoots and flower buds are sometimes used as a salad, but 
it is grown for its seed-pods, which are pickled in vin- 
egar and used as a substitute for capers. It can be grown 
in almost any soil or situation, entwining itself around 
strings, brush or trellis work, that may be given for its 
support. It may be sown thinly in drills an inch or so 
deep, in April or May. There are many beautiful vari- 
eties, but the following are only those in use in our vege- 
table gardens. 

Tall Nasturtium {T. majns), attains a height of eight 
or nine feet ; the flowers are yellow, blotched with crim- 
son. This variety makes an excellent screen or covering 
for unsightly places in the garden. 

Dwarf Nasturtium [T. minu,^^)— This, in growth, is 
quite distinct from the preceding, never attaining more 
than three feet ; it should be sown thinly in drills, three 
feet wide, and staked up with brush like Peas. Its flow- 
ers are handsome, bright yellow, blotched with scarlet. 



TEGETABLES — OKRA — ONION". 241 

OKRA OS, GUMBO. — {Abelmoachus esculentus.) 

This vegetable is extensively grown in the Southern 
States. Its long pods, when young, are used in soups, 
stews, etc., and are believed to be very nutritious. It is 
of the easiest culture, and grows freely, bearing abun- 
dantly on any ordinary garden soil. It is sown at the 
usual time of all tender vegetables — in this district in 
May — in drills two inches deep, and 'from eighteen to 
twenty-four inches apart in the rows for the dwarf sorts ; 
for the tall, nearly double that width. There are now 
the following sorts : New Dwarf Prolific, Dwarf White, 
Dwarf Green and Tall G-reen. 



O'SlOl^.— {Allium Cepa.) 

Next to Cabbages, perhaps Onions are the most profit- 
able crop of our market gardens, in which they are 
grown from sets, and nearly all sold in bunches in the 
green or unripened state. Grown from seed, they are cul- 
tivated almost exclusively by farmers or men who devote 
farm land to this purpose alone. Thus grown they are 
sold in the dry state, and form an important article of 
commerce. 

I will first describe the manner of cultivating in our 
market gardens. To produce the " sets," or small bulbs, 
that are planted to give early Onions to be sold green, a 
poor piece of ground is chosen as early as it is fit to work 
in spring. It is brought into a thorough state of pulver- 
ization by plowing, harrowing and raking, so that the 
surface is level and free of stones. A line is then stretched, 
and lines are marked out by the nine-inch side of the 
marker. In these the seed is sown m beds of six rows 
wide, rubbing out every seventh row marked, so that it 
forms an alley eighteen inches wide. For this purpose 



242 GARDEJ^IIirG FOR PROFIT. 

the seed is sown quite thickly, and on poor soil, so as to 
produce the ^'sets" as small as possible, for we find that 
whenever they much exceed half an inch in diameter, 
they will ran to seed. It matters not how small the bulb 
is ; even when of the size of the smallest Peas, they make 
an equally good if not a better crop than if of a larger size. 
The sets are taken up in August, well dried, placed 
with the chaff among them in a loft of a stable or barn, 
about four inches deep, covered up by six inches of hay 
on the approach of hard frost, and left thus until wanted 
for setting out in spring. This is the usual method of 
raising Onion sets. 

But few market gardeners can grow them in the ordi- 
nary manner, unless at a cost greater than they can be 
purchased for from those who make a business of grow- 
ing them. But the price paid for sets the past six or 
eight years has been so high that many market gardeners 
have abandoned growing Onions from them. 

For Onion sets the best soil of the garden is chosen, 
manured with short, well-rotted manure, plowed in at 
the rate of seventy-five tons to the acre. When only con- 
centrated manures can be obtained, crushed bone is pre- 
ferable to guano (for quantity see Chapter on Manures). 
The ground is further deeply liarrowed, finishing with 
the smoothing harrow (see Implements), or, if on a small 
scale, smoothed fine with the rake. The line is now 
stretched along the bed, and the nine-inch marker again 
makes the di-ills, six in each bed, with the seventh 
rubbed out for an alley. The sets are now planted in the 
drills at a distance of two to three inches apart, pressing 
each bulb down firmly, so that it will keep right side up. 
The row is then closed in by the feet or a rake, so that 
the set is entirely covered up. The ground is then rolled 
over, so as to render it still more compact around the 
bulbs ; as soon as the lines can be traced, by the Onions 
starting to grow, the hoe is applied between the rows, 



VEGETABLES — OXION. 213 

and the soil broken between the phmts by the fingers, 
where the hoe cannot reach, so as to destroy the germs of 
the weeds. If attended to in time, twice going over with 
hoeing and weeding is sufficient until the crop is fit for 
market, which it begins to be about the first week in 
June, and is usually all gathered by the first week in July, 
so as to give us time for second crops. 

■ When we first begin to send them to market, they are 
usually not more than half grown, and are washed and 
tied in bunches containing from nine to twelve Onions ; 
later, when full grown, from six to seven. This crop is 
one requiring considerable labor and expense to get it in 
shape to sell, taking cost of sets, labor, manure, etc., 
probably not less than $300 per acre, for the past fifteen 
years; but the receipts have been correspondingly high, 
averaging in that time quite $500 per acre. 

Onions, planted from sets, rarely fail to give a crop on 
any kind of soil, provided it has been well manured ; and 
although they are sold by the market gardeners in the 
green state, they are equally good, ripened and dried, 
when raised from sets as from seed. The quantity of 
sets required per acre is from six to ten bushels, accord- 
ing to size. At present prices, they cost 16 per bushel. 

Another plan to get early Onions to sell green, is to 
sow the seed in fall in rows from nine to twelve inches 
apart. The time of sowing is of great importance, and 
varies, of course, with the locality. In the latitude of 
New York they may be sown from 5th to 20th Septem- 
ber ; they do not always stand the winter well here, but 
it is well worth the risk, as the cost of seed is trifling, 
compared to cost of setting, and when they stand well 
the crop is usually better than from sets. A dry, well 
sheltered soil in this location is a necessity to enable the 
crop to stand the winter. 

The following instructions are given for raising Onions 
as a farm crop to be sold when mature : 



244 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

It is the generally received opinion that Onions grow 
best in old ground. This we think is an error ; it is not 
because the ground is '"old," or has been long cultivated, 
that the Onions do better there, but because such lands, 
from their long culture, are usually better pulverized ; 
and experience has shown us repeatedly that wheu new 
soil has been equally well pulverized and fertilized with 
the old, an equally good crop is obtained and usually a 
crop more exempt from rust. As a matter of fact, the 
finest crop of Onions we ever beheld was on sandy 
swamp land, which had been first thoroughly drained 
and broken up. In fact', new soils, particularly when 
broken up from pasture land — turned over early enough 
in the fall so that the sod is completely rotted — make 
excellent land for Onion crops, as they are usually free 
from weeds. Soils of this kind, however, must be well 
pulverized by the use of the plow, Acme and smooth- 
ing harrow, or good results may not follow. Much de- 
pends on the quality of such soil. If rather sandy loam, 
it will, of course, be much easier to pulverize than if stiff 
or clayey loam, and such soil, in our experience, is always 
preferable for most crops. Such soils, also, are nearly 
always free from under water, rarely requiring artificial 
drainage if the land is level, and it always should be 
selected as level as possible for the Onion crop, as when 
land slopes to any great extent, much damage is often 
done by washing out, the Onion roots being near the sur- 
face, consequently cannot so well resist floods, as crops 
that root deeper. 

Many Onion growers who make a specialty of the busi- 
ness, find it is economical to alternate the Onion crop 
with a green one, such as German Millet, which can be 
cut for hay in July, the "^ stubble"' plowed down in 
August, giving a fresh fibrous soil clear of weeds for the 
Onion crop to be sown next spring. It is not claimed 
that the alternation of a green crop with the Onions is a 



I 



\ 



VEGETABLES — ONION^. 245 

necessity, as it is well known that the Onion is one of 
the very few crops that do not seem benefited by 
alternating ; but it is claimed that it gives almost entire 
freedom from weeds, as after a crop of Millet, which has 
been cut before its seed is ripe, few troublesome weeds 
Avill come up the next year. 

MANURES. 

I have always held the opinion that when well-rotted 
stable manure, whether from horses or cows, can be pro- 
cured at a cost not exceeding $3 per ton, delivered on 
the ground, it is cheaper and better than any kind of 
concentrated fertilizer. It should be plowed in at the 
rate of thirty tons to the acre. The concentrated ferti- 
lizers in the market are now so numerous that it would 
be invidious to specify particular brands. We ourselves, 
except in using occasionally the "blood and bone ferti- 
lizer," which we have proved to be excellent, use only 
pure ground bone and Peruvian guano, which, for Onions, 
we prefer to mix in equal parts, sowing it on tlie land, 
after plowing, at the rate of at least one ton per acre of 
the mixture (when no stable mtinure has been used), 
after sowing to be harrowed in, as described in '^ Prepar-- 
ing the Ground." 

One of the most valuable manures for the Onion crop 
are the droppings from the chicken or pigeon-house, 
which, when mixed with twice their weight of lime, coal 
or wood ashes, so as to disintegrate and pulverize, may 
be sown on tlie land after plowing, to be harrowed in 
at the rate of three or four tons per acre of the mixture. 
Night soil, when mixed with dry muck, coal ashes, char- 
coal dust, lime, or lime rubbish, as absorbents, and spread 
on after plowing, at the rate of six or eight tons per 
acre, and harrowed deeply in, the mixture will never fail 
to produce a heavy crop of Onions in any suitable soil. 

There are many other manures that will answer the 



240 GARDENIXG roK PBOFIT. 

purpose, often to be had in special localities, snch as the 
refuse hops and *^ grains" from breweries, which should 
be used in the same manner and in similar quantities as 
stable manure ; while fish guano, whalebone shavings, 
or shavings from horn, when pulverized so as to be in 
proper condition for plant food, are nearly equal in value 
to ground bone. Wood ashes alone, spread on at the rate 
of five or six tons per acre, will usually give excellent 
results. 

It is well to keep the fact in mind that it will alwa3^s 
be more profitable to fertilize one acre of Onions well, 
than two acres imperfectly. If thirty tons of stable ma- 
nure or one ton and a half of concentrated fertilizer are 
used to an acre, the net profits are almost certain to be 
larger, than if that quantity had been spread over two 
acres ; for in all probability nearly as much weight of 
crop would be produced upon the one well-manured acre 
as upon the two that had been imperfectly manured, 
besides the saving of seed and labor in cultivating one 
acre instead of two. 

PREPARING THE GROUND^ 

In preparing the ground for the reception of the seed 
(if it has been plowed the fall previous), plowing should 
be begun as soon as the land is dry enough to work, first 
having spread over the land well-rotted stable manure, at 
the rate of thirty tons to the acre. This should be lightly 
turned under, plowing not more than five or six inches 
dosp, and covering the manure so that it will be three or 
four inches under the surface. For this reason the ma- 
nure must be well rotted, otherwise it cannot be well 
covered by the plow. If concentrated, fertilizers are to 
be used, it is best to plow the hind up roughly, sow the 
fertilizer at the rate of one to two tons per acre, accord- 
ing to its fertilizing properties ; then harrow thoroughly. 



VEGETABLES — ONION. 247 

SO that it is tliorongbly incorporated wifcli the soil. After 
harrowing with an ordinary toothed harrow, tlie surface 
should be further leveled Avith a Smoothing or Diso har- 
row. The revolving discs pulverize the soil to a depth 
of three inches much better than it can be done by 
raking, and the smoothing board, which follows in the 
wake of the revolving wheels, makes the surface, if free 
from stones, as smooth as a board — far better than it can 
be done by raking. 

The ground being thus prepared, the next thing is the 
sowing of the seed, about six pounds being used per acre. 
This, of course, now-a-days, is always done by the seed- 
drilling machine, of which there are many in the market; 
we ourselves give preference to the Planet Jr. In sow- 
ing the first row, a line must be tightly stretched so as to 
have that row straight, after which the marker can readily 
regulate the other rows. The favorite distance apart for 
Onion rows is fifteen inches, though they are sometimes 
sown as close as twelve inches, leaving put every ninth 
row for an alley, thus forming beds of eight rows each. 
"Where there is reason to believe that weeds may be 
troublesome, this plan of forming into beds has the 
advantage of the alley (twenty-four inches wide), into 
which to throw the weeds. 

V/e so fixedly believe in the value of firming in the 
seeds after sowing, that we advise, in addition to the clos- 
ing and firming of the seeds by the drill, to use a roller 
besides, particularly if the land is light, or where the soil 
lias not been sufficiently firmed down. 

There is no other crop where the adage of a *^ stitch in 
time " IS so applicable as in the Onion crop, therefore, just 
as soon as the lines can be seen, which will be in ten or 
twelve days after sowing, apply the scufHe hoe between 
the rows. There are a great many styles of hand culti- 
vators, many of which are exceedingly useful when the 
Onions get strong enough after weeding ; for the first 



248 GAUDE>"I>^a FOR PROFIT. 

lioeing, after the seed shows the lines, we prefer the 
Phinet Jr. Double Wheel Hoe. 

The distance at which Onions should stand in the rows 
is from one to two inches, and if the crop is sow^n evenly 
and thinly, few require to be taken out, but w^hether it 
is weeds or onions that are to be removed, one thing 
should never be lost sight of — that when this operation 
is done, every inch of the surface should be broken. 
This is best done after hoeing, by using a wooden lawn 
rake all over the land, raking lightly across the rows. It 
is one of the most common mistakes in a laborer when 
weeding or hoeing, if he sees no weeds, to pass over sucli 
portions without breaking the crust. By this neglect, 
not only is it most likely that he passes another crop of 
weeds in embryo under the unbroken crust, but the por- 
tion unbroken loses the stirrinof so necessarv for the well- 
being of the crop. 

In our long experience in garden operations, we have 
had more trouble to keep our workmen up to the mark 
in this matter than in any other ; and I never fail, when 
I discover a man guilty of such negligence, to set him 
back over his work until he does it properly, and if he 
again fails to do so, promptly dismiss him. 

The Onion crop is usually fit to harvest, in this section, 
from 5th to 20th of August ; that is, when the seed 
has been sown in early spring, which should be not 
later than May 1st, if possible, and if by April 1st all the 
better. If the seed is sown too late, it may delay the 
time of ripening, which may result in a complete loss of 
the crop, for, if the bulbs are not ripened by August, 
there is danger, if September is wet, that they will not 
ripen at all, hence the great necessity of early seeding in 
spring. 

If the Onion crop is growing very strong, it will facili- 
tate the ripening process if we bend down the leaves 
with the back of a wooden rake, or some such implement. 



VEGETABLES — OXiOX. 249 

BO as to **knee " them, as it is called, at the neck of the 
bnlb ; this checks the flow of sap, and tends to ripen the 
bnlb. 

After the tops of the Onions become yellow and whither 
np, they should then be pulled without unnecessary de- 
lay, for if there is continued wet weather, and we delay 
the pulling too long, a secondary growth of the bulbs 
may be developed, which would seriously injure the crop. 
After pulling, lay the bulbs in convenient rows, so as to 
cover the ground, but not to lie on each other. By turn- 
ing them every day or two, in six or eight days they will 
usually be dry enough to be carted to their storage quar- 
ters, where tlie shriveled tops are cut off, and the Onions 
stored on slatted shelves to the depth of six or eight 
inches, in some dry and airy place. It is of importance 
to have the bottom of the shelves slatted, so as to leave 
spaces an inch or so apart, that air can be admitted at 
the bottom as well as the top of the heap. The shelves, 
when all the space at hand is to be made available, may 
be constructed one above another. But if to be kept 
through the winter, the Onions must be protected in 
some building capable of resisting severe frost, or they 
mus^ be covered with hay or straw as a protection against 
extreme cold. For, although the Onion will stand a 
moderate degree of frost, any long continuation of a zero 
temperature would injure them. When frozen, they 
should never be handled, as in that condition they are 
easily blemished, and would rot. When kept in barrels, 
holes should be bored in the sides for ventilation, and 
they should be left unheaded until shipping time, to 
permit the escape of any moisture that may be generated. 

For the insects and other enemies that attack the 
Onion crop, I am much afraid there are few if any effec- 
tive remedies. Every year's experience with the enemies 
that attack plants in the open field convinces me that we 
can successfully cope with very few of them. The rem- 



250 GAKDENJNG FOli PKOFIT. 

edy, if remedy it is, for rust, smut or other mildew para- 
sites, must, iu my opinion, be a preventive one ; that is, 
whenever practicable, use new land, or renew the old 
land, by a green crop, such as Rye, Timothy or Millet, 
in all sections subject to these diseases. The same plan 
had better be adopted in all places where the Onion 
maffffot or other insects attack tlie crop. The theory for 
this practice is, that it is believed that nearly all plants 
affected by insects or diseases, have such peculiar to them- 
selves, and that the germs or eggs lie in the soil ready to 
fasten on the same crop, if planted without intermission 
on the same ground, while if a season intervene, the 
larva or germ has nothing congenial to feed on, and is, 
in consequence, destroyed. In practice we usually find 
that cultivated land *' rested " for a season by a grass crop 
gives a cleaner and healthier crop of whatever vegeta- 
ble may follow it. 

THE PRODUCT. 

The product of the average Onion crop varies very 
much, ranging from 300 to 900 bushels per acre, the 
mean being about 600 bushels per acre. The price, like 
that of all perishable commodities, is variable, ranging 
from 50 cents per bushel, the price at which they usually 
wholesale in the New York market in fall, to |1 or $1.50 
per bushel for winter and spring prices. The estimate, 
then, of profit per acre may be given about as follows : 

Manure, per acre -- $ 73 

Plowing, weeding and harvestino: crop, per acre 100 

Six pounds seed, average $2 per pound . . - 12 

Rent or interest on land, per acre 9 

Marketing crop, per acre .-. - 7 

Cost. - -.-.$200 

Six hundi-ed bushels per acre, at 50 cents - 300 

Profit $100 



VEGETABLES— CARKOT. 



251 



This estimate is a moderate one, for if the crop is sold 
in spring, the chances are that the profit may be two or 
three times as great. 

The leading kinds of Onions are : 

Extra Early Flat Red.— (See figure 67.) A thin, 
rather light-colored Onion, a good keeper, and the ear- 
liest of all. 




Fi.2:. 07. 

EXTRA EARI.Y FLAT RED ONION. 



Fig 68. 

LARGE RED WETHERSFIELD ONION. 



These cuts, which are hardly half the average natural size, are given 
to show the shape and relative size of the different kinds. 

Larffc Red Wethersfield.— (See figure 68.) This is a 
favorite sort for general crop. A large yielder and good 
keeper. 

Yellow filobe Danvers.— (See figure 69.) A fine 
globe-shaped variety, one of the best yielders and a splen- 
did keeper. 

Southport Lar^e Yellow Globe.— (See figure 70.) 
This is perfectly globular in form. It is a good yielder 
and fine keeper. The Large Red Globe and the South- 



252 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



port Large White Globe possess the same characteristics 

as the variety just described, and vary only in the color. 

Soutliport White Globe. — One of the finest appeai-ing 




Fig. 69. — ^YELLOW GLOBE DAN- 
VEJIS ONION. 



Fig. 70. — SOUTHPORT LAKGE YELLOW 
GLOBE ONION. 



and most saleable sorts we have ; pure white, fine flavor 
and in every way desirable. It is not quite as good a 
keeper as some of the colored sorts, but it is a great 
favorite in the New York market. 

Southport Red Cllobe. — Similar to the above in shape ; 
color, a deep red ; a good keeper. 

Bermuda Onion. — A distinct sort, principally grown 
in tlie Island of Bermuda, although the seed cannot be 
grown there. There are two varieties of it, the Wiiite 
and the Pale Red, They are both very early, and are 
the varieties from which as high as 200,000 bags of 
Onions have been shipped from Bermuda in one sea- 
son. It is now being extensively inquired for by the 
truckers in the South, for the reason that it can be 
grown there as profitably as in Bermuda, which has had 



VEGETABLES- ONION". 



253 



for thirty years a complete monopoly of its culture. 
Great care should be taken in getting the seed genuine. 

Yellow Dutch. — A flat, yellow Onion. A good yielder, 
but not so desirable as other yellow sorts, on account of 
its color and shape. This and the Flat Yellow Dan vers 
are very similar. It is one of the heaviest croppers. 

White Portus^al or Silver Skin.— (See figure 71.) One 
of the leading sorts of white, flat Onion-s. A most ex- 
cellent keeper and good yielder. 




Fig. 71.— WHITE PORTUGAL ONION. 



Fig. 73.— GIANT ROCCA ONION. 



The following sorts are Italian varieties, and are well 
adapted for growing in the Southern States : 

Queen. — This is the earliest of the Italian sorts, small, 
flat, white and mild-flavored. 

Neapolitan Marzajola. — An early, white, flat Onion, 
of fine flavor. 

Giant Rocca* — (See figure 72.) A very large-growing 
globe-shaped variety, of a reddish-brown color ; flavor 
mild and sweet. 



^54 



GARDEXING FOR PROFIT. 



Lar^e White Italian Tripoli and Large Red Italian 

Tripoli,— (See figure 73.) These grow to a large size, 
and are later than either of the preceding. 




Fig. 73. — WHITE TRIPOLI ONIOV. 

Potato Onions are increased by the bulbs as it grows, 
splitting into six, eight or ten sections, which form the 
crop from which the **set," or root for next season's 
planting is obtained. These are planted in early spring, 
in rows one foot apart, three or fonr inches between the 
onions, and, like the Onions raised from sets, are gen- 
erally sold green, as in that state they are very tender, 
while in the dry state they are less desirable than the 
ordinary Onion. 

Top Onions, so-called, are propagated by the peculiar 
growth of this variety, which produces a cluster of 
small bulblets on tlie Onion stalk, a cluster of bulblets 
being formed instead of •flowers and seeds. In all respects 
its culture is the same as the Potato Onion, only that, as 
the bulbs are smaller, they can be planted closer. 



VEGETABLES — PARSLEY. 255 

PARSLEY. — (Petroselinum sativum.) 

A vegetable in more general use for garnishing than 
any other plant of our gardens ; it is also extensively 
used in soups, stews, etc. Its cultivation forms quite an 
important item in market gardens, particularly under 
glass. The manner of cultivating it thus is by sowing it 
between the rows of a growing crop of Lettuce in our 
cold frames in April. As it is slow to germinate, it only 
appears at the time the Lettuce is cut off in May. It is 
then cleared from weeds, hoed, and forms a growth fit 
to cut a month before that sown in the open ground. 
After the first cutting has been made in June, it is gen- 
erally so low in price as not to be worth marketing, so it 
is allowed to grow through the summer until the first 
week in September, when it is cut off close to the ground 
and throiu7i away, as it is rarely wanted at this season. 
It is again hoed, and as at this time it makes a short, 
healthy growth, suitable for keeping well in winter, it is 
stowed away in narrow, shallow trenches, exactly in the 
same manner in vv^hich we preserve Celery. 

This way of growing Parsley is, I believe, mainly con- 
fined to the vicinity of New York, but as the consump- 
tion of such an article is necessarily limited, this market 
has been oversapplied of late years. Formerly it has 
frequently paid twice the value of the sash that covered 
it in one season — $6 for a tliree by six sash. N'o doubt, 
in many places, this system of growing would be as profit- 
able as it used to be with us. When not grown under glass, 
it should be sown thickly in rows a foot apart in early 
spring in the open ground. Where greenhouses are used for 
forcing vegetables, Parsley can be nicely grown under the 
benches, at least as far under as there is partial light. 
This is best done by sowing the seed in boxes (three or 
four inches deep, eighteen inches wide, and two feet in 
length), in August, keeping them out-of-doors until cold 



256 



GAKDEi^II^G FOR PROFIT. 



weather in November, and then placing them under the 
benches of the greenhouse, but close to the walk, where 
they will get the most light, as this space cannot be util- 
ized for anything else, except for forcing Rliubarb and 
Asparagus or Parsley. (See Chapter 10, *' Greenhouses 
for Forcing Vegetable Crops." ) If Parsley is wanted in 
winter, it will be found to do nearly as well in this posi- 
tion as in the full light. 

The varieties are ; 

Henderson's Emerald.— (See figure 74.) The finest 
variety for market, decidedly lighter in color than the 




Fig. 74— EMERALD PARSLEY. 

Double and Moss Curled varieties. Is particularly 
adapted for garnishing, which is one of the main uses to 
which Parsley is put. It is now the mam sort grown by 
the market gardeners of New York. 

Double f wrled. — A dwarf growing variety, beautifully 
curled. The kind most largely grown by market gar- 
deners, until the introduction of the *' Emerald." 

Fern Leaved. — Distinct and beautiful. Very useful 
for table decoration, as it appears more like a crested Fern 
or Moss than like Parsley. 



I 



VEGETABLES — PARSNIP. 257 

Plain. — Of tins variety the leaves are plain. It is har- 
dier, however, than any of the curled sorts. 

Eaamburs^, or Turnip-Rooted. — A fleshy-rooted kind, 
the roots of which are used for flavoring soups. 



PAE,SNIP. — (Pastinaca sativa.) 

Of late years our market garden grounds have become 
too valuable to be used in growing this vegetable, the 
competition from well cultivated farm lands having 
brought it down below our paying level. Its cultivation 
is, in all respects, similar to the Carrot. The soil most 
suitable is a deep and sandy loam, moderately enriched. 
It is sown rather thickly in our gardens in early spring, 
in rows which are about twelve or fourteen inches apart ; 
on farm lands at eighteen or twenty inches, or wide 
enough for the rows to be worked between by the horse 
cultivator. Like all vegetables of this nature, it must be 
thinned out to a distance of about three or four inches 
between the plants, and our oft-repeated caution about 
w^eeds is here again enjoined. Parsnips are used almost 
exclusively in winter, but in our Northern States what is 
wanted for winter use must be dug up in fall, and packed 
away in the manner described under the head of " Pre- 
serving Vegetables in Winter." What are wanted for 
sale or use in spring, are best left in the bed where they 
grew, being entirely hardy in our coldest districts. 
About one-half is usually dug up and pitted in fall for 
sale in winter, and tlie other half left over for spring. 
But it sometimes happens that the winter supply is ex- 
hausted before the frost is out of the ground in spring 
sufficiently to permit of their being dug, and when pro- 
curable at such times, thev command almost fabulous 



258 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

prices. However, the average price is just about that of 
Carrots. 

The varieties are confined to the 

Hollow Crowned, — Mostly used by market gardeners. 

The Student, — Grows a little smaller, but has a more 
delicate flavor. 

Early Round, — A small round early sort. 



PEA. — {Pisum sativum.) 

The Pea is grown largely for market purposes in nearly 
every State in the Union, the time at which it is sown 
and matures being at widely different dates in Northern 
and Southern sections. In any district its highest de- 
gree of perfection is attained under a comparatively low 
temperature, hence it is one of the many vegetables de- 
scribed as best to be sown in '' early spring." True, it is 
sown for a succession crop throughout the summer 
months, even as late as August, but the first sowings 
everywhere always produce the best results, and it is 
from the first sowings, only that it is mostly offered in 
market. For market purposes it is more a crop of the 
farm than of the garden, and many hundred acres are 
cultivated in Southern Jersey and Long Island for the 
New York market. 

Warm, light soils, moderately enriched by stable ma- 
nure or bone dust, are best adapted to its culture, but if 
the ground has been manured the previous year, no ma- 
nure is needed. The whole crop is marketed by July, and 
is usually followed by a second crop of Late Cabbages or 
Turnips. The two crops together average a profit of 
from $100 to $200 per acre, according to earliness, con- 
dition of soil, etc. There is an important matter con- 



VEGETABLES — PEA. 250 

nected with growing Peas, that confines their culture to 
the vicinity of a town or village — it is the necessity of 
being able to get a large number of hands to pick at the 
time they are marketable. The variation in one day in 
the market is not unusually from $2 to 50 cents per 
bushel, which shows the great importance of an early 
crop. From the soft condition in which it is required to 
be gathered, it is a vegetable not very manageable to 
ship, and the packages, which should be latticed boxes 
or baskets, should never exceed the capacity of a bushel, 
when shipped from distances requiring from two to three 
days in the transit. But even this expense and care are 
well repaid by the high rates for which the first lots are 
sold. When grown as a market crop. Peas are rarely ever 
staked. They are sown in single rows about two inches 
deep, the rows two to three feet apart, according to the 
variety or the strength of the soil. When grown in small 
quantities for private use, they are generally sown in 
double rows, six or eight inches apart, and staked up by 
brush, for the taller growing kinds. 

The varieties are very numerous, but are in a ^eat 
state of confusion, the same kind being often sent out 
under a dozen names. The following varieties are well- 
defined, arranged as our experience gives the order of 
merit for this locality. 

PEAS — EXTRA EARLY. 

First of All.— (See figure 75.) One of the best types 
of the Extra Early Class, and unsurpassed as a market 
variety. The pods are of good size and well-filled. A 
very heavy bearer, and can be picked clean in two pick- 
ings, thus. making it the best sort for early planting in 
market gardens. It is also very hardy, and when 
planted in the fall or early spring, as is done in some 
parts of the South, usually stands the cold better than 



260 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 




/^ 



1 



VEGETABLES — PEA. 2G1 

any other sort. One bushel and a half of seed is re- 
quired per acre. 

Improved Daniel O'Rowrke and Extra Early.— These 
are excellent early varieties and great favorites in all 
parts of the country, but are not so regular in habit as 
the First of All. These, as well as the First of All, 
should be sown for a field crop in rows of from two to 
two "and a half feet apart, about one and a half bushel 
of seed being required for an acre. 

American Wonder, — (See 6gure 76.) One of the best 
acquisitions of this generation, but a variety perhaps better 
suited for private use than to the market gardener. It is 
early and very productive. The peas are wrinkled, and its 
distinctiveness consists in its extremely dwarf growth, 
which rarely exceeeds ten inches in height. Can be 
sown at eighteen inches apart ; two bushels of seed is re- 
quired for an acre. Like all wrinkled peas, tlie flavor is 
much superior to the round, or first early kinds. 

Alaska. — Very distinct and first early ; foliage very 
light green, vines slender. In our trials this year (188G), 
it was shown to be very productive. 

Premium Gem. — A green, wrinkled marrow, that 
comes into use just a few days later than the First of 
All or Improved Daniel O'Rourke. It grows from twelve 
to eighteen inches high, is very productive, and of excel- 
lent flavor. 

Kentish Invicta. — About five days later than the First 
of All and Daniel O'Rourke. Very productive, and pos- 
sesses fine flavor. Although it is one of the best for can- 
ning purposes, it is also largely grown for market. 

McLean's Advancer.— A second early variety, and now 
a great favorite with market growers in this neighbor- 
hood, among whom it is often known as the Early 



262 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 




VEGETABLES — PEA. 



263 



Champion. It is a green wrinkled Tariety, of delicious 
flavor. 



FOR THE GENERAL CROP. 



Champion of England. — This is still, by general con- 
sent, acknowledged to be the best of the late sorts. It is 
a tall-growing kind, attaining a height of four feet or 
more, and requires to be stak- 
ed. The pods and peas are of 
the largest size. 

Stratagem.— (See figure 77.) 
Is a newer variety, and by 
good judges considered one of 
the best Peas raised in recent 
years. It is a dwarf -grow- 
ing, wrinkled, blue marrow, 
and produces large, well-filled 
pods. 

Yorkshire Hero. — A splen- 
did wrinkled green marrow 
Pea, of a branching habit, and 
an abundant bearer. Seedsmen 
on both sides of the Atlantic 
find their sales for this variety 
constantly on the increase. 

Telephone— A newer tall, 
wrinkled marrow, with enorm- 
ous pods, which are not al- 
ways well-filled. In spite of 
this, it IS becoming a favorite 




Fig:. 77.— STRATAGEM PEA. 



market garden sort. 



Bliss' Abundance. — Eemarkably productive ; grows 
from twenty-four to thirty inches high. 

Bliss' Everbearing. — Also very productive ; grows 



264: GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

from eighteen to twenty -four inches liigh. Should be 
planted thinly, and is noted for a continuance of bearing. 
Pride of the Market, — Also a new sort, strong grow- 
ing, and a wonderful bearer. It grows only from eighteen 
to twenty-four inches high, producing large pods of Peas 
of exceptionally fine flavor. 

Black-Eyed and White Marrowfat. — These are both 
productive and hardy Yarieties, extensively grown as field 
Peas, to be used dry. They are also, from their great 
productiveness, grown largely in both private and mar- 
ket gardens, but they are not of so fine flavor as most 
other varieties. 



PEPPER. — {Capsicum annuum.) 

A tropical plant, that requires to be started in hot-beds 
or forcing-pits in the Northern States. The most com- 
mon method is to sow in hot-beds in March, and treat in 
all respects as directed for the cultivation of the Egg 
Plant. Light sandy soils are rather best suited for its 
grow^th, but it will grow tolerably well on any soil. 
When cultivated for market they are planted in rows two 
feet apart and fifteen inches between the j^lants. The 
crop is only moderately profitable, but it is not grown in 
large quantities, the main consumption of it being by the 
pickle factories. 

The ^ varieties are : 

Large Bell or Bull Nose. — An early variety, of mild 
flavor, and a favorite sort both for pickling and for use 
m the natural state. 

Sweet Mountain or Mammoth.— Similar to the Bull 

Nose, but larger and milder m flavor. Used to make 
stuffed pickles. 



VEGET A BL KS — POTATO. 265 

Ruby Kinj?. — Introduced two years ago, and a decided 
acquisition. The peppers grow from four and a half to 
six inches long by three and a lialf to four inches thick, 
are bright-red in color, and are mild and pleasant to the 
taste. 

Squash or Tomato-Slitaped. — Generally grown for 
pickling, hardly so eai-ly as the Bull Nose, but very pro- 
ductive, and the leading market variety. 

Golden Dawn. — Of the same shape and size as the Large 
Bell, but of more delicate flavor, while the color, as the 
name indicates, is a beautiful golden yello"w\ 

Cranberry. — One of the best for pickling. The fruit 
closely resembles tiie Cranberry in appearance. 

Lonj!^ Kcd Cayenne.— The variety of commerce. Pods 
small, cone-shaped, scarlet wdien ripe. It is quite a 
late variety, but the pods are as frequently used for pick- 
ling green as when ripe. 



POTATO. — (Solanum tuberosum.) 

The soil acknowledged to be best suited for the Potato 
is sandy loam ; in all heavy soils it is more subject to 
disease, and the flavor is also much inferior ; this, how- 
ever, is true of nearly all vegetables, heavy land inducing 
a watery insipidity of flavor. Like all robust-growing 
vegetables, Pototoes can be grown with varying success 
on soils of all kinds and in all conditions of fertility, but 
it is every way most profitable to use an abundance of 
manure when it is at all attainable. In breaking up good 
pasture land, the decaying sod answers sufficiently well 
for the first year in lieu of manure. Manure is applied 
either in the rows or hills, or broadcast over the surface, 
and plowed in ; the latter plan being in all cases pre- 



2G6 GARDENING FOlt PROFIT. 

ferable, when manure can be obtained in sufficient quan- 
tities. 

Potatoes, Y/hen grown for market at the North, are 
always a farm crop, the receipts per acre being much too 
low for the regular market garden. The large quantities 
that are planted usually prevent the use of manure in any 
other way except in the rows. When thus applied, fur- 
rows are plowed out in spring, after the ground has be- 
come dry and warm, usually three feet apart, and from 
four to five inches deep. The manure is spread in the 
furrow, the ^' sets " or *^ seed " planted thereon from eight 
to ten inches apart, and the furrow again covered in by 
the plow. As soon as the shoots are seen above ground 
the ridge should be at once hoed, and the cultivator run 
between the rows. As they advance in growth, the soil 
should be laid up on each side against the row, so as to 
form a slight ridge. 

The Potato disease, which has frequently been so dis- 
astrous in Ireland and parts of Scotland, has never been 
very devastating here. It is now well known to be a par- 
asitical fungus, Peronospora infestans, for which all reme- 
dies are useless when the crop is attacked. Like all dis- 
eases of this kind, the only lielp we have is prevention. 
As far as experiments have gone, they have sliown that 
Potatoes are always less liable to attacks of disease or rot 
if planted in new land, broken up from the sod, or at 
least that which has not been long in cultivation. 
Another enemy to this crop is the well-known Colorado 
Potato beetle. Fortunately, for this pest we have a cer- 
tain remedy in Paris green, mixed with twenty parts of 
flour, applied by dusting while the dew is on the leaves in 
the morning, or after a rain, or else in a liquid form of one 
ounce of Paris green to ten gallons of water. But which- 
ever way it is applied, it should be begun at the very first 
appearance of the beetles. If they once get a foothold, 
they increase so rapidly that the crop is often destroyed 



k 



VEGETABLES — POTATO. 267 

before the remedy can be of any avail. Paris greon being 
a deadly poison, it is absolutely necessary that fields on 
which Potatoes are growing should be protected from 
cattle. It is sometimes supposed that danger might 
arise from the use of the Paris green affecting the Potato 
tubers. There need be no fear of this, as the tubers do 
not in any Avay absorb it. 

The Long Island farmers, in the neighborhood of Xew 
York, have their crops of Early Potafoes sold off early 
enough in July to get the ground leveled and Late Cab- 
bages planted on the ridge on which the Potatoes have 
been growing, sufficient manure being left in the ground 
to carry through the crop of Cabbage. The two crops 
together give an average profit of 1150 an acre. Potatoes 
may be preserved during winter by the section pit system 
recommended for the general preservation of vegetables, 
or in a frost-proof cellar. 

The varieties of the Potato are very numerous, many 
of them having only a local reputation, so that it is some- 
what difficult to name the best for such an extensive ter- 
ritory as ours. But few of the varieties named below 
were. grown twenty years ago, but these are such as are 
now in very general demand, which indicates that they 
are the best for general cultivation. 

Early Rose. — A standard variety everywhere. It is 
still one of the best for earliness, quality and productive- 
ness yet introduced. 

Vanguard. — Extremely early, perhaps the earliest of 
all. Quality unsurpassed, but not quite so heavy a 
yielder as some others. 

l*«arl of Savoy. — A good yielder and a very excellent 
variety. The tubers are large and oblong ; flesh, white 
and mealy. 

Beauty of Hebron. — One of the best early sorts, being 
very productive and of fine quality. 



208 



CtArdexing for profit. 



Empire state— (See figure 78.) This is a new main 
crop variety, very productive, and in the estimation of 
the originator, Mr. Coy (to whom we are indebted for 




the Beauty of Hebron), a perfect Potato for general pur- 
poses. It is of excellent quality, and. a rough and vigor- 
ous grower. 

White Elephant. — Is late, large, of good quality, and 
enormously productive. 



A^EGETABLES — POTATO. 



269 



Clark's Xo, I,— (See figure 79.) This is said to be 
earlier than the Early Rose, and it is certainly very pro- 
ductive. The flavor is excellent, and it cooks dry and 




Fig. 'd9.— CLAUK'S no. 1 POTATO. 

mealy. A great favorite about Charleston, S. C, where 
it is grown for the Northern markets. 

St. Patrick, — One of- the handsomest varieties in cul- 
tivation. The tubers are smooth, with very few and 
shallow eyes. A good yielder, and of the best quality. 

Rural Blush. — Spoken of very highly, both as to yield 
and quality. 

Rochester Favorite. — A late sort, tubers white and 
oblong. ' It is an excellent market Potato, as it is an im- 
mense yielder. 

Triumph. — An early variety, that has given great sat- 
isfaction, particularly in the South. Very productive, 
and of good quality. 

Perfect PeachWow. — (See figure 80.) A most prom- 
ising new variety, resembling somewhat the old Peach- 



270 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



blow in general appearance, but ripening earlier and 
cooking through very quickly and evenly, a characteristic 




Fig. 80. — PERFECT PEACHBLOW POTATO. 

that was wanting in the older Peachblow. The flesh is 
pure white and the quality excellent. 

Considerable discussion has at various times occurred 
concerning the relative merits of planting cut or whole 
tubers, but is yet undecided, each method having its ad- 
vocates ; a fact which goes far to prove that it is of 
little consequence which way is followed. Tlie best 
rule, in our experience is, to plant the whole small 
tubers if fnlly matured, and cut the larger ones, but in 
either case leaving enough in bulk of the potato to give 
sufficient sustenance to the plant. 

The superintendent of one of the State Experimental 



VEGETABLES — POTATO. 271 

Stations, in a recent report .on experiments made with 
Potatoes, gave it as his opinion tliat by continnally 
selecting the best tubers, a variety conld be permanently 
improved. Believing this to be an error which should 
not go forth unchallenged from such an authority, I 
take the liberty, at the risk of a slight digression, to give 
a few facts which argue against the belief, published by 
me in an agricultural journal in 1885, under the head 
of "Do Phiuts Vary when Propagated by Cuttings?" 
On reading what is said about ^^seed" Potatoes, I notice 
the assertion is made that '^seed" taken from the most 
productive hills gave a larger yield of tubers than that 
taken from the least productive. I am inclined to 
believe that further experiments will shoAV that this in- 
creased productiveness will not continue to hold, because 
the reason for the greater or less yield was probably only 
an accident of circumstances — specially favorable condi- 
tions of the set made to form the hill, or by being highly 
fertilized, or some such cause that gave it this tempo- 
rary advantage — and that the chances are all against any 
permanent improvement being made by such selections. 

The Potato is said to have been introduced into 
Europe in 1584. If the original tubers had had the 
highest cultivation that the skill of man could give, it is 
exceedingly doubtful if 300 years of culture would have 
changed them in the slightest degree, if propagation had 
been solely from the tubers, and not from seed proper. 

I base this opinion on a very extended experience in 
the cultivation of plants from cuttings. Strawberry 
plants taken from any well known kind, such as Sharp- 
less, for example, from strong, vigorous growing plants, 
will certainly give better results than from weak plants 
of the same kind planted in the same soil. But if the 
progeny of the strong and the weak plants are again 
taken and replanted, the difference between the two would 
hardly be perceptible after they had been growing to- 



272 GAKDEKING FOR PROFIT. 

getner under the some conditions. Every now and then 
we hear of varieties of fruits or flowers, said to Be de- 
generating, that are propagated from cuttings, grafts or 
roots. I believe there is no such thing as permanent de- 
generation of any fruit, flower or vegetable that is raised 
from cuttings, grafts or roots. The Jargonelle Pear, the 
Ribston Pippin Apple, the Hamburg Grape or the Keen 
Seedling Strawberry of the English gardens, are found to 
look just as good and as bad, under different conditions 
of culture, as they were fifty or 100 years ago, and that 
any change, either for better or worse, is only an accident 
of circumstances, and temporary. For, be it remembered, 
that when a plant is raised ¥rom cnttiiigs, as in the 
grape-vine, grafts as in a Pear, or layers as in a Straw- 
berry, or pieces of the tuber as in a Potato, such parts- are 
not seed proper, but are merely parts of the same indi- 
vidual that was first called into existence. The Early 'Rose 
Potato, introduced nearly a -quarter of a century ago, is 
just as good to-day, under proper cultivation, as when 
first introduced, but it is certainly no better. It is 
often to be found under unfavorable circumstances, and 
then may be supposed to have degenerated ; but when it 
is shown, under other circumstances, to be as fine as when 
first introduced, how can the assertion of permanent 
degeneracy be admitted ? 

Permanent improvement, in my opinion, in varieties, 
can only be made by the selection of the fittest speci- 
mens that have been raised from seed proper. Here we 
have, as in the Early Rose Potato, the Sharpless Straw- 
berry and the Concord GrapCj varieties that have shot 
ahead of their fellows, having merits that the general 
public recognize, but all the art of man cannot further 
improve these, so that their *^ progeny", (to use a con- 
venient, though, perhaps, not a strictly correct term), 
when increased by ^'sets," ^Mayers" and ^'cuttings," 
will be permanently better or worse than when first 



VEGETABLES — POTATO. 273 

called into existence. It is a very common error, when 
a luxuriant crop of aujtiiing is seen growing under 
specially good culture, to imagine that cuttings, roots or. 
grafts from such plants must necessarily give similar 
results when the same conditions to grow such crops 
well are not present. Not long ago Boston was famed 
for its Eosebuds, and even experienced florists paid 
double price for stock from such plants, only to find that 
in their hands these plants would not produce Boston 
Rosebuds. Now the case is changed. Madison, New 
jersey^ as a whole, beats Boston in Eose culture, and the 
demand has changed from Boston to Madison, and, of 
course, with the same results, for, if the purchasers of 
Madison Eoses cannot give Madison culture, there will 
be no Madison Eosebuds. While we admit the advan- 
tage of a healthy stock, and even, perhaps, the value of 
a change of stock, what I claim is, that no culture will 
permanently change the variety from its normal condi- 
tion, and that the only advance that can be made is by 
selecting the best specimens, hybridizing these from 
their seed, again selecting, and so on forward. 

To be sure, we have in rare instances what are known 
to gardeners as ^' sports," or what Darwin has called 
'^bud variation," which may be improvements on the 
original variety or the reverse ; but culture, good or bad, 
has nothing to do with such anomalous cases. 

We often see it asserted as a matter for wonder, 
that the wild Celery of English marshes, or the wild 
Carrot of the hedge rows, have attained their present 
high condition by '^cultivation." If cultivation means 
that man has through generations '^ selected the 
fittest" of these again and again, taking always the 
'^ flower of the flock," so as to have attained the present 
perfection, then that is true ; but if by '' cultivation" is 
meant that '^ domestication" by high culture, manuring, 
etc., in a garden or a field has caused such results, then, 
in my humble opinion, it is not true. 



274 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

"PJJWFKIN. —(Cucurbita Pepo.) 

The Pumpkin is yet offered in large quantities for sale 
in our markets, but it ought to be banished from them 
as it has for some time been from our gardens. But the 
good people of our cities are suspicious of all innovations 
in what is offered them to eat, and it will be many years 
yet before the masses will understand that the modest, 
and sometimes uncouth looking, Squash is immeasurably 
superior, for all culinary purposes, to the mammoth, 
rotund Pumpkin. The Pumpkin is an excellent agricul- 
tural plant, of great value for cattle, but I only alhide 
to it here, to denounce its cultivation or use as a garden 
vegetable. 



BADISH. — (Raphanus sativiis.) 

Kadishes are consumed in immense quantities, and 
are one of the vegetables which we deem of no little im- 
portance as a market crop. To have them early, a light 
rich soil is the best ; heavy or clayey soils not only delay 
their maturing, but produce crops much inferior, both 
in appearance and flavor. They are grown by us by 
various methods ; the most common is, after sowing a 
crop of Beets in rows fourteen or fifteen inches apart, 
to sow Radishes between. The Radishes come up quick- 
ly, and are gathered and sold usually in six weeks from 
the time of sowing. The Beets at this time have only 
become large enough to be thinned, and will not be 
ready for at least a month later, so that the Radish 
crop is taken from same ground with little or no injury 
to the Beet crop. Another method is, to sow them be- 
tween the rows of Early (,'abbages or Cauliflowers, where 
they also are gathered of[ so soon as not to interfere with 
these crops. 



VEGETABLES — KADISH. 



275 



These are the methods practiced in our gardens here, 
where land is so valuable that we must make it always 
carry double, and often treble, crops in a season. 
Radishes are also grown in some places very extensively, 
on land devoted exclusively to that purpose 
in spring. Their culture thus is exceedingly 
simple. The ground being plowed and har- 
rowed well, the tseed is sown, and the harrow 
again run over, which places the seed at the 
proper depth. But though the field cultiva- 
tion of this vegetable is simple, the labor of 
gathering, tying up, and washing, preparatory 
for market, is great, which detracts largely 
from the profits. Perhaps the average receipts 
are $300 per acre, but the expense, before this 
is realized, is probably one-half that amount. 
It must be remembered thai, in many cases, it 
is an auxiliary crop, interfering but little with 





our main sprma: crops. It is one of the vege- 



?pring 




tables convenient to ship, and the early sam- 
ples from Norfolk, Virginia, average 17.50 per 
barrel, of 200 bunches ; or about $750 per acre, 
which should be a great inducement to south- 
ern cultivators, as there is but little danger of 
glutting the markets with fresh vegetables Fig. 81. 
shipped from a southern to a northern port, let^short- 
For forcing Radishes under glass, see Chapter top. 
10, on *' Greenhouses for Forcing Vegetable Crops." 

Wood's Early Frame. — This is a favorite with market 
gardeners, as it is at least ten days earlier than the Long 
Scarlet Radish, which it very much resembles, although 
it is not hardly as long. 

Long Scarlet Siiort-Top. — This variety is grown the 
country over in rather the largest quantity, as from its 
shape (when tied up in flat bunches), it is best suited to 



2T6 



GARDEXING FOR PROFIT. 



shipping. In rich, light soils its average length is about 
nine inches. (See figure 81.) 

Beckert's Chartier Radish. — This, sho^vn iu figure 
82, is decidedly distinct in appearance from an}* other 
Radish in cultivation. Its form is weU shown by our 

engraving, the color at the 
top being crimson, running 
into pink about the middle, 
and from thence downward 
it is a pure waxy white. It 
will attain a very large size 
before it becomes uiifit for 
the table. In fact, at nearly 
all stages of its growth the 
quality is excellent. It sold 
rapidly in market during 
the past season. 

Early Scarlet Turnip.— 

More delicate in flavor than 
the above, and for this rea- 
son more in demand for 
home consumption. By al- 
lovririg it sufficient time to 
grow, it attains a size of 
three inches in diameter, 
but it is always gathered at half this size. 

Early Round Dark Red. — The shape is the same as 
that of the Early Scarlet Turnip, and it differs only in 
the skin, being darker in color, and in making much 
smaller tops. On this account it is now very largely 
used for forcing in both frames and greenhouses. This 
and the preceding varieties are the sorts that are grown 
most largely for early marketing. (See figure 83.) 

Red Forcing Turnip.— The tops of this variety are 
the smallest of any of the early Radishes, wdiich, with 




Fig. 82.— beckekt's chartier 

RADISH. 



VEGETABLES — RADISH. 



4 i 4 



its extreme earlioess, make it especially valuable for 
strictly forcing j)urposes. 

White Tipped Scarlet Turnip.— (See figure 84.) An 





Fig. 83. — EAKLT ROUND DARK Fi;^. 84.— WHITE TIPPED TURNIP 

RED RADISH. RADISH. 

early variety of medium size, very handsome in appear- 
ance, and of excellent flavor. 

Frencll Breakfast.— (See figure 85.) A variety of 
quick growth, very mild and tender, and one of the best 




Fig. 85. — FRENCH BREAKFAST Fig, 

RADISH. 




.—YELLOW SUMMER TURNIP 
RADISH. 



for forcmg. Of oval form ; color, scarlet, tipped with 
white. 



278 GARDEKIXG FOR PROFIT. 

Olive-Shaped Scarlet. — Of oblong shape ; flesh, rose- 
color, and a good summer variety. 

Later yarieties, grown for fall and winter use : 

Yellow and Gray Summer Turnip. — Varieties well 
suited for summer use, as they stand the heat better 
than the early sorts. Both are mild in flavor. The 
yellow variety is shown in figure 86 ; the other is like 
it, save in color. 

Chinese Rose-colored Winter.— Excellent for winter 
use ; flesh, firm ; skin of a bright rose color. 

Long and Round Black Spanish. — Very hardy vari- 
eties. They are often preserved, keeping as well as any 
other root, in sand, until mid- winter, in a cellar or root- 
house. They are of large size, but rather harsh in flavor. 
Color, grayish-black. 



B.HUB ARB. —{Rheum Rhaponticiim). 

Ehubarb is now cultivated largely for market purposes 
in the vicinity of all large cities, and few private gar- 
dens are without it. Its culture is of the simplest kind. 
It is a plant that adapts itself to almost any soil, pro- 
vided it is Avell drained, artificially or otherwise. The 
preferable soil for Ehubarb, as for most vegetables, is a 
deep, sandy loam. Whatever the soil, it should be 
plowed from ten to twelve inches deep, tlie subsoil plow 
following in the wake of the other, stirring to the depth 
of ten or twelve inches more ; after plowing, harrow 
deeply and thoroughly. 

After the soil is prepared, lines are struck out by the 
plow four feet apart from each side of the field or plot, 
so that they will intersect at right angles. At these 
points the plants are set, first mixing with the soil three 
or four shovelfuls of well-rotted manure for each plant. 



VEGETABLES — RHUBARB. 279 

The time of planting in the Northera or "Western States 
may be either in the fall or spring ; at the South the 
fall is preferable. 

Rhubarb is usually propagated by division of the old 
roots ; each eye or bud, when broken apart with a root 
attached, forming a plant. But making a plantation of 
any great extent in this way is expensive to the begin- 
ner ; as the roots are rarely to be purcliased under $50 
per 1,000 eyes, and as about 3,000 plants are required 
for an acre, quite an outlay is necessary. 

This expense may be obviated by increasing the plants 
by seeds, instead of by division of the roots. In the 
Northern Statec, the best time to sow the seed is about 
the middle of April, in the open ground, in rows a foot 
apart, if the plants are to be again transplanted ; if to be 
left where sown, the rows must be three feet apart, and 
the plants thinned out in the rows to one foot apart. 
But as this latter plan requires the occupation of the 
land too long, the usual way is to sow closely and trans- 
plant. Care must be taken that the seed is well trodden 
in with the feet, as it is very light and rather slow to 
germinate. The soil best suited is a rich sandy loam, 
which should be thoroughly pulverized, and the surface 
made completely level before sowing. 

The plants may be transplanted from the seed-bed 
either in fall or spring. 

The first season after planting, no stalks should be 
pulled, but the next year a full return may be expected 
if proper attention has been given to cultivation. 

It is exceedingly difficult to name the annual profits 
from an acre of Rhubarb in full bearing, as everything 
depends upon earliness. Even here, m the vicinity of 
New York, growers vary in their statements from $100 
to $300 per acre. The difference of a week m earliness 
often makes a difference of $150 and $200. 

It may be safe to say, however, that it will average, in 



280 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

this vicinity, a profit of $250 per acr.e annually from the 
date of planting ; in many places where there is less 
competition, no doubt double or treble that amount may 
be realized. Rhubarb is a most simple and convenient 
plant for forcing, which may be done in the following 
manner : The roots are dug from the open ground in 
fall, put close together in a box or barrel, and soil sifted 
in to fill the interstices between the roots ; they are 
then placed in a situation where the temperature will 
range from fifty-five to about seventy-five degrees, with 
a moderate amount of moisture. By this treatment 
Rhubarb may be had from January to April. The roots 
may be placed wherever there is the necessary temper- 
ature. Light is not at all necessary ; in fact, the stalks 
of Rhubarb are much more crisp and tender when forced 
without exposure to direct light ; hence the roots may 
be placed in the furnace room of a cellar, under the 
staging of a greenhonse, or in an early forcing grapery. 
A florist in Boston told me a few" years ago, that he had 
sold enough Rhubarb, grown under his greenhouse stages, 
to pay his coal bill (over $100), besides having all he 
wanted for his family use. Rhubarb is forced quite ex- 
tensively by some of our market gardeners ; the method 
pursued by them is to lift the roots from the open 
ground in the fall, place them as closely together as pos- 
sible in such pits or frames as are used for hot-beds, but 
about two feet deep, sifting in soil so as to fill the spaces 
between the roots. On the approach of cold weather, 
the whole is covered over with a foot or so of dry leaves, 
and so remains until about February first, when the 
leaves are removed and sashes placed on the frames. 
Sometimes this is not done until March, the sashes being 
then used which have been covering Cabbage plants 
through the winter. But little ventilation is given to 
the frames at this cold season, as it is necessary to raise 
the temperature of the frame by the action of the sun's 



VEGETABLES — RHUBARB. 



281 



rays, so as to forward the crop. It greatly aids the for- 
warding if the sashes are covered up at night by straw 
mats or shutters. Ehubarb so forced matures about one 
month before it is marketable from the open ground, 
and averages about 110 for each three by six foot sash. 
It must be borne in mind, however, that forcing com- 




Fig. 87.— ST. martin's rhubarb. 

pletely destroys the roots, and for that reason it is only 
practiced by those who have a surplus that they would 
otherwise throw away. 

The principal varieties in cultivation are : 

St, illartin's. — (See figure 87. ) A new London variety, 
which is by far the best, being of rich spicy flavor, 
enormously productive, and of the largest size of stalk. 

The other two well-known kinds are '* Linnaeus" for 
early, and *' Victoria " for late crops. 



282 



GARDENIKG FOR PROFIT. 



SAQi'E.— {Salvia officinalis). 
See Thyme, and other Sweet Herbs. 



(m 



SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT. 

(Tragopogon porrifolius). 



This vegetable is coming rapidly into 
general use ; patches of an acre in extent 
are seen in some of the more extensive 
gardens here, that a few years ago grew 
only a few rows. It should be sown in 
early spring. Its culture is in all re- 
spects similar to that of Carrots, and al- 
though its consumption is as yet limited, 
for what is grown of it, the prices are 
high and very remunerative. It is more- 
over a safe root to cultivate, for, being 
entirely hardy, there is no risk whatever 
of its being injured by frost, should it 
so happen that the digging up is neglected 
in the hurry of fall work. It is gener- 
ally better, however, to dig it up and 
put it away as we do Parsnips or Car- 
rots, so that it can be had at any time 
during winter. It usually sells at higher 
rates in spring than in fall or winter ; 
but even with the advance in price is 
less profitable to the grower when sold 
in spring, as that being a busy season, 

the labor expended in digging it up and getting it 

ready, is then of much more value. 

As this vegetable will be unknown to many, I will 

state that it is used in various ways, but generally boiled 

or stewed, like Parsnips or Carrots. It is also used to 



Fiff. 88.— SALSIFY. 



VEGETABLES — SCORZOXERA — SEA KALE. 2S3 

make a soup, which has a decided flavor of the oyster. 
It is also eaten as a salad, sliced and dressed with vine- 
gar, salt and pepper. There are no varieties. 



SCORZONERA-BLACK SALSIFY. 

(Scorzoner^a Hispanica). 

Very similar to the above in general character, and of 
the same culture and use. It is not, however, so gener- 
ally esteemed as tlie Oyster Plant, and is not grown ex- 
cept for private use, and even for that purpose sparingly. 



SEA KALE. — {Cramhe maritima). 

This vegetable is much esteemed and grown largely for 
market purposes, both m England and France, and no 
private garden of any extent in either country is consid- 
ered complete without it. Here, however, even yet we 
seem to make but little headway in its cultivation. I 
have rarely seen it offered for sale in our markets, and 
Its culture is practiced in but few private gardens. 

There is an impression that it is difficult of culture in 
our climate ; this is not so by any means ; it is equally 
as easy to grow- it here as it is in England, only that, 
like all vegetables requiring artificial heat for its per- 
fection, its cultivation is attended with more expense 
tlian that of vegetables that we plant in the open ground, 
without other care than to keep them clear of weeds. 

It IS increased either by roots or by seed ; when roots 
can be obtained to start witli, they are quicker. The 
manner of operating Avith them is as follows : In fall, a 
few old plants of Sea Kale are dug up, and the roots 
cut in pieces of from two to three inches m length ; 
these are placed in boxes hi sand in a dry cellar until 



284 



GARDENING FOK PROFIT. 



February or March ; they are then strewn on tlie surface 
of a hot-bed, where, in a week or two they will emit 
roots and tops ; they are then potted or planted in 
shallow boxes two or three inches apart, hardened off for a 
few weeks, and as soon as the weather is settled, planted 

out in rows three feet 
apart, and two feet between 
the plants. If the ground 
is in the condition that it 
should be, Sea Kale, thus 
treated, will produce crowns 
strong enough to give a crop 
the next season after plant- 
ing;. When ori'own from 
seed, the seed should be 
sown in hills at the above 
distances apart, in the early 
spring, each hill being thin- 
ned out to three or four 
plants. In our colder lati- 
tudes, the crowns should be 
covered by four or six inches 
of manure or leaves as a 
protection from frost. 

Sea Kale is only fit for use 
in the blanched state, con- 
sequently on the approach 
of spring, the "crowns" 
should be covered with some 
light material, such as sand 
or leaf mold, to the depth of 
twelve or fifteen inches, so 
that the young shoot, being thus excluded from the 
light, will become blanched in growing through this 
covering ; or sometimes cans, made for the purpose, or 
inverted flower pots are used, the only object being to 




Fiff. 89. — SEA KALE. 



VEGETA.BLES — SHALLOTS — SORREL. 285 

exclude light. In England it is forced extensively by 
covering over the whole beds with leaves, manure or 
some heating material. The young shoots, when cooked, 
have a flavor something between Asparagus and Cauli- 
flower, 6ut is much preferred to either. The engraving 
(fig. 89) shows a young shoot when ready for the table. 
The fully developed leaves are large and robust. 



SHALLOTS.— {-Allium Ascalonicum.) 

This vegetable, which is used in the green state in early 
spring as a substitute for Onions, is planted by dividing 
the bulbs in September, and planting m rows one foot 
apart and six inches between the plants ; it makes a 
slight growth and forms its roots in the fall. On the 
opening of spring it develops rapidly, and the single 
bulb, planted in September, will have increased by May 
a dozen fold. From its hardy nature, coming in at least 
three weeks earlier than the Onion, large quantities are 
sold at rates corresponding w^ith those of Onions raised 
from sets. It, with us, has ever been a profitable vege- 
table to raise, and I have rarely found the profits on an 
acre to have been less than $200. It is generally cleared 
off by the last week in May, giving sufficient time to 
follow with second crops of Early Cabbage, Beets, Tur- 
nips, etc. 



SORREL. — [Rumex Acetosa). 

A well-known perennial plant, cultivated to some ex- 
tent with us. It IS used in soups and sauces, mostly by 
the Germans and French. In the French markets it is 
nearly as abundant as Spinach is in ours, and is liighly 
recommended as a wholesome vegetable. Its cultivation 
is very simple. Seeds, sown thinly m rows in early 



2S6 GA.RDEX1NG FOR PROFIT. 

spring, will give a heavy crop of leaves in June and 
July ; when the flower-stalk of the Sorrel starts to grow, 
it should be cut ont, which will add greatly to the devel- 
opment of the leaves. The crop may be left two sea- 
sons, but is more tender when annually raised from seed. 



SPINACn. — {Spinacia oleracea.) 

This is a very important crop in our market gardens, 
hundreds of acres of it being cultivated in the neighbor- 
hood of New York. It is one of the most manageable 
of all vegetables, requiring but little culture, and may be 
had fit for use the entire season. 

In our market gardens it is sown in early spring as an 
auxiliary crop, between the rows of Early Cabbage ; it 
comes to perfection usually in four or five weeks after 
sowing. At this season, it sells at a low price, usually 
about fifty cents per barrel ; but it requires but little 
labor, and generally pays about $50 per acre of profit. 
The main and important crop is sown in drills one foot 
apart, in this section from 1st to 15th September, or late 
enough in fall to get about half grown before cold 
weather sets in. It is sometimes covered up in exposed 
places with straw or salt hay during winter, wdiich pre- 
vents it being cut with the frost ; but in sheltered fields 
here there is no necessity for covering. 

Any soil that will grow a good Corn crop will grow 
Spinach, though, as is the case with all other vegetables 
in which the leaf or stem is the part used, the land can 
hardly be made too rich. Our practice is to grow it on 
our best soils, applying not less than fifty tons of well- 
rotted stable manure to the acre, or in lieu of stable 
manure, one ton of bone dust; or about 1,200 pounds 
of guano sown after plowing, and deeply harrowed in. 
The rows are made with the ordinary garden ^' marker/' 



VEGETABLES — SPINACH. 287 

at the distance of twelve or fifteen inches apart. Tlie 
seed is sown rather thickly; we prefer to do it always by 
hand, using from ten to fifteen pounds per acre ; when 
thickly sown the plants can be thinned out, so that a 
much larger yield will be given. We sow here from the 
5th to the 15th of September, and quite frecjuently sell, 
by thinning out, fifty or seventy-five barrels from an 
acre, which usually in October and November sells for 
$1 per barrel. This thinning out, which is done'by cut- 
ting out the plants where thickest with a knife, if care- 
fully performed, does not at all injure the main crop, 
which is to stand over winter until spring. I may hero 
caution the inexperienced of the necessity of treading 
down the soil on the seed, if the land is dry ; the crop is 
often ruined by the want of this precaution, in contiuued 
hot, dry spells that are frequent with us during Septem- 
ber. If the soil is left loose, the hot air shrivels up the 
seed so that it will never germinate. The best way is 
to tread in each row with the feet, and in addition to 
use a roller. Probably one-half of all Spinach seed sown 
in fall fails to germinate, and from no other cause than 
the failure to thus firm the seed. The same precaution 
is necessary in the sowing for Cabbage and Lettuce 
plants ; at this season these are often lost from the same 
cause. 

Fair crops give a yield of 200 barrels per acre (average 
price, $2 per barrel); at a high estimate the expenses will 
not exceed $250 per acre, so that it is safe to claim a net 
profit of $150, although extraordinary crops often do 
much more than this. The ground can be cleared early 
enough in May to follow the Spinach with a crop of 
Flat Dutch or Early Summer Cabbage. Spinach is 
hardy enough to grow in almost any part of the country ; 
but in districts where the thermometer falls below zero, 
it is necessary to cover it up about Christmas with hay, 
straw, or leaves, to tho depth of two or three inches ; it 



288 



GAKDENIKG FOR PllOFlT. 



is best done just as a snow storm is setting in, as the 
snow settles down the covering and keeps it from blowing 
off. Spinach is now largely grown at Norfolk, Virginia, 
and other sections of the South, which has, of late years, 
seriously interfered with the K^orthern grown crop. 




Fig. 90.— NORFOLK SA.VOT-LEAVED SPINACH. 

The quantity of seed per acre is from eight to twelve 
pounds, according to the distance between rows. 

Since the early editions of this book appeared, our 
list has been increased by two or three varieties of Spin- 
ach that are not only distinct in appearance, but which, 
in many sections of the country, are now grown to the 
exclusion of the older varieties. The ^' Savoy-Leaved" 
and the '*' Thick-Leaved " sorts, are both varieties that 
have secured this popularity. 



VEGETABLES — SPIN^ACH. 



289 



^'orfolk Savoy-Leaved,— (See figure 90.) This pro- 
duces nearly twice the weight of crop of the older varie- 




Fig. 91.— THICK-LEAVED SPINACH. 

ties, and has a further value in the fact that it is the 
hardiest of all varieties of Spinach. In appearance the 
leaf is wrinkled in the same manner as the Savoy Cab- 




Fig. 92.— LONG STANDING SPINACH. 

bage, hence the name. From the tendency of this sort 
to run to seed, it should never be sown in spring. 



290 GARDENING FOS PROFIT. 

Thick-Leaved.— (See figure 91). This is one of the 
best market sorts. It produces a large, thick, strong, 
green leaf, somewhat crumpled, and possesses the vahia- 
ble quality of standing a long time before running to seed. 
This variety is equally good for spring or fall. 

Long Standing.— (See figure 92). Except in the 
peculiarity that it stands a long time before running to 
seed, this variety, in all other respects, closely approaches 
the well-known Round Leaf, but it certainly has the char- 
acteristic of not running to seed. 

Round Leaf. — This is the variety so generally culti- 
vated for winter use, being very hardy, standing our 
sev^erest winters with little injury. 

Large Round Leaf Viroflay. — A heavy growing sort, 
resembling the Tliick-Leaved ; hardy. 

Prickly. — Although this variety is usually sown in 
the spring and summer, it also stands well in winter, but 
gives less bulk per acre than the others named. 



SPINACH.— SuBSTrruTES for. 

As Spinach will not endure the hot suns of summer, 
it running up to seed at once if sown in hot weather, 
several plants are used as substitutes, and though these 
are not grown for market, they are very convenient in 
the family garden. 

One of these is the Swiss Chard, mentioned under 
Beet, several forms of which are sold as Spinach Beet 
and Perpetual Spinach. Perhaps the best substitute for 
Spinach in the summer months is the 

New Zealand Spinach. — {Tetragonia expansa). — A 
plant of the same character and uses, but of a different 
genus, and used only in private gardens. It is a remark- 



VEGETABLES — SPIKACH — SQUASH. 291 

able plant, of low branching habit, growing wiih won- 
derful luxuriance during hot weather, single plants 
often measuring six feet in diameter. The leaves are 
used exactly as common Spinach ; it is best grown bv^ 
sowing the seeds after the soil is well warmed, and trans- 
planting to three feet apart in very rich, warm soil. 

Orach. — {Atriplex liortensis.) — Another plant of the 
same family, and its leaves are used in the same manner 
as Spinach. It succeeds best if sown where it is to grow 
— in rich, moist soil. 

"Sprouts,'' Kale or Borecole.— (^/m^iY-r? oUracra. 
Var. Sabellica.) A form of the Cabbage grown in all 
respects like Spinach. It is equally hardy and affords 
similar profits under like conditions. Like Spinach, it 
is now largely grown at N'orfolk, Virginia, and in other 
places farther South. It is also grown in the North- 
ern States, but not to the same extent with Spinach, 
probably in the proportion of one to ten only ; about 
half the quantity of seed is required for Sprouts as for 
Spinach, or about four to six pounds per acre. The 
kinds used for market are the Dwarf Cuided or German 
''Sprouts," the Early Dwarf Curled, and Dwarf Green 
Curled Scotch, the first-named being that used to trans- 
plant the others, being grown like Spinach. 



SQ,irASH. — {Cucurbita Pepo, and C. maxima.) 

A class of vegetables embracing more marked distinc- 
tions in sorts, fitted for more varied uses, and to be 
found, during the extremes of the season, m a better 
state of perfection, than, perhaps, any other product of 
our gardens. Being of tropical origin, their growth is 
all consummated daring summer ; yet the fruit of the 
** winter varieties'' may be kept, with a little care, until 
May. They are all of luxuriant and vigorous growth, 



292 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

and although they will grow readily on almost any soil, 
yet there is hardly anything cultivated that will so well 
repay generous treatment. Like all plants of this class, 
it is useless to sow until the weather has become settled 
and warm ; next to Lima Beans, Squashes should be the 
last vegetable planted. Light soils are best suited for 
their growth, and it is most economical of manure to 
prepare hills for the seeds in the ordinary manner, by 
mcorporating two or three shovelfuls of well-rotted ma- 
nure with the soil for each hill ; for the bush varieties, 
the hills should be from three to four feet each way, and 
for the running sorts from six to eight feet. Eight or 
ten seeds should be sown in each hill, thinning out after 
they have attained their rough leaves, leaving three or 
four of the strongest plants. 

They are extensively grown for market, but are not 
sufficiently profitable for our highly cultivated gardens, 
and are therefore grown rather as a farm-garderu crop. 
They vary in profit, in our vicinity, of from $100 to 
$25 per acre. The early varieties are grown quite exten- 
sively in the vicinity of Norfolk, Charleston and Savan- 
nah, and shipped North, from two to four weeks earlier 
than they can be had here, and, like all such commodi- 
ties, bring three or four times the price of those grown 
in this vicinity, in quantities that glut the market. 

The varieties are very numerous, and from the facility 
with which they will cross, it is very difficult to retain 
the different kinds pure. 

SUMMER VARIETIES. 

Yellow and White Bush Scalloped.— (See figure 93.) 
These varieties are the two kinds that -are considered the 
earliest, and are grown almost exclusively for market 
for first crop. From the hard texture of the rind, they 
are well fitted for shipping, and are grown exclusively at 



VEGETA BLES — SQUASH. 



29^ 



the South for that purpose. Plant three to four feet 
apart in hills. 

Bush Summer Crook-IVeck. — A much esteemed vari- 
ety in private gardens. Somewhat similar to the pre- 
ceding in growth, but rather more dwarf. The fruit is 
orange yellow, covered with warty excrescences. It is 
considered the best yielder of the summer varieties. 

Boston Marrow. — This variety may be termed second 
early, coming in about ten days after the bush and crook- 




^^^^f^^;:^< 



Fiff. 93. 

WBUTE BUSH SCALLOPED SQUASH. 



Fio;. 94. 

ESSEX HYBRID SQUASH. 



neck sorts. The skin, which is of an orange-yellow color, 
is very thin, the flesh being dry, fine-grained, and of 
unsurpassed flavor. 

FALL AND WINTER VAEIETIES. 

Essex Hybrid.— (See figure 94. j Very fine-grained, 
rich and sweet, and a splendid keeper. The flesh is very 
thick and solid. As a Squash for winter keeping it is 
unsurpassed. 

Hubbard.— (See figure 95.) A general favorite, and 
more largely grown as a late sort than any other. It is 
of large size, often weighing from nine to ten pounds. 



294: GARDEKIKG FOR PROFIT. 

Color, bluish-green, occasionally marked with brownish- 
orange or yellow. Flesh, fine-grained, dry, and of excel- 




Fi^'. 95. — HUBBAHD SQUASH. 

lent flavor. It can be had in use from September to 
May. Plant in hills eight feet apart. 

Ularblehead,— An excellent variety, introduced by 
Mr. Gregory. The flesh is rather lighter in color than 
that of the Hubbard, but it resembles that variety in 
shape, although it has a harder shell. It is productive, 
of rich and excellent flavor, and a fine keeper. Plant 
eight feet apart. 

l>Iammoth Chili. — Grows to an immense size, often 
weighing 200 pounds. Excellent for all purposes. Plant 
nine feet apart. 

Winter Crook-Neck. — A variety largely grown in some 
of the Eastern States, where it rs often kept the entire 
winter. Skin, reddish-pink when matured ; flesh, close- 
grained and svVeet. Plant in hills nine feet apart. 

Vegetable I^Iarrow, — A favorite English sort. The 
fruit is very variable in size, ranging from nine to eighteen 



VEGETABLES — SWEET POTATO. 295 

inches in length by from four to six inches in diameter. 
The skin is greenish-yellow ; flesh, white, soft and of 
rich flavor. It is entirely distinct from all of the pre- 
ceding. Plant eight feet apart. 



SWEET VOT ATO. —{Ipomcpa Batatas.) 

The Sweet Potato requires a rich, light, warm soil It 
is more generally grown in the Southern States than the 
common Potato, as there the soil and climate are more 
eongenial to it. We have often difficulty, in this dis- 
trict, in saving the tubers sound enough until spring, to 
«tart for sprouting to produce young plants. The great 
essentials to their good preservation nre a dry and rather 
warm atmosphere ; the cellar, suitable to preserve the 
common Potato, being usually much too cold and damp 
for this. Where there is no place of the necessary high 
temperature, it is best to get them in spring direct from 
some Southern market, where they can always be had in 
good condition ; or they can be kept by packing in barrels 
in dry sand and keeping them in a warm room. In this 
discrict we begin to start the potatoes in hot-beds or 
forcing-pits about the middle of April, laying them 
thickly together on a two-inch layer of sand and leaf 
mold composted together, or sand alone will suit if leaf 
mold cannot be had. As soon as the buds or eyes show 
signs of starting, cover the roots completely over to the 
thickness of an inch with the same material. Treat as 
for other tender plants in the hot-bed or forcing-pit, and 
the sprouts or slips will be ready for planting out by the 
first of June. 

Market gardeners often make the sale of Sweet Potato 
plants a very profitable operation, immense quantities of 



296 GARDEXIJ^^G FOR PROFIT. 

them being sold to private growers at the planting sea- 
son. As the sprouts from the potatoes come up very 
thickly, repeated thinnings are made, which is not only 
profitable to the grower, but of great advantage to the 
remaining plants, by giving them the n-jcessary room to 
grow. One grower in this vicinity informed me that last 
season ho sold upwards of $1,000 w^ortli 'of plants from 
150 sashes, which were sold at an average of $1.25 per 
1,000. The profit from the cultivation of the plant in 
the field is something less than that from Tomatoes, but 
more than from the common Potato. 

In Southern New Jersey and further south, these beds 
are not covered with glass, but with a light covering of 
straw or coarse hay, to retain the warmth, but the 
beds must not be thus made before the first week in 
May, in New Jersey. This is removed when the plants 
appear. In sections of the country where Sweet Potatoes 
are grown even to a small extent, there are generally men 
who make a business of growing the plants, which are 
often to be bought as low as II per 1,000, and it will 
be found better for the grower to purchase than to raise 
them himself, if he has not the proper convenience of 
sashes and hot-beds. The plants are set out in rows 
three or four feet distant, and about two feet apart in 
the rows, using a good shovelful of well-rotted manure, 
mixed in, for each hill. They are alw^ays planted in 
light, sandy soil, heavy soils being en'.irely uncongenial 
to the nature of the root. As they advance in growth 
the rows are hilled up with the plow in the same man- 
ner as ordinary Potatoes, care being taken, however, 
to prevent the vines, as they hang over, from rooting in 
the sand. This is done by running along the vines, occa- 
sionally under them, with the hand to break the young 
roots and keep them from striking into the soil. If 
this were not done it would divert the growth from the 
main root, and the potatoes would be small and nearly. 



VEGETABLES — SWEET POTATO. 297 

worthless. In the Northern States, Sweet Potatoes must 
always be used previous to December, unless they can bo 
kept in a warm place. 

In the Southern States they are kept in pits in the 
open ground in much the same way as we keep ordinary 
Potatoes at the North ; but the temperature of the soil 
is of course much higher in Florida and otlier extreme 
Southern States than at the North. Most of the Sweet 
Potatoes that find their way to our Northern markets in 
the winter and spring months, are grown in Georgia, 
South Carolina and other Southern States. They are 
preserved in the South by storing them in houses specially 
built for that purpose. The Potatoes are packed in ;>o\cs 
not more than eighteen inches deep, which are placed in 
tiers one above the other, leaving spaces between for ven- 
tilation. But in extremely cold weather it is necessary 
that the apartment should be heated in some way so that 
the temperature at no time "is allowed to fall below fifty 
degrees. There is no necessity for packing anything 
around them ; if the heat in the apartment is sufticient, 
they will keep by the air circulating around them among 
the shelves or boxes in which they are placed. Probably 
the best temperature at which Sweet Potatoes can be kept 
in winter is sixty degrees. The following are the sorts 
mostly grown : 

Nanseniond. — This is the earliest sort ; tubers large, 
from three to four inches in diameter at the thickest 
part, tapering to each end, and from five to eight inches 
long ; flesh dry, sweet and well flavored. 

Red Skinned. — This variety is claimed to be hardier 
tlian the preceding, but it is doubtful if this is the case. 
It is a long, slender variety, mostly grown in private 
gardens, and is thought to be of a richer flavor than the 
yellow or white sorts. 

Yellow Skinned. — This sort is mainly cultivated in the 



298 GARDEN^IXG roil PIIOFIT. 

Southern States, wliere it attains nearly the weight of 
the JSansemond ; it requires a longer season than that 
variet}', and is not so suitable for the North. It is of 
excellent flavor and more free from stringiness than any 
other sort. 



TOMATO. — {Lycopersicum esculentum.) 

This vegetable is one of the most important of all gar- 
den products ; hundred of acres are now planted with it 
in the vicinity of all large cities, and the facility with 
which it is managed, places it readily under the control of 
the least experienced. It is now grown here almost en- 
tirely by those who grow Peas, Potatoes, Melons, and 
other crops of the "^^farm gardens," as our market gardens 
proper are too highly enriched and much too limited in 
extent to render the cultivation of the Tomato profitable. 
To produce early crops, the seed must be sown in hot-beds 
or forcing-pits, about ten weeks before the plants may 
be safely put in the open ground. Thus, in this dis- 
trict, we sow in the hot-bed about the first week in 
March ; in April the plants are fit to be set out, at a 
distance of four or five inches apart, in another hot-bed. 
They are grown there (proper attention being given to 
the hot-beds, as directed under that head) until the middle 
of May, when it is safe to jDlace them in the open ground. 
They are planted, for early crops, on light sandy soil, at a 
distance of three feet apart, in hills, in which a good 
shovelful of rotted manure has been mixed. On heavy 
soils, which are not suited for an early crop, they should 
be planted four feet apart. Some attach great importance 
to topping the leading shoo-t of the Tomato, so that it 
will branch, arguing that by this means we get an earlier 



VEGETABLES — TOM A.TO. 299 

and heavier crop; all our experience shows that little 
benefit is derived from the practice. Like all vegetables 
grown on so large a scale, and in such varying soil and 
climate, the Tomato sells in our markets at prices varying 
widely, from 16 down to 25 cents per bushel, the average 
price for those raised in the distiict, being about 75 cents 
per bushel. The cpiantity raised per acre is about 400 
busbels. This may seem at first glance to be quite a profit- 
able crop for a farmer ; but every acre necessitates the 
use of at least 100 sashes, for, on the second transplanting, 
only about fifty phmts can be grown to a sash, and about 
5,000 plants are required for an acre. On one occasion, 
having a very suitable soil, I grew about four acres of 
Tomatoes for three years, which realized me from 11,500 to 
$2,000 annually in receipts ; but I discovered that the 
operation was a losing one, as, to raise 20,000 plants for 
my four acres, I had to make use of 400 sashes, in which, 
.n rather less time and with far less labor than it took to 
grow the Tomato plants, Lettuce could have been grown 
that would have sold for at least 12 per sas.h. Thus I 
lost annually, in preparing for the Tomato plants, half 
the receipts of the crop even before they were planted out. 
But there are many parts of the country where Lettuce, 
thus forwarded, could not be sold, while Tomatoes could, 
which would materially change the aspect of the opera- 
tion. In the southern sections of the countr}'', convenient 
to shipping, Tomatoes are largely grown for the northern 
markets, and sold there at prices highly remunerative to 
the grower. In many instances, in the Southern States, 
the cultivation of Tomatoes for market is carelessly done, 
the seed being sown in the open ground and the plants 
transplanted, as we do Cabbages. No doubt, by starting 
in January or February with the hot-beds, or even cold 
frames, and planting one in March or April, they could 
be had at least two weeks earlier than they are now sent 
to us. In some localities thousands of acres of Tomatoes 



300 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

are now grown by farmers, under contract for canning 
purposes, often as low as 30 cents per bushel, and, on 
suitable land, even this low price will pay better than 
most farm crops, as there is usually no necessity for 
having the crop early for canning. 

There are always some one or more varieties, said to 
be earlier than others, sent out every spring, but it must 
be confessed that the varieties that we cultivated twenty 
years ago are not a day behind in earliness those issued 
as "vastly superior" in 1886. To test them thoroughly, 
I planted twenty-five plants each of the fonr most popular 
sorts, under circumstances exactly similar in all respects; 
there was no difference whatever in earliness, and but 
little perceptible difterence in productiveness. 

In my opinion, the extreme point of earliness in Toma- 
toes has been reached years ago, and now all further im- 
provements must be in point of size, smoothness and so- 
lidity ; and that any one laying claim to having good 
varieties a specified number of days or weeks earlier than 
those we alrjeady have, does so without having a knowledge 
of the subject, or with the desire to impose on the public. 
The Tomato is a plant requiring at all times a certain high 
temperature to ripen its fruit ; and though it may ripen 
in Georgia in May, in Virginia in June, in Delaware in 
July, or in New Jersey in August, it requires the same 
aggregate amount of heat to do the work. The same is 
true of most fruits and vegetables ; we reach a certain 
point of earliness with a given variety in a given locality, 
when the temperature tells us we must stop. If improve- 
ment in earliness were progressive, we might have reason 
to expect that the Radish or Lettuce, which matures with 
us in the open ground here in May, would yet mature 
in April. 

I believe that our ordinary methods of saving Tomato 
and all other seeds, in fact, do much to prevent us from 
making any advance in procuring choice varieties ; if 



VEGETABLES — TOMATO. 301 

we would only take the trouble to always select the first 
matured fruits, and the best specimens only, for seed, 
and so continue, there is no question whatever but it 
would amply repay the trouble. But the grower for 
market grudges to give up his first basket of fruit, that 
may realize him $5 or $6, for a few ounces of seed, knovv-- 
ing that he can get plenty when his crop in not worth the 
gathering for market. But, depend upon it, he makes a 
mistake, for the seed from his first fruits would, perhaps, 
pay him a hundred times better, if used for sowing the next 
year, than any price he might get for it in the market. 

In private gardens, where space is often limited, a 
greater quantity of fruit will be obtained by elevating 
the branches of the Tomato from the ground with brush, 
such as is used for sticking Peas, or by tying to laths 
nailed against a board fence ; or, what is neater yet, the 
hoop training system as practised in France. But for 
m.arket purposes, on a large scale, it would require too 
much labor. 

The following, at this date, are tiie leading kinds : 

Mikado. — (See figure 96.) This is the second season 
that we have grown this variety, and I predict that it 
will be certain to become a standard sort. It is one of 
the earliest of the large Tomatoes ; in color purplish-red ; 
fruit produced in immense clusters, single fruits often 
weighing one pound and a half each. The Mikado is 
entirely distinct in foliage from any other Tomato, which 
allows it to always be distinguished. 

Acme. — Very early and handsome, fruit of medium 
/size, perfectly smooth and regular, very solid, and a good 
keeper. Color distinct, being crimson with a pinkish 
tinge. In some markets the color would be a detriment ; 
in others, again, it would be considered no disadvantage. 

Paraxon. — The description of the Acme will answer 
for this, except that in the Paragon the color is of a 



d02 



qarde:sing for profit. 




VEGETABLES — TOMATO. 



303 



bright, giossy crimson, and entirely free from the pinkish 
tinge that characterizes the Acme. 

Perfection. — (See figure 97.) Color blood red. It is 
as early as the Canada Victor (one of the first to ripen), 




Fig. 97.— PERFECTION TOMATO. 

almost round in shape, perfectly smooth, and very solid. 
Of the best quality and enormously productive. 

Canada Victor. — One of the earliest, of medium size, 
bright red, and very symmetrical in shape. 

Trophy, — No Tomato ever introduced created the 
furore that this did when it was first brought out. It is 
unsurpassed in size, flavor, and productiveness, but is 
now superseded by others in earliness and smoothness. 

General Grant. — The fruit of this is large and of good 
quality, and ripens evenly and thoroughly. 

Hathaway's Kxcelsior. — An early variety, of medium 
size, smooth, very solid, and of excellent quality. 

Red and Yellow Pliini Tomato. — Beautiful varieties, 
never exceedino^ two inches in length by one inch in 
diameter. Miinly used for pickling and preserving. 



304 GARUEi^Ii^G FOR PROFIT. 



TUHNIP . — (Brassica campestris.) 

The cultivation of the Turnip as an early crop for 
market purposes, sold bunched in the green state, is in 
all respects the same as detailed for Early Beets. The 
profits of the crop are also similar. Tlie Turnip, how- 
ever, for early crops, is rather more particular about soil 
than the Beet, and can best be produced early on light 
sandy or gravelly soils, highly enriched with manure. 

For late crops, sowings may be made, for Ruta Bagas, 
from May to September, in the different sections of the 
country ; here, the finest roots are obtained by sowing 
about first week in June. For wliite and yellow varie- 
ties, as they como quicker to maturity, sowing should be 
delayed four or five weeks later. Here, Ave sow from the 
middle of July to the middle of August. 

Turnips, whether for early or late crops, should always 
be sown in drills, about fourteen or eighteen inches apart. 
In large quantities, they are sown by the machine, when 
one pound of seed will be enough for an acre. In the 
Northern States it is necessary to take them up on the 
approach of severe weather, when they are best pre- 
served during winter by being pitted, as recommended 
for other roots. The late crops of Turnips are by no 
means so profitable as the early, rarely realizing to the 
grower more than $75 per acre ; but like most other late 
crops of the garden or farm, they can be grown with less 
manure, are less perishable if not immediately sold, and 
are consequently grown by the farmer on his less valuable 
but more extensive grounds. Again let me reiterate the 
necessity for firming the soil around the seeds of the 
Turnip crop, sown in the dry, hot weather in August. 
Thousands of acres fail to germinate from no other 
cause, while in England in 1885 fully one-half of the 
crop seemed to me was lost, solely from lack of this pre- 



VEGETABLES— TURNIP. 



305 



caution. There had been no rain, even to lay the dust, 
for a period of eight weeks in summer — an experience 
almost unprecedented there, and no provision had been 
made for firming the soil over the seed, and as a con- 
sequence it was shriveled and dried, and failed to grow. 
We here htjve nearly always such ^^i". dry weather when 




Fi^. 98.— 

WHITE EGG TUliJ!<ir. 



FiR. 99.— 

EXTEA EAKLY MILAN TURNIP. 



Turnips are sown for late crops, and hence the necessity 
of always firming the soil. 

The following are the leading varieties grown : 

White Eff^. — (See figure 98.) This in shape, is nearly 
oval or egg, its flesh is firm and fine-grained, skin thin 
and smooth. The flavor is mild and sweet, rendering it 



30G 



gardeni:ng fok fkofit. 



Tery desirable for table use, while its attractive appear- 
ance makes it a most saleable variety for market j^nirposes. 

Extra Early Milan. — (See figure 99. ) This is an early 
strap-leaved variety, coming into use a week or ten days 
before any of the ordinary early sorts. The bulbs are 
white, with a purple top, round and solid ; fiesh pure 
white, sweet and crisp. 

Ked-Top 8trap-Leaf.— A rapid grower and of mild 
tiavor. The most popular variety for early use, grown 
either for the table or for stock. 

Purple-Top Hliite (ilobe.— (See figure 100.) A very 
heavy cropping, early variety, of globe shape. It has a 




Fig. 100.— PURPLE-TOP WHITE GLOBE TUKNIP. 

very handsome looking bulb, and is rapidly taking the 
lead over other varieties for market garden purposes. 

Amber Globe. — In great favor m the South. Attains 
a large size, flesh solid and sweet, hardy, and a good 
keeper. 

Golden Ball. — This has no superior for table use, being 
of excellent flavor, globe-shaped, and of a beautiful yel- 
low color. It IS a very rapid grower. 

Snowball. — A round, pure white variety, of superior 
flavor ; excellent for market. 



VEGETABLES — TURK! P. 



307 



Snow-White. — Olive-shaped, very hardy, quality the 
best. 

Seven-Top. — This is the variety so largely grown in 
the Southern States for Turnip salad or greens. 



TURNIP.— RuTA Baga or Swedish. 
Improved American (Piirple-Top). — (See figure 101.) 



This is the leading variety ; very hardy and productive ; 




Fig. 101. — IMPROVED AMERICAN PUKPL,E-TO]f RUTA BAGA. 



flesh yellow, solid, sweet, and fine flavored ; equally good 
for stock or table use ; the principal variety raised by 
market gardeners on Long Island, and the best of 
all yellow Turnips. In our trial grounds we find 
American-grown seed, of this variety, to yield better- 
shaped and cleaner Turnips than does imported seed. 



308 GARDENING JFOK PROFIT. 

Shamrock. — One of the finest purple- top varieties in 
cultivation ; forms a handsome bulb, with small top and 
very few leaves 5 an excellent keeper and good for stock 
or table use. 

Larj^e White French. — A superior variety for table or 
stock ; flesh firm, white and solid ; attains a large size, 
and has a very rich and sweet flavor ; a very popular 
variety. 

THYME, SAGE, SUMMER SAVORY, AND MAR- 
JORAM. 

I believe even yet the cultivation of Sweet Herbs, for 
market purposes, is but little known in this country, ex- 
cept in the vegetable gardens in the vicinity of New 
York ; there it is practised to an extent of perhaps 100 
to 150 acres, a fair average profit of which would be 
about $250 per acre. Like the crops of Celery, Spinach, 
or Horseradish, they are grown only as second crops, 
that is, they are planted in July, after an early crop of 
Peas, Cabbages, Beets, or Onions has been sold off. 
The kinds are Thyme, Sage, Summer Savory, and 
Sweet Marjoram, the former two being grown in the ratio 
of ten acres to one of the others. 

The seed is sown in rows in April in rich mellow soil, 
carefully kept clean from weeds until the plants are fit to 
set out, which may be done any time that the ground is 
ready from middle of June until end of July. As the 
plants are usually small and delicate, it is necessary that 
the ground be well fined down by harrowing with the disc 
harrow, or raking before planting. The distance apart, 
for all the kinds, is about the same, namely, twelve 
inches between the rows, and eight- or ten inches be- 
tween the plants ; the lines are marked out by the 
*' marker." This is the '• marker" used for many 
other purposes ; in lining out the rows for Early Cab- 



SWEET HERBS — THYME — SAGE, ETC. 309 

bages, for instance, every alternate line is planted, 
thus leaving them two feet apart, their proper dis- 
tance. (See Implements.) In eight or ten days after 
the herb crop has been planted, the ground is 'Mioed " 
lightly over by a steel rake, which disturbs the sur- 
face sufficiently to destroy the crop of weeds that are 
just beginning to germinate ; it is done in one-third of 
the time that it conld be done by a hoe, and answers the 
purpose quite as well, as deep hoeing at this early stage 
of planting is perfectly useless. In ten or twelve days 
more, the same operation is rej^eated with the steel rake^ 
which usually effectually destroys all weeds, the seeds of 
which are near enough to the surface to germinate. We 
use the steel rake in lieu of a hoe on all our crops, im- 
mediately after planting, for, as before said, deep hoeing 
on plants of any kind ivhe^i newly planted, is quite un- 
necessary ,and by the steady application of the rake 
weeds are easily kept down, and it is great economy of 
labor never to alloiv them to start. By the middle of 
September the herb crop usually covers the ground com- 
pletely, looking like a field of clover. Allow this mass 
to grow for another month as it is, and you would not 
increase the weight of leaves ; the plants would grow 
taller, keeping the green and marketable leaves on the 
top, but only yellow and withered ones and plenty of 
woody stems below. But by cutting out every alternate 
row (each plant making about two bunches), the remain- 
ing rows are allowed liglit and air, and in three or four 
weeks will have spread so as again to cover up the entire 
surface, from wliicli half the crop has already heeii 
gathered. AVe treat Sage in all respects the same as 
Thyme ; and I have seen both these herbs on rich soil not 
only meet when left two feet apart, but when every other 
row at two feet apart was cut out, almost meet again at 
four feet apart. 

By this method of cutting out every other row, fully a 



310 GAUDEK^ING FOR PROFIT. 

double crop is taken, and of a quality superior to what it 
would be were it allowed to grow without being thus 
thinned out. About thirty years ago I was lucky enough 
to discover the importance of this plan of doubling our 
crops of herbs, and as I had not, in those days, begun to 
tell '' what I know about gardening," I kept my own 
counsel for some years before my neighbors discovered 
the plan. Herbs are regarded as a safe crop for the mar- 
ket gardener ; they are less perishable than anything else 
grown, for, if there be any interruption to their sale in a 
green state, they can, if necessary, be dried and boxed up 
and sold in the dry state, months after. The price now 
is from $6 to $10 per 1,000 bunches, and we always pre- 
fer to dry them rather than sell lower than $6 per 1,000, 
experience telling us that the market will usually so reg- 
ulate itself as to handsomely pay for holding back the 
sale. The cost of getting the crop raised and marketed 
will average about 1150 per acre, o.ne-half of the expense 
being in tying it in bunches. But with many of our in- 
dustrious German gardeners it does not cost half that, as 
the tying up is usually done by their wives and children. 

There are but few varieties among Herbs, but of Thyme 
there are several, and it is very important to plant only 
what is known as the '' spreading variety ; " an upright 
sort, sometimes sold, is worthless as a market crop. The 
Sage, known as the Broad-leaved, is the best. 

1 am often asked, by correspondents at a distance, in 
relation to the best way of selling herbs in Kew York 
City. I will here say, that there is no certain sale that I 
know of, unless they are in a green state. The season 
for selling is October, November and December ; and if 
shipped in open crates, so arranged by divisions of slats 
that not more than eight or nine inches of a layer would 
be together, they could be shipped at that cool season to 
distances requiring fifty or sixty hours in the transit. 
The average receipts per acre is now about $400. 



WHEX TO SOW IX THE SOUTH. 311 



CHAPTER XVI. 

WHEN TO SOW AND PLANT IN THE SOUTHERN 

STATES. 

We have hundreds of letters each season making in- 
quiries on this subject. From the great variation in lat- 
itude, soils, shelter, etc., it is impossible-to give accurate 
information on the subject, for the date that would 
answer for Charleston, South Carolina, or Jackson- 
ville, Fla., would not do for Norfolk, Va., or Knoxville, 
Tenn., but at the risk, in some few cases, of repeating in- 
structions already given, I will endeavor to approximate 
as nearly as possible to the dates at which vegetables 
should be sown and j^lanted in the Southern States. 
The instructions for culture vary but little from what is 
practised at the North, so the reader is referred to each 
article under its proper head for cultural instructions. 

Asparagus. — \Vhether raised from seed or from plants, 
had better be started in the fall months, varying, accord- 
ing to latitude, from the 1st of October to the 1st of 
December, earlier, as at Norfolk, Virginia, to the latest 
date in South Carolina, Florida, Louisiana, and Texas. 
The plant is hardy, and consequently will have made 
roots enough to sustain itself through the cool season, if 
sown at these dates, and be ready for vigorous growth as 
soon as vegetation starts in spring. 

Beans; Bush or Pole. — Are of tropical origin, and 
consequently belong to what are classed as *' tender" 
vegetables, and v/hen wanted /or early crop, as nearly all 
Southern vegetables are, should not be sown until all 
danger from chilly weather is past — not before the night 
temperature will average fifty-five degrees. Perhaps one 
of the best rules is to delay sowing or planting in the 
open ground until such date as corn can be safely planted. 



312 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Beets. — Areof intermediate hardiness ; not sufficiently 
hardy to be sown and wintered over like Asparagus or 
Spinach, yet hardy enough to be sown three or fonr 
weeks earlier than Beans or Corn. For example, if the 
Corn-planting season is March in extreme Southern 
points, Beets may be sown at the same place in February. 

Cabbage. — Is perhaps the most important of all South- 
ern crops raised for the Northern market, and much — ■ 
very much — of the success of the crop depends upon luhen 
sown and the quality of seed used. Taking the latitude 
of Charleston, South Carolina, or Savannah, Georgia, as a 
basis, the usual time of sowing there, in the open 
ground, is from October 5th to loth, but even at the 
later date, the favorite variety, ^' Early Summer," may 
run to seed if the season is mild ; so we strongly advise to 
sow, at leasL a portion of the crop, ten days later — say 
from October 20th to 30th — and so shape the seed-beds 
that they can be covered up by "sashes'' made of 
muslin, or the protecting cloth already alluded to, on 
cold nights — exposing them, of course, to the light, on 
warm, bright days. 

Cauliflower. — Same as for Cabbage. 

Celery. — Being a winter vegetable, is never shipped 
from South to North, as it can be grown much cheaper 
North ; but there is a growing local demand for Celery 
at many Southern points. The seed, to produce plants, 
cannot safely be sown South in the spring for Celery- 
growing, as in most instances, from the longer season, it 
would run to seed, even if it could be carried through the 
hot weather. My advice would be to sow at different 
periods, say from the middle of June to the middle of 
August, using the protecting cloth- *^ sashes" already 
described, during the hot sunshine, say from 9 a. m. to 
4 p. M., watering them, Avhen dry, in the afternoon after 
taking off the sashes. As several thousand Celery plants^ 



WHEN TO SOW AT THE SOUTH. 313 

can be grown under a three by six feet sash, it will repay 
the labor in such places as this, where protection against 
the sun is a necessity. 

Collards. — Require to be sown about the same date as 
Spinach, which see. 

Corn. — Sweet Corn is a valuable crop in some sections 
South, to be sold in our Northern markets. It is one of 
the most tender plants. Thousands .of acres are sacri- 
ficed every season by impatient cultivators, who, deluded 
by a few warm days in spring, plant too early. No 
date can be given Avith safety, only, as a rule, one 
will be safer to be a little behind his neighbor than 
before him. If the usual date is the 1st of the month, 
yon will be certain to catch up if you wait until the 4th 
or 5th, as it is a crop easily checked even by a slight 
chill. It may be forwarded six or eight days by sow- 
ing in pieces of sod under sashes, as recommended for 
Cucumbers. 

Cucumbers. — Another ''tender" plant, requiring the 
same conditions for vigorous growth as Sweet Corn. It 
may be sown on pieces of inverted sod, cut in sections of 
three or four inches ; these, if placed in frames and cov- 
ered with the protecting cloth, or better still for this 
purpose, glass sashes, may be started two weeks sooner 
than they can be sown outside. In about a month after 
sowing (if not begun before the temperature w^ould aver- 
age fifty-five degrees at night), they will have grown two 
or three inches and have matted the pieces of sod full of 
roots ; the temperature now should be ten degrees higher, 
and they may then be set in the open field and will give 
a crop at least a week earlier, which will w^ell repay the 
extra labor. 

Egff Plant. — The same rules may be applied to this, 
remembering, however, that this is an extra "tender" 
plant, and at least five degrees higher will be necessary. 



314 GARDEXING FOR PROFIT. 

Greens, German or Sprouts. — Same as Spinach, which 
see. 

Lettuce. — The same rules as for Cabhage and Cauli- 
flower will apply nearly as well to Lettuces. 

Melon, Musk and Water. — Same as for Cucumbers. 

Okra, or Gumbo. — Another ** tender" vegetable ; date 
of sowing the same as for Beans. 

Onion. — One of the hardiest of vegetables, and, whether 
grown from seeds or from sets for early crop, should be 
sown in the fall, about the dates advised for Asparagus, 
though if wanted for a later spring crop, or for drying, 
may be sown in spring, at the date advised for Beets. 

Peas. — Again taking the latitude of South Carolina or 
Southern Georgia as a basis, the Marrowfat varieties of 
Peas may be begun to be sown about the end of Novem- 
ber, following with the early kinds for succession crops 
every week or ten days to January 1st. 

Potato. — (Solanum tuberosum.) We give the botanical 
name to distinguish it from the Sweet Potato; though 
indigenous to high Southern latitudes, it is impatient of 
heat, and should be planted as early in the various South- 
ern States as the ground is in condition to work ; in 
parts of Florida as early as January 1st, while February 
1st will be proper at Charleston or Savannah, and nearly 
a month later in Southern Virginia. 

Potato, Sweet. — (Ipomcea hatatas.) This is mainly a 
crop of the Southern States. The roots are usually 
started in Florida or South Carolina about February 1st, 
in cold frames covered with glass, or in warm borders in 
the open air. The '^sets" or ** draws" will usually be 
large enough to be set out the first week in March in 
Florida or first of April m South Carolina, and corres- 
pondingly later as we move northward. 

Radish. — Same dates as for beets. 



WHEN TO SOW AT THE SOUTH. 315 

Rhubarb. — Same date as for Asparagus. 

Turnips. — For fall sowing, the Sjv^eet or Strap-leaved 
kinds of Turnip should be sown from September to Octo- 
ber, while the Kuta Bagas, requiring a longer time to 
mature, should be sown a month earlier. For ^'spring 
sowing," January to February for the extreme Southern 
States. 

Spinach. — A hardy vegetable, and a valuable crop in 
many sections of the South. May be sown from Septem- 
ber to October at Norfolk, Virginia, and from November 
to December at Charleston or Savannah ; but as it is slow 
to germinate in dry weather, see what is said in relation 
to it at page 101, under the head of the ^^Use of the 
Feet in Sowing and Planting." At the extreme South 
Spinach is not much grow^n, as it does better in such 
latitudes as Virginia or Delaware. 

Squash. — Same as for Cucumber. 

Tomato. — A most important vegetable grown at the 
South for the Northern markets. It is usually set out 
by first raising the plants under glass, often in hot-beds, 
when great earliness is desired. The reader is referred 
to " Construction of Hot-beds," which will be necessary 
in most sections for the first sowing for the seedling 
plants. An ordinary three by six feet sash will raise 
from 1,500 to 2,000 seedling plants. These if sown, say, 
February 1st, will be large enough to transplant at three 
or four inches apart, again under the protection of sashes 
or of ^' sashes " of the protecting cloth, until fit to set 
out in the open field. As it is also a most tender plaint, 
easily hurt by chill, the same rules apply here as for 
Cucumbers. 



316 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

CHAPTER XVII. 
PACKING OF VEGETABLES FOR SHIPPING. 

This is a matter for which it is not very easy to give 
directions, as the distance, season, and articles to be 
packed ivill greatly determine the manner in which it is 
to be done ; but a few general directions may assist the 
inexperienced. 

The mode of packing during spring and summer is 
almost entirely the reverse of that practised during 
autumn or winier, for the reason that, when the temper- 
ature is high, provision must be made in the package for 
the admission of air to prevent the articles from heating ; 
while in cold weather, when there is but little danger 
from heating, but more to be apprehended from frost, 
close packages must be used accordingly. 

As early vegetables are always shipped from a warm 
climate to a colder one, at a season which, of course, 
must be warm to mature them, open work baskets or 
slatted boxes must be used. If barrels are used, care 
must be taken that openings be made plentifully in the 
sides, So that air may be admitted. For distances requir- 
ing a delay of more than forty-eight hours in the transit, 
for most articles, barrels are too large ; boxes or basket?, 
one-third the capacity of a flour barrel (one bashel), 
being safer. The articles shipped in this manner from 
Southern ports to Northern markets, are : Asparagus, 
Beans, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Melons, Peas, Radishes, 
Tomatoes, and other summer crops. Bulky articles, 
such as Cabbages, Beets, Sweet Corn, Water Melons, 
Turnips, are often shipped loose on the decks of steamers, 
sloops, etc. ; but even then care must he taken that the 
heaps are not too large, else they may be injured by heat- 
ing. The judgment of the shipper must be exercised in 
respect to the article t^ be shipped. Articles that lie 



PRESERVATION UF VEGETABLES IN WINTER. 317 

close will require to be shipped in smaller packages tlian 
those that lie so loosely that the air can pass among 
them ; for example, Melons may be safely packed in a 
barrel, while if Tomatoes were so packed, tliey would be 
utterly destroyed. 

The winter or fall shipping of vegetables is the reverse 
of the summer, for then we send from the North to the 
South, our colder and damper atmosphere being more 
congenial to the growth of late crops. Close packages 
are now used, but still not- too large ; barrels being best 
suited to such articles as Beets, Carrots, Celery, Onions, 
Parsnips, Potatoes, or Turnips, while Cabbages and 
Cauliflowers may be shipped in crates or in bulk. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 
PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN V7INTER. 

Our manner of preserving vegetable roots in Avinter is, 
I think, peculiar to this district, and is very simple and 
effective. 

After taking up such crops as Beets, Carrots, Horse- 
radish, Parsnips, Tnrnips, Potatoes, etc., in fall, they are 
put in temporary oblong heaps, on the surface of the 
ground on which they have been growing, and covered 
up with five or six inches of soil, which will keep off such 
slight frosts as are likely to occur, until time can be spared 
to store them in permanent winter quarters ; this is done 
in this section, usually, during the first part of December, 
in the following manner : A piece of ground as drv as 
possible is chosen ; if not naturally dry, provision must 
he made to carry off the water, loioer than the hottom of 
the pit. The pit is dug out from three to four feet deep, 
about six feet wide, and of the length required ; the roots 



318 GARDENIXG FOR PKOFIT. 

are then packed in, in sections of about two feet wide 
across the pit, and only to the height of the ground level. 
Between the sections, a space of half a foot is left, which 
is filled up with the soil level to the top ; this leaves the 
pit filled up in sections of two feet long, with roots, and 
half a foot of soil, and so on, until the whole is finished. 
The advantage of this plan is, that it is merely a series of 
small pits, holding from three to five barrels of roots, 
which can be taken out for market without exposing the 
next section, as it is closed off by the six inches of soil 
between. Also, we find that roots of all kinds keep more 
safely when in small bulk than when large numbers are 
thrown into one pit together. In covering, the top is 
rounded so as to throw oS the water, with a layer of from 
eighteen inches to two feet of soil. This way of preserving 
roots, with perhaps the exception of Potatoes, is much 
preferable to keeping them in a cellar or root-house, as 
they not only keep fresher, retaining more of their natural 
flavor and color, but far fewer of them are lost by decay 
than w^hen exposed to the air and varying temperature of 
a cellar. Unmatured heads of Cauliflower, or Broccoli, 
however, are best matured in a light cellar or cold frame, 
by being planted in close together ; in this way, good 
heads may be had to January. For the keeping of Cab- 
bages, Celery, and Onions, see instructions in the chapter 
describing their culture. Mr. William Crozier, of North- 
port, L. I., who is co-author with me in the work ''How 
the Farm Pays," has adopted this method of keeping 
potatoes with great success. It is the method almost 
exclusively in use in England and Scotland. 



INSECTS. 319 

CHAPTER XIX. 

INSECTS. 

We have but little trouble with insects in our highly 
cultivated grounds ; what with continued moving of the 
soi} by plowing and harrowing every foot, from three to 
four times each season, incessant hoeing; and the digging 
up of the crops, we give these pests but little chance for 
a foot-hold. AVe are, however, occasionally troubled with 
Aphides, the ^^ ure^n-fly," in our forcing-houses of Let- 
tuce. Another kind of aphis, closely allied to the green, 
assumes a bluish color w^hen it attacks the Cabbage crop, 
either in frames or outside. A complete remedy for 
either pest, in its early stages, is tobacco stems steeped 
in water to give it about the color of strong tea, and ap- 
plied with a syringe or watering-pot, or tobacco dust, or, 
in fact, tobacco in any form that it can be applied. 
*' Jumping Jack," or the Turnip-fly, occasions some 
trouble with late sowings of Cabbages, Turnips, and 
Eadishes, but we find an excellent preventive in dust- 
insf lime over the beds as soon as the seeds be^in to 
germinate. It is of the utmost importance to w^q preve7i' 
fives in the case of insects, for if once they get a lodg- 
ment, it is almost useless to attempt their destruction. 
The striped Cucumber-bug, which, Avith us, attacks late 
sowings only, we have found to yield readily to a few ap- 
plications of bone dust, which serves the double purpose 
of disturbing the insect and encouraging the growth of 
the crop. But our most formidable enemy of the insect 
tribe is that which attacks the roots of the Cabbage fam- 
ily, causing the deocructive disease known as the "'^club- 
root." There is a general misconception of the cause of 
this disease ; happily our peculiar location here gives 
me the means, I believe, of thoroughly disproving some 



320 GARDENIXG FOR PROFIT. 

of these absurd dogmas, that club-root is caused by " hog 
manure," '^ heavy soil," ''light soil," etc. I do not doubt 
tluit it has appeared thousands of times under just such 
conditions ; yet, within three miles from the City Hall 
of New York, I can show to-day, on the classic shores of 
Communipaw, scores of acres that have been just so 
manured, both light soils and heavy soils, that have 
grown cabbages for twenty consecutive years, while 
the first appearance of club-root is yet to be seen. On 
the other hand, I can show, on soils not more than a mile 
distant from those on the Communipaw shore, where the 
ground is cultivated in the very best possible manner, 
and where every variety of manure has been tried, and 
yet it is imposssble to get a crop of Cauliilowan* or Cab- 
bage dear from club-voot for two years in succession. 
Now, the reason of the immunity from the pest on the 
one variety of soil and not on the other, does not, to 
us, admit of tlie slightest particle of doubt. On the 
shore side, and for nearly a mile inland, there are regular 
deposits of oyster shell, mixed with the land almost as we 
find pebbles in a gravelly soil ; our theory is, that the in- 
sect which occasions the club-root cannot exist in con- 
tact with the lime, which, of course, is present in hirge 
amount in a soil containing such abundance of oyster 
shell. Reasoning from this, we have endeavored to bring 
up soils deficient in shell, by heavy dressings of lime ; 
this answered, however, only temporarily, and we found 
it too expensive to continue it. The increasing demand 
for manures in the vicinity of New York has rendered 
them of late years scarce and high in ]3rice, so that we 
were necessitated to begin the use of guano and other 
concentrated manures, and as this w^as rather new with 
us in our market gardens, we have had the pleasure of 
some very interesting experiments. In my grounds at 
Jersey City, where we have never been able to get two 
crops of Cabbages successively without having them in- 



INSECTS. 321 

Jured by club-root, my foreman suggested to me to ex- 
periment with a bed of about half an acre, to be planted 
with early Wakefield Cabbage. One-half of this he pro- 
posed to manure at the rate of seventy- tiye tons per acre 
with stable manure, the other half with flour of bone, at 
the rate of 2,000 pounds per acre ; this was accordingly 
done in the usual way, by sowing the bone dust on the 
ground after plowing, and then thoroughly harrowing 
in. During the month of May, we could see no percept- 
ible difference in the beds ; but just as soon as our first 
hot days in June came, down wilted the portion that had 
been dressed with stable manure, showing a well-defined 
line the whole length of the bed, and, on pulling up the 
plants, we found that our enemy was at work, while 
in that portion that had been dressed by the bone dust, 
hardly a wilted plant could be seen, but, on the contrary, 
the crop had most unusual vigor. This experiment has 
been to me one of the most satisfactory I ever tried ; it 
still further proves that this destructive insect cannot 
exist, to ail injurious extent, in a soil impregnated with 
lime, and also proves that we have a most effective 
remedy in this valuable and portable manure. The ex- 
periment was, however, to me rather a costly one ; our 
past experience told us that there was no reason to expect 
that the portion on which the stable manure was used 
would not be attacked by club-root, as it had borne a 
crop of Cabbage the previous year, and nearly twenty 
years' working of that soil had shown that this crop 
could never be grown two years successively ; but experi- 
ments to be satisfactory must be done on a scale of some 
magnitude, and although I lost some 1200 by the differ- 
ence in the crop, I believe it to have been a profitable 
investment. 

I have incidentally stated that the Cabbage crop, 
treated in the usual manner, can only be grown every 
alternate year, the reason of which we infer to be that 



322 GARDEJ^ING FOR PROFIT. 

the insect is harmless to the plant when in the perfect 
state the first season, bnt tluit it is attracted by the plant, 
deposits its eggs in tlie soil, and that in the lawM con- 
dition, m which it appears tlie second year, it attacks the 
root. Whether this crude theory be correct or not, I 
will not presume to say, but if not, how can we ac- 
count for the fact of our being able to grow this plant 
free from its ravages every alternate year, while if we 
attempt to do so successively without the use of liuie or 
bone dust, it is certain to be attacked ? 

All authorities on gardening to which I have had access 
seem to be unaware of the fact that club-root is never 
seen in soils impregnated with shells. This v.ariety of 
soil is not common. I have never seen it anywhere ex- 
cept here, and, as I have said, this peculiarity of location, 
most fortunately, gives a certain clue to the facts, and 
directly points out the remedy, which, I think, we have 
found to be in the copious use of bone dust as manure. 

Another enemy of the Cabbage plant, and one that is 
sometimes even more destructive than the club-root, is 
the Cabbage Caterpillar. This insect is comparatively a 
new^-comer, having been imported from Europe by way of 
Canada. It is produced by the small white butterfly 
that is seen hovering over the Cabbage patches in spring. 
It attacks the leaves of the plant, and is such a voracious 
feeder that it will quickly destroy a whole plantation. I 
am frequently applied to for a remedy for this pest and 
others attacking Cabbages ; the best I know of are given 
in 'the chapters on "Cabbage Culture." Nothing is 
more difficult and unsatisfactory than the attempt to 
defeat the ravages of insects in the open field, and I have 
yet to know of any being continuously successful, unless 
perhaps, the application of Pans Green for the destruction 
of the Potato Bug. In the long-cultivated gardens of New 
Jersey and Long Island we do not suffer much from the 
ravages of either of the above pests. The soil is so re- 



I 



INSECTS. dTd 

peatedly turned over and disturbed that I presume the 
maggot is not left long enough at rest to develop itself 
in sufficient numbers to produce any great injury ; and 
the luxurious growth resulting from the continued and 
heavy manuring, seems to be less inviting to the butterfly 
to deposit her eggs than the feebler growtli of less fertile 
soils. Or, it may be that the increase of English sparrows 
is helping us in both these cases, by destroying the fly 
that produces the maggot, or the small white butterfly 
that produces the caterpillar, or it may be that they feed 
on the caterpilhir itself, as I know they do upon the 
rose-slug. At all events, the farmer will gain by en- 
couraging and caring for the sparrows. A few years ago 
the street trees of New York, Brooklyn and Jersey City 
were festooned by myriads of the " measuring worm ; " 
now, since the advent of the sparrows, they are scarcely 
ever seen. The sparrow^s will live in any section of the 
country if properly housed and fed in winter, and if such 
care were general we should hear fewer complaints of 
insect ravages. True, the birds might exact wages for 
their services, in requiring a little grain, but of the two 
evils, better submit to that done by the birds than by 
the insects. 

I will relate an experiment to destroy the Cabbage 
Caterpillar, which occurred during this month in my im- 
mediate neighborhood. One of my neighbors found that 
the pest was attacking his Cabbages ; he came to me and 
asked what I thought of his using slaked lime to dust 
over them. I told him I had but little faith m it. But 
he was resolved to try it, and put it on at the rate of four 
or five barrels to the acre, carefully dusting it on each 
plant, This was about the 1st of June. On the 17th he 
came to me in triumph, sayino- that the remedy had been 
effectual, and that there was hardly a caterpillar to be 
seen. Unfortunately for the experiment, but fortu- 
nately for truth, another neighbor, whose Cabbage patch 



324 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

had been attacked at the same time, but had received no 
lime, was also entirely clear of the caterpillar ! The cure 
was traceable to another cause. ^Ye had had a deluging 
rain that swept off the caterpillars, and started the Cab- 
bages into luxuriant growth at the same time. Had the 
insect come m the legions it does in some ^^laces, had 
there been no ram, and had the dry, hot weather con- 
tinued, the lime dust would probably have failed. 

Last summer, I had with great care nursed along in 
my greenhouses, for many weeks, a collection of rare 
varieties of German Stock Gillyflowers, a i3lant belonging 
to the same natural order (Cruciferae), as the Cabbage. 
Upwards of two thousand plants were set out in June, 
on rather poor soil ; by the middle of July they had 
made splendid plants, one foot across, and just as tbey 
were bursting into bloom we observed the little white 
butterfly moving amongst them, and knew what might 
be expected to follow. Lime dust, solutions of carbolic 
soaj), whale oil soap, and sundry other things were used, 
all to no effect, and by middle of August, the plants were 
literally eaten up by the caterpillar. There is nothing 
more unpleasant than to tell any one suffering under a 
calamity that there is no effective remedy ; but it is in- 
finitely better to do so than to delude them with a false 
one. I have been a worker of the soil since my boyhood, 
and every year's experience convinces me of the almost 
helplessness of remedies against insects or other blight- 
ing plagues that attack vegetation in the open field. It 
is true that the amateur gardener may save his dozen or 
two of Cabbages or Koses by daily picking off or destroy- 
ing the insects ; but when it comes to broad acres, 1 
much doubt if ever any remedy will be found to be prac- 
ticable, unless in rare instances, such as Pans Green, aa 
as an antidote against the Potato Bug. We have one con- 
solation, m knowing that these pests are only periodical, 
and never continue so as to permanently destroy. 



CULTURE OF SMALL FllUITS. 3Z5 

CHAPTER XX. 
CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. 

Complaiut has been made that in the former editions 
of this work, no allusion was made to the culture of small 
fruits, which, in many sections, is as much a matter of 
interest to the market gardener as is the culture of vege- 
tables, as, in many places the two have-to be combined 
so as to supply the local demand. The most important 
of all the small fruits is 

THE STKAWBERRT. 

The same general rules for soils, drainage, manuring, 
etc., are generally applicable for Strawberry or other small 
fruit culture as for vegetable crops. Oar method of 
obtaining a full crop of Strawberries by ''^pot layering,'' 
which we here give in detail, we have practised for the 
past fifteen years with unvarying success, and if we Avere 
growing Strawberries for market, no matter on how large 
a scale, we would follow no other method. To obtain a 
crop in June from the plants that were planted out the 
previous August, or in ten months from date of planting, 
the plants must be such as are layered in pots, and the 
sooner they are planted out after the 15th of July the 
better, although, if not then convenient, they will pro- 
duce a crop the next season, even if planted as late as the 
middle of September ; but the sooner they are planted, 
the larger will be the crop. They may be set from pot 
layers either in beds of four rows each, twelve inches 
apart, and twelve inches between the plants, leaving two 
feet between the beds for a pathway ; or be set out in rows 
two feet apart, the plants in the rows twelve inches apart ; 
and if the plants are property set out (care beino^ taken 
to firm the soil around the plants, which is best done by 
pressing the soil against each plant with the foot), not 



326 GARDEXIXG FOR PKOFIT. 

one ID a tliousand of Strawberry plants that have 
been struck in pots, will fail to grow. For the first three 
or four weeks after planting, nothing need be done except 
to hoe the beds, so that all weeds are kept down. Be 
careful to do this once in every ten days ; for if the weeds 
once get a start it will treble the labor of keeping the 
ground clean. In about a month after planting they 
will begin to throw out runners, all of which must be 
pinched or cut off as they appear, so that by the end of 
the growing season (1st of November), each plant will 
have formed a complete bush one foot or more in diame- 
ter, having the necessary matured ''crowns" for next 
June's fruit. By the middle of December, the entire beds 
of Strawberry plints should be covered up with salt 
meadow hay (straw, leaves or anything similar will do as 
well), to the depth of two or three inches, entirely cover- 
ing up the plants and soil, so that nothing is seen but 
the hay. By April, the plants so protected will show in- 
dications of growth, when the hay over each plant is 
pushed a little aside, to assist it in getting through the 
covering, so that by May, the fully developed plant shows 
on the clean surface of the hay. This '^ mulching," as 
it is called, is indispensable to the best culture, as it pro- 
tects the plants from cold in winter, keeps the fruit clean, 
keeps the roots cool by shading them from the hot sun 
in June, and, at the same time, saves nearly all further 
labor after being once put on, as few weeds can push 
through it. By this method, we prefer to plant new beds 
every year, though, if desired, tlie beds onae planted may 
be fruited for two or three years, as by the old plans ; 
but the fruit the first season, will always be the largest in 
size, if not greatest in quantity. Another advantage of 
this system is that, where the space is limited, there is 
quite time enough to get a crop of Potatoes, Peas, Beans, 
Lettuce, Radishes, or, in fact, any summer crop, off of the 
ground first, hefore planting the Strawberries, thus taking 



CULTURE OF SMALL FKUITS. 327 

two crops from the ground in one year, if desired, and 
there is also plenty of time to crop the ground with Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower, Celery, or other fall crop, after the 
crop of Strawben-ies has been gathered. The plan of 
getting the pot layers of Strawberries is very sim})le. 
Just as soon as the fruit is gathered, if the beds are well 
forked up betw^een the rows, tlie runners, or young plants, 
will begin to grow, and in two weeks will be fit to layer 
in "pots. The pots (which are about twx) inches in diam- 
eter), are filled with the soil m which the Strawberries 
are growing, and " phinged^" or sunk to the level of the 
surface ; the Strawben^ layer is then laid on the pot at its 
joint, being held in place with a small stone. The stone not 
only serves to keep the plant in its place, so that its roots 
will strike into the i3ot, but it also serves to mark where 
each pot is ; for, being sunk to the level of the surface, 
rains wash the soil around the pots, so that they could 
not well be seen unless marked h^ the stone. In ten or 
twelve days after the Strawberry layers have been put 
down, the pots will be filled with roots. They are then 
cut from the parent plant, placed closely together, and 
shaded and watered for a fev/ days before being planted 
out. 

Strawberries for field culture are usually planted from 
the ordinary layers, either in August and September in 
the fall, or in March, April or May in the spring They 
are usually planted in rows, two to three feet apart, and 
nine to twelve inches between the plants. In planting, 
every plant should be well firmed, or great loss is almost 
certain to ensue, as the Strawberry is a plant always dif- 
ficult to transplant They are usually worked by a horse 
cultivator, and generally two or three crops are taken 
before the beds are plowed under ; but the first crop 
given (which is in the second year after planting^, is 
always the best : that is, the Strawberry beds set out m 
March, April, or May will give the best crop in June of 



328 qarde:n^ikg for profit. 

the next year. The same care iinist be taken as in plant- 
ing the pot layers ; the ground must be kept clear of 
weeds, and the runners pinched or cut off to make Iriiit- 
ing crowns. By the usual field method of culture, it 
will be seen that there is a loss of one season m about 
three ; for in the year of planting of course no fruit is 
produced. Our own practice is to set aside enough to 
produce early plants, so that pot layers can be obtained 
to set out by the 15th of July ; thus a full crop of the 
finest fruit is had every season, and with less cost, we 
think ; for the only labor, after planting, is to keep the 
ground clean and pinch off the runners, from July to 
October, with the certainty of getting a full crop next 
June, or in less than a year from the time of planting, 
while by planting by ordinary layers, if set out in Au- 
gust, we have three months of fall culture, and six or 
seven months of the next summer's culture, before a crop 
is produced. A2:ain, if the crop is continued to fruit 
the second or third year, every one who has had expe- 
rience with the nature of the plant knows that the labor 
of keeping the plants free from weeds is enormous ; 
while by the pot layering method of taking a fresh crop 
each year, much of such labor is dispensed with. 

There are hardly two sections of the country, 100 miles 
apart, where the same varieties of Strawberries are grown. 
We can only offer those grown in the vicinity of New 
York as our standard. 

The Henderson. — (See figure 102.) This new Straw^berry 
originated with Mr. George Seymour, South Norwalk, 
Conn., in 1883, who named it in honor of the author of 
this work. It is doubtful if there is another Strawberry in 
cultivation having such a combination of good qualities 
as the '* Henderson." The fruit is of the largest size, rich, 
glossy crimson in color, looking as if" varnished, early 
and exceedingly productive, but its excelling merit is its 
exquisite flavor and aroma. Whether for family or mar- 



CULTTRE OF SMALL FRUITS. 



329 



ket use, the " Henderson '' is almosi certain to become a 
standard sort, and its strong and healthy growth will 




Fig. 102. — THE HENDERSON STRAWBERRY. 



adapt it to almost every soil. It is a perfect-flowered, 
variety, and, therefore, never fails to set its fruit. 

Crimson fluster.— (See figure 103.) On the 10th of 
June, 1886, I examined this Strawberry on the grounds 
of the raiser, Mr. E. W. Durand, and found 3,000 plants 
that had been planted on the 15th of August, 1885, 
which, in less than ten months from the date of planting, 
were producing a crop that would average fully a quart 
to each plant ; 3,000 quarts from the 3,000 plants, or at 
the rate of over 20.000 quarts per acre. The crop was 
so immense, and the size of the berries so large, that the 
pickers who were paid two cents per quart, averaged 
twenty-five quarts per hour, or $5.00 per day — a fact 
beyond question, and w^hich could be attested by a dozen 
affidavits. At the first picking, every yard of row 



330 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



yielded a quart of fruit. When to this extraordinary 
production we add the further facts, that this Strawberry 
is of the richest crimson color, borne in immense clusters 
(hence the name), and that it is one of the earliest as 
well as the latest — as its great vigor prolongs its season of 
fruiting — combined with its excellent quality, there is 
every reason to think that it is bound to be the most 
valuable Strawberry ever raised by Mr. Durand. 

On the 10th of July, one month after my first exami- 
nation, seventy quarts of splendid fruit w^ere gathered 




Fig. 103.— CRIMSON CLUSTER STRAWBERKT. 



from the 3,000 plants above referred to, and furthermore, 
to show it still kept on fruiting, Mr. Durand sent me a 
large cluster of berries in all stages of development on 
the .30th of July; something entirely unknown in a 
Strawberry that had already given an immense early crop. 
Mr. Durand says that the ''Crimson Cluster" is so 
completely a pistillate variety that the stamens can 
hardly be seen, yet he says it may be planted five miles 
away from any other Strawberry and yet never fail to 
produce enormous crops. He further says thai he has 
groAvn it in frames under glass in early spring, where it 



CULTURE OF SMALL FKUITS. 



331 



could not possibly be impregnated with any other variety, 
with the same results — an abundant crop. 

He thinks that this fact, to a great extent, upsets tlie 
very prevalent notion that perfect stamens and pistils on 
the same plant are necessary to produce a crop of fruit. 
Without having j^ersonally given the matter much atten- 
tion, I have long believed, from general observation, that 
there was more importance given to the necessity for 
'^perfect flowers," as they are called, in strawberries 
than results warranted. 




Fig. 104.— JERSEY QUEEN STRAWBERRY. 

Jersey Queen. — (See figure 104.) This variety was sold 
for the first time in the fall of 1881, and is, perhaps, one 
of the very best late Strawberiies thus far introduced. 
The size is immense, often measuring six inches in cir- 
cumference. Shape, roundish conical ; color, a beautiful 
scarlet crimson ; perfectly solid, and of excellent flavor. 
It is an enormous bearer, many plants averaging a quart 
of first quality fruit. It is one of the latest Strawberries, 



dd^ 



GARDEN"IXG FOR PROFIT. 



the crop in this vicinity being in perfection about the 
25th of June, wliile the average crop of Strawberries is at 
its best by the 15th of June. 

Bidwell. — Oue of the earliest, most abundantly pro- 
ductive, of medium size, excellent flavor, and light scar- 
let in color. Plants set out from pot layers on August 
5th, 1880, had fruit ripe June 5th, 1881, ten months 
from date of planting. The plants average one quart of 
fruit each. 




Fig. 105.— SHAEPLESS STRAWBERRY. 

Sharpless,— (See figure 105.) With the exception of 
Jersey Queen and ''Crimson Cluster," the largest and 
one of the heaviest berries of this collection. It is of fine 
flavor, a good bearer, and has now become a standard sort. 

Downing. — One of the best of the older sorts. It com- 



CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. 333 

bines all the best qualities, being large, early, rich in 
color and flavor, and abundantly productiye. 

Parry. — One of the earliest large berries, of great 
beauty, excellent quality, prolific, and one of the very 
hardiest and strongest growers. 




Fig. 10(3. — THR JEWELL STRAWBERRY. 

Jewell. — (See figure 106.) Anew variety, originated in 
1880 ; is of the largest size, perfect form, color bright 
red changing to crimson, of medium earliness ; enormous 
cropi^er, sometimes reaching 400 bushels per acre. 

The llofiioaii. — This is now the most popular berry for 
the Southern States. It is of medium size, average flavor, 
but it is a most abundant bearer and strong grower, and, 
above all, has the requisite solidity. or firmness essential 
for distant carriage. 

Crescent and Wilson are yet popular varieties, the 
former being of a light, the other a dark, crimson. Both 
are inferior in size and quality to any of the large varie- 
ties above described, but they are both early, strong 



334 GARDENING FOE PROFIT. 

growing, doing well on nearly all soils, and are often 
used as early market sorts where the market is not crit- 
ical as to quality. 

Strawberries rarely sell at less than an average of $8 
per 100 quarts, and when retailed to the consumer, 
average one-third, more. As about 20,000 plants are 
grown on an acre, and an average crop under good cul- 
ture will give at least 5,000 quarts per acre, the crop, 
when sold even at lowest rates, is a fairly profitable one. 
But it is a crop that must be promptly attended to in 
hoeing and weeding. It never can be made profitable 
under slipshod culture, for, from the nature of the plant, 
it cannot defend itself against weeds, and if neglected 
will quickly get overwhelmed and destroyed. Thousands 
of acres of Strawberries are planted annually, which, 
from the want of prompt w^ork at the proper time, are 
allowed to be destroyed by weeds. At a small cost in 
labor, at the proper time, such crops might have paid a 
handsome profit. 

BLACKBERRIES. 

Although Blackberries are found in a wild state in al- 
most all sections of the country, yet the varieties are so 
much inferior to the cultivated kinds, that it is poor 
economy to depend on them for a supply, no matter 
how abundant they may be. Cultivated Blackberries 
comprise varieties w^hich are not only double the size of 
the wild kinds, but have the advantage of ripening in 
succession throughout the season, from the middle of 
July until the last of September. The distance apart to 
plant Blackberries may be, if in rows, five feet, with the 
plants two feet apart in the rows ; of, if in separate 
hills, they may be set five feet apart each way. In either 
case they should be supported by strong stakes driven 
into the ground, having a height of from four to five feet. 



CULTURE OF SMALL FllUITS. 



335 



to whicli the canes or shoots should be tied. They may 
be set either in the fall or in the spring. If in the fall, 
a covering of four or five inches of rotted manure, leaves 
or soil (if covered vv'ith soil it is best to cut down 
the plants to four or five inches and cover up the whole), 
should be spread over the roots, to prevent them 
from being frozen too much. The plants of 
Blackberries set out either in fall or spring will not 
give fruit the first season, but, if a good growth has 
been made, they will give a full crop the next year. 





Fig. 107.— WILSON BLACKBEKBT. Fig. 108.— KITTATINNT BLACKBERRY. 

That is, if planted, for instance, about the middle of 
April, 1886 (or the previous fall), by the middle of July 
in 1887, a full crop should be obtained. After the fruit 
has been picked the old canes or shoots should be cut 
out to give the new ones a chance to grow, about four or 
five of which only should be left. As the new shoots are 
very vigorous, when they reach a height of four feet or 
at most five feet, they should be checked by pinching off 
the tops. This will cause an abundance of side shoots to 
start, which are to be pinched when about a foot long. 
This treatment increases the productiveness of the plants 
and keeps the fruit within easy reach for gathering. 
The bushes should ba carefully tied to the stakes. Of 



336 GARDENIi^G FOR PROFIT. 

the varieties, that known as Wilson's Early comes in a 
week before any of the others. It is a deep black, large, 
and of excellent quality, being destitute of that hard 
centre so peculiar to most wild sorts. The Kittatinny 
comes next in succession. It is an immensely large 
berry of fine flavor, of a deep shining black color — one of 
the very best. It is somewhat given to rust, which may 
be checked by removing all the rusted young shoots as 
they appear. The next is the old Lawton variety, which 
is hardly as good as either of the others, but has the 
merit of coming in after they are nearly done fruiting. 
There are a number of other kinds of Blackberries offered, 
but the varieties, jibove named are as yet standard sorts 
in most sections of the country. Any one growing Straw- 
berries to .supply a local demand, must of necessity, have 
such fruits as Blackberries to succeed them as the season 
advances, and in most localities they will be found 
equally profitable with Strawberries, although, perhaps, 
for local demand, they could not be sold in as large 
quantities. 

RASPBERRIES. 

The culture of the Raspberry is almost identical with 
that of the Blackberry, except that they may be planted 
one-third closer, and that msome sections, the Raspberry 
is not quite so hardy, and it is better to take the precau- 
tion of laying the shoots down close to the ground in the 
fall, being careful not to break them, and cover them 
up with corn stalks, straw, leaves or litter. This should 
not be done, however, until the weather is quite cold, 
say, in the latitude of New York, the first week in De- 
cember. The covering may be from three to six inches 
thick, and should not be removed in the spring until the 
middle of April, as, if removed too soon, the shoots, 
which would then be beginning to start, might be hurt" 



CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. 



337 



by the late spring frosts. Raspberries are of three colors 
— red, black and yellow. Of the red, Outhbert, Hansell 
and Hudson River Antwerp are the favorites. • Of the 
black varieties, the Gregg is of the largest size, an enor- 




mous producer, of excellent flavor, and should, perhaps, 
be grown to the exclusion of all others of the "Black 
Caps." A yellow variety, known as ^'Caroline," is of 
rich orange color, entirelv hardy /and of excellent flavor. 
Another yellow kind, known as *' Brinkle's Orange," is 



338 



GARDENING POR PROFIT. 




Fig. 110.— THE GREGG KASPBERBT. 

of the most delicious flavor, but it is not hardy unless in 
well sheltered spots. 




Fig. 111.- THE HANSELL RASPBEBKT. 



CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. 339 



CURRANTS. 

The Currant is but little used except for j ies and for 
preserving purposes. There is, perhaps, no other small 
fruit that will give more weight of crop for the space ib 
occupies than the Currant. How^ever, as it is only used 
for these special purposes, and is but very little eaten at 
dessert, in an uncooked state, comparatively few are re- 
quired. The plants should be set out in the garden in 
rows about four feet apartj and three feet between the 
plants ; for market purposes, these distances may be in- 
creased one-half. The young shoots require to be pruned 
in the fall, cutting off about one-third of their growth, 
and thinning out the old shoots when they become too 
thick. They are all trained in bush form, to a height of 
three or four feet. The best red varieties grown are 
known as the Fay, Red Dutch and the Cherry. Of the 
white kinds, that known as the White Dutch is the best. 
It is of a yellowish-white color. This variety is sweeter 
than the reds, and for that reason is better for dessert 
purposes. Black Currants are but little grown, and then 
exclusively for jams and jellies. They should be culti- 
vated in the same way as the whites and reds, although 
they are an entirely diiferent plant, belonging to a differ- 
ent species. 

GOOSEBERRIES. 

The Gooseberry is but little grown in this climate, as 
our summer is entirely too hot for it, and it is rarely 
seen in good condition, as it ripens just in the heat of 
summer, when the weather is the hottest, thus forcing 
it unnaturally to maturity, so that the fine flavor ob- 
tained in milder climates, such as Great Britain, Is never 
found here. For that reason it is not much grown, ex- 
cept to be used in a green state for pies or tarts, and is 



340 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



in but little derarmd. Many of the English varieties are 
offered for sale here, bnt they are so subject to mildew, 
that they rarely do any good. Of the native varieties, 
that known as the Downino- is of a greenish-white color 
when ripe, and of very fair quality. We have also a red 




Fig. 112.— HOUGHTON'S SEEDLING GOOSEBERRY. 

native seedling known as Houghton's, which is of aver- 
age size and flavor. The culture is same as that of the 
currant. 

GRAPES. 

Although grape-vines can be grown in almost any soil, 
yet if a position can be obtained on a sloping bank, fac- 
ing south or southeast, running at a slope of ten or 
fifteen degrees, where the soil is stony or shaly, they will 
usually be found to do better than when planted on level 
lands, particularly if they can be manured. All the 
finest vineyards in (lermany and France are so located, 
and the fruit is always better flavored and freer from 
mildew and other diseases than when on the level. How- 
ever, such conditions are not always to be obtained, and 
the vines, of course, are not so easily worked as when 
planted on the level. There is now so much advance 



CULTURE OF SMALL FRUITS. 



341 




342 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

made in our hardy varieties of native Grapes, that those 
who have not had opportunities of seeing them will be 
surprised to find the vast improvement that has been 
made in this delicious fruit within the last ten or fifteen 
years. We have now Grapes of the finest flavor, of all 
colors, ranging through all the shades of green, amber, 
red and black, ripening in succession from the middle of 
August until the middle of October. Immense areas 
are now being planted with the kinds that have proved 
most profitable for market purposes, and as they can be 
safely shipped to almost any distance, there is no need of 
being dependent upon a local market. There is much 
misconception as to the age at which a grape-vine should 
be planted. It is the general impression that they should 
always be three or four years old. This is a jiopular 
error, for no matter how large a grape-vine may be, it 
will never fruit to any extent the same season it is planted, 
and the larger it is the more it will suffer in being lifted 
and transplanted. Therefore, I always recommend pur- 
chasers to buy young plants, which not only can be 
bought at one-third the price of two or three year old 
ones, but are usually better, even at the same price. If a 
trellis is made for them, they should be planted at a dis- 
tance of six feet apart. The trellis may be any height 
from six to twenty feet, as desired. If planted in vine- 
yard style in the open field, without trellises, they may 
he set six feet between the rows and three or four feet 
between the plants, and tied up to strong stakes. 

The first year after planting, if with vineyard culture, 
they should be cut down, and only one shoot left to reach 
to the top of the five or six foot stake. If it has grown 
strongly and ripened well, that shoot will give a few 
bunches the second year and may be pruned close, so as 
to resemble a walking stick, but with the lateral shoots 
cut back to one eye only — that is, the mahi shoot is 
allowed to stand, and the side shoots or laterals are 



CULTURE OF SMALL FKUITS. 343 

trimmed to one bad or eye. This is what is called the 
Spur System, and will be found to be the most conve- 
nient for the inexperienced cultivator. There are special 
modes of pruning, which are best show^n by illustration, 
and those who require fuller information on this sub- 
ject, I will refer to my work, " Gardening for Pleasure," 
whera the subject of pruning is fully treated. The eight 
kiads which we would recommend for general culture are 
the following : 

Moore's Early* — This variety has large and compact 
bunches ; berries large, black, and covered with a rich 
bloom ; excellent flavor, and is one of the earliest, ripen- 
ing about the 1st of September, or a week before Concord. 

Champion. — Another excellent black ; medium early. 

Niaj^ara. — Is of greenish white color, sometimes tinted 
with rose ; of medium size for a white grape, flavor almost 
equal to the best hot-house grapes ; is immensely produc- 
tive, and sold in the New York markets last year for 
twxmty-five cents per pound, while Concord and other 
older varieties sold at six cents per pound ; ripens the 
middle of September. 

Ulartha. — Another white ; not so good in quality, but 
a strong grower, which might suit in places where 
Niagara would fail. 

Wilder. — Has berries of medium size ; color reddish 
bronze ; berry of exquisite flavor, ripening middle of 
September. 

Salem. — Has large bunches ; color, white, tinted with 
pink; of medium size; delicate flavor; ripening about 
1st of October. A grand variety. 

IJrightOHo — Color reddish bronze, bunch and berries of 
average size, flavor excellent ; a most abundant bearer, 
and one of the very best. Eipens about the 1st of Oc- 
tober. 



8-1:4 GARDExVING FOR PROFIT. 

CoRCOrd, the last we name, is one of the best known 
of all the sorts. It is much inferior in flavor, but it has 
the valuable quality of seldom failing to bear abundant 
crops, and is indispensable in any collection, and if but 
one grape is grown, this should be chosen. 



CHAPTEE XXI. 

IMPLEMENTS. 

The tools or implements actually required for the 
market garden are comparatively few. The most im- 
portant implements in use in the vegetable garden are 
plow and harrow, which should always be used to the 




Fig. 114. — ROLAND CHILLED PLOW. 

exclusion of the spade or digging fork, whenever it is 
practicable to do so. No digging in the ordinary way 
can pulverize the soil so thoroughly as can be done by 
the plow and harrow, nor does trenching by the spade, 
much surpass in its results, that done by thorough sub- 
soiling. 

Figure 114 represents a plow now largely used by mar- 
ket gardeners and known as the Roland Chilled Plow. 
So superior are its pulverizing powers to those of the 



IMPLEMENTS. 



345 



spade that we know of no market gardener who would 
allow his ground to be dug, even if it were done free of 
cost. 

To avoid the frequent change of shares, and the extra 
cost of replacing them, a reversible, 
self-sharpening slip point (see figure 
115), is now made. When the bottom 
of this point is worn, and the plow 
tends to run out of the ground by rea- 
son of the rounded point, the slip point 
Fig. 115.-SLIP SHARE, is taken out and reversed, and thus 
doubles the length of its useful life. 

Miner's G-old Medal Subsoil Plow (figure 116), is the 
best subsoil plow we know of. It involves new princi- 
ples, and accomplishes the work of stirring, loosening 
and draining the soil beneath the furrow of the common 





Fig. 116,— miner's subsoil plow. 

plow, lifting and breaking (but not turning) the sub- 
soil to the depth of fifteen to twenty inches, as may be 
desired. On very stiff soils, we use the subsoiler once in 
two years ; in lighter soils not so often ; although if 
time would always permit, there is no doubt but that it 
would be beneficial to use it whenever plowing is done. 

The Garden Harrow (figure 117) we find is well 
suited for garden work. It contains some forty teeth 
about ten inches long. These are driven through the 



346 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



wood-work, leaving five or six inches of the sharpened 
end on the one side, and one and a half to two inches of 
the blunt end on the other, as shown in figure 117. After 




Fis:. 117.— GARDEN HARROW. 



the ground has been thoroughly pulverized by the teeth 
of the harrow it is turned upside down and "backed," 





Fig. 118.— DIGGING FORK. Fig. 119.— AMES' FIRST QUALITY. 

as we term it, the short blunt teeth further breaking up 
the soil, and smoothing it to a proper condition to receive 
the seeds or plants. 



IMPLEMENTS. 



34: 



But there are many spots in the garden that it is im- 
practicable to plow, such as our frames, borders, and 
occasionally between rows where the space is too narrow 
for a horse to walk. Such places must be dug, and here 
we use the Digging Fork, represented by figure 118, in 




"Fig. 120.— SKELETON PLOW. 

preference to the spade. Its prongs enter the soil more 
easily than the blade of the spade, and by striking the 
turned over soil with the back of the fork, it pulverizes 
it better than can be done by the blade of the spade. 
Still there are many operations in the garden, such as 
the digging up of roots, earthing up of Celery, etc. , for 
which the spade is indispensable. For such purposes the 




Fig:. 121.— TRIANGULAR ADJUSTABLE HARROW. 

one represented by figure 119, and known as ''Ames' 
First Quality," we find the best. 

For stirrmg between narrow ]*ows of Cabbage, Celery, 
etc., we use a small one-horse plow before using the cul- 
tivator. This is represented by figure 120, and is known 



us 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



as the Skeleton or Cabbage Plow. Following this, is our 
main implement for cultivating between rows, which is 
simply a Triangular Adjustable Harrow, represented by 
figure 121. This implement, we prefer to any variety of 
cultivator we have ever used, on ground where there are 




no tveeds, as its teeth sink from three to four inches deep 
if kept sharpened ; when extra depth is- wanted, a weight 
is put on to smk it deeper. Another excellent implement, 
which we have used to great advantage in our mai'ket gar- 
dens, is the Acme Harrow (figure 122), which it will be 



IMPLEMENTS. 349 

seen is of an entirely different construction from the 
harrow just described. As a pulverizer or leveler we 
have found it one of the very best implements we have 
ever used for those 'purposes ; for it is not only a harrow, 
but, under cei'tain conditions of the soil, it is to all intents 
and purposes a gang of small plows ; or, in other words, 
m a soft or light soil you can plow the ground just as 
tharoughly for six feet wide as you can do it with the 
ordinary plow eight inches wide. Although this imple- 
ment has been' recommended especially for farm work, 
our own experience with it convinces us that it is equally 
valuable in the market garden. Still another excellent 
smoothing harrow is that known as the Disc, which con- 
sists of some sixty sharp discs, placed on revolving shafts 
so as to cut the soil to a depth of three inches by one 




Fig. 123.— DISC HARROW. 

inch in width, which levels the ground as completely as 
can be done with a steel rake in the hands of an expert 
workman. The use of this implement has saved us an 
immense deal of labor, which previously was done by 
hand rakes. 

In all hoeing operations by hand, the Steel-Prong 
Hoe (figure 124), is used in preference to the old-fashioned 
blade hoe ; yet superior as this implement is to the 
blade hoe, it is not much more than twenty years since 
it came into general use. A man can do fully one- 
third more work with it, do it better, and with greater 
ease than with the blade hoe. True, it is not so good 
for cutting weeds, but weeds should never be seen in a 
garden, whether it be for pleasure or profit ; it is short- 
sighted economy to delay the destruction of weeds until 



350 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



they start to grow. One man will hoe over in one day 
more ground where the weeds are just breaking through 
than six will do if they be allowed to grow six or eight 
inches in height, to say nothing of the injury done to 
the ground by feeding the weeds instead of the planted 
crops. Another benefit of this early extirpation of weeds 
is, that taken in this stage, they, of course, never seed. 





Fig. 124.— PRONG HOE. 




Fig. 125.— STEEL RAKE. 



Fig. 126. — SCUFFLE HOB. 



and'm a few years they are almost entirely destroyed, 
making the clearing a much simpler task each succeed- 
ing year. 

Another tool, used in place of the hoe, is the Steel Rake 
(figure 125), which we use in various sizes, from eight 
inches to twenty inches in width. Nearly all our first 
"hoeing "is done with rakes. That is, the ground is 
raked over and leveled in from two to three days after 



IMPLEMENTS. 351 

planting. This destroys the germs of the weeds. In 
from five to ten days, according to the state of the 
weather, the ground is again gone over with the rakes. 
I am no believer in deep hoeing on newly planted or 
sown crops ; it is only when plants begin to grow that 
deep hoeing is beneficial. 

For using between narrow rows of crops just starting 
from the ground, the Posh or Scuffle Hoe (figure 126), 
is a most effective tool. We use them from six to twelve 
inches wide. They require to be always about three in- 
ches narrower than the rows ; thus, in rows nine inches 
apart, we use the six-inch hoe. Another indispensable 
implement is the Eoller (figure 127). It is of great im- 
portance, not only in breaking lumpy soil, but in firm- 




Fig. 127.— GABDEN ROLLER. 

ing it properly around newly sown seeds ; besides, the 
ground leveled by the roller is much easier hoed than if 
the surface were uneven or irregular. The roller we 
use is made of hard wood, and is five or six feet long 
and nine inches in diameter. The roller is bored throuah 
its whole length, and through this hole is put a bar of 
two-inch round iron. This bar gives the necessary 
weight, and its projecting ends afford points to which to 
attach the handle. 

The Double Marker (home-made), figure 128, is used 
to mark six or eight lines at once, as may be required, 
the spaces between the teeth being twelve inches on one 
side, and nine inches on the other. Where rows are re- 



352 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

quired onlj of these widths, every row is, of course, 
planted. But many of our crops require wider rows ; 
thus, with a twelve-inch marker we plant our early Cab- 
bages at twenty -four inches apart, the intervening rows 
being planted with Lettuce at the same time ; or, with 




Fijr, 128.— DOUBLE MARKER. 



the narrow side of the marker, every row nine inches 
apart is planted with Onion se^s j or, in such a crop as 
Beets, every alternate row only is used, making the rows 
eighteen inches part. This is the marker that has been 




Fig. 129.— RAPP'S ADJUSTABLE MA.BEEB. 

in use for many years. Within the last year, however, 
a new implement, known as Rapp's Adjustable Ground 
Marker, has been offered, and a large number of them 
have been sold to the best market gardeners in our vicin- 
ity, a.11 of whom, without exception, say that: it effects a 



IMPLEMENTS, 



353 



gi'eat saving in time and labor, compared with the old 
marker so long in use. Rapp's Marker is made of hard 
wood and iron. By means of thumb-nuts it is adjustable 
in all its parts, as its name implies. The entire length 
of the heal is divided into inches, plainly marked ; thus 
the teeth may be set to any desired gauge with accuracy, 
while the depth of the trenches is regulated by two iron 
feet. An important advantage possessed by this marker 
over the old one is, that by raising the- handle slightly 
the weight of the machine is thrown on the feet, thus 
allowing a shallower trench to be dug, and relieving the 
operator of the necessity of carrying the machine, as here- 
tofore. This Marker, an illustration of which we give 




Fig. 130.— MARKET WAGON. 

in figure 129, can be obtained from nrost of the seed or 
implement houses. 

The Market Wagon (figure 130), is made after various 
patterns in different sections of the country. That 
shown in the engraving is the kind used by us, and is 
usually drawn by one heavy horse. It is strongly made, 
weighing about 1,400 pounds, and is capable of carrying 
from 2,000 to 3,000 pounds. 

The "Planet Jr." Combined Drill, Wheel Hoe, Cul- 
tivator and Plow is really a most excellent and valu- 
able implement, combining in one, three implements, 
all nearly as effective as any of them would be separately. 
The change? are easily and quickly adjustable. We have 



354 



GABDEJS^IKG ]?0R PROFIT. 




Fipj. 133. — *' P1.A.NBT JK." DOUBLE WHEEL HOE, CULTIVATOH AITO PLOW 

COMBINED. 



IMPLEMENTS, 



355 



used this implement for the past two years with great 
satisfaction and profit. 

Planet Jr. Double Wheel Hoe^ Cultivator and Plow 
is on the same principle as the preceding, nearly ident- 
ical, except wanting the Seed Drill Attachment. 

The Asparagus Knife (figure 133), is a tool intended 
for cutting the Asparagus below the surface of the soil, 



Tig. 133.— ASPARAGUS KNIFE. 

the saw teeth being used where there is danger of injur- 
ino: the edore of the knife. 

The Aspaj-agus Buncher, shown in figure 134, is the 
only implement of the kind that we know of, and while 
it is an improvoment over the old pro- 
cess of tying by hand, 
it is not as perfect as it 
might be. 

The Garden Line Eeel 
( Igure 135), is best de- 
scribed by our cut. The 
best size wo have used is 
one that vv^ill carry 150 
feet of line. 

Figure 136 represents a 
Horseradish Grater, and 
this machine is perhaps as convenient to use as any that 
can be found. It is easily operated by one person. 
The cylinder is covered with heavy perforated tin, and 
the roots, first cleaned by scraping, are held up against 
it and grated off in that way. Such a grater as we show 
will grate about fifteen pounds an liour. 

The Dibber (figure 137), is a very simple but indis- 
pensable tool. It is of importance to have it made in 
the manner rej^resented here. It can be formed from a 
crooked piece of any hard wood, and shod with a sharp 




Fip:. 134.— ASPAR- 
AGUS BUNCHElt. 




FifT. 1?5.— 

GARDEN LHJB 
REEL. 



356 



GARDEIS^ING FOR PROFIT. 



iron point, which gives weight to it, besides it always 
keeps sharp. Dibbers are too often made from an old 




Pig. 13U. — HORSERADISH GRATER. 

spade or shovel handle, when they are awkward and un- 
handy affairs. 

• Planting is an operation that often requires the most 
rapid movement to get the crop in at the proper time, 
and the best appliances in working are not to be disre- 
garded. With a Dibber of this style an expert planter 
with a boy to drop the plants, as we invariably 
practise, will plant from 6,000 to 10,000 per 
day, accord mg to the kind of plants or the 
condition of the ground. I have on many oc- 
casions planted in one day three acres of Celery, 
holding about 90,000 plants with ten men, each 
of whom had a boy from ten to fourteen years 
of age, to drop the plants down before him. 
This plan of using boys is not generally adopted, 
but I have repeatedly proved that, by thus di- 
viding the labor, a boy and a man will do more dibber." 
planting than two men would do if planting singly, and 
each carrying his own plants. 




Fig. 137. 



IMPLEMENTS. 



357 



Another valuable market garden tool is the Planet Jr. 
Horse Hoe and Cultivator. The frame will expand to 
twenty-four inches, or close to five inches, or it can be 




adapted to almost any width of row^. The value of this 
tool is largely due to the peculiar shape of the teeth, 
which will be uttderstood by lef erring to the engraving. 



358 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



The success of all garden operations depends upon 
preparatory measures ; for this reason the beginner in 
the business can be much benefited by being reminded, as 
he goes along, of the work necessary to be done to ensure 
successful results in the future. To do this, I must, to 
some extent, repeat directions given in the body of the 
work, but as they will be presented here in a condensed 
form, they will not tax the time of the reader. As in 
all other references made "to dates, the latitude of New 
York is taken as a basis, that being not only the point 
from which our experience has mostly been derived, but 
also one that will best suit the majority of readers 
throughout the country. Those whose location is more 
southerly or northerly must use their judgment in 
adapting the directions to suit their locality. 

Jakuary. — Vegetation in our Northern States is com- 
pletely dormant during this month, so that, as far as 
operations in the soil are concerned, it might be a season 
of leisure ; but the business of gardening being one that 
so largely requires preparation, there is always plenty to 
do. The ground being usually frozen, and giving us 
good hauling, it is always the month in which our ener- 
gies are given to getting manure, muck, lime, etc., into 
convenient places for spring work. Care should be 
taken to get manure in heaps large enrmgh to generate 
suflBcient heat to prevent its being frozen, so that it can 
be turned and broken up thoroughly before it is spread 
upon the ground. This work is often very slovenly per- 



MOXTHLY CALENDAR. 859 

formed, and the value of maaiire much reduced by in- 
attention to turning' and breaking it up during- winter. 
Sometimes it is injured by being thinly scattered, so that 
it freezes solid ; and again, if tiirown into large heaps, 
and left unturned, it burns by violent heating, getting 
in the condition which gardeners call ^^Ore fanged."' 
It is always an indication that the manure heap needs 
turning wiien it is seen to emit vapor, no matter how 
often it has been turned previously, for it should always 
be borne in mind that it quickly loses by heating, while 
it always gains by a thorough breaking up in turning. 

January is usually the month in which we have our 
heaviest snow storms, which often entail on us an im- 
mense amount of necessary, though unprofitable labor, 
not only in clearing roads, but also in clearing off the 
snow from our cold frames and forcing-pits, for even at 
this season of dormant vegetation, light is indispensable 
to the well-being of our vegetable plants ; unless they 
are in a frozen condition, that is, if we have had a con- 
tinuation of zero weather, all our plants of Cabbage, 
Lettuce, Cauliflower, etc., are frozen in the cold frames ; 
if in this state, the glass is covered up by snow, it is un- 
necessary to remove ic, even for two or three weeks, but 
if the weather has been mild so that the plants under the 
sashes have not been frozen when covered by snow, then 
the snow must be cleared from the glass as soon as 
practicable. In the greenhouses, hot-beds, or forcing- 
pits, where artificial heat is used, the removal of the 
snow from the glass is of the utmost consequence. 

If not done in December, the final covering up of Cel- 
ery trenches, root-pits, and all things requiring protec- 
tion from frost, should be attended to in the first week 
of this month. 

Should the ground be open enough to allow of digging 
(which occasionally occurs here even in January), let 
all roots remaining in the ground be ^\\^ up and pitted, 



300 GARDENING hOll PJlOflT. 

as another cluiuce is not likely to occur before sprino^. 
Cold frames and forcing-pits, particularly the former, 
should be aired whenever the weather will permit, for it 
is necessary to carry them safely through until spring, 
that they may be properly hardened. (See Chapter on 
Cold Frames.) Sow, in greenhouse or hot-bed. Cabbage, 
Cauliflower and Lettuce. (See Chapter on ^' How to 
Raise Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce," page 51.) 

February. — The gardening operations differ but little 
from those of January, except that in the latter part of 
the month, as the days lengthen and the sun gets brighter, 
more air may be given to framing and forcing-pits. Hot 
manure should now be got forward to be prepared for 
hot-beds, and if desired, some maybe formed this month. 
(See Chapter on Hot-beds.) Have all tools purchased or 
repaired, so that no time may be lost in the more valu- 
able days of next month. It is important to always have 
spare tools of the leading kinds, so that men may not be 
thrown idle, at a hurried season, by the breaking of a 
fork, spade, or hoe. In harness and implements, con 
nected with the teams, it is of great importance to have 
spare parts to replace those liable to be broken ; otlier- 
wise, half a day is frequently lost by the breaking of a 
whiffle-tree, or plow share, causing more loss by delay 
than three or four times the cost of the article. Sow, for 
succession crops. Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce in 
greenhouse or hot-beds. 

March is one of the busiest months in the year with 
us. 'Hot-beds are made and planted or sown, and Let- 
tuce crops may be planted in cold frames and forcing- 
pits (see directions under these heads). In the latter 
part of the month we often begin, on dry soils, the sow- 
ing or planting in the open ground of such hardy vege- 
tables as Horseradish, Cabbage, Lettuce, Onions, Rad- 
ishes, Turnips, etc., etc. Although we gain but little 
in earliness by starting before April, yet it forwards our 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 301 

operations, so that it equalizes labor more than when 
starting late in spring. Enthusiastic beginners must 
avoid the too common error of beginning out-door 
operations too soon, when the soil is not sufficiently dry ; 
for, if the soil is dug or plowed while wet, it is highly 
injurious, not only destroying the present crop, but in- 
juring the land for years after. Sow for succession, if 
wMited, Cabbage, Cauliflower, or Lettuce, in hot-beds, 
greenhouse, or cold frames. 

New plantations of Asparagus, Ehubarb, Sea Kale, 
and Artichokes may be made, and old beds top-dressed 
by digging in short manure close around the plants ; we 
consider it more economical of manure to do this m 
spring than in fall. (See Asparagus.) 

Such roots as Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, Leek, Lettuce, 
Onion, Parsnip, etc., planted to produce seed, may be 
set out the latter part of this month, on soils that are 
warm and dry, drawing earth up around the crowns so 
as to protect them from sharp frosts ;• in hoeing, in 
April, this soil is remoyed. 

Where extra laborers are wanted for the garden, I have 
always considered it economy to secure them in the 
early part of March, even a week or two before they are 
really needed, for if the hiring of them is delayed until 
the rush of work is upon us, we often have to pay higher 
rates for inferior hands, and have less time to initiate 
them in their duties. To such as require large numbers 
of hands, and look to such ports as New York for emi- 
grants, let me caution my friends from the rural dis- 
tricts not to believe too implicitly in the promises of 
these prospective American citizens. Much vexatious ex- 
perience has taught me that one out of every three men 
is either worthless, or will run away, so that for many 
years back, if I wanted four hands, I made one job of it 
and hired six, well knowing that before a week had passed, 
my force would be reduced to the required number. 



3tr2 GARDEXIKG FOR PROFIT. 

April brings nearly all the operations of the gar- 
den nnder way ; the planting and sowing oi all the hardy 
varieties of vegetables is completed this month. (See 
table in Chapter on Seed Sowing). Looiv well to the hot- 
beds, cold frames, or forcing-pits ; t'iiey will require 
abundance of air, and (where artificial heat is used), 
plenty of water ; we have now bright sunshine, promot- 
ing rapid vegetation under glass, and to have heavy 
crops, they must not be stinted in water. Hot-beds are 
particularly critical in this month; an hour or two of 
neglect, in giving air, may quickly scorch the tender 
plants that you have been nursing with so much care for 
a month previous ; and a balmy April day may terminate 
ill a stinging frost at night, making short work of your 
hot-beds if they are not well covered up by straw mats. 

Plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, etc., if not made 
last month, should now be done, as those set out later 
than April will not make such a vigorous growth. Suc- 
cession crops of Lettuce, Beets, Cabbage, Onions, Peas, 
Potatoes, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips, etc., may be 
planted or sown during the latter part of the month, to 
succeed those planted in March and early part of April. 

The early sown crops should be hoed, and the ground 
stirred close to the young plants, so as to destroy the 
germ of the weeds now appearing. 

May. — Although the bulk of the hardy vegetables is 
now planted, yet the tender varieties are still to come ; 
they require more care, as they are more susceptible of 
injury, by too early or injudicious planting, than the 
others. In the early part of the month, the succession 
crops, named in April, may be yet planted so as to pro- 
duce good crops, and the tender varieties, such as Bush 
Beans, Corn, Melon, Okra, Pepper, Squash, Tomato, may 
be sown or planted after the middle of the month ; but 
Egg Plants, Sweet Potatoes, Lima Beans and Peppers 
had better be delayed to the last week in May or 1st of 



MOXTHLY CALENDAR. 363 

June. The first produce of the spring plantings will 
now be ready for use. Lettuce or Radishes, planted in 
cold frames m March, are matured from 5th to 20th 
May, and if covered up by straw mats at night, ten 
days earlier. In warm situations, on rich, liglit soils, 
the Radishes, Lettuce, Turnips, or Peas, planted in 
March, are fit for market. Rhubarb and Asparjigns are 
also fit to be gathered, on early soils, the latter part of 
the month. 

Additional labor is now beginning to be required, the 
marketing of crops occupying a large portion of the time, 
while the thinning out of sown crops, and the keeping 
down of weeds which are now showing themselves 
everywhere, entails an amount of labor not before neces- 
sary. To withhold labor at this critical time is short- 
sighted economy, whether by the owner of a private or 
market garden ; for let the crops planted and sown 
once get enveloped by weeds, it will often cost more in 
labor to clean the crop than it will sell for. It is not at 
all an uncommon occurrence to see acres of Carrots or 
Parsnips plowed down, after being carefully manured 
and sown, from neglect or inability of the owner to pro- 
cure labor at the proper time. The rapid development 
of weeds is, to the inexperienced, very deceptive ; a crop 
of Carrots, Parsnips, Beets, or Onions, may appear to be 
easily manageable at a given day in May ; but a few days 
of continued rain occurs, and the crop that could have 
been profitably cultivated on the 15th is hopelessly over- 
grown on the 25th. 

June is one of the months in which we reap the re- 
w^ard of our operations in the market garden ; at this 
time the bulk of all the early crops matures in the 
Northern States. So far, nearly all has been outlay ; 
now, we receive the returns. In this district our early 
crops of Asparagus, Beets, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Let- 
tuce, Onion, Peas, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach and 



3(J-i GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

Turnip are sold off, and the ground plowed for the 
second crop (except in the cases of Asparagus and Rhu- 
barb), by the end of the month. For private gardens 
(or in special cases for local markets), succession crops 
of Beets, Bush Beans, Cabbages, Cucumbers, Lettuce, 
Peas, Radishes and Potatoes may still be planted, but, 
as a rule, it would hardly be profitable for market pur- 
poses, as it would occupy the land wanted by the mar- 
ket gardener for his second crop, besides the market 
buyer of the cities will hardly touch a vegetable or fruit 
behind its season at any price. He will pay ten cents 
per bunch for Radishes in May, and will pass by a far 
better article of the same kind in July or August;^ 
though offered at one-fifth the price. He will give fifty 
cents per quart for Tomatoes (half-ripe), in June, that 
he could not be induced to touch in October, if he could 
buy them at twenty-five cents per bushel. 

The Cucumbers, planted in cold frames and forcing- 
pits, are also marketable in the latter part of this month. 
Great care must be taken to have them abundantly 
watered in dry weather ; inattention to watering (par- 
ticularly of all vegetables under glass), is sure to entail 
loss on the cultivator, by giving an imperfect or partial 
crop. Watering had better be done in the evening, 
unless chilly, whenever the surface appears dry, not 
by a mere sprinkling, but by a thorough soaking — not 
less than a gallon to every square yard of surface. As 
soon as the Cucumbers are all cut from the frames, the 
sashes should be piled up at the ends of each section and 
covered with a shutter, and a weight of some kind put 
on the top, to prevent these from bemg blown off by 
high wmds. 

July. — The remaining part of the spring crops are 
cleared off m the early days of this month, and by the 
middle of it, unless the season is unusually dry, all the 
ground is planted with the second crops of Celery, Sage, 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 365 

Thyme, Late Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, or Leeks. 
Little is done to these crops this month, as but little 
growth IS made during the hot, dry weather, and newly 
phmted crops are merely stirred between the rows with 
the hoe or cultivator. Some of the other later crops are 
now maturing for market. Bush Beans, Cucumbers, 
Potatoes, Squashes, and, in early places. Tomatoes ; also 
succession crops of Peas, Beets, Onions, Cabbages, etc., 
such of these as only mature during Xhe end of the 
month, render the second crops rather late, unless for 
the later crops of Celery and Spinach. 

August. — Except the months of January and Febru- 
ary, August is a month requiring less labor in the mar- 
ket garden than any other. Usually all tlie planting has 
been done in July, and the long drouths, common at 
this season, stagnate the growth of even our most 
luxuriant weeds, so that in this month, of all others, the 
garden ought to be clean. 

Late plantings of Celery may be made to the middle 
of the month, and still give fair-sized roots for winter. 
Spinach may also be sown for an early crop, to be cut 
off in fall. Ruta Baga Turnips should be sown early in 
the month, and the white and yellow varieties during 
the later part. Be careful now, if the land is dry, to 
firm after sowing. (See '^Use of the Feet in Sowing and 
Planting.") If the "fly" attacks them, it may be kept 
down, so as to do but little harm, by frequent applica- 
tions of lime dusted lightly over the rows. Bush Beans 
and Peas may still be sown for late crops. For Peas 
for late sowing, we found our "First of All" variety 
the best. In 1886, a crop sown 25th of August was 
marketed late in October, and sold at excellent prices. 
The Onion crop will ripen off during this month, and 
when convenient to market, should be offered for sale as 
soon as gathered, as the price received for those first sold is 
frequently double that of those coming m ten days later. 



366 GARDENING FOR PkOFIT. 

September. — The cool nights and moist atmosphere 
of this month begin to tell strikingly on the crops 
planted for fall use. Celery, Cabbage and Cauliflower 
now grow rapidly, and require repeated stirring of tba 
soil with the plow, cultivator, or hoe. Celery that is 
wanted for use towards the latter part of the month may 
now be "handled" or straightened up, and the earth 
drawn to it by the hoe ; in a week or so after it may be 
*' banked up " by the spade to half its height, allowed to 
grow for another week or more, until it lengthens out a 
little further, when the banking should be continued as 
high as its top. In ten days (at this season), when thus 
finished, it is blanched sufficiently to use, and should 
then be used, or it will soon spoil. Care must be taken 
that no more is banked up than can be sold or used, as 
it is not only labor lost, but is decidedly hurtful to the 
Celery by making it hollow. The practice recommended 
by most authorities, and still followed by private gar- 
deners, is to keep earthing it up every two weeks from 
the time it begins to grow ; this is utter nonsense, re- 
sulting in making tough, stringy, and rusty Celery — 
utterly unfit to eat, while the expenditure in labor 
would be twice more than the price it would usually 
bring if sold ; for further information on this important 
subject, see Chapter on Celery. The seeds of Cauliflower, 
Cabbao'e and Lettuce should be sown this month, from 
the 15th "to the 25th, for the purpose of being pricked 
out in cold frames to be wintered over. It is very im- 
portant that the sowing should be done as near these 
dat^s as possible, for if sown much before the 15th the 
plants may run up to seed when planted out in spring ; 
if much later than the :35th, they w^ould be too weak 
to be wintered over. Shallots aud Onions should also 
be planted this month, and Spinach and German Greens, 
or "Sprouts," sown to be wintered over, all now for 
spring use. 



I 



MOXTHLY CALENDAR. 367 

October. — This month corresponds in part to June of 
the summer months, being that in which the returns 
from the second crops come in. Celery tliat has been 
banked or earthed up, now sells freely and in consider- 
able quantities. All the crop should this month be 
'*' handled," and, as much as possible, earthed up. Cauli- 
flower is usually scarce and dear in the early part of this 
month, but unless the fall has been unusually moist, is 
generally not matured until towards- the end of the 
month. Thyme, Sage and all Sweet Herbs should 
now he sold, from the beginning of the month, cutting 
out only every alternate row, as it gives the crop time to 
grow, so that the remaining rows spread sufficiently to 
fill the space. (See article on Thyme, etc.) 

The crops planted or sown last month must now be 
carefully hoed and the weeds removed ; for, though 
weeds are not quite so numerous in variety as in summer, 
Chickweed, now very abundant, is one of the most ex- 
pensive weeds of the garden to eradicate. 

The plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce, re- 
commended to be sown last month, are now fit to be 
pricked out in the cold frames. (See detail of the 
process, page 45.) 

November. — This month warns us that winter is ap- 
proacliing. and preparations should be carefully made 
towards securing all products of the garden that are 
perishable by frost. The process of putting away the 
Celery crop in trenches for winter use (see Celery article), 
should be begun about the 5th or 10th of the month in 
dry weather. That put m trenches then will be blanched 
suffiiciently for use in six or eight weeks, but when suffi- 
cient help can be obtained, it will always pay well to 
bank or earth up a large portion of Celery by the spade, 
clear to the top : this will usually keep it safe from 
injury from any frost that we have in this month, and 
thus protected it need not be put away into winter 



368 GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 

quarters — the trenches — before the end of November. 
Put away thus late, it will keep usually without the loss 
of a root until March or April, when it is always scarce 
and high in price. The great ditiiculty most persons have 
is from stowing it away and covering it up too early ; 
this practice of earthing it up to the top roughly in 
November we have only recently practised, but find the 
extra labor well repaid, as we are enabled thus to save 
this very valuable crop without loss. There is rarely 
need of applying any covering of leaves or litter to the 
trenches this month, and it cannot be too often told that 
the covering up of vegetables of all kinds in winter 
quarters should be delayed to the very last moment that 
it is safe to do so. Beets, Carrots, Cabbages and Cauli- 
flowers must be dug up and secured this month in the 
manner recommended in " Preserving Vegetables in 
Winter." Horseradish, Salsify and Parsnips, being en- 
tirely hardy and frost proof, need not necessarily be 
dug, although from the danger of their being frozen in 
the ground next month, if time will permit, the work 
had better be progressing. 

All clear ground should be dug or plowed, and prop- 
erly leveled, so that on the openmg of spring operations 
can be begun with as little delay as possible. If draining 
is required this is the most convenient time to do it, the 
ground being clear and not yet much frozen. 

Towards the end of the month the sashes should be 
put on the Cabbage and Lettuce plants in cold nigjits, 
. but on no account should they be kept on in day-time, 
as it is of the utmost importance that they be not made 
tender at this time by being " drawn" under the sashes. 
I may again repeat that these plants are half hardy, and 
it is killing them with kindness to protect them from 
slight freezing. Cabbage and Lettuce plants may be ex- 
posed in any place without glass or other protection 
where the thermometer runs no lower than ten above 



MONTHLY CALEiq-DAR. 369 

zero. Rhubarb and Asparagus ' beds will be benefited 
by a covering of four or six inches of rough manure, or 
any other litter, to prevent the severity of the frost ; the 
crop from beds thus covered will come in a few days 
earlier, and will be stronger than if left unprotected. 

Deceliber. — Occasionally we have the ground open, 
so that digging and plowing can be done to nearly the 
end of the month, but it is not safe to calculate much 
after the first week ; though by covering up the roots, 
still undug, with their own leaves or with litter, we are 
of en enabled to dig our Horseradish or Parsnips very 
late in the month, and, like all other vegetables, the later 
they remain in the soil they grow in the finer is the 
quality. 

Celery trenches should receive the first covering early 
in the month, if the weather has been such that it has 
been unnecessary before. The covering should not be less 
than four or five inches of litter or leaves, only taking 
care that the material is light ; weight or closeness would 
prevent evaporation too much at this season, v\^hile the 
weather is not yet severe. The final covering should not 
be later than the end of the month. 

The crops of Spinach, Kale, Onions, Shallots, etc., 
that have been planted or sown m September, should be 
covered up with hay or straw if their position is much 
exposed ; if not, there is no particular necessity. When 
all has been secured safely in winter quarters, attention 
must be energetically turned to procuring manure, muck, 
and all available kinds of fertilizers. There is little dan- 
ger of spending too much in this way if you have it to 
spend ; depend upon it, there is no better investment if 
you are working your Garden for Profit. Straw and 
rope for straw mat making should always be on hand, so 
as to give employment to the hands in stormy weather. 



INDEX. 



Capital Required - 17 

Climate, Ours Different from 

England - 105 

Crops, liotation of 110 

Cuttings, Variation of Plants 

from 373 

Drainage - 28 

Drain, Uoard 30 

Flat Stone 30 

Rubble--- 30 

Tile --- - 29 

Fertilizers (See Manures) 38 

Application of 39 

Comparative Value of 39 

Preparation of 38 

Special 41 

Forcing Pits 63 

Frames, Cold, and Hot-beds.- 44 

Airing - - - 46 

Cucumbers in 48 

Frozen Plants in 49 

Lettuce in - 47 

Protecting Cloth for 50 

Seed Sowing in 49 

Shelter for^ 45 

Snow upon -- 49 

Spring Raising of Cabbage 

Plants, Etc- 51 

Ground, Preparation of the.-- 31 

"Hill," Meaning of the Term 224 

Hot-beds 56 

Egg Plants in 58 

Frame for 56 

Forcing Lettuce in 58 

INIanure for 57 

Pepper Plants in 58 

Sashes for 56 

Straw Mats for 61 

Sweet Pol atoes in — 60 

Sowing in 108 

Tomato Plants in . - 58 

'When to Plant in 45 

Importance of Ventilation 105 
Houses, Forcing and Green- 
house Buildings and Ap- 
purtenances -- --- 66 

Greenhouse for Forcing . . 73 

John Hudson's 73 

Heating of- - - - - - 76 

Heated^by Flue 70 

(370) 



Heating by Return 

Flue 81 

Flues, Danger from 70 

Flue, How to BuUd 70, 87 

Greenhouses, Profits of... 69 

Pump for 66 

Rotation in 67 

Soil for 76 

Vegetable.- 24 

Watering in 66 

Sashes, How Fastened 65 

Sashes, How to Glaze 75 

Wells - 24 

IMPLEMENTS. 

Buncher, Asparagus - 355 

Dibble or Dibber 356 

Drill, Planet Jr. Combined 354 

Fork, Digging - 346 

Grater, Hoiseradish 356 

Harrow, The Acme 348 

Tlie Disc 349 

Garden 346 

Triangular Adjustable 347 

Hoe, Horse, and Cultivator.-- 357 

Prong 350 

Push 350 

Scuffle 350 

Single Wheel, Etc 358 

Kuite, Asparagus - - - - - 355 

Line, Garden, and Reel 355 

Marker, Adjustable - 352 

Plow, Cabbage 347 

Roland Chilled 344 

Slip Share for... 345 

Subsoil 345 

Skeleton 347 

Rake, Steel 350 

Roller, Garden 351 

Spade, Ames' First Quality.-. 346 

Wagon, Market 353 

Laying Out of Garden 24 

Location of Garden 23 

Manures ( See also Fertilizers) 33 

Alternation of 35 

Ashes, Wood 43 

Bone Dust 35 

Comparative Value of 36 

Cotton-seed Meal 42 

GasLime 43 



INDEX. 



371 



Manures, Green Crops as 37 

Peruvian Guano 34 

Preparing- Guano, Etc 38 

Hops, liei'use 33 

Horn Shavings 34 

Horse 33 

Lime 42 

Marl 42 

Muck 40 

Night Son.- 35 

Plaster .._ 43 

Poudi-ette.- 40 

Salt as 40 

Sugar-house Scum 34 

Whalebone, Refuse 34 

Men Suited to G ardening 13 

Monthly Calendar, January . . 358 

February 360 

March 360 

April 362 

May 362 

June 363 

July 364 

August 365 

September 366 

October 367 

Novenibeik - - 367 

December 369 

Number of Plants to an Acre. 113 
Plants for Frames, When to 

Sow 44 

Plants Propagated from Cut- 
tings, Do tliey Vary ? 273 

Profits of Gardening 20 

Rosebuds, Boston.. 273 

Rosebuds, Madison _ - 273 

Seeds and Seed Raising. . 89 

Cabbage become Annual. 105 
California, Seed Growing 

in . 91 

Celery, Success in Sowing 94 

Failing to Germinate 94 

Feet, Use of, in SoAving . . 96 
"Firming" the Soil over 

Seeds - 96 

How, When and Where to 

Sow 103 

Indiscriminate Sowing ... 103 
Quantity to Sow an Acre . Ill 
Quantity for a Given IS um- 
ber of Plants 113 

Soaking of 95 

Soil for" Sowing 107 

Sown in Dry Weather ... 94 

Xesting 89 

Vitality of. Duration of . - 92 
W>ongly Blaming the 

Seedsmen 104 

Situation of Garden 24 



SMALL FBUIT3. 

Blackberries 384 

Culture of 325 

Kittatinny 336 

Lawton 336 

Wilson's Early 336 

Currants 339 

Black 339 

Cherry 339 

Fav-. 339 

Red Dutch 339 

White Dutch 339 

Gooseberries 339 

Downing 340 

Houghton 340 

Grapes 340 

Age of Vines 340 

Planting 343 

Brighton 343 

Champion 343 

Concord 344 

Martha 343 

Mooi-e's Early 343 

Niagara 343 

Salem 343 

Wilder 343 

Raspberries 836 

Covering in Winter 336 

Brinkle's Orange 337 

Caroline 337 

Cuthbert 337 

Gregg (Black-cap) 337 

Hansen 337 

Hudson River Antwerp.. - 337 

Strawberries, Forcing 81 

Forcing, Kinds for 83 

Layering in Pots 327 

Open Culture 325 

Strawberries, Varieties of 328 

Bidwell 332 

Crescent 333 

Crimson Cluster 329 

Downing 332 

Henderson 328 

Hoffman 332 

Jersey Queen 333 

Jewell 333 

Parry 333 

Sharpless 333 

Wilson 333 

Soil, Pi'eparation of 31 

Resting the 110 

Selection of 25 

"Sports" 273 

Southern States, "When to Sow 

andPlantin ..311 

Asparagus 311 

Beans 311 



372 



GARDENING FOR PROFIT. 



Beets -- 312 

Cabbaoje-- 312 

Cauliliower 312 

Celery - — 312 

CoUards -... 313 

Corn-- 313 

Cucumbers 313 

Egg Plant .--. --- 313 

Greens, German 314 

Lettuce 314 

Melon, Musk and Water. . 313 

Okra or Gumbo 314 

Onion 314 

Peas -- 314 

Potato, White 314 

Potato, Sweet --- 314 

Radish ..-- 314 

Rhubarb 315 

Turnips 315 

Spinach - - - 815 

Sciuasli 315 

Tomato...- 315 

Transplanting . - 114 

Variation in rlants 273 

Vegetables, 1 1 ardy 107 

Vegetables, Tender 107 

Vegetable Plants, How to Plant 115 
Vegetable Plants, How Much 

Cold Will They Endure .-.. 116 
Varieties of Vegetables— Too 
many -- 117 

VEGETABLES, VARIETIES OF : 

Ai'tiehoke 129 

Chard 128 

Common Green 129 

Green Globe 129 

Artichoke, Jerusalem 130 

Varieties 130 

Asparagus - 118 

At the South 124 

Beetle 127 

Bunchcr 126 

Fertilizers for 125 

Gathering the Crop 126 

Planting": 119 

Profits of 127 

Propagation 118 

Salt for- - 125 

Van Siclen's ^lethod 120 

Without Transplanting--. 122 

Asparagus, Varieties of - 120 

Colossal 120 

Giant - 128 

Palmetto 124 

Balm .- 131 

Basil.-.. 131 

Bush 131 

Sweet • 131 



Beans, Bush, Kidney and Pole 131 

Beans, D\vari Varieties 133 

Earliest Ked \ alentine ..- 133 

Early Red Valentine 134 

Early .Mohawk . . . - 134 

Gallega 134 

Large Refugee 134 

Long Yellow Six-Weeks.. 134 

Refugee - 134 

Thousand to One 134 

White Marrowfat 134 

Beans, Running or Pole 135 

Lima, Diecr's Imi)roved.- 136 
Jersey Extra Eaily... 136 

Lavixe White 136 

Giant ^Vax 137 

German Wax 137 

Horticultural 137 

Scarlet Runner 136 

Speckled Cranberry 137 

Beans. Wax, Black 134 

Flageolet 135 

Golden 135 

Beet ViS 

Bastian's Blood Tuniip--- 141 
Dewing's Improved Blood 

Tuniip -. 141 

Early Blood Turnip 141 

Eclipse 140 

Egyptian Tumi]) - - 140 

Long Smooth blood 141 

Swiss Chard 141 

Borecole, or Kale - 142 

Dwarf (i erman Greens 142 

Dwarf Green Curled 

Scotch 143 

Purple 143 

Siberian Dwarf Curled ... 142 

S|)routs 142 

Very Early Dwarf 143 

Broccoli 144 

Early Walcheren 145 

Purple Cape 145 

White Cajie 145 

Brussels S])routs - 145 

Cabbage and Cauliflower 146 

Aphis - - - 155 

Black Flea 155 

Butterfly 155 

Caterpillar - 155 

Club-rootin 157 

Green Fly on 155 

Insects - 155 

In Southern States 151 

" Jumi)ing Jack ".: 155 

Keeping in Winter 154 

Kinds for Early Crop 148 

Late, Culture of 152 

Louse 155 



INDEX. 



373 



Cabba,£?e, Maggot. - - - - - - - - -_ 

Plants, What Cold They 
will Endure -- |;i^ 



156 ! Celery 



161 
155 
147 



Seed - 

Sluac ---- 

Soil and Manures f* 

Wire Worm - - ^^^ 

Cabbao-es, Early {"^ 

Early Flat Dutch- -^------ 1^ 

Early Jersey Wakebeld-.- 16^ 

Early Winningstadt . -loo 

Henderson's Early bum- 

• mer 

Premier - 

Cabbages, Late ----- 

American Drumhead 



1(54 
165 



Storing in Trenches- - - 180 

In Cellars ^fi 

CeleiT, Varieties of l»J 

Boston Market ^88 

Giant White Solid . - - - - li^« 
Henderson's Golden 

Dwari---- ---V" iS 

Henderson's Half-Dwarf - 187 

Henderson's Kose {^ 

Major Clark's Pink 1^ 

Saudringham - \^ 

Turnip-rooted |^ 

White Plume \^ 

Celeriac ' ^^ 



Sa- 



voy - - 

Felder Kraut ----■ 

Fottler's Improved Bruns 



166 
166 



Dwarf Apple-shaped IW 

Chervil, Tm-uip-rooted a^^ 

Chives :---V"' iq5 

Collards { Southern) - - - - ^^-J 

Corn Salad --- i-^k 

tier s impiuvc. ^^ i Corn, S^veet ^^ 

MamWth RockR,ed 167 Ki^leCrop'of ::-::"-:'- 196 
Marblehead Mammoth --- IJ^^ ^^^^^ Sweet, Varieties of 197 

letcKatV-FlaVDuteh: 105 I Cory 



wicl 



Turnip-rooted '^^£ 

Cardoon -j^-q 

Cai-rot - -J -2 

Danvers -----. ,,-, 

Eariy French Forcing . - - - 1« i 
Early Half-long Scariet 

Carentan V "i ;i 

Eariv Half-long Scariet 

( Pointed Rooted) - -^ ' '^ 

Hair-long Red (Stump ^^^ 

Rootod) --;-.- 170 

Large White Belgian ----- j^g 
Long Orange, Improved-- 1^^ 

Yellow Belgian J^'^ 

Caulillower ---------- - --a; .;" : , an 

Extra Eariy Dwarf Eifurt iby 

Extra Early Pans - l^^ 

Half Eariy Pans - - - ^^^ 

Henderson's Early Snow- 
ball ; 

Large Late Al-iers - - - - - - 

Le Normand's Short- 
stemmed.- :J"q 

Nonpareil--- "^^ 

Celery -, 1 70 

Close Planting ---------- {70 

Dwarf Kinds Preferred--- 1^9 

Earthing up - - - iiJi 

"Handling" -- tiS 

Planting Out i*" 

Profits of J^Q 

Ruston.--- -- .4^ 

Shipping of \Zl 

Sowing the Seed - - - - \'f 

Storing for Winter 180 



197 

Crosby's Early Sugar 197 

Early Marblehead J^l, 

Early Minnesota |»' 

Egyptian |^^ 

Henderson--- t^^ 

Mammoth Sugar - - !»» 

2 Squantum Sugar -- a J' 

Stowell's Evergreen 1^» 



167 
169 

169 



Stow 
Cress 

Upland -- \IT. 

Water-- t^ 

Profits of ].^ 

Cucumbers t^^ 

How to Plant- ---- j^-^^ 

The Pickle Crop --- ^^\ 

Cucumbers, Varieties of ^^ 

Burr - o/v? 

Early Cluster -- ^^ 

Early Russian-- ^^^ 

Green Prolific------^ - '^'* 

Improved White Sp;ne - - 
Nichols' Medium Green - 

Esg Plant 

""Black Pekin ^^ 

Long Purple - ^^ 

New York Improved ^ 

White-fruited f^ 

^^^Bimaileaved'Batavian ■-:: 208 

Green Curled ^' 

Moss Curled- - fVj^ 

|;etticus - -_- 2()8 

Garlic ---;. ■■" onq 

Gherkin, West India f^f^ 

Greens, Dwarf German 



193 
194 



201 
202 
203 
206 



142 



374 



GARDEXIXG FOR PROFIT. 



Gumbo 241 

Horseradish 208 

The Sets 209 

Planting 209 

Profits of - 212 

In:lian Cress 240 

Jerusalem Artichoke 130 

Kale or Borecole .142, 291 

Kohlrabi 212 

Early White Vienna 213 

Early Purple Vienna 213 

Leek 213 

London Flag 214 

Musselburgh 214 

Lettuce 214 

Foi'cing in Hot-beds 55 

New York "Salad 

Patches" 216 

Profits of 217 

All the Year Round 222 

Lettuce, Vtu-ieties ol 219 

Black-seeded Simpson 220 

Black-seeded Tennis Ball. 220 

Boston Market.. 221 

Early Curled Sinips(jn 219 

Large White Sunmier Cab- 
bage 221 

Ne%v York 221 

Paris White Cos 222 

Salamander 221 

AVhite-seeded Tennis Ball 221 

Yellow-seeded Butter 221 

Marjoram 308 

Marjoram, Sweet. 2:i3 

Martynia 2^34 

Melon, Musk 223 

Culture of 224 

Profit of 224 

Soil for 225 

Insects Injurious to 226 

Melon, Musk, Varieties of 227 

Baltimore 228 

Early Hack en sack 227 

Golden Netted Gem 228 

(xreen Citron 230 

Hackensack 228 

Montreal Market 229 

Melon,' Water 230 

Profits of 2^:30 

Melon, Water, Varieties of ... 231 

Black Spanish 232 

Citron 233 

Gypsy 231 

Ice Cream 231 

Icing .- 232 

Ice Rind 232 

Kolb's Gem 231 

Mammoth Iron-clad 231 

Mountain Sweet 231 



Melon, Water, Rattlesnake... 231 

Phinnev's Eaily 231 

Scaly Bark-. 232 

Mint 233 

Mushroom 234 

Making the Bed- 336 

Making the Spawn 239 

Preparing Manure for 236 

Spawning the Bed 236 

Mustard 234 

Black 234 

Wliite 234 

Nasturtium 240 

Dwarf ^10 

TaU 240 

New Zealand Spinach 290 

Okra - ^1 

Unions- 241 

Harvesting 249 

Insects Injurious to - 249 

Farm Cro{), As a 243 

Profits of 250 

Manures for 245 

Planting ^m 

Prei)aring the Ground 246 

Prulits of 243 

Sowimr the Seed 247 

Sowing in Fall 243 

Sets '242 

Storing the Crop 249 

Weeding the Crop 247 

Onions, Varieties of 251 

Bermuda 252 

Extra Early Flat Red 253 

Giant Rocca 253 

Large Red Wethersfield -. 251 
Large Red Italian Tri})oli. 254 
LargeWhite Italian Tripoli 245 

Nedpolitan Marzajola 253 

Queen 253 

Soutliport Large Yellow 

Globe : 251 

Southport Red Globe 252 

Southport White Globe .. 252 

Silver-skin 253 

Wliite Portugal 253 

Yellow Dutch 253 

Yellow Globe Danvers 251 

Onions, Potato 254 

Onions, Top 254 

Orach- 291 

Oyster Plant 282 

Parsley, in AVinter 255 

Pai slev, Varieties of 256 

Double Curled-... 256 

Fern-leaved 256 

Hamburgh 257 

Henderson's Emerald 256 

Plain 257 



INDEX. 



375 



ParBley, Tumip-rooted 257 

Parsuip ^^^ 

Early Round.. ---- ~|g 

Hollow-crowned ^^ 

The Student-- --- Jj^ 

Pea, Varieties of f^ 

Alaska ^| 

American Wonder ^i 

Black-eved Marrowfat ^ 

Bliss' Abundance f^-i 

Bliss' Everbearin.jx -o^ 

Champion of England ^oo 

-First of All --- --- o^ 

Improved Uan'l O'Rourke 2bl 

Kentish Invicta 2"} 

McLean's Advancer ^bl 

Premium Gem 2bl 



Radish, Early Round Dark Red 276 

French Breakfast --- 27 r 

Gray Summer Turnip 2^8 

Long Black Spanish 2 < 8 

Long Scarlet Short-top.-- 27i} 

Olive-shaped 278 

Red Forcing Turnip ^i^ 



Stratagem 



2Gc 



Pride of the Market 2(54 



Telephone .- 

Yorkshire Hero - - 

White Marrowfat 

Pepper, Varieties of-. 

Bull Nose 

Cranberry 



263 
263 
264 
264 
2(U 
265 



Golden Dawn ^] 

Larue Bell . - 264 

Long Re« I Cayenne - ^ 



Mammoth 

Ruby King ;^"? 

Squash ^:\ 

Sweet Mountain - ^"^ 

Tomato-shaped . - ^bo 

Pepper Grass i";^ 

Potato - --- '^^^ 

Diseases of 

Colorado Beetle 

Tubers, Cut or Whole 

Potatoes, Varieties of 

Beautv of Hebron 

Clark's No. 1 

Early Rose 

Empire State 

Pearl of Savoy 

Perfect Peach Blow ^bJ 



Round Black Spanish 278 

White-tipped Scarlet Tur 

nip 

Yellow Summer Turnip . 

Rhubarb - 

Forcing 



265 



266 
266 
270 
267 
267 
2<.9 
267 
268 
267 



Rochester Favorite . - . 
Rural Blush--. 
St. Patrick---. 

Triumph 

Vamjuard 



277 
278 
278 
279 



269 
269 
269 
269 
267 



W hilc Elephant - 268 

Potato Onions - - ^^T 



281 
281 



308 

282 

283 

308 

283 

283 

284 

285 

283 

286 

287 

289 



Linnaeus : - 

St. Martins - 

Victoria f°\ 

RutaBaga "^l 

Sac;e 

Salsify 

Salsify, Black 

Savory, Summer 

Scorzonera, 

Sea Kale - 

Blanching 

Shallots 

Sorrel - 

Spinach 

Profits of 

Spmach, Varieties of 289 

Large Round Leaf Viroflay 290 

Long Standing . - ... - 290 

Norfolk Savoy-leaved 289 

Prickly 290 

Round Leaf- - 290 

1 Thick-leaved- 2tO 

Spinach, New Zealand .- 290 

Spinach, Substitutes for.. 290 

Sprouts ,;--.-;:-- ^^^' i'l] 

Squash, Summer \ arieties .... ^91 

Boston Marrow 293 

Bush Ciookneck 293 

Yellow and Vvliite 

BushS.-al!o::el 2C2 

Fall and Winter Vaiicties: 

Essex Hybrid - 293 

Hubbard '-93 

Mammoth Chili 294 

Marblehead .- - 294 

Vc2:etable Marrow -.- 294 
1 Winter Crookneck . . . 294 

I Summer Savory 308 

Swedes or Swedish Tm-nips- 



307 



Pumpkin .-'A" o'-^ 

Radish as a Succession Crop.- ^o 



274 I Sweet Herbs 



308 



Sweet M arjoram 223, 308 



Forcing. 



77 Sweet Potato - 



295 



Radish, Varieties of - - - -i^ 

Beckcrfs Chnrtier - -^'O 

Chinese Rosc-cclored, 
Winter ^*^ 



Startimr the Plants 297 

Sets or Draws ^-^ 

Nansemond - ^^f, 

Red SL-inned 



. 297 



376 



GARDEXIXQ FOH PROFIT. 



Sweet Potato, Yellow Skinned. 297 

Swiss Chard (See Beet).. 141 

Thyme 308 

Tomato 298 

Earliness in 300 

Profits of 299 

Saving Seeds of 300 

Tomato, Varieties of 301 

Acme 301 

Canada Victor 303 

General Grant 303 

Hathaway's Excelsior 303 

Mikado 301 

Paragon 301 

Perfection 303 

Plum, Red o.nd YeUow ... 303 



Tomato, Trophy 3a3 

Top Onions 254 

Turnip. Varieties of 304 

Amber Globe £06 

Extra Early Milan 306 

Golden Ball 306 

Purple-top Strap-leaf S06 

Pur]3le-top White Globe. . 306 

Red-top Strap-leaf 306 

Seven-top 307 

SnowbaU 306 

Snow-white 307 

Turnip, Ruta Baga Kinds 307 

Improved American 307 

Large White French 308 

Shamrock 308 



Alphabetical Catalogue 



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Orange Judd Company, 

^ * h \_^_vfa PUBLISHERS AND IMPORTERS OFe^^sr-Vs 

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Agriculture^ Horticulture^ Eta 

FAK.n AND OAKl>ErV. 

Allen, R. L. and L. Fr New Americnn Farm Book $ 2.50 

A B C of Agriculture. A very Practical Manual. 12mo, cloth... .50 

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Broom-Corn and Brooms ••• -^ 



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Farm Appliances ^00 

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Farming for Eoys i^ 

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On Fertilizers 40 

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On SqiKk^lK's 30 

Harris. Joseph. GaKk-nin- for Young ami Old ].'25 

Talivs on Manure-^. New and Revised Edition. .. 1.7.) 

Henderson, Peter. (jHrdinini: for Pleasure. Ni'w,i-iilaigedi'diii«)ii. 2.00 

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Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening. Vols. I., n. iiL 

IV. Each 5.00 

Johnson, M. W. How to Pl.mt. Pap.r ',0 

Johnson, Prof. S. W. How C. ops Feed 2.0U 

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Jones, B. W. Tlie Peanut Plant. Paper 50 

Lawn Planting. Paper a^ 

Leiand. F.mn Homes, In-Doors. and Out-Doors. New Edition 1.50 

Long, Elias A. Orn.imental Gardening for Americans 2.00 

Morton. F:nMu r*s CaleW .r 5.00 

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Our Farm of Four Acres. Pipr . ... .30 

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Plant Life on the Farm i oo 

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Riley. Pot.ito Pests. Paper 50 

Robinson. Facts for Farmers — 5.00 

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Tim Bunker Papers; or, Yankee Farming i.50 

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Waring. Elements of Agriculture .' i.oo 

Farmers' Vacation 

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Rural Essays 

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Fern Book for Everybody ^ 

Fuller, A. S. Gmp./ Cnlmrist 1.50 

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Small Fruit Culturist. New Ediiion .. . 1.50 

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Heinrichn window Flower Garden ir^ 

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HoopeS. Book of Everjreeiis 

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Johnson, winter Gieeiiei irs at Home , l.CO 

Meech, Rev. W. W. Quince Culture... l.oc 

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Wood, Samuel ^ Modern window Gardening 1.25 



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Hill, J. W. Management and Discaf-es of the Dog, 12mo ,. 2.00 

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Mayhew, E. Dogs ; Their Management. lOmo 75 

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Prac'ical Kennel Guide. Paper 50 

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